Adding CCS to pre-FL Citigo

[stavkon]

Aha....that explains a lot of things...

Also beware that the wires from cum-cartech, also use vag type pins (at least the ones I received), so they can't be installed either, unless the connector is split in half....

[P3P5I]

We learn something new everyday But this time it was a very valuable lesson.

[stavkon]

That's very true  

 

 btw I managed to get maxidot cluster from VW, retrofitted ...it is gorgeous

 

 

[vov273]

On 29/05/2020 at 15:28, P3P5I said:

As mentioned earlier, here it is a write up on how-to add CCS to your Citigo.

 

Before you start your retrofit, You need to establish if you want to also add a stalk for your vehicle mutlifunction display. Its only 4 additional wires running indepentedly from Your replacement wiper/multifunction stalk to Your instrument cluster. If You will decide to add a full multifunction steering wheel buttons - you dont need those extra wires as it will be covered by the controls on the steeringf wheel. As mentioned in one of the previous post it will display additional information on your Speedometer such as current speed/average speed/current fuel consupmption/average consumption etc.

 

At this point it would be handy, to double check if Your Speedometer is supporrting additional information to be displayed. In order to do so, You will need a VCDS. You can check it simply by going to Your Instrument Panel and running your display test. It is not required to upgrade to maxi-dot display (white-on-black). You should get something similar after running the display test.

 

Once You established what You want to achieve from Your installation below You will find major steps which needs to be performed in order to achieve fully operational CCS/MFA.

 

Once Your kit arrived, You need to start from removing Your airbag and steering wheel. There is plenty of Youtube tutorials on howo to remove the airbag, so I will post only brief description.

 

Once the airbag had been removed, you should be looking at something similar to this:

 

Undo the main steering wheel bolt and steering wheel will come off quite easily. Remember to mark the position of Your steering wheel so You can fit it exactly in the same position as before.

When You have steering wheel of, You will be looking at this.

 

Steering column trim cover is only held by one screw underneath on the bottom of the trim. Once the screw is out there is no other bolts. Gently remove part 1 on the below image. You will need some sort of wedge tool to detach the top trim (part 2). and the part 3 should come off.

 

Undo all the plugs attached to the steering column. Gently remove the slip ring and remember the connector needs to be on the 12o'clock position when reinstalling. Stalks are being held by one locator screw. circled on the image below. If You dont remove this screw and You will try to remove stalks you will most likely brake something lol

As mentioned at the beginning, there is a possibilty to attach only CCS/Indicator stalk by undoing to little screws holding the stalks to the centre part. However I will focus on a full swap as it is what i did on mine.

Connecting MFA is a straight forward as mentioned earlier the wiring loom consist of 4 wires and it is a separate connection between right stalk (T10 Connector) and Speedometer (T32 Connector).
Pins are numbered on the plug but just in case I have arrowed pin 1. This information is only applicable for vehicles manufactured after 11/2013. For older use T41, grey'ish L shape connector.

 

Now You have to remove Your speedometer. Once the steering wheel is of, Your IC is only held by 2 screws. Undo those screws and pull out the clocks and undo the T32 connector from the back of the cluster.

 

Again, pins are numbered, so You shouldnt have any issues locating the right ones.

 

Last thing to do here, is to attach the actual CCS wires to large connector on the left hand side of the steering column. Connector is referenced as T16d. Please note: that the connector pictured below is applicable ONLY for vehicles made after 11/2013. Vehicles manufactured before that date will have grey'ish L shape connector T41.

Just tie up the wiring and top end is pretty much done.

Now, not so easy part begins. Getting access to Your BCM. You need to make sure that Your vehicle is equipeed with BCM that will support CCS installation. There is plenty of information on this subject so I will ommit that here.

Remove Your A-pilar trim (simple, right?)

 

loosen 2 screws holding your fuse box, pull the OBD connector out. Undo Your throttle pedal (You will need 10mm socket to do that), unplug the connector for the throttle pedal. Yes, You have to do that, in order to create more working space for Yourself.

 

Once You've done that, there is one more trim panel you have to slacken.

 

This will create enough working space, at least it was just about enough for me.

 

Release 2 plugs from the back of the BCM and pull the BCM out of its holder on the back of the relay rack.

 

The best way and the only way to remove the bcm is to push it up and forward and it should fall down sometimes a bit of force maybe be required to pull the BCM completely.

 

once the bcm is removed, feed the bcm connectors to the top left corner of the relay carrier. Just do ONE plug at the time. The result should be as per picture below

This image shows BCM plug with its cover removed. I will try to provide You with a brief tutorial how to dismantle this plug bit later. Taking into consideration a limited amount of working space available, this was one of the issues I had when adding MFSW as well as CCS.

 

Before You will start tidying up everyhting, You need to feed CCS wire, which will run from BCM to the ECU. In the manual provided with the kit as well as on VW Up! forum, there was something mentioned about running it paralely to vehicle bonnet release cable (I have no clue how that was achieved) and another rumor is that by removing N/S wheel arch liner You could get access to the cable and to the battery tray - very interesting but on Citigo at least on my one it was not the case.

So, remove the wiper arms, make sure to mark their alingment on the windscreen. You will need a 13mm socket. Take the arms of (You dont need a arm puller to do that). Remove both plastic infill panels. Be very carefull as You take them out so You will not brake the clips in the corner. Those clips are located on the plastics itself where wheel arch panel meets with windscreen.

 

Remove the OE insulation tape from the grommet. Not all of, just to gain access to the grommet. Use some sort of fairly stiff but yet flexible piece of wire. I've used a metal wire coat hanger. Make sure to secure the end of it with some insulation tape. apply a bit of vaseline or washing liquid and keep pushing the wire into the rubber groomet. YOU NEED TO BE VERY CAREFULL AS YOU ARE PUSHING THIS COAT HANGER AGAINST YOUR MAIN WIRING LOOM AND YOU DONT WANT TO DAMAGE ANY WIRES ALREADY RUNNING THERE. Its good to have somebody to help You out on this step. with a bit of fiddling and right aiming the wire should come inside the cabin just on the top left corner of Your relay carrier.

 

Attach the intended for ECU wire to the other end and pull it inside the engine compartment. Again, join them wisely and carefully feed it back to the engine compartment. Make sure to secure the grommet back again with the insulation tape. ****, Ive runned out of black tape...

 

Run the BCM-ECU alongside the main wiring loom and secure it accordinly

Use the same techique as with the bulkhead grommet to insert the BCM-ECU wire

 

If You think, that You went trough hell, You are wrong. This is the worst part of the challenge so far. You need to remove battery and the battery tray in order to get access to the ECU unit. The green arrows on the image indicate 2 horrible sheer bolts which HAVE to be removed. You will find Yourself lucky if Your vehicle had any work done to theh gearbox or clutch as there is a possibility, that these bolts were replaced with something decent. If not - a lot of grinding and chiselling will be required.

 

Once You managed to get access to the ECU unit. undo the ECU plug nearest to the wheel.

Remove the purple insert inside the connector. It is a sort of pin locking/securing mechanism. There will be quite few vaccant pins with black blanking pin. Simply remove the desired blanking plug and insert the BCM-ECU wire. At this point it will be so much easier to dissasemble the plug, to clearly see the numbers on the pins. Dont ask me how I've managed to do so, I was in DIY frenzy, on the limits of my patience, and sadly I have damaged the plug but I did opened it.

On the connector, look for the pin number 25 and count from there.

put everything back together, couple of Hail Mary's and uncertainity if You have connected everything correctly. Bit of coding in VCDS and You are all set up.

I hope, You will find this guide helpfull.

 

NOTE: The wiring for this kit is covered in the instruction provided with it. so I will not cover it here. Also, there are 2 different kits out there. One is recommending connection of one wire directly to fuse no.5 where the other one comes with lovely splice wire for connection directly to Your BCM. Always, before You purchase Your kit, plaese provide Your VIN number to the kit manufacturer so he can supply You with the right stalks.

Its a whole day challenge. it took me around 5-6hours to have it fitted, thats excluding numerous energy drinks breaks, consultations and un-productive and unrelated to the subject chit-chats with neigbours.

 

On 05/04/2021 at 18:32, P3P5I said:

 

Thank you for precision instructions

I have already install cruise control on my lefthanded Citigo 2013 with "wibutec" kit(150€) and used 087 BCM module from VW UP(because mine was 086D) for 36€ from Allegro.pl

 

But now have a problem with remote lockind and opening. It's working only  with key in door lock.

 

Did you coded remote key after updating BCM? 

Thank you

 

[P3P5I]

On 06/08/2023 at 15:38, vov273 said:

Did you coded remote key after updating BCM? 

Thank you

 

Hi, I'm glad that the write up have helped you with your retrofit.

 

When I was replacing bcm's I have copied all the setting from old bcm to the new one. If I remember correctly, I didn't have to do anything else.

 

Try re-pairing remotes with the car. Easy procedure which can be done using any decent OBD app/software.