Octavia vRS Diesel oil consumption

[dajungle]

Hi Everyone,

 

I have a 2015 Skoda Octavia vRS Diesel which still hasn't reached 50k miles. In the last 6 months there is an increasing oil consumption sometimes close to 500ml per 350 miles or 1 liter every 700-800 miles. I've made a compression test and there are 2 cylinders at 300 psi and the other two at 290 which seems rather low to me especially for such a low mileage. Did anyone have similar issues with this engine?

[JamiePvrs]

My first vrs diesel used a lot of oil, about a 1l every 1200 miles. My latest one does not use any where near the same amount, probably 1L every 5k. Same driver, same driving style but my new one is a DSG.

 

I mentioned it to skoda when I first had high consumption and they said it was normal for this engine to use so much oil!! 

[Dillaz_k]

Learned to live with it mines a 2014 cupa vrs what engine code is yours? I put a litre every 1000-1200 miles. Can't figure out why this is everyone with cupa engines complain about oil consumption. If you figure it out let us know.

[Towelie]

I had a 2013 golf mk7 GTD and currently a 2016 vrs and neither drink oil

[Ootohere]

Whoever at Skoda or a dealership told @JamiePvrs  lied about 1 litre in 1,200 miles being OK after a cars first 5,000km.

Just because every owners manual says may use 0.5litre in 1,000 km (621 miles) that is not acceptable as Skoda / VW knows.

 

@Dillaz_k

If your Ibiza Cupra was a 1.4TSI 132kW Twincharger there is no mystery why one of those might use far too much oil.

If it was a Leon Cupra then there would be reason to question why.

[Dillaz_k]

@Roottoot my car is not a cupra i wrote cupa vrs cupa is the engine code you can get cupa and cuna engines in the gtd and vrs same engine. 

 

@Towelie i think gtd are cuna engines and also the later models vrs are cuna find out your engine code.

[Ootohere]

^^^ Sorry, going to Specsavers was my other bad.

[MeteorOcty]

My 2014 diesel dsg vrs is on 74k, no top ups are required between annual services (around 8k)

[nidza]

@dajungle, try different brand supplier of oil. Maybe it will lower oil consumption, and could bring it to the level acceptable for you.

 

We had excessive oil consumption in our company TDI O3, but later on drivers switched to something else, I don't know what, from Castrol which it consumed a lot.

[Dillaz_k]

@nidza what you recommend? I have been using castrol, they all going to be same thickness  they 5w 30 how would brand make a diffrence?

[nidza]

Just checked with the drivers, they've switched to Mobil1, same thickness, 5w-30.

 

They said it made the difference, not my car, don't shoot the messenger. Will not hurt that you try.

 

Just to be frank completely, greater oil consumption of certain brand or viscosity, is not related to better or worst lubrication and engine protection. What is a fact, both these oils fairly well protected our company cars, as majority of them are passing 400.000km before selling them. 

[Dillaz_k]

Ill try mobil 1 next service soon see how that goes ill post back of how it goes thanks @nidza

[Ecomatt]

I always use quantum in my Skodas and never had an issue with oil consumption.

[Dillaz_k]

Why would car use alot of oil using castrol and other brands are fine @Ecomatt using quantum and @nidza using mobil 1 im sure castrol is supposed to be best oil out there? And all will be same thickness 5w30. Don't see any logic sense in how brands can be any different.

[JamiePvrs]

On 27/07/2020 at 09:33, Roottoot said:

Whoever at Skoda or a dealership told @JamiePvrs  lied about 1 litre in 1,200 miles being OK after a cars first 5,000km.

Just because every owners manual says may use 0.5litre in 1,000 km (621 miles) that is not acceptable as Skoda / VW knows.

 

@Dillaz_k

If your Ibiza Cupra was a 1.4TSI 132kW Twincharger there is no mystery why one of those might use far too much oil.

If it was a Leon Cupra then there would be reason to question why.

My first vrs used lots of oil, the second one barely used any at all. @Roottoot how dare you accuse a dealer of lying hahahahahahaha both were brilliant cars but the later facelift model was far better in every way. The dsg suited it really and the engine did seem to be a bit stronger, maybe the first car was just a bit of a lemon? 

 

I've got rid of the skoda now and gone to a BMW 530e so not drinking from the black pump anymore!

[Dillaz_k]

I have read high oil consumption could be due to a faulty pcv valve stuck open/close.

I am having symptoms of stuck open pcv along with high oil consumption.

Symptoms i am having rough engine idle, hard to start and high oil consumption.

If my car 2014 Skoda Octavia vrs 2.0tdi has a pcv wonder if this is cause (read online some newer cars don't have pcv) 

 

Symptoms of a Stuck Closed PCV Valve or System

• Increase in internal engine pressure
• Failure of one or more oil seals or gaskets
• Engine oil leaks
• Low whistling or moaning noise
• Moisture and sludge buildup inside the engine
• Engine surges
• MAF sensor trouble code
• P0171 or P0174 trouble codes
• 02 sensor trouble codes

If the PCV valve gets stuck open, or a system hose gets disconnected or ruptured—producing a vacuum leak—you'll notice one or more of these symptoms.

Symptoms of a Stuck Open PCV Valve

• Engine misfires at idle
• Lean air-fuel mixture
• Presence of engine oil in PCV valve or hose
• Increased oil consumption
• Hard engine start
• Rough engine idle
• Possibly black smoke
• Oil fouled spark plugs

[varaderoguy]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but here goes.

 

My CUNA engines VRS184 TDI has started producing a LOT of sludge. The car has previously had minimum maintenance (although it was every 18k miles) and known oil type (although it should have been Longlife 3FE 0W30 VW507 oil).

 

I'm now running it on Super Diesel and it has recently had an oil and filter change. After less than 500 miles, the oil is BLACK and looks chunky and smells BAD.

 

I suspect this is the result of the minimum maintenance and that all I am seeing is sludge from the valves and the EGR being processed out of the engine. It's also running lumpy and rich too. Here is a recent scan from ELM scanner from VAGDPF when the car is on idle.Vag_DPF_log.txt

[Ootohere]

My 66 plate 2.0TDI SCR / DSG SEAT Alhambra leased from Motability never got it's first oil & filter change til 20,000 miles because the dealer could not get it in sooner.

Just as well it was using oil as it was like clotted cream even though it was topped up with a good few litres in the year.

It was lumpy and very black oil before the Oil & Filter change. 

 

It stopped using oil from then on and stayed just like it should until the next service & after.

 

 

Edited 31 May, 2021 by e-Roottoot

[fr1nklyn]

Is there place where you can do some italian tune up? If yes, I would do the following:

1. Add a bottle of Archoil 6400-D and top up till the tank is full

2. Drive on higher revs, lower gear for 30min - 2000-2500 at least

3. Then don’t refill until the tank is 1/4

4. Do the next oil change as soon as possible - e.g. 2-3k miles.

5. Do a 15 min flush(idling!) before changing the oil. Use something high detergent and harmless for the seals, they all say so, but I would go with Lubegard’s or Amsoil’s flush. I’ve tried the first and it’s great.

6. Forget about the **** oil sold by the dealer, Shell, Castrol, etc.. Add some good high synthetic oil - Ravenol VMP is a great 507.00 oil. Amsoil European Series 5w30 as well, Redline 5w30 507.00 which is a bit expensive but very good too.. I only heard that Millers have good oils, but I haven’t tried any because it’s pretty hard to find it outside UK.

I think Opie Oil have filter by PAO and Ester based oils, do search for one of these which meets VW 507.00 and find a reputable place where you can buy it( you don’t have to buy from them).

7. Them try to change the oil no more than 10-12k/year whatever comes first.

I guarantee for the Archoil 6400 and Ravenol VMP, these two are really good.

 

I hope that you’ll forget about this soon! Good Luck 

[KenONeill]

10 hours ago, fr1nklyn said:

Add a bottle of Archoil 6400-D

I just read this as "add a bottle of expensive snake oil..." Anything that is delivered through the fuel system will stop working as soon as it gets out of the injectors.

[Ootohere]

Flush the engine oil by taking the vehicle out and get the engine oil indicated temp up to about 100*oC then get the pump and remove the oil, change the filter, remove and change the sump plug and see what comes out if anything, then refill with oil, take it for a run and get the oil up to operating temp, stop and check the oil level and see if it needs any topping up to be at Area A on the dipstick at normal operating temp.

[varaderoguy]

Yes - that's what is going to happen here utilimately.  I'm really keen to do it here at home, but the VRS has lower profile and its not going to be able to drive up the ramps that I have.

It all comes down to getting access to a set of ramps.  The timing is going to be check next month and I'll get the dealer to do an intermediate oil/filter change whilst its there.

 

I would rather not go down the line of flushing oil as a good number of folk on VW forums state that VAG don't really approve of this kind of thing.  I think regular oil/filter changes with decent OEM oil and filter will get the worst of the crud out.

Edited 1 June, 2021 by varaderoguy

[cheezemonkhai]

I think the flushing oil thing depends on a number of factors, including if the car is PD, how long you leave it in and how dirty the oil is.

 

Helping clean a car up that had been “ serviced” every year but the oil filter date was years old and the oil like treacle I did a few things.

 

1) Immediate change of all filters and oil change.

2) Early second oil and filter after about 5000 miles.

3) Normal oil and filter change at correct interval.

 

By that time the oil was only as dirty as you’d expect on the change.

 

At the next change I warmed up the car a bit, added a can of flushing additive to the old oil, then    gently drove the car around the block. Upon draining the oil was filthy, so I put in the cheapest oil of the right spec and a new filter and drove the car for a week then did it again with good oil.

 

It was a huge effort, but since then the oil has stayed thinner/cleaner a lot longer after each oil change and come out in good condition.

I’ve not put a flush in since and nor would I add anything to the oil that claims to improve it. However what I can say s a suitable flushing oil used sensibly and only occasionally if required isn’t a bad thing.

 

In your case I’d do (as you suggest) a couple of short oil changes first, but if all else fails it might be worth considering a one off.

edit:

 

I didn’t realise it was four months old when I replied. Oops. Did you sort it out?

 

 

Edited 3 October, 2021 by cheezemonkhai

[varaderoguy]

2 hours ago, cheezemonkhai said:

 

I didn’t realise it was four months old when I replied. Oops. Did you sort it out?

Yes....I sold the car! ROFL!!!

Seriously though, yes the sludge issues went away. I think that with the EGR and DPF cleaner in the fuel and with regular oil changes, I was experiencing sludge removal on an epic scale. That's what happens when you go from a minimum servicing to being anal with the next owner. This was on a CUNA engine.