5 hours ago, mustafa9967 said:

Thanks. 

Thanks. This piece has loosened and broken its structure. Can anyone help with the part code of this o-ring?

 

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/RAP/740/1/145/145040

 

As above great guide! Thank-you diagnosed and fixed! Thanx. I used ring spanner on small screwdriver with grommet thereon to locate and not drop it! ... spanner aided pushing of grommet! 

 

Thx for sharing AMAZING. Ordered and changed mine...

On 01/09/2020 at 22:37, Mintyfresh said:

OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back.

 

 

The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay.

 

The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area.

 

The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear.

 

To fit:

you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess.

 

Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe.

 

The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe.

 

Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards.

 

 

 

Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force.

 

 

Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo).

 

 

You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up.

 

Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it.

 

 

The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out.

 

 

As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum!

 

Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later.

 

The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard.  

 

Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from.

 

 

Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay.

 

Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. 

 

 

Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together.

 

Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click).

Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe.

Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness).

Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing.

 

That's the job done.

 

Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything.

 

 

From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

 

 

 

Just to say thank you - the reason I joined the forum - to find out how to do this !! perfect. 

 

Great guide and great photos @Mintyfresh😉

 

I did this today. My observations;

 

1. As you said, it really is quite difficult to get the pipe off the throttle valve. Those clips don't stay off once you release them as they don't clear away from the pipe when released. The only way I could get the pipe off was by wiggling it from side to side whilst pulling upwards.

 

2. The rubber grommet was very difficult to remove. Mine was very soft and squishy, so that when levered with a screwdriver on each side there was no resistance from the grommet because of the soft material. I even tried a car upholstery removal tool but the slot in it was slightly too big and the grommet  just gave way as I levered it. Eventually I got it out by levering and pulling at the same time. To my great annoyance, there was nothing left in the hole; I could have checked it with a small mirror and not spent 15mins trying to remove it.

 

The valve I bought was a Febi Bilstein 175530. which I got from Parts In Motion for £17.78 (inc delivery), which was cheaper than any ebay seller for that brand.

This is a photo of the grommet. When trying to remove it, it's worth bearing in mind your attempting to get that lip at the bottom through a hole in the engine that is smaller than the diameter of the grommet, so you really have to give it a good tug.

 

Im stuck tying to remove the pressure pipe. I've watched 2 videos and both times the pipe easily slides off with a couple tugs but mine seems to be glued on. I'm sure I'm doing everything right but is there something I'm missing? Note. I am definitely moving the clips out of the way whilst pulling but it's still not moving. Could I use some sort of lubricant to help?

On 27/03/2025 at 18:23, Kai11 said:

Im stuck tying to remove the pressure pipe. I've watched 2 videos and both times the pipe easily slides off with a couple tugs but mine seems to be glued on. I'm sure I'm doing everything right but is there something I'm missing? Note. I am definitely moving the clips out of the way whilst pulling but it's still not moving. Could I use some sort of lubricant to help?

From memory it does require some force, but it should come off eventually. Not sure what you would lubricate to get it off though either. Did you try wriggling it around, maybe knocking it gently from below too?

On 01/09/2020 at 22:37, Mintyfresh said:

 

 

 

I have oil weeping out at this end of the pressure pipe, in addition to the fume smell in the cabin.
Does anyone know if this pressure pipe has an O ring or gasket inside of it that possibly needs replaced on mine? And what that part number is?

Yes there's an o-ring there.

I can find the part number for you if you can confirm your engine code and year of manufacture (or simply reg or VIN).

The oil coming from the turbo suggests that the breather system is not working well, so once you've fixed the broken entry valve that is the subject of this guide (have you checked it?), feel for suction down the pipe that goes onto it with engine idling at operating temperature.

18 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Yes there's an o-ring there.

I can find the part number for you if you can confirm your engine code and year of manufacture (or simply reg or VIN).

The oil coming from the turbo suggests that the breather system is not working well, so once you've fixed the broken entry valve that is the subject of this guide (have you checked it?), feel for suction down the pipe that goes onto it with engine idling at operating temperature.

Oh that would be fantastic if you could , thank you. My reg is gxz 4160. It's a seat toledo but same engine I believe.

Yeah it seems my valve is broken so I will be following this guide to replace that. I wonder is there a possibility that oil is travelling down the pipe from the broken valve and collecting on the turbo? I guess I could confirm this by replacing the valve and cleaning everything at the same time. Then seeing if the oil reappears on the turbo

You do have a CBZB-code engine, so this thread is applicable.

O-ring at throttle body end of the boost pipe for your car is part number WHT 005 280.

There's also one at the other end, part number WHT 003 865.

I doubt the breather valve that is the topic of this thread is causing oil to come from your turbo.

I suggest if you have any further questions that aren't directly related to this valve, that you start a new thread, possibly in mk2 Fabia section as that is probably closest match to your Seat.

Hey having this problem too i'm trying to fix but here i am with the left in the engine that i can't remove because the plastic had become hard and when i'm trying to pull it off it shattered as you can see half of it is missing was my try to remove it and what's more lucky for me is the joint that is breaking too like you can half of it missing .... do you think i'm ****ed up or not ?

Access looks tight. I might try these methods (feel free to tell me why they won't work).

1. Get a tap wound into the remaining bit of grommet. The smallest tap you can get away with because once it's in, you will be attempting to pull it out. Be careful with the tap - they don't like sideways loading. Winding the tap in too far might prevent the inner lip from collapsing and coming out.

2. Try to get a couple of thin hacksaw cuts to remove a 30 or 40 degree sector. Stop cutting when you feel the blade contact metal, of course. With a chunk of the circumference removed, it might collapse enough to come out.

3. Maybe a right angled dremel chuck can give you enough to start drilling holes in the grommet all the way through. These will inevitably be small and brittle drills so, combined with the drill waste going into the engine this is my least preferred method.