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1.2TSI Crankcase Breather Hose One Way Valve Replacement Guide


Mintyfresh

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OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back.

 

 

The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay.

 

The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area.

 

The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear.

 

To fit:

you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess.

 

Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe.

IMG_20200901_171313.thumb.jpg.a790e110f0af630510312b7d613381ac.jpg

 

The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe.

 

Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards.

 

IMG_20200901_171402.thumb.jpg.0d2525bdcdaf36eb76edf4c21110afa7.jpg 

 

Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force.

 

IMG_20200901_171447.thumb.jpg.afffd5159ed169908386cf4996a81cd6.jpg

 

Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo).

 

IMG_20200901_171518.thumb.jpg.f48ef2dd2622ec16836fc35aa21f79f1.jpg

 

You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up.

 

Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it.

 

IMG_20200901_171548.thumb.jpg.989c8ecc06608e9964a5b3c96a481a1c.jpg

 

The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out.

 

IMG_20200901_171728.thumb.jpg.96fb44d24643fb628e28c452640ba676.jpg

 

As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum!

 

Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later.

 

The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard.  

 

Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from.

 

IMG_20200901_172858.thumb.jpg.c4647b35b7cb4eb56a018280e89bc5b7.jpg

 

Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay.

 

Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. 

 

IMG_20200901_172952.thumb.jpg.0052ab8efabfa03fb954368ace17dce0.jpg

 

Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together.

 

Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click).

Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe.

Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness).

Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing.

 

That's the job done.

 

Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything.

 

 

From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

 

 

 

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Further to the above;

 

here is a link to the workshop manual for removal of the pressure pipe, for anyone wishing a 'proper' holding hand for safe removal.

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/power_unit/12/63;_77_kw_tsi_engine/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/intake_manifold_and_fuel_distributor/removing_and_installing_the_throttle_valve_control_unitj338/

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Great write up, think I need to do this on mine, which I recently bought. Stinks of oil with cabin fans on! and outside car when warm.

 

I assumed it was rocker gasket, so went and bought one of those and the sealer....

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That was so helpful to see it in pictures. I had an independent fit mine as I had the tell-tale slight oil stain and the smell in the cabin. I believe mine was broken when I had a major service at a Skoda dealer and when they replaced the air filter they lifted off the top of the airbox and the pipe connecting the airbox to the pcv valve has no give in it and put leverage on the end valve and fractured the plastic.

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  • 1 month later...
On 09/11/2020 at 20:38, 8473adamd said:

Great write up, think I need to do this on mine, which I recently bought. Stinks of oil with cabin fans on! and outside car when warm.

 

I assumed it was rocker gasket, so went and bought one of those and the sealer....

 

Finally got round to doing this today.

 

Nice and easy job with the walkthrough guide, so thanks for that!

 

Mine had obviously been like it for a while as everything was covered in thick crud. 

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  • 2 months later...

Great step guide as I have just had the same problem over the weekend.

 

Unfortunately bottom part of the grommet has spilt and fallen in the crank case, but can't be fished out! Have not started/driven the car yet.

 

Absolutely ridiculous design. Weighing up options what to do.

IMG_20210315_084253195.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

I am going to replace the air filter myself so when lifting the airbox cover is does not put leverage on the PCV valve. I am surprised Skoda have not redesigned the PCV tubing to be corrugated so there is give when the airbox cover is lifted

 

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  • 4 months later...

This article helped me to confirm the issue that I have in the 2012 Octavia 1.2 TSI - seemed to be Oil leak near the "out" pipe from the intercooler (Intercooler Charge Pipe) and smell in the cabin when switched on AC / heating. Now fixed it with Engine block breather Valve and Grommet.

Supporting video in YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeExxTRZLjo

Thank you very much.

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  • 6 months later...

Thanks for this guide, just posted a topic ont the Rapid sectionas I discovered the breather hose unattached (didn't know what it was)and oil all over the place then I discovered this thread 😀 

Part ordered , think I'd better order a new grommet to be on the safe side 😅

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  • 11 months later...

On Saturday I went to inspect my air filter and noticed a small hose had come loose somewhere. After frantically searching around I found where it should go but it would not stay in. I then did a search on Briskoda to see if I was right and came across this awesome thread! Many thanks @Mintyfresh, this was a lifesaver for me. 

 

After inspecting the value I confirmed I have the same issue as @KStep where the long part of the valve has broken off somewhere (probably inside the crank). The grommet itself was fine though. I've not had issues with oil smells in the car so I first thought I broke it there and then but on removing the cover I can see oil stains around the grommet so it must have happened previously but the valve somehow was "in" at least partly. I can now smell oil inside the cabin as I drive - I'll be replacing both the valve and grommet (just for good measure) once the parts arrive from the dealer. The part numbers @Koreenium has listed were correct for me. The value is around £23(!) and the grommet a couple of quid. A quick search on eBay produces lots of much cheaper copies (around £3-5 delivered) but I like to buy OE parts. 

 

Thanks again for this guide/thread - much appreciated. 

 

Edited by DunDunFather
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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks a million for putting this information up on the web. I have owned Golf 1.2 tsi with this problem for over 5 years. I have tried everything to solve the oil spray around  the throttle body.I wasn't aware  there was even a grommet. Finally with your help I have been able to fix the oil leak issue. 👍👍👍

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On 01/09/2020 at 22:37, Mintyfresh said:

OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back.

 

 

The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay.

 

The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area.

 

The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear.

 

To fit:

you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess.

 

Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe.

IMG_20200901_171313.thumb.jpg.a790e110f0af630510312b7d613381ac.jpg

 

The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe.

 

Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards.

 

IMG_20200901_171402.thumb.jpg.0d2525bdcdaf36eb76edf4c21110afa7.jpg 

 

Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force.

 

IMG_20200901_171447.thumb.jpg.afffd5159ed169908386cf4996a81cd6.jpg

 

Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo).

 

IMG_20200901_171518.thumb.jpg.f48ef2dd2622ec16836fc35aa21f79f1.jpg

 

You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up.

 

Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it.

 

IMG_20200901_171548.thumb.jpg.989c8ecc06608e9964a5b3c96a481a1c.jpg

 

The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out.

 

IMG_20200901_171728.thumb.jpg.96fb44d24643fb628e28c452640ba676.jpg

 

As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum!

 

Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later.

 

The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard.  

 

Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from.

 

IMG_20200901_172858.thumb.jpg.c4647b35b7cb4eb56a018280e89bc5b7.jpg

 

Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay.

 

Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. 

 

IMG_20200901_172952.thumb.jpg.0052ab8efabfa03fb954368ace17dce0.jpg

 

Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together.

 

Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click).

Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe.

Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness).

Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing.

 

That's the job done.

 

Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything.

 

 

From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

 

I can’t trace my original crankcase ventilation pipe ? The rubber grommet and the valve elbow is missing as well as the rest of the pipe ? I can’t trace where it goes to from top to bottom  ?
is the whole breather valve Inc pipe ? 
to be clearer where does this pipe attach to ?, to another pipe or directly to the crankcase ? 


 

12F53FE1-E2FC-4369-B1C5-6B9FEE315D49.jpeg

A1ADAF47-B343-4931-ADCB-D2ECD977291D.jpeg

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  • 2 months later...

Hi,

 

Thanks for the guide. I rang up my local Skoda dealer who said that they didn't stock these parts (!)

Has anyone ordered any genuine/OEM items recently who can recommend a seller?

 

Thanks.

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One option for genuine new https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125978801142.

Many, many aftermarket alternatives available if you search that part number on ebay, or elsewhere, no doubt.

Dealer would be able to order in if they were being more helpful, retail price currently £22.50 + VAT.

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Great guide, so thanks. I ordered both parts including grommet from the dealer. He initially couldn't see the grommet but eventually found it. Daft design really and the worry of plastic in the crank case etc.

I think mind must have been chewed up in there at some point. Running fine though.

New oil and filter plus usual service items including plugs this time and the smell is gone.

Mine was more petrol/oil when stationary to be fair.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It is a sort of self taper type threaded screw for screwing into a plastic part, as you can see from the threads showing in that picture.

Its part number is N 106 112 01  oval head panel screw  6 X 22  which just means that it is nominally 6mm in diameter and the threaded section is 22mm.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 24.08.2023 at 01:06, rum4mo said:

Resimde görülen dişlerden de görebileceğiniz gibi plastik bir parçaya vidalamak için kullanılan bir çeşit kendinden konik tip dişli vidadır.

Parça numarası N 106 112 01 oval başlı panel vidası 6 X 22'dir, bu da nominal olarak 6 mm çapında ve dişli bölümünün 22 mm olduğu anlamına gelir.

Thanks. 

Thanks. This piece has loosened and broken its structure. Can anyone help with the part code of this o-ring?

1111111.thumb.png.f02470b77d477bed54bce3bca5043c68.png

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