does anyone know the front hubnut size?

I will be doing the clutch on my drive any tips for getting box off, should i take both drive shafts off? Thanks

Driveshaft nut is part number 6Q0407396B. Size is 36mm, 12-point socket.

A thin-walled socket is needed as the hub recess is tight.

Edited 2 October, 20205 yr by TMB

56 minutes ago, Jake101 said:

does anyone know the front hubnut size?

I will be doing the clutch on my drive any tips for getting box off, should i take both drive shafts off? Thanks

 

Yes you should remove both driveshafts, hubnut is 36mm bi-hex.

You'll have trouble getting the car high enough to get the box out so leave it under the car pushed to one side while you replace the clutch, I assume you have a support beam for the engine.

When you remove the rear bolt holding the dogbone engine mount to the subframe DON'T get it mixed in with a load of other bolts. It is (just) a few mm shorter than some gearbox-to-engine bolts of the same thread.  If you put one of those slightly longer bolts back in that position instead of the correct one, you'll hit the underside of the steering rack with it, denting the rack and writing it off.

 

If you can get any PlusGas on (the top end of) that bolt before trying to remove it, you may reduce the risk of the captive nut breaking away.  That can happen if it's never been off before, since the exposed thread at the end of the bolt rusts. Access is awkward to spray it though.

 

 

Edited 2 October, 20205 yr by Wino

2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Yes you should remove both driveshafts, hubnut is 36mm bi-hex.

You'll have trouble getting the car high enough to get the box out so leave it under the car pushed to one side while you replace the clutch, I assume you have a support beam for the engine.

Thank you mate the car will be really high in the air so should be fine and the engine will be supported with a jack 

1 hour ago, Wino said:

When you remove the rear bolt holding the dogbone engine mount to the subframe DON'T get it mixed in with a load of other bolts. It is (just) a few mm shorter than some gearbox-to-engine bolts of the same thread.  If you put one of those slightly longer bolts back in that position instead of the correct one, you'll hit the underside of the steering rack with it, denting the rack and writing it off.

 

If you can get any PlusGas on (the top end of) that bolt before trying to remove it, you may reduce the risk of the captive nut breaking away.  That can happen if it's never been off before, since the exposed thread at the end of the bolt rusts. Access is awkward to spray it though.

 

 

 

Thanks mate i should be fine with the bolts i had engine out and rebuilt it not too long ago. Just woundering easyest way to get box off cos i know its a nightmare

Should you not have replaced the clutch while the you had the engine out ??.

 

Wullie.

 

9 minutes ago, w.t100 said:

Should you not have replaced the clutch while the you had the engine out ??.

 

Wullie.

 

 

I know, something smells fishy to me.

36 minutes ago, w.t100 said:

Should you not have replaced the clutch while the you had the engine out ??.

 

Wullie.

 

The clutch was done i put a 5 paddle in holding 380lbft. Just got sre kit as im going for arround 370hp 450lbft

Drop the subframe a few inches or alternatively drain the gearbox oil and remove the driveshaft cups, once the box is ready to come out separate it from the engine dowels and rotate it counter clockwise, this lifts the back of the gearbox up were the driveshafts connect which gives clearance to allow enough room to pull the gearbox away from the engine so the input shaft disengages from the clutch, if you don't rotate it the back of the gearbox will just hit the subframe and you won't get it to disengage from the engine.

 

I've always use a block of wood on a jack to hold the engine up and an engine hoist to take the weight of the engine as they are pretty heavy.

 

The above is for the 6 speed box in the VRS, I've had the gearbox off 7 or 8 times now and think removing the driveshaft cup and rotating the box is the best way.

16 minutes ago, duck said:

Drop the subframe a few inches or alternatively drain the gearbox oil and remove the driveshaft cups, once the box is ready to come out separate it from the engine dowels and rotate it counter clockwise, this lifts the back of the gearbox up were the driveshafts connect which gives clearance to allow enough room to pull the gearbox away from the engine so the input shaft disengages from the clutch, if you don't rotate it the back of the gearbox will just hit the subframe and you won't get it to disengage from the engine.

 

I've always use a block of wood on a jack to hold the engine up and an engine hoist to take the weight of the engine as they are pretty heavy.

 

The above is for the 6 speed box in the VRS, I've had the gearbox off 7 or 8 times now and think removing the driveshaft cup and rotating the box is the best way.

Brill thanks for that mate