Yeah, it all looks a bit scary round that area.  The wires going to the actual battery positive clamp look to be held in by not much more than a prayer in one of your previous photos.

 

The latest photo shows three fuses that have been bypassed, including the one that the wire in your fingers (alternator output) should be going through. The crimp termination on that looks 'amateurish' so there is probably a significant contact resistance there which explains the heat. That will be lowering the voltage getting to the battery from the alternator too.

 

Try to find someone with the tools and knowledge to make some better terminations on these wires.

This is the type of tool needed to do these jobs properly, not something that many garages or amateurs are going to have.

16.0mm² - 120mm² Heavy Duty Crimp Tool (tlc-direct.co.uk)

 

 

Edited 30 November, 20205 yr by Wino

That is very hard to get in this country, an automotive electrician.

 

I did a little experiment, I did remove the accesory belt, so the car running with the battery alone...  and the heat in the wires gone BUT the lights still up and down

An update, I went out for a new belt.

 

The up and down of the electrical sistem is partialy gone BUT when I turn on the AC it comes back, when I turn it if it stays for some seconds...   

In this photo, there's a red wire going through a blade fuse just hanging around near the right-hand one of the two thick black wires.

From what I can see, the top end of that wire might be attached underneath the connection of the big black wire to the fuse?

If that is how things are, swap those over so that the big wire is straight onto the fuse, the red one on top, under the nut. That will improve the connection of the big black wire, which supplies everything in the cabin.

Does the battery light now come on with ignition?

19 minutes ago, Wino said:

Does the battery light now come on with ignition?

Yes, and it goes away as it should, BUT past weeks has come on randomly couple of times

Edited 30 November, 20205 yr by Kharl

23 minutes ago, Wino said:

In this photo, there's a red wire going through a blade fuse just hanging around near the right-hand one of the two thick black wires.

From what I can see, the top end of that wire might be attached underneath the connection of the big black wire to the fuse?

If that is how things are, swap those over so that the big wire is straight onto the fuse, the red one on top, under the nut. That will improve the connection of the big black wire, which supplies everything in the cabin.

I will do that now and will try 

Can you put the battery on a charger for a few hours to get some energy into it? I think it will not have been getting charged well by the alternator with all these broken wires and bad connections.  

17 minutes ago, Wino said:

Can you put the battery on a charger for a few hours to get some energy into it? I think it will not have been getting charged well by the alternator with all these broken wires and bad connections.  

It is new (two weeks) and it was charging yesterday (since I left the car in the garage for two days while I do the wires stuff, I put the battery to charge overnight

I forgot to mention, the ignition wire signal is on

Edited 1 December, 20205 yr by Kharl

Are the brake lights working? The glow plug light can come on if  both brake bulbs have failed or the brake light switch is faulty. Having said that, it could just be on because your car is an electrical disaster area.

Edited 1 December, 20205 yr by TMB

8 minutes ago, TMB said:

Are the brake lights working? The glow plug light can come on if  both brake bulbs have failed or the brake light switch is faulty. Having said that, it could just be on because your car is an electrical disaster area.

Yes, i am aware of th three function of the glow plug lights (brake bulb, brake switch, or general electrical malfunction)

 

Yes they are working.

 

I finished working in the car for today.

 

 

I turn on the car then remove the battery, the problem was there, I turn on the car and remove the alternator, the problem was there.

I removed all the fuses but only the vital for engine keep running, and the problem was there.

Hmmm, I don't know then Has that light been on ever since you've had the car or only just come on?

8 minutes ago, TMB said:

Hmmm, I don't know then Has that light been on ever since you've had the car or only just come on?

It came on a two months ago but due the brake light switch. Then never back again until today.

 

Everything would point to the alternator or its regulator but the problem still persisted when I removed the alternator form the equation.

Edited 1 December, 20205 yr by Kharl
New info

1 minute ago, Kharl said:

It came on a two months ago but due the brake light switch. Then never back again until today.

 

I see. I suppose the switch could have failed again - they don't just work the brake lights but have connections going to the ECU as well. Other than that I'm not sure.

1 minute ago, TMB said:

 

I see. I suppose the switch could have failed again - they don't just work the brake lights but have connections going to the ECU as well. Other than that I'm not sure.

Yeah you are right,i will give it an eye tomorrow

OK.

Thank you very much for your help

43 minutes ago, Kharl said:

Thank you very much for your help

 

No problem

Good morning guys!

 

Could this problem of the voltage going up and down be cause due low oil?

 

My car burns oil, (pending job), and may be a coincidence but I did complete one liter of oil and while driving, the problem appeared only for a brief moment and with the ac on

 

 

Did you investigate that extra red wire under the second thick black wire? If that's powering fans (instead of fuse 8), it could affect voltage going to cabin/light switch/lights when the fans come on with the AC.

This red one:

 

Yes, it is for a relay for an additional horn.

 

I want to complete the missing fuses in thebatery box, do you know the rating/amperage of those fuses?

1. alternator 150A or 175A

2. cabin 110A

3. Power steering 50A

4. Glow plug relay 40A

5. Radiator fan control unit (high speed) 40A

6. ABS module 40A

 

Anything else that's been added, with its own fuse inline should be moved to the main power rail the other, far side of those fuses, so that they are not increasing the load on each of those strip fuses, and decreasing the contact reliability.

1 hour ago, Wino said:

1. alternator 150A or 175A

2. cabin 110A

3. Power steering 50A

4. Glow plug relay 40A

5. Radiator fan control unit (high speed) 40A

6. ABS module 40A

 

Anything else that's been added, with its own fuse inline should be moved to the main power rail the other, far side of those fuses, so that they are not increasing the load on each of those strip fuses, and decreasing the contact reliability.

Ohhh excellent, thank you for the fuse info and double thank you for the hint, i tought the opposite but it does have sense how you explain it