Now the problem is only when I turn on the ac

An update, late this afternoon i went to an electrician that told me the problem is either the ECU or the... i forget the name of this part, the one that let the air in in response to the accelerator, in gasoline es throttle body i guess?

 

 

Find another electrician, it's NEVER the ECU and almost never the throttle body, there has to be an air leak somewhere.

i am sceptic too but it is directly related to the idling, i mean, rpm goes up and dow with the lights and the voltage... i dont know really..

 

oh oh, i also forget to mention, the car have a service inspectionmessage, and he says the scan tool told it is related to the throttle body

Edited 2 December, 20205 yr by Kharl

Service inspection message does not relate to faults.  It just tells you when a service is due, and which type (oil or inspection).

 

What is the fault code read by the scan tool (what number)?

 

Check for broken wires close to the intake manifold flap motor (circled part in your last photo).  Check cabin fuse #24.

 

Maybe also take it off and clean the flap.  

 

I'm not too sure how air leaks affect diesels, but a very common air leak is through cracks in the vacuum hose that goes to the brake servo, big round thing on the back wall of the engine bay.  The cracks usually can be found at the ends of the hard plastic section(s).

 

 

 

Edited 2 December, 20205 yr by Wino

6 hours ago, Wino said:

Service inspection message does not relate to faults.  It just tells you when a service is due, and which type (oil or inspection).

 

What is the fault code read by the scan tool (what number)?

 

Check for broken wires close to the intake manifold flap motor (circled part in your last photo).  Check cabin fuse #24.

 

Maybe also take it off and clean the flap.  

 

I'm not too sure how air leaks affect diesels, but a very common air leak is through cracks in the vacuum hose that goes to the brake servo, big round thing on the back wall of the engine bay.  The cracks usually can be found at the ends of the hard plastic section(s).

 

 

 

Thank you, ok i will check and let you know tomorrow

7 hours ago, Wino said:

Service inspection message does not relate to faults.  It just tells you when a service is due, and which type (oil or inspection).

 

What is the fault code read by the scan tool (what number)?

 

Check for broken wires close to the intake manifold flap motor (circled part in your last photo).  Check cabin fuse #24.

 

Maybe also take it off and clean the flap.  

 

I'm not too sure how air leaks affect diesels, but a very common air leak is through cracks in the vacuum hose that goes to the brake servo, big round thing on the back wall of the engine bay.  The cracks usually can be found at the ends of the hard plastic section(s).

 

 

 

vacuum leaks apparently does not affect in that way, because when i purchased the car had all sort of leaks, i had to replace and fix mani hoses and leaks, the brakes were very bad, and when that the idling was good, so no vacuum related to that idling problem.

 

i plan tomorrow to remove the intake part and to clean it all.

they lock and unlock problem, was a broken something inside the key lock barrell and need to reprogram to the system work properly

 

still pending to check wires

 

regarding the idling...

 

 

what ever it is, the voltage goes up and down

What if you tried running the engine without the aux belt on so that the alternator is not turning and see if it makes any difference to the idle?

Massive current drain sounds like the PAS pump might be running when it shouldn't.

That would affect the idle and the voltage.

3 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

Massive current drain sounds like the PAS pump might be running when it shouldn't.

That would affect the idle and the voltage.

 

Yeah, the PAS pump might be cycling on and off for some reason. The on and off load on the alternator would affect the idle.

8 hours ago, TMB said:

What if you tried running the engine without the aux belt on so that the alternator is not turning and see if it makes any difference to the idle?

Hi!

 

yes, i did that, and still the same.

8 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

Massive current drain sounds like the PAS pump might be running when it shouldn't.

That would affect the idle and the voltage.

And that could justify the ver warm battery cable since i start the engine.

 

Please tell me more about it!

 

what is PAS?

Power Assisted Steering.

3 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

Power Assisted Steering.

never ever would imagine that!

 

i guess, the test is simple,, to put it out of the system, right?

 

i guess that with removing its fuse, right?

i see no fuse for that, in mine the fuse box has no fuse for it.

There should be a strip fuse in positon 3 for it on your car. It looks like someone has removed it and connected the wire straight to the busbar beyond.

Cabin fuse 7 is an ignition on 12V supply to the PAS module which will also disable it, if that's easier?

I'll just check what else might also be disabled with removing fuse 7, on your car, but I wouldn't advise driving without the PAS working anyway.

 

Can't see anything else affected.

2 hours ago, Wino said:

Can't see anything else affected.

Thank you !

i did organize all the fuses in the battery area *the best for now( and i did remove the power cable to the pump, i was able to confirm it because the steering light and the hard steer, and no luck, the problem still there.

ufff good news! i went to a store near home that sells electrical equipment and they had the special tool for the clamps in the wires you suggested me, i decide to make a stop there to install and organize the wires

and wen i finish an di turn on the car, voila!, problem gone!

^ Excellent!

Are you going to fix the cut wire too?....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 4 December, 20205 yr by TMB

The new wire looks to be nicely terminated, but would be better if it was as short as possible. It normally goes to a stud on the underside of that fuse panel instead of where it now is, which is where the alternator fuse and connection is from the factory.

 

But if everything works, just be happy and enjoy the car.

Error

Edited 4 December, 20205 yr by TMB

2 hours ago, Wino said:

The new wire looks to be nicely terminated, but would be better if it was as short as possible. It normally goes to a stud on the underside of that fuse panel instead of where it now is, which is where the alternator fuse and connection is from the factory.

 

But if everything works, just be happy and enjoy the car.

Yeaj i was thinking about doing it with a shorter wire, that will be for the next roundm

 

Regarding the cable going underside, i will gice it a look and see ig i can put it there.