I did the right side, no probs. It is the style of multi 12 point with ribs on underside of head. They superseded that bolt, to smooth underside. Think I know why !!

 

left side. Pb blaster, 1m breaker bar, 2 blokes standing on it,

 

Hired a high torque Milwaukee Fuel, no movement. The one they use on trucks, 1/2 inch.

 

Anyone overcome this?

 

Bit stuck for a next step. Any ideas massively appreciated.

Edited 15 January, 20215 yr by pmdc199

Heat? just a thought.

I've never had problems with pneumatic Ingersol Rand gun.

 

If it's driveable try asking a garage to loosen it for you.

 

If not try a can of air duster to freeze-shrink it, turn the can upside down and empty the whole contents onto the end of the bolt and retry.

Edited 15 January, 20215 yr by MicMac

Heat, blowtorch-carefully

Also try tightening it a fraction before attempting removal.

Edited 15 January, 20215 yr by GreenMachine1.6
spelling

Why not try a 30mm ring spanner and hammer, that's a lot of force. 

Thanks gents, It is drivable. I think taking to a garage, with a non ribbed in my hand will help 😜.

 

i am always concerned with heat. Did cross my mind.

 

Going to try one more socket that is impact as my current is draper expert top 1/2 inch joint beginning to get eaten.

Just a thought - is it possible that this nut is 'handed'? I.E. left-hand thread on left side axle?  

@Warrior193

No.

Also try with someone inside pressing on the brake pedal together with the breaker bar

Before you jack the car up or take the wheel off. Get a mate to stand on the brakes while you slide a pipe over the breaker bar and use it to get the nut cracked off. I use the handle off a 3 tonne jack as an extension and it works every time. 

11 hours ago, StevesTruck said:

Before you jack the car up or take the wheel off. Get a mate to stand on the brakes while you slide a pipe over the breaker bar and use it to get the nut cracked off. I use the handle off a 3 tonne jack as an extension and it works every time. 

Thanks, I need a decent pipe, as only have the breaker bar.

 

I have also seen a couple of people use a trolley jack to push against the bar to force it off on a breaker bar. I might try that first.

 

I've had to use a short scaffold bar slipped over the end of a 30 or 36 inch breaker bar. The scaffold bar used to be my dad's, no idea how he got it.

40 minutes ago, pmdc199 said:

Thanks, I need a decent pipe, as only have the breaker bar.

 

I have also seen a couple of people use a trolley jack to push against the bar to force it off on a breaker bar. I might try that first.

 

Be careful, there will be a lot of explosive energy if something slips/gives.

Yup, safety specs ready, standing well back.

5 minutes ago, Me-109 said:

I've had to use a short scaffold bar slipped over the end of a 30 or 36 inch breaker bar. The scaffold bar used to be my dad's, no idea how he got it.

Been there done that on a Peugeot, someone's boot kept the socket secure while I held on to the roof rail as I bounced my way along the length of the scaffold pipe, nearly ran out of pipe/roof rail and assistant was getting twitchy.

I tried jack trick with caliper carrier bolt, I found the spanner would slip off at a certain tension but if your able to secure the spanner a bit to the jack then very good method.

I think a method my brother has used is to fit the socket and breaker so the tip of the bar is on or near the ground, then engage 1st/reverse to suit so that as the car moves it levers the bar enough to crack the nut off. It might depends on the surface you have to work with - you don't really want the tip digging in.

Finally it came free.

 

Bought an impact socket for that Milwaukee, said for VW axle bolts 🤷🏻‍♂️.

 

Put my daughter in as light to push brakes. Car on ground. After a few times gunning, it freed 👍🏻👍🏻🤷🏻‍♂️
 

These are amazing. Pricey unless you are a Pro, But Speedy hire them for £30 for weekend. You can programme settings so you do not over torque. 
https://uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/one-key-fuel-8243;-impact-wrench-with-friction-ring/m18-onefhiwf12/

 

Thanks for all your help.

 

48 minutes ago, Me-109 said:

I think a method my brother has used is to fit the socket and breaker so the tip of the bar is on or near the ground, then engage 1st/reverse to suit so that as the car moves it levers the bar enough to crack the nut off. It might depends on the surface you have to work with - you don't really want the tip digging in.

I was going to suggest that method but it's a bit hairy, if you are on here asking for suggestions you probably shouldn't use such creative physics!

The other way is to jack your car up as much as you can, put large ring spanner on nut so that hopefully the free end of spanner is touching the ground then lower jack so that weight of car is pushing spanner into ground. Obviously you'd need to make sure the spanner was correct side so as not to tighten bolt. You can also put strong block of wood or block under free end of spanner.

Edited 16 January, 20215 yr by Aj77

1 hour ago, Me-109 said:

I think a method my brother has used is to fit the socket and breaker so the tip of the bar is on or near the ground, then engage 1st/reverse to suit so that as the car moves it levers the bar enough to crack the nut off. It might depends on the surface you have to work with - you don't really want the tip digging in.

I saw a guy yo that on Youtube. Not sure I would have the guts to do that 😂

p

Edited 19 January, 20215 yr by pmdc199
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