Got a broken spring on the offside and previous MoTs have sometimes identified a light misting on the nearside strut. I don't think the offside is much better so going to replace both struts, springs and top mounts (while I'm there). At least that means I can fully assemble them on the bench, so to speak, and speed up the strip/install.

So the question is, can I pull the strut without having to pull the driveshaft? These are 50mm struts, if that makes a difference (it might with length)? Ball joint and/or track rod end to get wiggle room, is that all that's required?

Bonus question, can you fit a new spring just using the threaded-bar type spring compressors? When I did the Fabia's springs last year I ended up taking them to the local tyre-and-exhaust type places for them to use their hydraulic compressor. Just the wrong size or spacing of coils for both sets I have.

There are a few videos on YouTube that show it being done with Drive shaft still in. They tend to bash the **** out of the knuckle to get strut out. Personally not something I would want to do.

 

All the other ones I looked at, at least took shaft out, and the lower three nuts on ball joint. Some the whole strut and hub with ball joint on to do on bench. That’s what I did.

 

i found - even with the strange strut tool spreader, that the strut was rusted in at top and bottom where strut sits. So, no nice slide out with the pinch bolt area spread.

 

You will have more room with it out.

 

But, search Golf strut removal on You Tube to see what you think. 

 

Mine is 10 years old. If yours is newer might be better.

There are differing opinions on your first question, personally I have always pulled the hub from the driveshaft as there isn't enough downward movement before the driveshaft jams on the wishbone.

 

Yes, the threaded rod with 2 hooks can be used on the springs, work carefully and swiftly, a compressed spring on those janky DIY items is a grenade waiting to go off.

Haven't YouTubed anything yet. Mine's a 61 plate so heading on for 10 years old. Looks reasonable decent condition so hoping for just a quick wire brush of the bolts, rattle the nuts off and see if I can get one of my trusty chisel in as a spreader.

 

If the spring is compressed slightly on the vehicle then the strut can be removed from the hub carrier with ease, unlikely to be enough room for compressors in the strut tower but ratchet straps work a treat, safest way is to have a couple of heavy guys one sitting in the relevant seat the other on the relevant side of the bonnet slam panel & then attach the straps.

 

For reassembly fit the straps while the spring is still lightly compressed.

If I'd known that technique on Friday when I did Polo's OSF I'd've just got the missis to sit on the front wing for a minute while I got some straps on it. 

Boingggg! said Zebedee

 

 

3 hours ago, Me-109 said:

Haven't YouTubed anything yet. Mine's a 61 plate so heading on for 10 years old. Looks reasonable decent condition so hoping for just a quick wire brush of the bolts, rattle the nuts off and see if I can get one of my trusty chisel in as a spreader.

Just bear in mind that if you over cook it with the chisel, it's really easy to split the collar that goes around the hub as it's all cast metal. 

Do you know what a wacker plate is called in my country?

 

Une dameuse

 

The name comes from where the rotund women were traditionally used for any task where things needed treading down like grape pressing.

 

Une personneuse does not have the same ring to it!

Well, I went for it at the weekend. Two freezing cold days on the drive. I could have squeezed it into the garage but I'd not have that much room around it and it would still have been freezing.

I pulled the driveshafts as it looked like it would make life easier. I had a polybush set for the arms I was saving for Spring, but since I had to pull so much of the same stuff I figured I might as well do it once, so another reason to get more working room.

I dicked about with the drop links for too long before deciding the hexes were too worn and ended up grinding them off and nipping out for new ones.

The wipers took about an hour to get off. Couldn't lever them off, get a puller in or manipulate the arm free. Large tools to put pressure on the back side and a gentle tap of the shaft finally worked.

Then the last top mount captive 'nut' decided to become uncaptive and took another hour with help from my brother, who then lent a hand with removing the arms. That pretty much ended day 1 with stripping it. About 6 hours work with three hours of faffing.

Old spring was broken very near the edge of the seat.

https://flic.kr/p/2kvCyv2

New units all KYB with the exception of the top mounts (Febi).

 

Bush kit from ProblemSolvingBushes. It was easier to remove the casting and do the off the car, which meant I could give it a good sanding down too. It was also easier to fit the arm to the bush before refitting to car. Did the front bushes too, but have saved the ARB bushes for another day - really didn't have time/enough daylight.

 

 

 

 

 

https://flic.kr/p/2kvG9yz

 

https://flic.kr/p/2kvCxic

 

https://flic.kr/p/2kvG9kt

 

https://flic.kr/p/2kvCx3x

 

The first one was a bit more fiddly working out how far to push onto the arm. It also looks like that bush isn't pressed as far as the second one, but both go out the backside of the casting so are well embedded. It felt like it had gone all the way but I built that side up completely before doing the second and finding the other bush went in further.

Refitting the rest was pretty quick and it was really only trying to refit the plastic trim below the screen that gave me grief. I've put a crack in that and didn't get it all seated as the cold made it inflexible and turned the mush in the seal to hard filler.

The ride is firmer, which I attribute to the new shocks and springs more than the bushes. Steering feel is slightly heavier which I attribute to the bushes. There was also a different tone to the road noise. Not more noise, but a lower tone which again I think is down to the bushes.

Edited 25 January, 20215 yr by Me-109

Well done.

 

In my experience the front springs usually snap at the lower pigtail, possibly a design flaw or intentional weak spot to limit collapse travel should a spring break mid-length.

 

The captive nuts on the strut top bearings are usually a potential snag, especially on older units.  Wire-brushing the exposed threads clean and applying penetrant can help and if they become loose can sometimes be gripped with self-locking pliers although I have had to hacksaw the head off a part-removed bolt on a couple of inaccessible ones and substitute the nut and bolt .  A liberal application of copper grease on the exposed threads upon reassembly helps the next time.

1 hour ago, Me-109 said:

Well, I went for it at the weekend. Two freezing cold days on the drive. I could have squeezed it into the garage but I'd not have that much room around it and it would still have been freezing.

I pulled the driveshafts as it looked like it would make life easier. I had a polybush set for the arms I was saving for Spring, but since I had to pull so much of the same stuff I figured I might as well do it once, so another reason to get more working room.

I dicked about with the drop links for too long before deciding the hexes were too worn and ended up grinding them off and nipping out for new ones.

The wipers took about an hour to get off. Couldn't lever them off, get a puller in or manipulate the arm free. Large tools to put pressure on the back side and a gentle tap of the shaft finally worked.

Then the last top mount captive 'nut' decided to become uncaptive and took another hour with help from my brother, who then lent a hand with removing the arms. That pretty much ended day 1 with stripping it. About 6 hours work with three hours of faffing.

Old spring was broken very near the edge of the seat.

https://flic.kr/p/2kvCyv2

Well done, my wipers were a pain too. I had to pull like crazy, but had read stories of people cracking windscreens 😱. 
The bottom of both my springs were really rusty, glad I changed them.

@MicMac Yes, tried the mole-grips on the 'nut' with a little success. Cut away the rubber to get a bit more purchase on it.  Tried sockets but it's not a hex nut. Got a few threads showing enough to cut most of the way through with a bare hacksaw blade and the twist the head off with a socket. The new bolts were suitably copper greased up, just in case. That reminds me, I did mean to fill the ends of the drop link thread with grease to help reduce problems from rust and cr@p. 

 

@pmdc199 Given the cold (iced over windscreen) I was seriously worried about that, and again when refitting the trim. Thumping the trim with either end of a rubber mallet got so far but I had to quit it was that iced.

When I was doing this job last weekend I thought the pads were a bit worn, so this weekend's job was discs and pads. Since I was in there again I figured I should have a go at the rear bush I was unhappy with, while the threads were all good and clean.

Easy enough this time. Bush did pop out and reseat fully this time. First pic is the old one, second is today's. 

https://flic.kr/p/2kvCx3x

 

https://flic.kr/p/2kxpwZL

36 minutes ago, Me-109 said:

When I was doing this job last weekend I thought the pads were a bit worn, so this weekend's job was discs and pads. Since I was in there again I figured I should have a go at the rear bush I was unhappy with, while the threads were all good and clean.

Easy enough this time. Bush did pop out and reseat fully this time. First pic is the old one, second is today's. 

https://flic.kr/p/2kvCx3x

 

https://flic.kr/p/2kxpwZL

what discs and pads did you use. I used Pagid, but disc rusting already.

 

are they poly bushes

Brembo on the front. I did do Pagid on the rear in early Dec and they're holding up well. The discs and pads were changed all round when I bought the car - main dealer so VAG OE all round - and they rusted with a whiff of damp.

Bushes are poly bushes. From eBay- Problem Solving Bushes, a good bit cheaper than Powerflex.

8 hours ago, Me-109 said:

Brembo on the front. I did do Pagid on the rear in early Dec and they're holding up well. The discs and pads were changed all round when I bought the car - main dealer so VAG OE all round - and they rusted with a whiff of damp.

Bushes are poly bushes. From eBay- Problem Solving Bushes, a good bit cheaper than Powerflex.

do you know who vag use as OE?

No. The parts were only marked with VAG labels and codes. Discs are definitely not Brembo.

Don't give me nightmares about this,I have to do mine soon, got all the bits lined up.

 

 

Trev

2 hours ago, Aston_Bodger said:

Don't give me nightmares about this,I have to do mine soon, got all the bits lined up.

 

 

Trev

 

Turned out to be an absolute nightmare for me, every bolt pretty much snapped.

Sent it to the garage on the end.

Yeah the bolts do seem to be made from cheese, total carp, years ago you could reuse them with on problems, not any more.

 

When I do have a go at it, looks like soaking everything in Rost off, bloody good stuff that, used to use it when I worked on the rally cars back in 2002.

 

 

 

Trev

Edited 2 February, 20215 yr by Aston_Bodger
spelling

I'd just plan for new ball joints and drop links, they will almost definitely cause you issues.

I upgraded my top mounts and bearings to ttrs ones and fitted new bump stops and dust covers too.

4 hours ago, Aston_Bodger said:

Don't give me nightmares about this,I have to do mine soon, got all the bits lined up.

 

 

Trev

i took my whole strut and hub unit off. Much easier to work on imho. 
 

i got a hunter 4 wheel yesterday too. Quite a way out. But I did tie rods too