Hi all.

 

I have bought the above vehicle today. I have a few questions please. Apologies if these have been answered elsewhere.

 

1. How do I get the DPF filter light to go off? I have read in other posts about driving the car for about 15mins at high revs? Or using an additive e.g. Millers or VPower fuel? Never had this issue on my 2002 SDI. Previous owner says car has been parked up for about 4 months?

 

2. New battery was put in and now the radio needs a code. The previous owner doesn't have a owner's handbook unless it is in the glove box which I am having difficulty opening. Where do I find the engine code code to get a code of ebay? I've looked in the door panels, under the bonnet and under the boot where the spare tyre should be.

 

3. Front brakes when applied screech lightly making it sound dry like chalk on a blackboard. Does it require lubricant?

 

Any help is much appreciated. 

 

Thanks

Edited 12 May, 20215 yr by Faz02
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If the DPF isn't too badly clogged, go for a long-ish drive, 40-50 km sort of thing. That'll give it time to go into regen and clear itself if it can. If that doesn't work, you may be able to force a regen but you will need VCDS or something similar to do this. If that doesn't work, it's likely the DPF is completely clogged and in need of replacement. Cleaning may be possible as a cheaper if you can find someone reputable to do it.

 

To be honest this car sounds a bit dodgy. If you bought it from a dealer it might be best to return it and get a refund.

We had a 61 reg 1.6 diesel Fabia, used mainly for short trips, so it wasn’t an unusual occurrence for the DPF light to come on. 
 We have a local by-pass so a couple of laps in third gear at 2500-3000 revs dealt with it until the next time.

 

 

 

 

For the dpf, I think the manual says once you are over 60kph and between 1500 and 2200 (not sure on the exact number) it will regen itself. I have only had the dpf light come one once, over christmas when I wasnt driving very far. A 10 minute run on the N2 cleared it.

Is it a standard radio? Maybe ring up a dealer and see whats up.

If the radio was the original one, it should re-code (Or check its own code) And then, after saying "Safe", operate as usual.Yu might need to re=scan the bands but it should work. 

The DPF is a bit trickier, it may just need the faster drive along a duel carriageway/motorway for a while, until it clears or it may need a forced regen, often costing a few hundred quid! The brakes, some squeal, some don't! Proper use of say, copper slip, behind the pads and along the edges, where the pads meet the callipers, may help but if the brakes are worn, have grooves on the discs, etc, replacing the discs and pads may be the better option. Eurocarparts, carparts4less, etc are usually quite cheap for these, if you use an online code. (Assuming you can sort the work yourself). I found Eicher discs seem to squeal as I usually fit Bosch but had Eicher discs, Bosch pads last time. That may be part of the issue as Bosch on Bosch, what I usually use, don't usually squeal. Never used Eicher before, won't again!

Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

I have done as advised and for now DPF light is off. I rang dealership wrt radio, they can't sort it without plugging in a diagnostic machine which is £30 and I would have to wait a week.

 

I contacted an eBay seller wrt a radio code who advised the same about a VCDS, I haven't the foggiest what to do,  is there anyway of finding the code on the radio without having to take it out? I know it starts with SZ as per ebay seller but that's it.

 

Any ideas please?

 

Plus as one light on the dash goes off another has come on. There was a coil light flashing like a slinky spring opened currently off, from experience with my previous skoda it means something to with the brake lights? A sensor or something? I might be wrong. Attached photo.

 

I bought the car privately and the seller seemed genuine and the car has been parked up  since January,  could this be a factor with the current issues? Wrt brakes I'll have to ask my local mechanic to get it in the ramp and have a look perhaps. 

 

Thanks for everyone's help and input, much appreciated 👍🏽

 

Edited 13 May, 20215 yr by Faz02
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The coil light and the one in your picture are both indications of engine faults. You will need to do a diagnostic scan to find out what those faults are.

Thanks I'll have to get it checked out. Engine faults? Sounds serious. Hope it's not.

Edited 13 May, 20215 yr by Faz02

2 hours ago, Faz02 said:

Thanks I'll have to get it checked out. Engine faults? Sounds serious. Hope it's not.

I've only ever had the glow plug light flash for engine codes, never the engine light itself. You can check codes with torque pro and a cheapy bluetooth elm327 Dongle, clear them too.

...In the meantime, check all the brake lights are working, perhaps all bulbs as its an easy job. If the brakeight switch has failed, no brake lights will come on but the bulbs will work, when tested.

23 hours ago, DieselMonte said:

I've only ever had the glow plug light flash for engine codes, never the engine light itself. You can check codes with torque pro and a cheapy bluetooth elm327 Dongle, clear them too.

Hi. Thanks. Can I get these from ebay I assume? Torque Pro is that software?

 

 

2 hours ago, mrgf said:

...In the meantime, check all the brake lights are working, perhaps all bulbs as its an easy job. If the brakeight switch has failed, no brake lights will come on but the bulbs will work, when tested.

Thanks 

Edited 14 May, 20215 yr by Faz02

Torque Pro is an app you can get for your phone, on the play store and app store. I think its 4 euro iirc, well worth it. I have a few elm327 OBDII dongles hanging about. I use it in the mk2 to read Volts, Water temp and Boost. I have a vent mounted phone holder and have it so I can easily glance at it on occasion.

You can set warnings on it too.

If you couldnt guess, i'm a fan of it. Used to run it for water temp and volts in the mk1 but mainly keep it connected to the mk2 as thats what I'm driving 90% of the time now.

Torque/Torque Pro only support OBD 2 codes: that means most engine & transmission codes. OBDEleven is a bit more expensive because you need their adapter but it covers VAG specific codes on other control modules as well. Carista supports most VAG codes on other modules too I think. If you get the Carista or OBDEleven bluetooth adapter, you can use the VAG DPF app with it to monitor your DPF health - very useful for knowing when a regen is coming up so you can make sure it is completed before you shut down the engine.

Thanks for your help. I have bought an elm327 dongle. Would the torque lite app do the same job? Has better reviews on Google play store. Is there anything similar to obtain a radio code?

 

I'll have to take the radio out otherwise to see what the the code is if there is a label in the back of it. Not sure how to go about it.

 

I had some keys in my old skoda that hooked into either side of the radio so it could be pulled out. Are there any specific tools for the the newer Skodas? Thanks 

Edited 14 May, 20215 yr by Faz02

1 hour ago, chimaera said:

Torque/Torque Pro only support OBD 2 codes: that means most engine & transmission codes. OBDEleven is a bit more expensive because you need their adapter but it covers VAG specific codes on other control modules as well. Carista supports most VAG codes on other modules too I think. If you get the Carista or OBDEleven bluetooth adapter, you can use the VAG DPF app with it to monitor your DPF health - very useful for knowing when a regen is coming up so you can make sure it is completed before you shut down the engine.

I forgot all about Carista, and I've tried the VAG dpf app but my adapter wont read on it. Carista is meant to be good, I've not used it. I've been able to clear codes with torque thus far. Honestly dont think I need anything more than it, for the time being.

1 hour ago, DieselMonte said:

I forgot all about Carista, and I've tried the VAG dpf app but my adapter wont read on it. Carista is meant to be good, I've not used it. I've been able to clear codes with torque thus far. Honestly dont think I need anything more than it, for the time being.

I use a Carista adapter for VAG-DPF and it works well. I've occasionally used Carista itself for fault scans, but when I already have VCDS it's not that important to me to be able to do that.

Hi thanks for your advice and help. I have had the car checked out by my local mechanic, who has told me that the exhaust sensor needs replacing which is quite an expensive part about £80 new and £20 from scrappers.

 

Not sure whether to actually replace it as I was advised car will be fine without having to replace it. Plus if it comes off then putting on the new one shouldn't be an issue but if it cracks then the DPF will have to be taken off and the new exhaust sensor welded on. Sounds like a lot of work to me, plus he said its aluminium so can't be heated too much? 

 

Not sure what to do might just leave it for now or get a second opinion perhaps?

Edited 15 May, 20215 yr by Faz02

1 hour ago, Faz02 said:

Hi thanks for your advice and help. I have had the car checked out by my local mechanic, who has told me that the exhaust sensor needs replacing which is quite an expensive part about £80 new and £20 from scrappers.

 

Not sure whether to actually replace it as I was advised car will be fine without having to replace it. Plus if it comes off then putting on the new one shouldn't be an issue but if it cracks then the DPF will have to be taken off and the new exhaust sensor welded on. Sounds like a lot of work to me, plus he said its aluminium so can't be heated too much? 

 

Not sure what to do might just leave it for now or get a second opinion perhaps?

 

I'd get a second opinion if I were you, even Halfrauds only charge £85 to clean your DPF out.

The sensors are not welded on, he's talking about the Lambda probe which has nothing to do with the DPF whatsoever.

The DPF has a differential pressure sensor which is like a pair of MAP sensors which measure the back pressure in the system, these are very reliable and hardly ever need replacing.

Re the radio if it is the original one it should be coded to the car.  Turn the radio off then ignition off then ignition on and then radio back on.   It should then check codes with the car, clear safe mode and work fine 

Thanks 

18 hours ago, skomaz said:

Re the radio if it is the original one it should be coded to the car.  Turn the radio off then ignition off then ignition on and then radio back on.   It should then check codes with the car, clear safe mode and work fine 

Hi. I've tried this a few times. Still wants a code. 

43 minutes ago, Faz02 said:

Hi. I've tried this a few times. Still wants a code. 

 

Hmmm...   Strange!

 

The chassis no should be visible in a 'window' in the black surround of the bottom right of the windscreen.  That might get you the code but only if it is the original radio.

 

I'd be trying to get the glovebox open to see what's in there...

 Pop the surround off around the radio (I pushed a small flat blade screwdriver in, just be happy it is moving before applying too much pressure) and you will see the screws holding it in - torx heads - then pull radio out, less than 5 minutes. Ebay code  sellers will want the number off the radio itself, main dealer may do it via chassis number as seen through windscreen or available on V5. The sensor should be a block with 2 pipes and an electrical connector going into it somewhere in the engine bay below the scuttle and is a DIY job with the sensors on Ebay quite cheap

 as you have bought the ELM ODB I suggest you download the free VAG DPF app from the Google store - if that is actually the issue and try it, but you need to ensure it covers your engine code as not all are covered.

Edited 16 May, 20215 yr by KeithCheetham

1 hour ago, Faz02 said:

Hi. I've tried this a few times. Still wants a code. 

I would phone up a dealer and see what they can do, if they are nearby. I've had the battery out of my car before and never come across the radio needing a code. Who steals radios nowadays anyway?

Thanks. Will see if I can get the glovebox open. 

 

Wrt radio, put a flat blade screwdriver around the radio you mean? Old skoda just needed two keys either side and then prise it out. This one seems more involved as no screws visible?

 

Appreciate your help.