Skip to content

I bought a Skoda Fabia 1.6 TDI 2010 model today. DPF warning light has come on.

Featured Replies

2 hours ago, Faz02 said:

So if I am right, I will not know what part I need without removing the one that needs replacing? 

 

The scrapyard I have been to have given me the correct part but the garage across from me have said it has the wrong connector on it? I'm assuming the connector is specific to the car as has been advised above? 

 

Thanks for your help. 

 

Try getting a photo of it that you can read the part number on. But if the car is immobile now and you're going to have to take it off anyway...

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 108
  • Views 16.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most Popular Posts

  • Picked one up for £10 from my local scrapyard. Is it a straightforward fix? Thanks 

  • sepulchrave
    sepulchrave

    If I've said it once I've said it a thousand times, mileage is a very unreliable indicator of a vehicles general condition, it's a reliable money spinner for the motor trade though.   So the

  • If the radio was the original one, it should re-code (Or check its own code) And then, after saying "Safe", operate as usual.Yu might need to re=scan the bands but it should work.  The DPF is a b

Posted Images

On 08/06/2021 at 19:05, Faz02 said:

So if I am right, I will not know what part I need without removing the one that needs replacing? 

 

The scrapyard I have been to have given me the correct part but the garage across from me have said it has the wrong connector on it? I'm assuming the connector is specific to the car as has been advised above? 

 

Thanks for your help. 

Hi faz

 

presuming you have it fixed now but if you have gave up. 

 

that is the wrong connector on the end. the end of the part code should have BK (not EC) on the end and should be black not orange  😁

 

i have the same engine as you. 

 

03L906088BK the one you’re looking for. 

 

 

Edited by Cozza89

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Hi all. Thanks for your advice and messages. The car was involved in an accident, I have now had it fixed.

 

The warning lights are the same, would it be better you think to replace the sensor with the right one as per above advice and see if it corrects the issue or ask an autoelectrician?

 

On a side note what's the best way to get the diesel out of the tank please? I don't want mes around with the diesel filter and get it our from there.

 

On that note the return pipe came loose and diesel was leaking. The guy who fixed the bodywork out the return pipe back on and now I'm not sure what to do I replace the return pipe with a dealership one or? 

 

I have had a look on the forum and I have seen posts that mention injector seals?

 

Thanks for your help 

Edited by Faz02

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Hi all. Still having issues with my injectors and fuel return pipe. I bought the car back from insurance and had the bootlid and bumper replaced. I've replaced the fuel return pipe and battery today. 

 

If anyone has and advice on what I should do please? I have put it on sale but obviously I will not be selling it in the condition its in as I drive it today and had smoke coming from under the bonnet after replacing the fuel return pipe. 

 

It's had three injectors replaced from scrap yard and seems to be having the same problems when I first bought it. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

Smoke from under the bonnet suggests fuel or oil is leaking onto the hot exhaust somewhere, don't just throw a bunch of stuff at it, work through the problems systematically.

  • Author

Right thanks. The engine bay is flooded with diesel like it was before too. Is this an injector problem? 

1 minute ago, Faz02 said:

Right thanks. The engine bay is flooded with diesel like it was before too. Is this an injector problem? 

No, almost certainly a problem with the fuel lines in the engine bay. If there is fuel all over the engine bay you need to park the car until it is cleaned up. Fuel splashing on hot engine parts is very likely to start a fire. I would suggest you find a good fuel injection specialist and trailer the car to them to have it repaired by someone who knows what they're doing.

Also, if you don't know for certain where fuel is leaking from, don't open the bonnet with the engine running. Fuel leaking from the high pressure lines is pressurised to ~2000 bar and will cause serious injuries if it hit you.

Common rail diesels don't use high pressure lines, that's why they're called common rail, it'll be the low pressure return lines leaking, perfectly safe to replace.

Clean up and buy a length of fuel hose from which you can cut all the new pieces and replace the lot.

2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

Common rail diesels don't use high pressure lines, that's why they're called common rail, it'll be the low pressure return lines leaking, perfectly safe to replace.

Clean up and buy a length of fuel hose from which you can cut all the new pieces and replace the lot.

2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

Common rail diesels don't use high pressure lines, that's why they're called common rail, it'll be the low pressure return lines leaking, perfectly safe to replace.

Clean up and buy a length of fuel hose from which you can cut all the new pieces and replace the lot.

The common rail holds pressure at up to 2000 bar and releases it to the injectors at that pressure when required through the 4 hard lines that run from the rail to the injectors. If there's a leak there the chance of hypodermic injury is extremely high when the engine is running. Given that the OP has been messing around with changing injectors and is now leaking fuel, it would be irresponsible not to highlight the possibility of this happening. The only time the high pressure side of the injection system is safe is when the engine is switched off.

36 minutes ago, chimaera said:

The common rail holds pressure at up to 2000 bar and releases it to the injectors at that pressure when required through the 4 hard lines that run from the rail to the injectors. If there's a leak there the chance of hypodermic injury is extremely high when the engine is running. Given that the OP has been messing around with changing injectors and is now leaking fuel, it would be irresponsible not to highlight the possibility of this happening. The only time the high pressure side of the injection system is safe is when the engine is switched off.

 

I understand what you're saying but the high pressure side is contained by hard steel pipes which cannot leak except at the glands where they are connected, it's easy to check these for tightness with a spanner.

No-one is suggesting fiddling around with the injectors while the engine is running, I simply suggested cleaning the engine bay up so that the leak can be spotted, I maintain that this is MUCH more likely to be on the low pressure return side which uses soft pipes as stated.

There is no need to catastrophise and sound the safety siren at this stage. Suggesting the OP trailer the car to a garage is simply ridiculous, this is a self-help forum, let's find out more before getting hysterical.

The OP is sounding increasingly out of their depth, the car is no better than it was when they started except now it has fuel sprayed around the engine compartment. Sometimes you've got to admit defeat and bring in professionals.

  • Author

Thanks for your replies. Yes it seems that I'm having the same problems when I first bought the car. Having said that, my mechanic has replaced the injector no4 seals and taken it for a long drive, seems OK now. 

 

Would a good fuel injection specialist be hard to find? Would a generic one that can sort all cars out be suitable? Thanks 

  • Author

With regards to the original sensor problem, I had an autoelectrician look at it and bring up the codes on his computer. Apparently it's the number 3 sensor DPF temperature sensor that is very similar to the sensor no4 that I have replaced in error. Its before the DPF. I can't find it on ebay and the parts place I have asked I'm apprehensive about as its £80. 

 

If anyone knows what it llooks like that would be great,  he said u need it on the ramp it's a two pronged sensor. I'm wondering if it's the one already posted on this thread? Any help or advice is really appreciated. Thanks 

  • Author
On 03/08/2021 at 16:12, Cozza89 said:

Hi faz

 

presuming you have it fixed now but if you have gave up. 

 

that is the wrong connector on the end. the end of the part code should have BK (not EC) on the end and should be black not orange  😁

 

i have the same engine as you. 

 

03L906088BK the one you’re looking for. 

 

 

Is this for the DPF temperature sensor? Thanks 

  • Author

I've had a look on eBay, this is a brown end one fitting the description the autoelectrician gave me. 

Screenshot_20211008-192658_eBay.jpg

It looks like that yes. And if you look back at some of my posts from our discussion earlier in the thread, you will find a reasonable description of where it is and how to get to it.

It's just a thermocouple in a fancy housing, they're all the same really just with a different plug on the end depending on application.

  • Author

Thanks everyone. I'm just confused with the brown/black end of the sensor. The before DPF sensor 3 is that the above or the black end as mentioned in an earlier post?

Edited by Faz02

2 hours ago, Faz02 said:

Thanks everyone. I'm just confused with the brown/black end of the sensor. The before DPF sensor 3 is that the above or the black end as mentioned in an earlier post?

 

I don't think the colour of the plastic matters, the plug will be the same, the length of the lead might be different though.

Best thing to do is find your existing probe and take a good look at it.

Ok, going by this diagram, you have three exhaust temperature sensors: one before the turbo, and one either side of the DPF. There are two P/Ns given on each one - I'm guessing there's a superseded part or an equivalent spare part available.

 

For your CAYC engine with right hand drive (PR-L0R) these are:

Pre-Turbo is number 12 on the diagram: P/N is 03L 906 088 BK [alternative 8K0 973 702]

Before DPF is number 10 on the diagram: P/N is 03L 906 088 DE [alternative 1J0 973 702 A]

After DPF is number 15 on the diagram: P/N is 03G 906 088 AF [alternative 8K0 973 702 C]

 

From what you mentioned above, you need the middle of those three (03L 906 088 DE). Please note that if you are searching for a part by part number that you need to search for the entire number including the letters at the end.

  • Sponsor

Watch out for the PR-L0L versus PR-L0R in the third column of the table on that page, LHD and RHD respectively.

  • Author

Brilliant thanks. Will have a look and see if I can find it on Ebay.

Hi,

 

as previously stated this is the part you need, and sorted me out with the sensor 3 issue. the sensor routes to the brown plug which is near the DPF sensor (black plug), disregard that sensor. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Fabia-2-II-5J-Bj-10-1-6TDi-Exhaust-Gas-Temperature-Sensor-03L906088-BK-/165012194277?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

 

Edited by Cozza89

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.