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New To Detailing


Stokesy

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So i have just purchased an Octavia VRS and want it to look its best, so want to get into detailing

 

I understand the basics, pre wash - snow foam - contact wash with two bucket method and then contamination removal (tar, iron, clay)

 

Its the next bit i am finding a bit baffling.

 

I understand i need to correct the paintwork, but it seems there are so many products for this stage, even from single brands that i dont know what i actually need. I can borrow a machine polisher for this stage, its the products and order i am unsure of.

 

I quite like the look of the Gyeon range, so would probably like to stick to that unless anyone can recommend something better for similar or cheaper price.

 

So as an example, if i were to use Gyeon - Q2M Primer do i then need to use another polish afterwards, or will this give a good enough finish to move to waxing? Will I even need to wax or can I move straight to coating?

 

Also when it comes to coatings, if I were to use GYEON - Q² Can Coat and then use GYEON Q²M - Wet Coat after every wash will this be adequate to maintain the finish?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice

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Hi,

 

If your down south maybe have a look at Stu the detailer. 

Stu does some basic training courses where previously he let you take your car for the work to be done on.  If he still does this you’ll get to use his equipment, learn the basics now and in the process have your car all sorted.  Stu’s prices have always been really competitive so maybe worth looking into.

 

all the best 

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I find it hard these days to recommend anything that’s easier to use with great results other than the Rupes range of machines and pads/polishes. 
when you correct the paint, use a panel wipe to remove any other product used, and then apply the likes of can coat. Job done. 
All above work best avoided in this sort of heat we are seeing at the minute unless indoors and a lot cooler. 

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Walts - Thanks for that, I'l have a look into Stu

 

Undertheradar - I'l have a look at the rupes range. I know about not carrying the work out in direct sunlight and this heat, so that's not a problem.

 

From the amount of stuff I have watched on YouTube I think I have enough knowledge to do it, just some product confusion

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@StokesyQ2M primer is a very mild polish with a bit of SiO2 as I understand it, and VAG paint is very hard so you will not achieve any swirl correction with it, it will clean-up the paint for application of subsequent protection layer and apparently needs 12-24 hours to "cure" the SiO2 in it (note I have NOT used Gyeon products and I'm not very familiar with their system).  If the car isn't new it's likely to have considerable swirling unless it's been washed carefully so if you have access to a DA polisher I'd use a one-step polish then clean up afterwards with an IPA solution or panel wipe; Koch H8.02Scholl S3XXL or Meguiars Ultimate Compound using a nice firm pad (CG Hex Orange, Scholl Spider Blue or Purple)  will give you significant correction but refine down quite well to a nice finish so the paint will be ready for protection products. If the paint isn't looking too bad, something less aggressive such as Scholl S20 Black 1 Step Compound or Sonax EX 04-06 may finish a little better, at the cost of correction ability, and are more suitable for semi-regular application when used with a softer pad.

 

I wouldn't bother with the Q2M primer afterward proper polishing as you'd just be polishing what's already polished (unless Primer is providing some magical foundation layer that makes Can Coat last better), and definitely would not put Q2M primer on before other polishes (they could remove the SiO2 they say primer contains, and a polisher coaster than Primer may diminish the finish you already had). The only thing you may want to do is go on with a glaze (filler heavy polish that will mask remaining defects) like AG SRP before ceramic coating, if the coating is compatible with glazes.

 

When you say "machine" is that a dual-action/random orbit? Rotaries are not recommended for beginners as you can damage paint if used incorrectly.

 

Waxes, sealants etc generally don't bond well to SiO2 "ceramic" coatings like the Gyeon Can Coat you talked about, so don't waste your time topping those with wax or anything other than top-up sprays after a few washes. . As for longevity, even with top ups Can Coat will probably wear off after 6 months. Other products that are similar you could consider and get good write ups are TAC Moonlight, Gtechniq C2v3, Gyeon Wet Coat or Kamikaze Overcoat.

Edited by ckyliu
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Ckyliu - that's perfect! Thankyou

 

Think i have got my head around this now and will look into the products you have mentioned. 

 

Car will be ready for collection on Saturday, so I have plenty of time to order some bits and wait for this weather to pass so its not so hot

 

As for the machine, i dont know what type it is exactly, I will find out before using it.

Edited by Stokesy
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This may be a little late but I though I’d add my 2p!

 

I have used Sonax 04-06 on both my previous Race Blue Octavia VRS and my current Meteor Grey Superb Sportline and it’s been really effective on both. Admittedly, neither was badly swirled, but it corrected and finished really well. I used it on a green Hex Logic pad. 
 

I also use Can Coat and it will last for at least 6 months if maintained well. Gyeon have just released a ceramic QD which will help to maintain it over time. 
 

Good luck with your new car. Don’t forget to post some images to show how you get on!

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Thanks for the info, especially mentioning Meteor Grey, as that is the colour of my VRS

 

Picked the car up yesterday and it is currently drizzling. Seems there is already a half decent level of sheeting / beading so i suspect it may already have had some form of coating

 

Il give it a proper wash when some of the stuff i have ordered turns up and give it a proper inspection.

 

From what i have seen so far the paint looks in really good condition, so hoping i may be able to just wash and protect for starters

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So first wash yesterday. Still waiting for my snow foam lance to come so went as follows:

 

Initial jet wash to remove as much dirt as possible

2 Bucket wash with Gyeon Bathe

Wheels cleaned with Valet Pro Bilberry wheel cleaner

Dry with air blower / drying towel

Inspection - Paint feels smooth to the touch and there are only a couple of places with light swirl marks

Door shuts, Boot shuts, Window rubbers all cleaned with small brush and Bilt Hamber Surfex HD to remove door hinge grease and some slight mossing in the rubbers.

Rinse

Gyeon Wet Coat applied and spread with microfibre cloth

Rinse

 

My initial thoughts from the rain the other day was it already has some form of coating on it, so once the clean was done and i'd rinsed it and noticed the beading was quite good i decided i would leave it until closer to winter before i apply the wax i have bought (Bilt Hamber double speed). 

 

Pictures are at the end as it started raining

octy.jpg

octy 2.jpg

octy 3.jpg

Edited by Stokesy
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