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On 23/07/2021 at 20:31, Thefeliciahacker said:

Get a weber downdraft and you wiil be all set. 

On a serious note there many more knowledgeable people in here for carb aspects

it doesn't worth it as my car reach 125 to 130 km/h and maximum speed according to resources said 145 km/h if lucky reach 160 km/h

i want to make my pierburg 2e3 work well and every thing will be fine

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1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

@captain_crunch

I have just realized that you didn't tell us HOW the low power fault started to occur. The history.

  1. Was the low power issue always present since you have the car?
  2. Was it a sudden drop of power? Any guess what other thing happened prior this issue?
  3. Was it a slow decay of power?

oh i well tell

 yes as the car have low maintince for a while as my parents only was driving it from 1997 to 2014 after that  i begin to drive the  car since 2015  of course didnt know much about car mechanics i face many problems and have not much experince as now

1- lack of power ((1-faulty stage 2 + carbruter was very dirty)  2-wrong valve clerance 3- engine oil need replaced 4- gearbox 10s was broken i dont until now how this happen causing very huge leak in gearbox oil 5- spark plugs need replaced 6- fuel filter need replaced also air filter need replaced

2- have problems  with barke system (1-brake master cylinder  2- all brake pads need replaced 3- brake discs need replaced 4- brake fluid need replaced )

3- have problems with coolant as it was using tap water not coolant fluid this cause a rusty nightmare in coolant system (1- faulty water pump 2- rusty hoses and pipes 3- rusty radiator )

 

at all i solved this problems

1-  1- replaced 2nd stage diphram + clean carbruter 2- make new calibration valve clerance 3- make engine flush and replaced new engine oil 4- replaced gearbox 10s with 14sk 5- replaced spark plugs 6- replaced fuel filter and air filter

2- 1- replaced brake master cylinder 2- replaced all brake pads 3- replaced front brake discs 4- replaced brake fluid)

3- 1- replaced water pump 2- replaced rusty hoses and pipes  3- replaced rusty radiator also flushed the coolant system and put coolant fluid but still there rust i think it will be always forever at all i am i lucky and thx god the orginal headgasket still working well :)

 

Was it a slow decay of power?

not much the most problem in top speed also i have belief the only part that need to be calibrated is carbruter as i say before enrichment valve not working also carbruter need a good clean

 

sorry for long description but this felicia have a lots of memories with me since 1997 i was 5 years old and i consider it one of my family not just a car :inlove:

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1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

933sisC.jpg

14 - yes enrichment valve consider be defictve its not working

16- i think float is working well no fuel flood in carbruter or hard starting the engine

18 -throttle gas open completely

19 - i tested stage 2 diaphram by sucking it worked well

20 - what jets meant not as specified is it mixture screw or (1st stage get and 2nd stage)

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1 hour ago, captain_crunch said:

sorry for long description but this felicia have a lots of memories with me since 1997 i was 5 years old and i consider it one of my family not just a car :inlove:

I respect that. Good description. Now we have a better image of the entire situation. The best thing you did was changing the gearbox.

1 hour ago, captain_crunch said:

i have discovered  that distrbutor advanced not working also its stuck its the orginal distributor can the vaccum advanced affect top speed or just performance ?

In order to get full engine power/peak engine performance/good acceleration, the following prerequisites are mandatory:

  • good fuel delivery
  • good engine breathing (both inlet and exhaust)
  • good ignition and ignition timing
  • good valve timing
  • good compression

Now, to answer your question, a stuck distributor affects directly the ignition timing, hence the combustion, hence top speed and acceleration.

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2 hours ago, RicardoM said:

I respect that. Good description. Now we have a better image of the entire situation. The best thing you did was changing the gearbox.

In order to get full engine power/peak engine performance/good acceleration, the following prerequisites are mandatory:

  • good fuel delivery
  • good engine breathing (both inlet and exhaust)
  • good ignition and ignition timing
  • good valve timing
  • good compression

Now, to answer your question, a stuck distributor affects directly the ignition timing, hence the combustion, hence top speed and acceleration.

i want to install new distrbutor by myself but i want steps to not face any problems

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3 hours ago, captain_crunch said:

i want to install new distrbutor by myself but i want steps to not face any problems

Installation is the exact reverse of the distributor removal.

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5 hours ago, RicardoM said:

Installation is the exact reverse of the distributor removal.

Any tips, I mean other than "even professional mechanics don't always get a new distributor on the right tooth of the drive cam first time"? :) 

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7 hours ago, Agalalh said:

صباح الفل 
لقيت تروستات كوعة 80  فين انا محتاج منها 

 

@Agalalh

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/guidelines/

All posts should be made in English. The use of other languages, or "txt speak" is not permitted and will lead to posts being removed.

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7 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Any tips, I mean other than "even professional mechanics don't always get a new distributor on the right tooth of the drive cam first time"? :) 

You wrongly assume that the distributor for Felicia 1.3 with carburetor is one part that goes to the camshaft. In fact it has 2 parts. A holder, that is removed only when the timing cover is removed, and the distributor per se.

That is why removing the distributor means in fact removing only the top part of it hold in place by a clamp with a screw.

 

c3ecdau.jpg

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1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

A holder, that is removed only when the timing cover is removed, and the distributor per se.

That is an unusual design, with obvious advantages, at least as long as the distributor shaft bearings in the holder never wear.

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7 hours ago, KenONeill said:

That is an unusual design, with obvious advantages, at least as long as the distributor shaft bearings in the holder never wear.

Every distributor has bearings. This one too. There are three bronze bearings that have all lubrication points. The holder has one long bearing lubricated.

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11 hours ago, cheezemonkhai said:

Threads and posts need to be in English, bar one specific regional sub-forum.

 

As such I have hidden the posts that are not in English.

You are of course welcome to repost in English and keeping it in English.

 

Thanks

ok

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2 hours ago, captain_crunch said:

citric acid

dont use any acid,

Step 1 remove upper rad hose from engine side,

Step 2 remove thermostat housing

Step 3 get garden hose and stick it in there open it and let the water run

Step 4 go back and forth one time stick it on the engine the other on the rad hose

Step 5 to clean the block remove lower rad hose and flush it from top to bottom

Step 6 to clean rad flush it from bottom to top

Step 7 close the cooling system add distilled water and drive the car for a day or two, 

Step 8 drain it

Step 9 repeat step 7+8 until water becomes clear.

Step 10 drain distilled water and fill with pre-mixed antifreeze (70% 30%)

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21 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

dont use any acid,

Step 1 remove upper rad hose from engine side,

Step 2 remove thermostat housing

Step 3 get garden hose and stick it in there open it and let the water run

Step 4 go back and forth one time stick it on the engine the other on the rad hose

Step 5 to clean the block remove lower rad hose and flush it from top to bottom

Step 6 to clean rad flush it from bottom to top

Step 7 close the cooling system add distilled water and drive the car for a day or two, 

Step 8 drain it

Step 9 repeat step 7+8 until water becomes clear.

Step 10 drain distilled water and fill with pre-mixed antifreeze (70% 30%)

can you pickup some pictures of hoses to be more clear

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2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

1st upper rad hose

2nd lower rad hose

Inkedbakov-nad-jizerou-czech-republic-13th-sep-2017-skoda-favorit-admirer-K720YE_LI.jpg

InkedH5Ehhqj_LI.jpg

step 3 you mean i stick garden hose  in thermostat housing place in engine itself ?

step 4 dont get it clear ?

step 1 to 6 while engine is off and cold ?

Edited by captain_crunch
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1 hour ago, captain_crunch said:

you mean i stick garden hose  in thermostat housing place in engine itself

Yes after you remove the housing let water flow from the head downwards

 

1 hour ago, captain_crunch said:

step 4 dont get it clear

So you have removed the thermostat housing and you have the upper rad hose free. One time feed water into the head so water will flow out of the upper rad hose the other time feed water to the upper rad hose so water flows out of the head 

 

1 hour ago, captain_crunch said:

step 1 to 6 while engine is off and cold

All steps cold and off only step 8 is more effective with a slightly warm engine right after turning it off (before all the solids sink) 

Edited by Thefeliciahacker
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i made modfication to be able to put 60m thermostat on felicia half of the hermostat housing from favorit and other from felicia as its recommended by @RicardoM but i wonder if this sequence below is right the black lines i will but thermal silicon

number 3 will be silicone with the gasket and second part

228120197_335582048299547_3093132390488577348_n.jpg

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