Hello everyone,

 

I'm picking up a 2017 Fabia this coming weekend and had a few questions.   It's a 1.2 110 DSG in SE spec in Quartz Grey and I think it has (optional?) cruise control and keyless start.  Currently mileage is just under 20,000 and it's going to be used as a runabout for 1-3k miles per year.  

 

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You'll see from my signature that I run two other VAG products and this was an important factor when buying, for familiarity of controls and maintenance.  Having ruled-out an Up-sized car, the main alternative was a Mk5 Polo although I was finding these to be quite poorly cared-for and / or ~2 years older than an equivalent Fabia. 

 

I'm sure you guys love a Fabia (and perhaps I will in time too  ) but this is starting out as a "head over heart" thing!  Either way, I'm aiming to keep this for 5-10 years because of low annual mileage.  I got close to bagging a facelift 2019 1.0 TSI SE-L model for similar money to this car, but it would have been a manual and looked like an ex-hire car anyway.  

 

The car's had two "inspection" services and so I don't think it strictly needs anything other than an overdue brake fluid change.  That said, I really care for my cars and so the mix of budget tyres are being binned and Contis or Michelins fitted.  I've also ordered an OEM boot liner, interior mats, touch-up paint and door sills.  The latter two are to address some chips and scratches.  

 

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Some quick questions:

 

• I've run two 1.4 TFSI Cylinder on Demand engines before and I think this 1.2 TSI is related.  I think Skoda say that the cambelt should be monitored from 5 years onwards, but not necessarily replaced?   
• This car runs the 7-speed DQ200 DSG gearbox I think... I know this has some reported issues, but I'm hoping that these were sorted by 2017.  I presume that it'll need a fluid change at some stage?  
• Can Hold Assist be coded on this car, ideally via Carista?  My S3 has it from the factory and I'd really like it on the Fabia.  
• Have I missed anything or should I consider any other upgrades?  

 

Thanks 

Yes it is from the same family of engines, EA211 I think, so yes the belt needs to be inspected and officially only replaced when showing signs of damage, though I'm planning on getting the belt replaced on my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS round about the 7 > 8 year point as we plan to keep it for 12 > 13 years, mileage at 6 years is only 34K.

 

Hill Hold, it is only Hill Hold Lite, ie it only holds the brakes on for 3 > 5 seconds which is meant to be enough time to move your foot across on a 6MT car, so how much use it will be on a DSG I can't work out. That is something that I always need to remember when driving my wife's Polo as my S4 has proper hill hold - I'd probably say that as that Polo has a mechanical handbrake, I find myself using it to hold the car at junctions etc, the Hill Hold Lite seemed to be a good idea when she first got that car, but I keep finding myself waiting for it to start rolling before fully engaging the drive, maybe so as not to try to force the wheels to rotate against the retaining force of the brakes - doing things the old way means that you can feel the drive being taken up and so release the handbrake in time.

 

Auto lock might not be enabled, I've forgotten if it was from new on that 2015 Polo, "tear drop wipe" - I failed to find out if that can be enabled with rain sensing wipers, it can for ordinary wipers.

 

Edit:- just one other thing, be aware that some engines left the Skoda engine plant with incorrectly torqued (high pressure) fuel rail bolts. I'm not sure if Skoda ever bothered to come clean over what the range of engine numbers were that were passed out while that production issue was "happening" - it will not be very handy to find fuel running out of the front of the engine!

Edited 28 July, 20214 yr by rum4mo

  i have a 2017   SEL 110 estate and had two unexpected repairs in  April of this year; a wheel bearing and a water pump.  I know that I am not the only person to have had a new water pump on a Skoda not even 4 years old and that is  definitely something to think about.    Tyre wear seems better on 15 inch  wheels than on 16 inch;  even with regular  rotation my 16 inch wheels only do 20 thousand on fronts and 28 thousand on rears and there is a limited choice of tyres in the 16 inch size.   i still enjoy my car but it is definitely not as good as my previous car,  a Mark 2 Fabia estate SE 85. There is contradictory advice on the cambelt with some people opting to have it replaced at 5 years old"just in case".  A Skoda dealer will charge you over £500 all inc for changing it.    The car is equally happy in town and on the motorway but fuel consumption is nothing great in town.  Hope these comments help and good luck with your purchase.

I have a Jan 2016 1.2 DSG with just under 16k miles on the clock. I had to replace my tyres (Bridgestone) because they were showing clear signs of old age even though they were well inside the legal limit for tread wear.

I've had no problems with my DSG. I had the fluid changed at 5 years though. I certainly do not intend to change the cambelt at such a low mileage. The belt manufacturers quote a life of 120,000km and trying to find REAL/GENUINE figures about how many TSi engines have been written off through cambelt failure is impossible to find.

I intend to keep mine until as late as possible before replacing it before the new non-electric car sales ban is introduced in 2030. Presuming that I continue to add miles at our current rate, I'm guessing that it won't have done more the 30,000 miles when it is 10 years old, so I'm not wasting money on a new cambelt.

As for the DSG problems reported: I've heard rumours that the fluid being used by VAG was a little too acidic and it slow ate away at the tin on the solder joints inside the Mechatronic unit. The DSG fluid has been reformulated, so that  should be a problem.

Hi @BasilHume just some general comments about running any car at such low mileage (apart from the huge relative costs per mile) you may already be aware of them but in case not.  These mostly relate to any car.  I'm not trying to dishearten you just make you aware - "head over heart".

 

At 20,000 miles it needs whatever service is required for a 4(?) year old model and I'd suggest that's more that two "inspection" services (whatever they are?) and a change of brake fluid is a minimum, brakes are always your number one priority (not the engine or DSG box).  I would be checking the tyres (they are a very important part of braking)  and changing engine oil & filter and air filter too for the engine, don't know about the spark plugs (but plugs do age and can under perform if left long enough or they have faults or damage). 

 

As I'm into "classic cars" (over-priced and over-valued old cars in reality) I know of many cars that do very low annual mileage, some are really more static lumps of metal, and low mileage causes many issues more so in many areas than high mileage.

 

The servicing and maintenance requirements proportionately with be greater not less because of the low mileage particularly if the low mileage is made up of lots of very short journeys as this will be very wearing on the engine, starter system and battery, wearing on clutch and gears, possibly brakes.

 

Tyres, which effect the braking, steering, suspension, road holding, handling comfort and noise can go hard through lack of use and age so need changing regardless of tread depth left on them.  I've just change my set of four on my 'classic' car after about 6 years and 20,000 miles and I should have changed them at least a year earlier normally, loads of tread left on them but they were hard and cracked and horrible to drive on, mind my car sits outside 365/6 days a year.

 

The fluids like engine oil and filter will need changing at least once a year as short trips don't allow the oil to fully warm and it gets contaminated and you want good quality oil as it working under more not less arduous conditions to protect your engine.

 

The coolant (antifreeze) also wants to be changed at the time interval, normally it's checked for its antifreeze but this doesn't cover it's its other additive lubricant properties and as with the engine oil changing it will also remove containments in it which will help to keep things a bit cleaner internally and stop the debris causing additional wear.

 

The transmission oil needs to be changed at the time intervals as a minimum, I'd do it more often than that as again the oil does lose it's efficiency over time and use and again you will be remove contaminants and you can check for what debris comes out (even have it analysed for what's in it for wear or issue if you want).

 

I've already put about sparkplugs but other items can deteriorate with age regardless of use, in fact the lack of use can cause accelerated deterioration. 

 

The car battery will need maintaining (changing) otherwise it could cause all sorts of issues and on modern cars cause the computers and their programs to get very upset and throw wobbles.  You would also included checking the batteries in both keyfobs (use keyfobs alternately if you can that way you know where they are and that they work) and synchronising them with the car at car or keyfob battery changes or disconnections.

 

If the car is to be not used for many weeks or months on end then you'd want to research what is done for storage - that's another ball game.

 

Sorry if I banged your head but at least I didn't kick your heart. 

 

A photo of your car. -

 

Edited 28 July, 20214 yr by nta16
speeling and stuff

The DQ200 DSG has no service schedule/ recommended oil change interval or even a need to change either of the 2 oils.  Leave well alone if all is well.  Do not have anyone mess with it unless they have all the gear and more than ideas.     People do change their oil but then they have reason to.  Best let sleeping dogs lay.

 

Prices are ridiculous, best find a good Independent and get work done not just ticked off and lots of up-selling attempts.

Edited 28 July, 20214 yr by e-Roottoot

The chart clearly shows DSG oil change at years 4 and 8. 

It does.

  Clearly but not clear enough that is 6 or 7 Speed Wet Clutch DSG's like DQ250 or DQ380's with 40,000 mile oil change intervals or DQ381's and 80,000 mile.

 

But here we are looking at a DQ200.

 

 

Edited 28 July, 20214 yr by e-Roottoot

I was going to delete this after TerFar's post but seeing e-Roottoot's latest post I've revived it.

 

If there are 40,000 and 80,000 miles oil change intervals are there also time interval alternatives too?

 

ETA: From the chart above it will be very interesting to see if that "No service interval" changes in the future.  As I put changing the oil gives the chance to check the oil that comes out, if only visually and rubbing it between (gloved) fingers to to tell you what condition its in and possibly tell you how things might be going with the box especially if you analyse the oil for what's in it (not expensive nowadays and can be done from home).

 

I've no idea how easy or difficult it is to change the oil(s) on these DSG but if it could be done I'd do it.  ETA: But others may think I'm wasting my time and that's fine as they may be correct and different people have different views.

 

Seen this 'sealed for life', doesn't need changing gearbox oil stuff before, in fact the Ford (type 9) gearbox in my car was without drain plug but it's gear changing can be improved (but not speeded up) by changing the oil and to better oil.  That gearbox could be 37 years old for all I know and I've no evidence it's ever been reconditioned in that time.

 

The gearbox and rear axle on Midget never had recommended oil changes but both benefit from occasional oil changes, yet the similar gearbox on the MGB had 24-months or 24,000 miles whichever was sooner (soonest?).  Gearboxes, same as engines, have lots  more bits added to them now but they still basically bits of metal tuning in a bit of oil, cars are very ancient technologies with lots of electric, electronic, computers and programs on them to squeeze out the last drop of possible efficiency from their ancientness.

 

In ancient times if you had something like an old Ford you could just run it and never do more than add petrol and oil as required and just see how long it'd last with that neglect and it'd often be a very long time but the computers on modern cars wouldn't be happy with their readings doing that now, plus you'd probably never pass the MoT now, unless it's  done over the phone.  

 

Edited 28 July, 20214 yr by nta16
ETA:

The thread is here on the Famous DQ200 DSG Clutch Slip & i think page 11 shows the Oil Change.

 

The DQ200 DSG World Wide Recall on 2012 had 2009-2012 DQ200s get the Synthetic Oil changed from Synthetic to Mineral and a Software Update.

Thousands still run the Synthetic or the Mineral.  2014 Europe got this as a Service Campaign.

Then there was the Software Update on ones from 2013-2015,  then the TPI's that the aforementioned thread covers.

 

Millions of DQ200's from 2012 are running the Factory Filled Oil, because that is perfectly fine.

If you want you can change the Oil, both oils.   VW Group do not make a recommendation to.

 

If giving advice on certain service items best get familiar with them. Too many in VW Group Branches are not.

 

Millions of DQ200 built on since 2009 for application in over 50 vehicles and millions of DQ200 recalled and tens of thousands of failures and VW Group have never changed the 'No Service Interval'.

In 2012 they did increase the Warranty in Countries the courts / Government Agency would tear them a new hole to 100,000 miles / ten years.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/315115-service-campaign-dq200-dsg-oil-changeecu-update-fabias-in-uk

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/425424-2017-another-dq200-7-speed-dsg-service-campaign

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/473213-another-dsg-recall-today-sorry-if-already-posted

 

Edited 28 July, 20214 yr by e-Roottoot

Wow - now that's a comprehensive set of replies! Thank you to everyone.

 

I'm sorry for my opening tone about this Fabia... I'm sure it'll be great and that it will be very much loved, as evidenced by my no-expense-spared approach with accessories, tyres etc. 

 

We've run our 2013 VW Transporter for some 6 years as our main vehicle, with a hatchback alongside for my business miles and urban use. My parents now need care visits, plus my wife's and our kids' activities are burgeoning... and we live right on the edge of an upcoming clean air charging zone.  So, the van is being retired to leisure use and the Fabia will be used for most of these new needs. I should mention that, despite giving the order to buy it, my wife doesn't really drive the van anyway! 

 

It'll get used 2-3 times per week for 5-10 miles a time minimum, so of course it's an expensive mobility solution. With crumbly parents, though, the flexibility could be priceless. 

 

I've checked this new Fabia's history on Erwin and those two services have covered the basic "longlife" criteria, though I'll of course switch to annual servicing now. Food for thought on the gearbox oil and cambelt... I'll probably wait and see how we use this car. 

At that sort of mileage you definitely want to keep on top of the car battery unless you like looking up error codes.

 

If you're only going to keep it 5 years you could worry about little else (or risk it) and do the minimum but if you want to go to 10 years I'd look at doing more of what I've put before.  Better quality oils cost not a lot more, 'Long Life' is just another marketing term I'd ask an oil blender what they'd suggest, I use Millers and you can actually talk to them or email them and get an answer, a range of oils could do the job from each blender.

 

A car sitting can pick up muck, I can guarantee you of that from nearly 40 years experience, less so if you're lucky enough to have a garage for it and less so if also covered or Carcoon'd/filtered so don't neglect regular air filter changes for the engine, cabin too if you care about the occupants.

 

If at 5 years later you decide to go for 10 years ownership as the car will be 9(?) years old personally I'd think about that DSG oil change or see what Skoda/VAG say about it then.

 

I've no idea what these "inspection" services are but ours has a file of tickbox bits of paper from the services done and contain "errors" suggesting the boxes were ticked distance from any work that was done, on a car I'm buying I'd at least expect an engine oil and filter change (despite this being one of the least important components on the car).

 

Do yourself a big favour and actually read and refer to the 'Operators Manual' as it can save you a lot of time and hassle.

 

And there are these kooky videos, simple stuff but handy and one saved me a lot of hassle with information that 'the internet' search had my head spinning and it's not in the 'Operator's Manual' (I won't say what it was though) and no it's not me. - 

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

 

For the 1.2 TSI any oil from any manufacturer to VW 504 00 will do for fixed or variable service intervals.

That will be 5w 30 Full Synthetic Long Life.  / 5w 30 FS III.    You can use 0w 30 FS III is you want.

 

For Fixed Services you can use VW502 00,  so that is 5w 40 FS.   Not Long life oil, but maybe better for a longer lived TSI.

 

From ASDA / Tesco, Comma or any oil will do, as will Fuchs / Quantum or others.

 

There is enough cleaners / detergents in the oil and in the unleaded these days.  Maybe even too much. 

Soon we will be on e10 petrol in the UK unless buying Super Unleaded.

@e-Roottoot does DQ200 have a 100,000 miles / ten years warranty in the UK?

 

No.  VW wag the UK' / EU Governments tail.

3 Years Manufacturers, and you can get the 2 years extended, or buy the 'Approved Warranty'.   But there are those with the Skoda Extended Warranty in Mk2 Fabia with DQ200 DSG that have had claims knocked back.    They sell the Warranty then say 'Known Issues'   Known by them. 

 

The Oil change makes no difference to maybe needing Clutch Packs replaced and MCU's still fail or the Accumulator.

There are repair kits available now, but still Dealership employees saying a new Mechatronic Control Unit required when it might not be.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/495945-dsg-gearbox

 

Edited 28 July, 20214 yr by e-Roottoot

Yes the UK ain't the USA, so it's swings and roundabouts for car manufacturers with making good the faults they pretend not to know about.

 

I wasn't thinking of oil change to stop or prevent any design or build quality faults just as good running practice, sometimes it can help a little too with some problems but not miracles.  So this DSG was it designed by the high quality German engineers then, I remember Audis and others with it a while back.

 

I've learnt not to debate 'oil beliefs' but I will say with ethanol, and bear in mind I've been running over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics" for over 30 years, that this is the same as when unleaded petrol came in, I was told it'd ruin my engine, and my teeth and steal looks.  The engines were fine, and I still have my teeth and looks.  

Oh dear.  

 

The Fabia was due to be delivered to me tomorrow, but the supplying dealer rang this evening with some bad news.  They were very apologetic that the car has sustained some cosmetic damage to the rear bumper while in transit - they'll update me on Monday once the bodyshop has viewed it.

 

The rear bumper already had a couple of imperfections and I'm realistic that even brand new cars get the odd repair before delivery, but this is disappointing nonetheless.  (Not least because my S3 will now be pressed into service with my wife, ferrying kids and their friends to activities... which always makes me wince!) :( 

Possibly good news then as there were already some imperfections (just using that word might suggest you have higher cosmetic standards than me)  and if their bodyshop does the work it'll possibly/probably be they do the whole bumper.

 

If it was me I'd have gone to look at it and if it was just a small paint scape (on a plastic part that won't rust) I'd have worked out the cost of a chipsaway (knowing the garage pay less for the same work from them) and asked for that retail cost as money off or asked for some added extras of similar (but higher) value knowing that dealers have high profit margins on some extras.

 

All non-rusting damage can wait until you sell the car as often you pick up other dinks and it's more effective to do all at once usually.

 

My wife got a dent in her car once and I said to leave it as she had to use public car parks at work, where this dent came from.  18 months later whilst she was having service work done the dealership offered her a good price to carry out the repair (£500 IIRC, it was on a large rear steel panel), they must have been short of work in their bodyshop.  I said it was a good price as long as the work was done properly but I bet the panel would have another dink in it within a week of the repair.  The day she collected the car in the morning she got a small dink in the panel that afternoon.  I had to laugh (out of sight).  

 

Edited 31 July, 20214 yr by nta16
speeling and stuff

I'm afraid I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to my possessions... Not in an obviously OCD way, but I do look after my stuff - probably because I lost all my worldly possessions in a house fire when I was 12. 

 

I'd certainly repair a bumper scrape on a £9k 2017 car.  (Or indeed alloy wheel scuffs, which are a common occurrence on my S3 due to a combination of my wife and huge kerbstones outside our house). But overall this Fabia will be prone to damage due to urban use and I am hoping therefore hoping to let go of usual standards with this one! 

Sorry to hear that, something like that will have a long lasting effect.  There's nothing wrong with looking after things as long as it doesn't go too far otherwise you're worrying too much about things in life that are relatively unimportant really, and that's any lump of metal, at any monetary value.

 

I was going to put a rant about modern cars with oversized wheels and tyres that are often far too low profile for their need and the state of the roads but instead I'll put it's not all your wife's fault but I bet she cares a lot less about scuffing the wheels than you and possibly better for it (unless the damage is a lot more than wheel scuffs).

 

I bought my car as the paintwork on it wasn't particular good and the colour was boring so I wouldn't worry if I got the odd dink as my previous version had particularly good paintwork being a new bodyshell but I found I was beginning to get a bit over fussy and worried about where I parked it. The best thing I done was when I swapped the shiny new bumpers to a set of original bumpers of a different sort I didn't have them re-chromed (apart from the high cost at the time, much higher cost now) I left them dull and with a dink in one of the overriders.  But I still worried about the paintwork which one of the reasons I got my present car and liked plastic cars as you can deal with scratches at your leisure.

 

My neighbour had two new RS4 estates in a row, after an incident he started to worry too much about the second one so I suggested as he used it so little, and never in the way it was designed, and couldn't get all his fishing gear in, which was his real interest, that he change it for another vehicle, merely affirming what he was thinking.  He did and said he felt so much better after it went.  He got a more suitable vehicle but still uses that very little but at least he can get his all fishing gear in.  His place and vehicle are kept very smart, he washes the vehicles himself even though he had vouchers for free dealer valeting.

    

The car has been with us a few days now and I'm pretty pleased with it.

 

Actually getting it from the seller involved a few more hiccups.  Through a combination of being polite and persistent, I did manage to get next year's MoT & service on the house (delays) and a £100 refund (missing the keyless start option it was listed with, which I don't care about).  The car's cosmetic condition is pretty good.  Probably never waxed and with a few blemishes, but it came up nicely with a bit of attention. 

 

I'll need to watch some pretty severe (for 19k miles) driver's side bolster wear though, because this is looking pretty thin.  I've also ordered some door sill covers to go over some pretty harsh wear to the metal door sills in places.  

 

The 1.2 TSI and 7-speed DSG seem pretty characterful and smooth respectively.  I've tried to "reset" the DSG with the old trick of turning the ignition and then holding my foot on the accelerator as its a little jerky in some situations and I definitely miss my S3's Hold Assist and electronic handbrake.  Strangely, it seems more sensitive on take-off than my S3.  It's only been driven locally, which is of course going to be its main use, though I'm sure it'd be fine for longer runs.  

 

Overall, it seems like a good car and matched well to its intended use.  I've done a couple of runs with us as a family of four and there's plenty of room, it's easy to park and there are some good practical features.  I just need to decide whether to replace those mixed budget tyres now (2x Landsail up front, 1x Nexen & 1x Autogrip rear). 

Glad you like it, roomiest interior in its class my mate told me, and he'd know as he's 18-stone summer weight.  Which bring me on to bolster wear and door sill scuffs, perhaps someone large or possibly small but never move the seat back before getting out or in the car.

 

I'm only 5' 5" but need the driver's seat fully back to get in, particularly as my wife is only 5 foot and has the seat fully raised and I have it fully lowered.

 

I don't think you'll miss keyless.  Personally I'd always prefer a keyblade entry, not even remote.  Saves having to checking the batteries in both keyfobs (use keyfobs alternately if you can that way you know where they are and that they work) and synchronising them with the car at car or keyfob battery changes or disconnections.

 

On 28/07/2021 at 13:07, nta16 said:

Tyres, which effect the braking, steering, suspension, road holding, handling comfort and noise can go hard through lack of use and age so need changing regardless of tread depth left on them. 

Mild rebuking now, you're concerned about cosmetic but neglect an important (and complex and often overlooked) critical car component, at an absolute minimum get the two rear tyres renewed.  Often best to have all four tyres to be the same make model and age particularly if you rotate their positions on the car at intervals.  I've no idea how good Landsail are, Nexen blue HD (and HD pus) are alright, currently we have Nexen blue HD Plus on the front (a distress purchase) and Avon ZT7 (British company) on the rear but no idea until we get the other two how good they are really, seem fine.  The Fabia, SE spec at least, isn't the best handling car if you're in a hurry so you want decent tyres.

 

Having put that I run the tyres on ours at Eco setting but does make a big difference to the rolling resistance so you don't always have to push the accelerator as much and can lift off the accelerator early which helps mpg and perhaps charging the very fussy and invasive stop/start battery management systems.  If by this you find yourself braking harder then you're not made the most of it and should perhaps go back to normal pressure and regain a little grip and be pushing on a bit more.

 

Pulling away seems to get those new to the car, but isn't that the same with all vehicles you're not used to, some seem to think you need more revs to pull off than you actually do, often I just lift the clutch at engine revs before touching accelerator pedal (but I'm used to pulling a coke cable).

 

Enjoy your new purchase.

 

Thank you! I agree replacement of the tyres is a top priority. Replacing the legal but mixed rears needs to be done - it's just a shame that the dealer put rubbish tyres up front: they look brand new. Looks like a set of 4 is needed as I mentioned at the beginning. 

The better tyres should really be at the rear anyway.  Not this model but some cars could have problems with different tyres and at big differences in wear, the computers wouldn't like it and they are the masters!

 

When I asked a dealership about putting new tyres on a performance vehicle as they were at just about 3mm they said if they'd been below 3mm they would have but that I could probably get the tyres for less than the cost to the sales department and the way these businesses are set up I believed him so your dealer just got what he could for lowest cost.

 

I think the Nexen are common as new so possibly like us one tyre might have got a puncture or been damaged so replaced (I replaced with two tyres for balance and even wear) and the other two just wore low, front tyres wear much faster, perhaps suggesting the tyres weren't rotated.  Some don't believe in it, some don't know, some don't care.

 

If you ever do rotate the tyres get the screw-in positioning/locating studs, two for each wheel, I did after hurting my back lifting the wheel 12 off the ground and it slipped off the tiny centre hub lip - German engineering!!  What's up with wheel nuts.  I still get trouble from this.

 

Many with front wheel drive still want the best tyres on the front so that they can steer, brake, accelerate and basically get grip.

 

They do not want crap tyres on the rear, so basically do not have crap tyres on the rear, fit good tyres,  but as long as the ESP is doing its thing and the back end is not coming around and overtaking the front they are happy and feel safe.

It does help your driving lots if you can control the front and not just go sliding straight on when you are trying to get around corners.

 

Moving mis-shaped used rears to the front and putting the best tyres to the rear is not that 'simply clever',

 

Loads of links to what the experts say and videos etc on best or new tyres to the rear are all over this forum and many others.

Edited 7 August, 20214 yr by e-Roottoot