Hello all,

 

I am getting a few parts for the 1.2 htp AZQ petrol fabia 6y2. 

 

I have ordered this from eBay; 273790090994

 

As well as a top strut mount and a coil since mine snapped!  

 

The Chap has asked if my car has power steering. Which I confirmed. Then he asked what type of rack ends I'd need, which I am not sure of. 

 

He said something about steering rack made by SMI-Koyo which could have meant SMI or Koyo? I'm not well versed in this at the moment. 

 

If anyone had a clue I'd appreciate the help. 

 

Many thanks! 

there are two racks on the fabias,ibiza, polo

 

KOYO ones and TRW

 

I might be wrong but i think most that are not within first few years of production will be TRW.

Best thing you can do is get under it and look for a part number/brand  on the rack

 

Maybe there is other ways of knowing. I think the track rod inner joints are different but not like you can see that until you have it in bits

Usually the chassis from 6Y-3-731255 are TRW units.

If you want to PM me your reg number, I can get the genuine part number from the dealers for you.

I'd certainly suggest taking @MATT0693 up on his offer, but on TRW systems the cap has TRW written on it, and I think with your engine, it'll be visible without any disassembly.

 

As Wino says, check the cap. My 1.2 has the cap exposed and I imagine yours will too.

Hey,

 

Thanks so much for the help, it's exactly as you said.

 

Thanks!

Just got the parts today and had them fitted. Dropped off at garage at 2pm and collected at around 4:30 was charged £150 for labour. 

 

I need to get the car tracked and wanted to know what that process really is. 

 

Also, knocking and groaning from steering at low speeds and when parking up, since I just changed the following; see photo attached 

Listed; 2X FRONT SUSPENSION CONTROL ARM / WISHBONE LEFT AND RIGHT

2X FRONT OUTER BUSH LEFT AND RIGHT

2X FRONT TIE ROD END OUTER LEFT AND RIGHT

2X FRONT TIE ROD JOINT / INNER LEFT AND RIGHT

 

It also does still knock when I'm going over rough roads and that is getting really unpleasant, and im sure the vibrations aren't good for anyone. 

 

Any advice or pointers would be grand! 

 

I would take it for tracking but I feel like something else needs changing before I do that so just wanting to get everything out of the way.

 

 

So I done some digging on the net and the rumbling could be the gearbox mount under the engine, will try lift and double check today. 

 

Also am going to double check my stabiliser links and what not since I don't think they've been changed yet. 

 

The gearbox mount It seems like I could do with a No16 socket and I have a torque wrench if it's really necessary. 

 

I need to get the tracking done but I wanted to sort the stabiliser links first before I do that...

 

 

Here is a screenshot of what I wanted to pickup. 

 

Please advise if it's overkill or better to change it all. 

It's perfect, change it all.

In my experience the knocking on my Fabia came from tired anti-roll bar bushes, but it can just as easily be the anti-roll bar links too and it's sometimes not obvious.  If it's creaking, especially when turning the wheel when stationary or moving very slowly, it's possible it's the strut top mount bearings (as is the case with mine currently).

 

For the limited cost, especially if you are doing the job yourself, it's worth doing them all at once.

 

I made the mistake of leaving these items when I changed my rear console bushes for solid polyurethane replacements (I had to remove the consoles which the anti-roll bar is clamped to).  I ended up changing the anti-roll bar bushes 6 months later and it was more unnecessary hassle and it's a pig of a job 😡

 

A note on those kits from Febi Bilstein - I checked and double checked the part number on their website against my PR codes before ordering but the kit was still sent out with bushes that were too large in diameter for my anti-roll bar..  Golden rule is to check the size of your anti-roll bar first with either a spanner that fits or micrometer.

 

In my case (2006 1.2 HTP) the anti-roll bar was roughly 19mm so I went and purchased two 17mm bushes from my local parts place and although they were a tight fit and involved the use of various levers to get the clasp on and then lots of levering to get the threads aligned with the retaining bolts, it's now rock solid.  I have seen it suggested elsewhere that you should go with 2mm less than your bar for a snug fit.

 

I refitted the original clamps and bolts as there was no thread damage or cracks on mine (these fit all sizes of bushes).

 

Something else to be aware of is that earlier versions of the anti-roll bar had plastic retainers on the bar to stop it moving horizontally within the bushes.  In later vehicles (like mine thankfully) the retainer is metal and forms part of the bar.  It's common on the earlier ones for the plastic retainers to crack and then cause issues with the bar shifting between the clamped bushes.  I'm not sure when the anti-roll bars changed but I would hope that as yours is a 2004 model it would not be affected.  I you have an earlier version I have heard of a work around using special clamps that can be retrofitted to the bar, but more often than not people change the bar itself to the upgraded version.

 

For anyone that's going with polyurethane bushes in this application, I think you need to match the diameter of the anti-roll bar to the diameter of the void in the bush.  So for my size of bar I would have chosen 19mm bushes.

 

Just on solid rear console bushes - don't bother unless you are building or running a performance vehicle.  I purchased them on the ignorance of longevity and "ease of fit".  In reality the job was a nightmare and required a press to get the damn things in the console, as being solid they can't compress like a standard rubber one!

 

If I was to do the job again I would go with Meyle HD bushes as I have heard good things about them and they are also cheaper than polyurethane.  My originals had lasted 80k miles so I doubt I would have needed to change them again.  Meyle's anti-roll bar links are also meant to be a bit heavier duty than other replacements and are worth checking out.

 

I agree that it's a good idea to change what you can before getting the tracking done 👍🏼

Edited 15 October, 20214 yr by dandare1980
To add more content.

These are also excellent value anti-roll bar links.

1 minute ago, dandare1980 said:

These are also excellent value anti-roll bar links.

 

I wouldn't use unbranded links because they usually only last long enough to pass an MOT, Fabias EAT the damned things unless you fit decent quality, most of us in the know fit Meyle HD links if you're planning on keeping the car but Febi are good enough.

@SpotnikHTP04, one bit of advice for the future, from me is, never ever just replace a front spring and top mounting, there is a bearing up there as well - and you don't want to need to pay someone to take things apart in a few months times just because that bearing now needs replacing.  Though when a front spring breaks near/at the top end, the bearing usually falls apart so the decision gets made for you.

@Rum4mo, 

 

thanks, I’ve been rushing replies and not including everything. But rest assured I have changed the bearing too! 
 

I have my old parts I’ll take some photos and show you guys how bad they were! 
 

Now I’ve got the stabilisers, I’ve seen where they are and I’m sure I could fit them myself if I can find a no16 spanner. Which they never include in the sets… 

 

also my engine mgmt light came on immediately after an oil change. The dude reset it but it’s come up again. My engine is running rough, maybe an overfill? But let’s get to that once I’ve sorted the suspension out. 

 

 

also thanks all for the responses I’ve read them all, the Meyle links do look good but I went with Febi as I have for pretty much every suspension part this year. They did look bloody strong though. 
 

Extra thanks to the guys that really took time to explain. I have read through it all. 

Fitted Anti Roll Bars/ Stabilisers. 
 

Very simple job when you realise you can use the weight of the car to get the bars out. 
 

Passenger side took me 1hr, driver side 20m. 
 

torqued to 40nm and it sounds so much better now. 
 

Now I think my strut mount bearing in the driver side is groaning when I’m turning (0-10mph) so hopefully I can sort that out soon before it breaks the coil again.