Hello everyone..again.
I have a problem with the electric trunk. As I mentioned earlier, it will not open completely just like 1/3. 
Sometimes he opens it but not much of the time.
Here's vcds log about diagnostics. 
I tried to find out which side was wrong.
Can you help me with this? What is a part number i need change, or somethink? Because im f**ked off with this..
Thank you guys.
 

Address 6D: Trunk Elect.       Labels: 7N0-959-107.clb
Control Module Part Number: 5E0 959 107 A    HW: 5E0 959 107 
  Component and/or Version: HDSG-Modul    H01 0746
           Software Coding: 1233074003
            Work Shop Code: WSC 73430 790 00000
              ASAM Dataset: EV_HDSGSk462 301136 (SK37)
                       ROD: EV_HDSGSk462.rod
                      VCID: 2A5BB7AF4DFF20D47C-807E
2 Faults Found:

0019 - Hall Sensors in Motor 2 for Rear Lid 
          B120A 02 [137] - Signal Failure
          MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 3
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 220
                    Mileage: 199298 km
                    Date: 2021.11.14
                    Time: 13:19:53

                    Voltage terminal 30: 11.23 V

0128 - Closing Assistance Closed 
          B113E F1 [008] - Implausible Signal
          Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 5
                    Mileage: 199298 km
                    Date: 2021.11.14
                    Time: 13:06:14

                    Voltage terminal 30: 11.72 V

Edited 14 November, 20214 yr by homelessdrop

So it looks like the hall or position sensors are reporting a fault. Whether Motor 2 is left or right hand side, I have no idea. This will take a diagram to figure out. @SashaGrace could you comment on the above pls? I think that Motor2's hall sensor is reporting a implausible signal which is then freaking out the close detection system. The motor basically doesn't know where it is.

 

Once school of thought is if you could try and recalibrate the sensor first. Knowing VAG, it will involve a volcun three fingered button press whilst singing the German/Czech national anthem. There will be a recalibration button press function. Try reading the manual. If no good, it's dealer time.

Oh god.. thanks mate. Maybe someone else? Some experience? 

Just an observation that probably does not relate to your problem. My trunk opened once by 1/3rd, I gently pushed it up to the full height and then pressed the close button. It has worked correctly since (hopefully not jinxed it by saying this !)

Thanks to experience but i try all of this.. pushed up to the full height and long press to close button, that's "save" the new max open location.. but nothing.

 

Motor Hall sensors need replacing then in that case. 

23 hours ago, varaderoguy said:

Motor Hall sensors need replacing then in that case. 

Can you maybe help me search number of this component please?

bump 

Number 2 is the right hand side one, you need to replace the strut like for like. I bodged mine by taking the hall sensor signal from the left side lol but that was with a new loom I made, you should swap the strut.

2 minutes ago, SashaGrace said:

Number 2 is the right hand side one, you need to replace the strut like for like. I bodged mine by taking the hall sensor signal from the left side lol but that was with a new loom I made, you should swap the strut.

Oh jesus, thank you so much.. 
But I have one stupid question.. right hand side from front or rear side?
So it's p&p change to brand new one right? I askin just because it is 366€/side..

1 hour ago, homelessdrop said:

Oh jesus, thank you so much.. 
But I have one stupid question.. right hand side from front or rear side?
So it's p&p change to brand new one right? I askin just because it is 366€/side..

From the rear. You can get a used one for much less, will work just fine

5 hours ago, SashaGrace said:

From the rear. You can get a used one for much less, will work just fine

Thank you so much! Very useful for me.  

My tailgate on 2015 octavia scout had been playing up, in what sounds like the same way. It often only opens by about 30cm before stopping. It's the same if I use the remote, the dash button or the tailgate button. Works about half the time.
 

First I replaced the struts (which I think is suggested above). No change.
 

Now I have replaced the latch on the sill. No change, but I can now see a related fact: when it opens correctly the powered "close it tight" latch moves immediately as the hatch starts to open.

When it fails, this "close it tight" latch opens after a delay or not at all.

see the videos for one good (https://youtu.be/8ARv9X4-zNk)  and bad scenario https://youtu.be/OcXeAglfhNk.

So I'm now thinking that it's either a computer, or sensor or relay problem. I can hear a relay in the left test panel, but have not yet pulled the panel off to investigate.

Any thoughts or similar experience and solution?

3 hours ago, ISKIDA said:

My tailgate on 2015 octavia scout had been playing up, in what sounds like the same way. It often only opens by about 30cm before stopping. It's the same if I use the remote, the dash button or the tailgate button. Works about half the time.
 

First I replaced the struts (which I think is suggested above). No change.
 

Now I have replaced the latch on the sill. No change, but I can now see a related fact: when it opens correctly the powered "close it tight" latch moves immediately as the hatch starts to open.

When it fails, this "close it tight" latch opens after a delay or not at all.

see the videos for one good (https://youtu.be/8ARv9X4-zNk)  and bad scenario https://youtu.be/OcXeAglfhNk.

So I'm now thinking that it's either a computer, or sensor or relay problem. I can hear a relay in the left test panel, but have not yet pulled the panel off to investigate.

Any thoughts or similar experience and solution?

Oooh that’s new for me.. good to know. 

I gonna check this maybe not now because outdoor weather is so much cold (haha) but latter for sure. Thanks to posting it. Good luck to fix this dude. 

 

On 24/01/2022 at 03:56, ISKIDA said:

My tailgate on 2015 octavia scout had been playing up, in what sounds like the same way. It often only opens by about 30cm before stopping. It's the same if I use the remote, the dash button or the tailgate button. Works about half the time.
 

First I replaced the struts (which I think is suggested above). No change.
 

Now I have replaced the latch on the sill. No change, but I can now see a related fact: when it opens correctly the powered "close it tight" latch moves immediately as the hatch starts to open.

When it fails, this "close it tight" latch opens after a delay or not at all.

see the videos for one good (https://youtu.be/8ARv9X4-zNk)  and bad scenario https://youtu.be/OcXeAglfhNk.

So I'm now thinking that it's either a computer, or sensor or relay problem. I can hear a relay in the left test panel, but have not yet pulled the panel off to investigate.

Any thoughts or similar experience and solution?

Hi

 

What was the solution to this? I have the same issue wih my 2018 octavia. 

Hi guys, i hada similar issue with my trunk opening only 1/3 of the way. 

I had replaced my struts as they weren't lifting up. (Confirmed fault codes for right hand strut) so replaced both as I don't like doing one side only to have the other go a short time later. 

I then fitted new struts and noticed 70% of the time the trunk lid would only open 1/3 of the way.  

I noticed I was getting "6d trunk lid module" fault code. "No basic settings" B201000" 

T

For The 2 settings one was "zero inclination angle" and the other "adapt flap opening angle." 

For adapt flap opening angle, Every time a hit the "adjust", nothing happened. So i then tapped "adjust" and with the trunk closed, I tapped the open button.

I could tell it was in learning mode as the audible sound was different. But when it got to the top it would make the fault sound and i couldnt close it with down button. Had to manually move it down and close.

(This was all done on level ground; at least I thought it was level enough.) I then found perfect level ground and carried out the same request. 

Hit adjust on scanner. Then tap open button on trunk lid, (again audible sound confirmed it was in learning mode). It Got to the top with no fault sound. Hit the close button and this time it closed with learning sound. Once the trunk lid shut the scanner said adaption finished. 

I then went into setting "zero inclination angle" and it also said adaption finished. 

 

I was then able to clear fault code for basic settings and what do you know. The trunk opens perfectly now. 

 

(Apologies I never took screen shots. Was in to much of a hurry to get it fixed.) 

 

 

I finally gave up and replaced the struts with plain gas struts. Easy job, but you need to disconnect the boot latch on the body side and connect +12 to PINS 1 and 2 with pull the hasp back to the fully locked position. Then the boot lit will close full and not rattle.

Hi guys, sorry to resurrect this thread, but.

I have the same problem. I don't think it's a problem in the actuators, though, but in the wiring.

The reason is, for years i had intermittent problems about the left stop light faulty, whereas the light was working fine. From time to time the trunk would fail to open at random positions, and report problems to the left motor, and now the trunk module reports a fault in the left hall sensor. Also the rear wiper would stop mid way.

See where i'm getting at?

I'm suspecting a fault in the wiring for the left side electronics. Any idea how i could identify it?

Edited 14 April, 20251 yr by Jack_M

I have problem

octavia mk3 electric trunk

new struts and locking motor

basic settings are missing -> fault code b201000 no basic setting 6d

I have OBD11 with pro licence.

Making basic settings is very passive, no progress.

How to proceed?

Here is my story for this electric trunk problem. Car is Combi version if it makes any difference.

Symptoms were similar what others have described in this thread. Trunk lid opened only about 30 cm. Closing the lid from close button worked fine except the final latching did not happened. In addition luggage compartment lights did not came on when opening the trunk lid.

Root cause was a faulty cable connection in the trunk lid wiring loom. Inside the wiring loom there is a soldered cable connection which was badly oxidized. In practise, cables were disconnected. If you have a multimeter it helps to check if you have the same problem. Remember to disconnect battery before measurements and possible soldering.

There are few coupling connectors inside the lid on the left side. T5d (brown) is important in this case.

There should be a connection between T5d pin 5 and latching motor connector T4c pin 1. Cable color at both ends brown/blue.

Also, there should be a connection between trunk lid closing button connector T4aj pin 4 and T5d pin 5. Cable color at both ends brown/blue.

You can also measure resistance between trunk lid closing button T4aj pin 4 and latching motor connector T4c pin1. Cable color at both ends brown/blue.

Resistance measurement in all cases should be 0 ohms or close to that. If not, then cable connection inside the wiring loom is broken.

Cable connection is few tens of centimeters from T5d connector. You'll find it when removing the tape around the wiring loom. Connection itself has also tape around it.

Make a new clean connection and problem solved.

Then about the closing motor fault codes. Probably broken cables inside the rubber tube. I checked cables on both sides. One cable already broken few cables where insulation broken. Difficult to fix.