How much time do you warm-up your Felicia?

[D.FYLAKTOS]

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

 

 

The video from last night has the revs jumping just after initial starting, is that the car or you on the accelerator pedal?

 

I didn't touched the pedal, the rev jumped to 1100 and stayed there for 3+ minutes, then dropped to 850.

That's my problem for more than a year, when the car's motor has ''cooled" for few hours then i have this phenomenon.

[nta16]

23 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I didn't touched the pedal, the rev jumped to 1100 and stayed there for 3+ minutes, then dropped to 850.

That's my problem for more than a year, when the car's motor has ''cooled" for few hours then i have this phenomenon.

Looking at Thefeliciahacker's video again it is the same, from initial start up tachometer needle rises and jumps to then drop back, so ignore me.

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

Update:

 

Today the programmer told me that my ECU has a problem especially the ''cold start" chip that's why i burn too much fuel in the beginning of each route.

Tomorrow another ECU will be installed to make some tests and let's hope that the problem will be solved.

[Thefeliciahacker]

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

ECU has a problem especially the ''cold start"

How did he diagnose that??????

[D.FYLAKTOS]

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

How did he diagnose that??????

 

I am not an electrician but i have heard that the ECU has that kind of ''sector".

First of all is obvious to me by the TC-6 and second i think via his laptop in dynamometer, emission analyser and his AFR gauge can understand that something goes wrong.

Of course i don't know how he works but keep in mind that in year 1999 was the first of all in Greece which started to work with ECU-chips.

 

https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/cold-starting/

 

Guys like him with 21+ years of experience in tuning do things that guys like me can not understand.

[Thefeliciahacker]

Yes im aware that the ecu has a cold start sector but I'm wondering. 

You say he found a problem analyzing external data. 

He did not find the problem for example in the ecu code

[nta16]

The car manufacturers have HUGE recourses to set up their cars electronics, they set them at a middle safe level to cover all the various environments and types of driving that model will encounter to keep them within safe parameters of use.  These parameters can be easily be moved from factory settings but the factory settings allow for a wide range of use for a reasonably serviced vehicle running within accepted norms within a reasonable life use and life span.

 

Some chips that are added just look at extended the range of performance by reducing the safety parameters which is fine as long as the vehicle is is well within the margins.

 

The people making the chips do not have the HUGE resources of testing the electronics of the car manufacturer or database of found problems and errors so sometimes they may stray outside the extended parameters of good running and operation.

 

Edited 15 December, 2021 by nta16

[D.FYLAKTOS]

8 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

 

You say he found a problem analyzing external data. 

He did not find the problem for example in the ecu code

 

How To Tune Cold Starts | Cold Start Performance

 

 

As you can image all the above are ''chinese'' to me.

 

He knows my car's problem with high fuel consumption at cold start and in the first kilometres in city driving, when my car is in normal 'C or when i am travelling-sport driving the MPG is excellent.

Yesterday first of all we had an extensive conversation of the cold start symptoms and what i have change trying to fix the problem, one by one we check everything and he said next day he will check it on the Dynamometer plus "about 20 things".

Today he telephone me and said that the problem is in a specific sector of the ECU, at noon he will receive another ECU and make his magic things or if there is a need he will wrote from the beginning a new programme.

I can't explain things that i don't know or i am not sure that he will said to me with complete details, at the bottom line he is a pro, he gives a guarantee for his work and takes no money for that kind of repairs so it would be an ingratitude to start making questions of how he operates.

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

30 minutes ago, nta16 said:

The people making the chips do not have the HUGE resources of testing the electronics of the car manufacturer or database of found problems and errors so sometimes they may stray outside the extended parameters of good running and operation.

 

Yes but we don't speak about a 20VT 3rd stage 500HP Audi S3

he didn't ''go crazy" with the programme and after 17 years only a specific problem occurred and to be honest maybe a part of fault was mine (wrong valves gap, wrong spark plugs reference, very dirty MAP and Lamda etc).

[nta16]

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

Yes but we don't speak about a 20VT 3rd stage 500HP Audi S3

he didn't ''go crazy" with the programme and after 17 years only a specific problem occurred and to be honest maybe a part of fault was mine (wrong valves gap, wrong spark plugs reference, very dirty MAP and Lamda etc).

If you've gone to custom modification suited to your car and you and it ran well for 17 years it sounds very much like you done things correctly and went to the correct chap.  17 years of wear and tear let alone changes perhaps in fuel over the years might just mean small adjustments or corrections to what you already have, or he might find a small fault in a part or component is to blame.

 

Only thing I can not figure is if you have had a fuel problem for two years why you did not go to this chap sooner.

 

You would have to see for yourself what another poster said he had done to a car with 90,000 miles on it which he has only owned for 3 months, practically a software rewrite without hardly lifting the bonnet, almost as if the work was done on the street or in car park, opposite end to how you are doing things.

 

I can't wait to see what wheels he gets for it.  😄

 

I am sure you will be sorted now, good luck.

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

Only thing I can not figure is if you have had a fuel problem for two years why you did not go to this chap sooner.

 

Because any mechanic will tell you to start checking first of all the engine with a scanner tool and then: valves, sensors, injectors, fuel pressure, spark plugs, filter etc.

After you check and exclude all the above what's left? What's the last resort?

The chip (programme) but in this case only a programmer can help, not a local Skoda repair-shop.

 

Felicia is an old model, the today's owners have ''ready" programmes as ABT and sometimes with remote control they can change the modes (City,Sport,Racing etc).

On the web some advertise ''ready to use" Chip tuning devices but isn't a risk?

I am in great agony my fellow Felician for the today's news. 🥺

[nta16]

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Because any mechanic will tell you to start checking first of all the engine with a scanner tool and then: valves, sensors, injectors, fuel pressure, spark plugs, filter etc.

Yes, saves you time and money and them time on what's really not their speciality, I was just lost why that would take two years but no matter.

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

After you check and exclude all the above what's left? What's the last resort?

The chip (programme) but in this case only a programmer can help, not a local Skoda repair-shop.

Yes this was the path once is was known that your car is chipped.

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

On the web some advertise ''ready to use" Chip tuning devices but isn't a risk?

Personally I would stay well clear.  Tuners use off-the-self units and programs but hopefully they have selected good and robust products to use on their customers' vehicles.  A lot of it comes from motorsport so neds to be correct for road use only and the suitability of any particular product to the vehicle it is to be fitted to.

 

In the very old days the chips were piggy-back chips that could be removed then it was custom programming chip that would require hours of the car being driven on the road or more expensive on a rolling road and the chip program would be custom to the vehicle and to some extent the driver or way the vehicle was to be driven.

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I am in great agony my fellow Felician for the today's news. 🥺

Yes, best of luck to you, it may turn out to be a simple fix still, good luck.

 

[HappySkoda]

https://youtu.be/XSE50ijtiLU

 

 ok guys  second video. 

[Thefeliciahacker]

1 hour ago, HappySkoda said:

https://youtu.be/XSE50ijtiLU

Σου κανει μπερδεματα σα να ειναι μπουκωμενο = it's stuttering like its running rich.
ok if that is in conjuction with slight jittering it's either one of those things.

Poor throttle position data,

Or poor ignition,

But high fuel consumption could only be fiugred out by filming vcds datastream.

Something tells me that the car has an issue managing fuelling as shown by an 10l/100km avg consumtion,

You could test the catalytic converter temperature before and right after the cat that would give you some indication on the afr and

posting some photos of the plugs could also give us valuable intel.

[nta16]

Do not worry about your English it is excellent, people would have more trouble understanding my local English accent.

 

To me the revs seemed just a little low at starting but not bad, I would have driven off normally from that.

 

I have no idea about your l/km (I automatically wondered if you had reset your trip as I was thinking in miles and mpg!).

 

You can only take the fuel gauge reading as a rough guide, most I have used have inaccuracies and are not linear in their inaccuracy or accuracy so as had been said before only at a complete refill from the previous refill can you say the consumption and divide by the distance travelled between the two fills.  My wife's previous car even from brand new would show 'Full' on the gauge up to about 110 miles sometimes, the car averaged 48-50 miles per gallon, so about two gallons used.

 

One thing I do wonder about, but I am not sure it would make any difference, does the Driver's Handbook instruct you to press and hold the clutch pedal down when starting the engine?

 

And were you hold the peddle down all thorough the video.

 

Great camera angle. 👍 😁

  

[nta16]

11 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

posting some photos of the plugs could also give us valuable intel.

Plug colour is only a very rough indication and needs to be done after the plugs are cleaned or replaced with new plugs, over here there is also variance in fuels and additives, my plugs will have the inner insulator salmon pink or a tint of salmon pink.

 

You also need to switch off the engine at the point and speed or settings you want to check the colour of the plugs at.  So if on the road you need to, when safe to do so, switch the engine off at the point you want to read the plugs, then stop as quickly as possible with the engine off and then pull the plugs for photo.  The plugs and the engine will probably be hot. so beware.

 

Edited 16 December, 2021 by nta16

[nta16]

37 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

it's stuttering like its running rich

If a sensor or ECU thinks, or it is actually running lean, revs too low, then that could lead to over fuelling as compensation or over-compensation actions taking place.  Sometimes an injector(s) might be a bit dirty or worn so have a drip with spray pattern perhaps at shut off.  This could lead to internment cold starting depending on how much fuel was in the area(s) when the engine was switched off, the relativity of the heat soak from the cooling systems stopping, the ambient temperature and humidity, the surroundings, the wind and wind chill to bonnet and under car etc..

 

8c at 3pm - no figure now for 3 pm here but at the nearby weather station shows it was 10-11c here, about 85% humidity, almost no wind and it has not rained for 4 days (but boy did it then) but where I am is often 0.5-1c higher temperature and if there is any wind we notice it more being a the top of a rise.

 

Edited 16 December, 2021 by nta16

[HappySkoda]

Don't know guys but it has deside to work normally.. 🤔🙄🙄

[Thefeliciahacker]

you have to figure out what changed.

[D.FYLAKTOS]

On 16/12/2021 at 17:20, HappySkoda said:

 

 

 ok guys  second video. 

 

From 2:16 till 3:21 the idle was 900 rpm, mine is 1100 rpm for 3:40 minutes.

Have you ever made a restart to your ECU unit?

 

On 16/12/2021 at 18:54, nta16 said:

does the Driver's Handbook instruct you to press and hold the clutch pedal down when starting the engine?

 

And were you hold the peddle down all thorough the video.

 

Some of us do it just till the motor starts, it's for 2 seconds and of course not till we engage the 1st gears because this would ruin our clutch.

[nta16]

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Some of us do it just till the motor starts,

 

 

 

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

it's for 2 seconds and of course not till we engage the 1st gears because this would ruin our clutch.

Sorry I am not sure I understand this as it seems to reinforce why not to do it and what I am about to write.

 

 

IF the original Driver's Handbook does not tell you to press the clutch to start the car and your cars are in such good condition why do you feel you need to do this?

 

Why not try starting the car, from cold at least, without having the clutch pedal pressed down, obviously with the gears in neutral, keeping both feet away from all pedals, this way the load is constant and not changed when you lift the clutch pedal, pushing and lifting varies the load otherwise you would not have been told to do it.

 

Trying this experiment will not damage your engine or your clutch and is easy, quick and costs nothing to try.

 

With my old car which has a clutch release bearing, will start with the clutch pedal pressed down but it starts far better when clutch is not pressed down, in fact on mine you should not press the clutch pedal down when starting the car as it will wear the (carbon) release bearing and many of a certain age will know this.

 

For "old skool" see this, my car is a1973 model not 1955-62 as in this video (and about a fifth or less of its value in UK). - 

 

 

  

Edited 17 December, 2021 by nta16
will start with the clutch pedal pressed down

[HappySkoda]

10 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

you have to figure out what changed.

Absolutely nothing!! 🤯

[HappySkoda]

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

Have you ever made a restart to your ECU unit?

 

Me personally, no. Never. I dont have a laptop with specific software to do it. 

[nta16]

7 minutes ago, HappySkoda said:

Absolutely nothing!! 🤯

My above post goes for you too.

 

In the UK we have different blends of petrol for "winter" and "summer" but mothing is declared at the pumps.  At these two points of the year the petrol blend that has just been changed to may not suit the prevailing weather conditions at that time as the weather does not run to fuel providers settings so there can be odd little change over things on the cars, do you have "summer" and "winter" blends in Greece?

 

Edited 17 December, 2021 by nta16

[HappySkoda]

4 minutes ago, nta16 said:

My above post goes for you too.

 

In the UK we have different blends of petrol for "winter" and "summer" but mothing is declared at the pumps.  At these two points of the year the petrol blend that has just been changed to may not suit the prevailing weather conditions at that time as the weather does not run to fuel providers settings so there can be odd little change over things on the cars, do you have "summer" and "winter" blends in Greece?

 

As i know, the answer is no. Only gasoline with 95, 98, 100 octane.