Here are the suggestions by Mann for my Felicia.

https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Felicia/1.3 136 B~M, AMH (T00000000330313)/Air Filter/C 28 136~1

C 28 136/1 with height: 57

 

and for dusty environments

https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Felicia/1.3 136 B~M, AMH (T00000000330313)/Air Filter/C 28 136~2

C 28 136/2 with height: 65

 

The second would have more restricted flow?

Sorry the previous link I put up did not work, - [now edited to work] - if it had it would have shown as below, that on the Mann site 1L0129620 cross references to 1L0 129 620 A and 1L0 129 620C as below but with the caution "Use cross reference as a guide only.  Check application list to ensure accurate MANN-FILTER product." which seems to cover your car.  The link(s) were given only as an example of cross referencing coming up with different part numbers to the same applications. - 

https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/oenumbersresult/203990356914032022114331

 

 

Unless you are in a dusty environment I do not see the point of you having C 28 136/2.  The pleats are deeper so there is a wider sheet of filtering material to the same filter width and presumably(?) number of pleats(?) but I do not know if that would work out any more restrictive.  If the guy in the video is correct that airboxes are oversized then it would not matter unless the air input is marginal for performance of the particular vehicle which in standard factory form I would doubt as the dusty environments presumably(?)  had been allowed for.  The deeper pleats would hold more debris but would be considered severe driving condition so on severe servicing schedule and filter changed more frequently.

  

Edited 14 March, 20224 yr by nta16
ETA:

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The second would have more restricted flow?

I'd guess the opposite - the filter for dusty environments have larger filtering area, so it'll take more time before it saturates with particles. But even ordinary filter should work well - I've been using Mann filters on my Felly without issues.

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

Unless you are in a dusty environment I do not see the point of you having C 28 136/2.

 

You are right, i will stay to 57mm height.

 

3 hours ago, Papez said:

 I've been using Mann filters on my Felly without issues.

 

I am using Mann oil filter and as for air filter i use a Filtron AP 140 that i had as spare. The weird thing was that it didn't fit perfect when i put it and i had to turn it 180'

 

I have installed the new coolant sesnsor plug, i will post photos from the old one.

21 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

with pro filter

it has foam in front of the paper element

JUST BUY A SPRINT hahaha

23 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

it has foam in front of the paper element

 

Double filtration? After these 2 filters is enough air coming for sport use (high rmp revving) ?

I am on the last details of my problem, when i solve everything then it would be time for the Sprint filter.

8 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Double filtration? After these 2 filters is enough air coming for sport use (high rmp revving) ?

Not double just holding up bigger particles to avoid clogging the main filter element, it will affect the total airflow just a little.

Gentlemen, as i reach the top of the ladder for my problem's solution let's take a final look of than BMC filter before goes to recycle bin. I have found another one missing part but there are some others which stuck like gum on the bottom of the air filter box and i throw them away.

I installed that filter at 41930 Km, removed few years later for cleaning-oiling with the maintenance kit and reinstall it.

Remove it at 78078 Km (i saw that the frame started to show signs of cracking and i glued them) to test a Peper filter but place it back after a week

84932 Km the end of story, this what's left of it.

 

 

 

 

 

So that numbers of 150.000 miles that i am reading are just for show-off and that's the end of story for gauge filters for me.

__________________________________________________________________

 

Meanwhile let's take a look at the coolant as is today morning, everything looks fine, no dark spots of sludge.

 

 

 

 

After checking one by one every sector (finding mistakes and giving the proper solution one thing over and over was in my thought, the Cold Start. I had the instinct that it was the ''guilty", the responsible for not finding the final solution.

I checked the coolant sensor, replace it just for test and as i had no positive results i was ready to send the ECU to another programmer to check IF there is something inside which controls the cold start (i don't know, i was just wondering) till my eye caught the plug and the cables which were covered partially with tape. I had the suspicion that something is wrong with those cables, one was very lose and the other three were very rigid and two of them had a cut on their insulation. With some help i found the code and ordered a new one, i went few days back to the electrician to cut those wires and install the new one. I made the first cold start of the day, drove for about 1 km and the fuel consumption was 12,1 or 12,3 ltr which is 23.34 or 22.96 Mpg (i am not remember correctly) ,when arrived i was waiting because there was another customer before me and when he finished the car had cool a bit.

That was my last step, i could think anything else, i was run-dry by ideas, i was desperate and many have told me to be compromised with the idea of such high fuel consumption in city traffic but deep inside me i was telling ''NO". Somewhere was a mistake, something was wrong and i haven't find it, there must be a solution and no matter what some mechanics said my fuel consumption wasn't this one!

With the head full of thoughts i made reverse, went to the road, start driving for few minutes and with agony i looked the TC-6 for fuel consumption. You can not imagine the expression of my face that time, was like this:

 

 

Great news, well done.

 

And well done on finding the bad wiring connection, I am surprised something like this was not found by the mechanics and tuning person you went to with his computer programs but it depends on what he was asked to do if it was only to put (an updated?) program on then fair enough.  A good quality tuner should have had you filling in forms or asking you if there was issues with the car before starting any tuning but again if he was only asked to reload a program fair enough.

 

You have had a frustrating journey but also picked up a few things along the way and been reminded of a few things.

 

Going forward if you want to reintroduce some of the changes and modifications you had before do them one at a time and check if they really are an improvement, though that result may only reflect the circumstances of the time but might give you a general idea given all the historical information you have.

 

Clicking on your link to the help you were given, and well done on the help you were given with that, it did remind me of the following, easy with hindsight and it was only one hit against many misses.

On 09/02/2022 at 10:40, nta16 said:

The cables to the coolant sensor may be significant especially the one with a bare patch and other with loose connection, you will find out from the results of the repairs if this is so, and all being well this might be the end of it.

 

 

That BMC filter is dreadful, I know for certain (old at least) K&N do hold together for decades.

 

Good luck with your future improvements and well done again on your instinct, record keeping and persistence.

 

Noboby look for this item because the cables were covered with tape plus when they asked me ''did you change the coolant sensor?'' and i was replying ''yes'' the searching was over for them about this.

The thought that my Cold start was not proper was every day and night in my mind and when i removed the tape and i saw this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

i said to my self ''i gotcha you son of a b@itch''. This sneaky-submissive-dishonest-cunning-b@stard-crook was the main cause for my bad cold starts and the terrible fuel consumption. I haven't tested it yet with a multimeter but when i change it i cover the cables with a plastic tube plus Tesa cloth tape outside.

 

Here is the new plug of the coolant sensor (in Greece the mechanics call that sensosr as: Cold start valve).

 

 

 

 

The BMC filter ruined my MAP sensor and my fuel consumption, if i had remove it on time i would save the MAP plus the Lambda sensor (i paid extra money when the blame was not on these) but now it's done, i can't go back.

I have take photos from that day that i changed the plug, from another day with trip in highway plus from another two days in city traffic.

Nor me or any other Felicia driver will believe the results, today i made a reset to TC-6 to check another two days the results before i post the photos.

An almost 3 years old nightmare it's near the final End!

How is that even possible?

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

How is that even possible?

My first thought too.  The photos are too low-res to see for sure, was the damage after removal from cutting away the tape or was there damage and perhaps burning to a wire(s)?

 

Mechanics do not usually ask what has been done if they are carrying out their own diagnosis, they should even check that the fault is as you say.  Also just because a new part has been fitted does not mean necessarily that it is the right part for the problem or correct part to vehicle or that it is functioning properly just because it is new, often the first thing to suspect and check is any work that has not resolved the issue.

 

Particularly with modern cars a part is fitted because it shows an error code without showing it is actually faulty - shooting the messenger, but this also happens with older cars.

 

What caused that plug to fail, you need to know this to prevent it happening again.

 

I have never seen a good level scan tool on a car of this age so do not know what information you can get with it but I would have thought but do not know, that a programming tuner would have some readings to point towards the coolant sensor, meaning the sensor itself or its connection or wiring (or programming).  The fuelling surely would have shown off expected levels.

 

As I put before the first thing the tuner should do is check the current state of health, if only to show what gains his work has made but properly to see if the vehicle is fit for tuning before beginning tuning. - again unless he was only asked to reload a program.  I have been to tuners who are good and tunes who are not so good, some talk to the vehicle whilst the better ones talk with the vehicle and the customer.

 

Edited 15 March, 20224 yr by nta16

12 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

How is that even possible?

 

I was present when he removed it and gave it to my hands and there was no need to pull the wires, my order was to cut them few cm back and install new wires.

You didn't noticed the yellow ring, ha ha.

 

 

11 hours ago, nta16 said:

The photos are too low-res to see for sure, was the damage after removal from cutting away the tape or was there damage and perhaps burning to a wire(s)?

 

I will upload them in higher resolution. I am more surprised than you gentlemen, i have mention in older post that the cables were rigid and one of them was loose but i didn't expect such mess.

 

 

 

 

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

You didn't noticed the yellow ring, ha ha.

Do you mean the yellow ring connector behind the oil filler neck - no I didn't notice that - or the yellow ring on the sensor, that I did notice but could not remember what colour was decided on as correct.

 

I did wonder if the marks in the previous photos were residue of the tape but with your later I wonder even more, to me, not being an electrician of any sort, if by the look of the wires and the fact you said were stiff there has been overheating to those wires (and connector.   In the photo below the green oval looks like a knife nick bit the red ovals look like possibly overheating or breakdown of the insulation.  

 

 

 

Even more perplexing is the photo below - the black wire and whatever happened to it and the plastic on the connector plug - has someone done a connecting bodge on the wire and its connection to the connector pluh?

 

I would be looking at the wiring going back from this connector and check the wiring and any wiring and connectors back from it.

 

 

Edited 16 March, 20224 yr by nta16

54 minutes ago, nta16 said:

the yellow ring on the sensor, that I did notice but could not remember what colour was decided on as correct

 

It's supposed to be Blue but it's Yellow, i put it as a test (maybe something was wrong with the previous Blue) and works fine.

 

The cables were rigid and bented many years ago but for those cuts i have no explanation plus i don't know how much these affected the "signals" that this sensor was sending.

 

The 1st morning start is slightly better (one click) but the late (night) start must be the same. 

 

I have done tests for 2 days plus a small trip on the highway but accidentally i zeroed yesterday the Average fuel consumption so i have to wait few days to verify the results.

28 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The cables were rigid and bented many years ago but for those cuts i have no explanation plus i don't know how much these affected the "signals" that this sensor was sending.

I can understand the insulators going stiff with age and the environment they are in but the wires look like they have been hacked at and what I marked with the blue, purple and orange oval makes no sense other than perhaps bodging.  I have already put what I would do, all seems strange to me.

 

You and Thefeliciahacker will know the difference between the blue and yellow sensors I do not so no idea if it makes any odds.

 

Whether changing that connector and its wiring makes any difference to your figures I think it was a good idea to change it anyway.

 

 

 

to me it looks overheated...

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

Whether changing that connector and its wiring makes any difference to your figures I think it was a good idea to change it anyway.

 

I searched in my archives, i have photo that all the cables are bent but i can not explain why they were so rigid, even now the plug can stand upside down like a spider because the cables are like tree branches.

 

11 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

to me it looks overheated...

 

By the sensor with Yellow ring? By the engine bay? Hmm...

Must affected the signals otherwise i can not explain the immediately change on the instand fuel consumption at cold start.

I have found and older photo of my engine bay, i crop the part which shows the cables already be bent. Later became rigid and with that ''abused'' look.

That does look over short.  Should the wiring harness perhaps be supported to lift it higher, had the wires to the temperature sensor been shorten, surely all is not as from factory?

 

36 minutes ago, nta16 said:

surely all is not as from factory?

 

The plug is original with VW code on, i haven't touched the wires-pins etc for 22 years.

I have changed some coolant sensors yes but never ''mess'' with the plug except that maybe me or a mechanic while working pressed the cables down with his elbow.

Here are some photos (Google search) from other Felicia.

 

 

In those three photos the wires appear to be a bit longer (and a lot longer in one photo) plus the big branch of the harness is supported and held up but a cradle type clip so the weight of the harness and wire to temp sensor are supported.

 

In your photo the wires to me appear to be below and stretched with barely enough length on the temp sensor to disconnect the plug - but as you put perhaps this was at time of photo because the harness had been pushed down as I see in your later photo with new wire length and protection that the harness is held by the cradle clip.

 

Looking at that photo did though also draw my attention to how tight the wires looked going to the coil pack.

 

Also what is the unclipped electric cable going over the the throttle cable that runs along with the wiring harness there and could it not be a cable-tied or wrapped to the harness and go under the throttle cable.

 

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

Also what is the unclipped electric cable going over the the throttle cable that runs along with the wiring harness there and could it not be a cable-tied or wrapped to the harness and go under the throttle cable.

 

 

Can you point that with arrow or cycle? i don't understand what you mean.

 

MPG update:

I gathered 4 receipts with notes for my latest gasoline refueling, old fashion way measurements and the results are:

1) 99 Km distance, 13,23 ltr/ 100 Km or 21,35 mpg (citty traffic)

2) 153 Km distance, 13,33 ltr/ 100 Km or 21,19 mpg (citty traffic)

3) 248 Km distance, 12,9 ltr / 100 Km or 21,89 mpg (city traffic plus some km in boulevard and few round on a small mountain route)

4) 110,3 Km distance, 11,87 ltr / 100 Km or 23,79 mpg (city traffic plus a small trip in the highway)

 

The No1,No2,No3 were with the car still having issues (BMC filter on, damaged plug on coolant sensor, iridium spark plugs still new, air intake manifold not clean etc)

The No4 still had some Km with all the above problems, then there was the fixing of the plug and later a small trip to the highway which means about 50km distance in city traffic (with issues) then about 15 in highway and the rest in city traffic.

 

The TC-6 helped me till few days ago and then i accidentally pressed the zeroing button and this ruined my No4 calculations.

So now can't rely on the Average fuel consumption, i can not always watch the Instantly because i am gonna crush, i can't rely on the Remaining kilometres because shows different when you are moving and when the car is parked and there are no turbulence in the fuel tank.

I relay on the Total fuel consumption (now that the odometer is zeroed) which (by surpise) in the screen has the letter Σ which means ''total'' (Συνολικα is written in Greek).

After at least 50 km i can have a good idea for the fuel consumption with the car having no issues (let's pray that i will not discover anything new) and will see all the ''improvements'' how good worked.

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Can you point that with arrow or cycle? i don't understand what you mean.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

then i accidentally pressed the zeroing button

Yes I think we have all deleted something by mistake.

 

Good thing is you can start fresh with the figures anyway and get the whole set with your new circumstances.