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Bertie90

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I did what Wino suggested, applied the hadbrake just until it caught. One side was a bit weaker than the other. Gave it a  good clean, retighened the handbrake and on the first click of the hadbrake they both seem very grippy. However one of the cylinders has leaked once and compromised the grip under pedal braking. Bought the new shebang kit again including new drums. Back on the road.

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17 minutes ago, Bertie90 said:

I did what Wino suggested, applied the hadbrake just until it caught. One side was a bit weaker than the other. Gave it a  good clean, retighened the handbrake and on the first click of the hadbrake they both seem very grippy. However one of the cylinders has leaked once and compromised the grip under pedal braking. Bought the new shebang kit again including new drums. Back on the road.

Sorry I thought you'd sorted it.

 

First click, you're obviously not as strong as Wino. 😄

 

And Wino was right about your kit if the cylinder was 3.5 years old - but that would be very long lasting compared to some "classic" car parts, IIRC I had a leak in one drum only weeks or few months after fitting new parts.  ****-poor rubbish rubber has plagued classic car parts for at least the last 15 years in my personal experience and I've always thought this lack of quality must seep into other car parts at some points.  That's without the counterfeit parts years back that found their way into Dealership stores, though denied of course.

 

That's the thing with drums if it's small leak it's hidden.

 

Well done on sorting it and well done to Wino for suggestion.

 

 

Edited by nta16
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16 minutes ago, Bertie90 said:

I did what Wino suggested, applied the hadbrake just until it caught. One side was a bit weaker than the other. Gave it a  good clean, retighened the handbrake and on the first click of the hadbrake they both seem very grippy. However one of the cylinders has leaked once and compromised the grip under pedal braking. Bought the new shebang kit again including new drums. Back on the road.

 

Top man, this thread was in danger of rambling off into the middle of bumblefork nowhere...

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19 minutes ago, Phil866 said:

The later MG Midget was powered by the Triumph 1500 engine, single rail gearbox and J type overdrive so I found I could buy parts for those cheaper from the MGB Hive near Wisbech. The body panel presses were bought by Heritage when BL sold them off so they are not really in short supply , but you do have to wait until Heritage have enough backorders to make pressing them worthwhile. I've been waiting for a new boot floor for years now. 🤐  I'll buy and MGB project car one day.....

I'm quite experienced in MG/BL (and other British cars) ownership having used four MGs, Rover P6 and the GT6 as dailies in the last 30 years.

 

I went to the MGBHive decades back, Parsons Green IIRC, mail order only now I think and good prices still but they have some of the poorer quality parts, many of the smaller suppliers stock from Moss I think, I don't know if Rimmers wholesale too.  My two Spridgets I bought because they had BMH Ltd. Heritage shells, the first was an earlier multi-fit for various years and current one the later round whel arch with at least some 1500 bits on it.  I can assure you the presses are getting old and the staff must have turned over by age only.  The panels and bodies always had some flaws but things like wishbones now are dreadful - but I've no idea of Triumph panels.  I knew at least one Mini built on a Heritage shell but that was years ago.

 

The Midget 1500 never got the overdrive, though the earlier 3.9 diffs could have done with it, later were 3.7 diff, though a few have added the overdrive, bit of cutting work required IIRC.  I've never driven a 1500 as far as I can remember and have rarely passenger'd in them, first time was when I was about 16 and had no idea what a MG was though I'd seen Spitfires, I was talked into MGs when I told a work college about a small Austin Healey (Spridget) I'd seen at a customer's.  I had no idea they were MG, the Bs I'd only seen a BGT with a V8 badge so thought they were all V8s.  And that is how I started to help bolster the British economy, and later the Chinese. South Asia, India, South America . . .

 

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32 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

this thread was in danger of rambling off into the middle of bumblefork nowhere...

You been put in charge again, you really must speak up sooner and more forcefully.

And no point you posting such until I've finished typing. 😉

 

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On 14/12/2021 at 15:12, sepulchrave said:

This is indicative of a rear wheel cylinder leak which has contaminated the shoes on one side as well as reducing braking pressure.

 

This turned out to be spot on, by the sound of it. :thumbup:

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, nta16 said:

You have taken the word something too literally, I used that word not the garage.  The electronics that control it are inside the gearbox,

On a 16 year old vehicle?

 

How else should I take "they tell her there's something wrong with the gearbox that neds (sic) sorting," other than as it was written?

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

you can monitor and even control it with the scan tool - notice I answer your questions even if you don't give answers when I ask you.

 

Absolutely right because the questions from you that I ignore are when you have chosen not to take what I have written at face value and replied with dumb questions like "so I suppose you are saying that............?" or "does this mean that you believe.................?"

 

I post information or advice in response to members requests, sometimes that may be contradictory to what others trot out,  those who on the one hand say that they rarely if ever actually work on their vehicles and that they know little about mechanics yet are quick to respond to detailed questions on complex issues with an authorative air yet can only be repeating what they have read somewhere.

Edited by J.R.
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20 hours ago, J.R. said:

On a 16 year old vehicle?

Yes.

 

 

20 hours ago, J.R. said:

with an authorative air yet can only be repeating what they have read somewhere.

I'll bang in more, "er", "I think", "that's what I've read" "IIRC" - then you'll say I should put what I'm not sure of.  I do often put I'm not mechanical or an expert in anything  but if I put it every time you'd moan about that, if there was a starter or end banner or signature with each post I'd include it there. 

 

 I am authorative (sic) with experience of some car faults and breakdowns unfortunately (and sticky keys, and poor spelling keyboards).

 

By your logic I should never learn from what from you then as I only see what you write.  I'm not overfilled with testosterone and ego and the need to always be right like some others, if I make a mistake and I am told about it I try to put it right but if I can't then it goes with the trillions of others errors on the internet on a relatively unimportant subject like cars.  I don't mind being corrected but I don't want attempted intimidation and bullying from an individual or pack.

 

FYI I was in the car operating the scan tool, and gearbox if I wanted, it's not that I'm clever it's just that the right tool was available for me to have a go with.

 

Not being a mechanical, electrical, electronics expert and not being a full-time DIY mechanic means I can perhaps understand more how those that ask some of the questions which I think can sometimes be useful

 

Your conclusion that I can only be repeating what I have read somewhere is wrong.

 

All this is all tiresome for you, I and particularly others.

 

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