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skoda fabia failed MOT on emissions

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For £15 with a warranty if it works want's to worry about.

 

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  • I got someone to come out to check the car and confirmed its a bad catalytic converter  and i found a car breakers who is willing to give me a catalytic converter and said if it passes the mot I pay £

  • Update good news my car passed its mot and it was the catalytic converter not the 02 sensor. And had to replace the exhaust sleeve as it was 100% rust lol  Thanks for every one's help 👍👍👍👍

  • This has completely spiralled out of control, if the car has failed on emissions there should be a readout from the gas analyser stapled to the fail sheet. Please post a picture so we can clearly see

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I fitted the front 02 sensor and not it stays at 1 volt is that good or not?

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Not good, I think. What was the Bosch (or other) part number of it?

 

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Not sure now as I installed it and its tricky to get to but the guy I got it from checked my reg number and said it right one the front sits at 1v and rear one 0.1v at idle 

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That suggests the front one is trying to richen the mixture because the back one's reading lean.  What if you keep your foot on the gas and hold it at about 2000rpm, say?

 

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3 minutes ago, Wino said:

That suggests the front one is trying to richen the mixture because the back one's reading lean.  What if you keep your foot on the gas and hold it at about 2000rpm, say?

 

I done that and front  one stays at 1.v and back one jumps from .1 to .9 then back to .1

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Still think the flexi leak may be your problem, you didn't do anything about that, did you?  in my experience, unless you unmount the pipe at one end at least, you can't really see how broken/leaky the flexi is.

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7 minutes ago, Wino said:

Still think the flexi leak may be your problem, you didn't do anything about that, did you?  in my experience, unless you unmount the pipe at one end at least, you can't really see how broken/leaky the flexi is.

The flexi is brand new one its just a universal one what i will do is get it welded on and the Blackbox got a leak near the tail pipe which I patched up one thing I remember is when I got the car the flexi was leaking from the clamps but it still passed the mot and after the mot the garage just tighten up the clamp which stopped the leak

18 hours ago, Mobear said:

the flexi was leaking from the clamps but it still passed the mot and after the mot the garage just tighten up the clamp which stopped the leak

None of which means that the flexi hasn't gone porous in the last 12 months.

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5 hours ago, KenONeill said:

None of which means that the flexi hasn't gone porous in the last 12 months.

Yea true I got a new flexi pipe got welded on now the front still at 1v but back one is even better now it going up and down how it should 

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Any difference to the exhaust smell?

 

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2 minutes ago, Wino said:

Any difference to the exhaust smell?

 

Still there but not that bad. I'm getting the front sensor replaced as I think thats what it is the one I took off from there part number is 036906262T so getting the same one 

  • 2 weeks later...
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I fitted the new upstream 02 sensor for bank 1 sensor 1 and voltage is moving up and down from 1v to .8v and got a average reading of c02 of 89.6 g/km I think before it was much higher but don't remember how much does it sound better?? Got mot next Wednesday feel lost without the car 

Lifted from elsewhere - "The process for testing the sensors is simple: The sensor needs to exceed .8 volt and drop below .2 volt, and the transition from low to high and high to low should be quick. In most cases, a good snap throttle test will verify the sensor’s ability to achieve the .8 and .2 voltage limits." 

 

Sorry I've no idea about the c02 of 89.6 g/km and how it relates to tail pipe MoT test.

 

If you've not used the car for a few weeks possibly worth check the battery charge as you don't want any embarrassing hassle getting the car to the MoT or upsetting the tester's mood.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

 

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2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Lifted from elsewhere - "The process for testing the sensors is simple: The sensor needs to exceed .8 volt and drop below .2 volt, and the transition from low to high and high to low should be quick. In most cases, a good snap throttle test will verify the sensor’s ability to achieve the .8 and .2 voltage limits." 

 

Sorry I've no idea about the c02 of 89.6 g/km and how it relates to tail pipe MoT test.

 

If you've not used the car for a few weeks possibly worth check the battery charge as you don't want any embarrassing hassle getting the car to the MoT or upsetting the tester's mood.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

 

I think its a wideband 02 sensor as it has 5 wires part number 036906262t but not sure the rear 02 sensor does as you described but the front one doesn't move much when I snap the throttle and the front sensor its a brand new one and the brand is lemark

 

And its parked in a private car park so I do start it and drive it around the car park

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10 minutes ago, Mobear said:

the front one doesn't move much when I snap the throttle

Wideband ones tend to sit at a pretty solid, constant value, as they are controlling the fuelling accurately in real time to maintain lambda=1.  I posted the expected value range upthread somewhere.

No idea how or where you've measured a CO2 number from.  CO is measured at MOT, not CO2, so it may not even be relevant.

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1 minute ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Wideband ones tend to sit at a pretty solid, constant value, as they are controlling the fuelling accurately in real time to maintain lambda=1.  I posted the expected value range upthread somewhere.

No idea how or where you've measured a CO2 number from.  CO is measured at MOT, not CO2, so it may not even be relevant.

I got the CO2 from torque pro app and I just have to wait for the mot on Wednesday but I sorted all the exhaust and new 02 sensor new oil and filter and new air filter and new plugs and leads were changed few months ago it seems much more responsive now and feels like its got more power 

31 minutes ago, Mobear said:

I got the CO2 from torque pro app and I just have to wait for the mot on Wednesday but I sorted all the exhaust and new 02 sensor new oil and filter and new air filter and new plugs and leads were changed few months ago it seems much more responsive now and feels like its got more power 

 

How in the hell would your smartphone know how much CO2 was coming out of your cars exhaust?

 

Aren't you embarrassed at how stupid that app is?

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1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

How in the hell would your smartphone know how much CO2 was coming out of your cars exhaust?

 

Aren't you embarrassed at how stupid that app is?

Its connected via a Bluetooth dongle and the apps been pretty good for me not had no problems at all so no not embarrassed and you should really direct the last part to the developer's of the app nothing to do with me im just using it 

3 minutes ago, Mobear said:

Its connected via a Bluetooth dongle and the apps been pretty good for me not had no problems at all so no not embarrassed and you should really direct the last part to the developer's of the app nothing to do with me im just using it 

 

It's not that you're using it, it's that you're trusting it to know stuff it can't possibly know!

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2 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

It's not that you're using it, it's that you're trusting it to know stuff it can't possibly know!

I thought it used the sensors to workout things 

7 minutes ago, Mobear said:

I thought it used the sensors to workout things 

 

It guesses, however if your car is fixed then that's good enough, you don't need an app to tell you it's fixed.

19 hours ago, Mobear said:

I think its a wideband 02 sensor as it has 5 wires part number 036906262t but not sure the rear 02 sensor does as you described but the front one doesn't move much when I snap the throttle and the front sensor its a brand new one and the brand is lemark

 

And its parked in a private car park so I do start it and drive it around the car park

Fair enough, my post was a bit like your app but it brought the desired result.  Lemark is one of the brands (like Intermotor) that are owned by SMPE / SMP Europe / Standard Products Europe Limited, more UK/Europe quality than proper Japanese quality - but if they work great but don't expect the same accuracy and longevity of accuracy and life as the higher priced other makes.

 

Your app and phone might, and I don't know I'm just going on other (non-diagnostic) apps I've seen mates use on their phones related to cars, be a bit slower at (can't think of the right word so I'll just put) updating the info from engine to screen than you'd ideally want so don't expect real-time accuracy necessarily.  Or I might be wrong and your system is lightening fast.  Then there's the computer program behind the app to consider how good it is, and perhaps rounding ups and downs, also how good the sensor is, a good few variables from sensor head to screen readout.  

 

I think of the free or low-priced tools like these as being the same as the modern made mechanical gauge in my car, as I tell my wife it's called a gauge and not an accurate, as long as the needles behave in their usual way things are as normal.  If your car is now running well the exact displays on a screen don't matter too much. 😊

 

Cartoon-showing-difference-between-precision-and-accuracy-A-new-cardiac-output-technique.png.49ef74e0da296a4a096967bdde2f1b04.png

   

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18 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

It guesses, however if your car is fixed then that's good enough, you don't need an app to tell you it's fixed.

I find out if its fixed on Wednesday I will update Thanks

Regarding the speed of reaction of a Lambda sensor.

 

You should never rely on a digital multimeter for testing the output as it will only display the average voltage if at all, I have an old school moving coil instrument whose only function these days is testing Lambda sensors, I look for the needle sweeping up and down regularly and frequently around the reference figure and also for its reaction when the throttle is snapped open and closed from constant revs.

 

The voltages quoted seem different from what I was used to, I'm sure I was looking for swings from 0.8v to 1.2v for an average of 1.0v but to be fair since driving diesels for over a decade things may have changed with wide range sensors or my memory may be playing tricks, the importance for me is to see it switching fairly frequently, is that no longer good practice?

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