They haven’t diagnosed anything other than the car has recorded misfires on cylinders 1,2, and 3. They are just guessing that maybe it could be a plug or a coil. Who knows maybe it will fix it, it’s a £200 gamble…

The fact that it is “misfiring” doesn’t mean it has an ignition fault. There could be a faulty sensor, wiring fault, bad fuel, low compression, carbon build up, vvt fault, air leak, literally dozens of possible things.

Swapping coils is an low cost first try. If you can’t do this I’d be tempted to run the car a bit longer and let the fault develop, especially as the only issue is a flashing warning light. 

 

47 minutes ago, classic said:

They haven’t diagnosed anything other than the car has recorded misfires on cylinders 1,2, and 3. They are just guessing that maybe it could be a plug or a coil. Who knows maybe it will fix it, it’s a £200 gamble…

The fact that it is “misfiring” doesn’t mean it has an ignition fault. There could be a faulty sensor, wiring fault, bad fuel, low compression, carbon build up, vvt fault, air leak, literally dozens of possible things.

Swapping coils is an low cost first try. If you can’t do this I’d be tempted to run the car a bit longer and let the fault develop, especially as the only issue is a flashing warning light. 

 

It's not only flashing engine sign. Stop/start doesn't work as soon as engine sign flashes. The next day car starts normal and runs normal which means start/stop works fine until engine gets enough hot. then without fail it throws the engine flashing sign on the dash, consequently stop/start gives error .  Its happening eryday. Mechanic checked the live data and based on that they said three cylinders misfires. I know it could be anything..but how to pin point the fault. I like your idea though to swap the coils. but as i never changed the ignition coil i rather not touch it. I may pay some money to local guy to swap it for me. do you think i should do it? so far only cylinder 4 hasn't got any problem..and cylinder 3 is almost every occasion.

 

N.B: One thing I definitely want to make sure that there was not a slightly loss of power. if there was any problem with the cylinder I should be expecting some lacking of power, isn't it? OP said he/she changed all the coils and spark plugs and also his/her symptom was losing the power. Is there any update from you randompunter?

Edited 2 February, 20224 yr by automass

I sympathise automass, but the problem you’ve got is that if you have to ask a garage to try something you have been told by 2 guys on an Internet forum, then you are at the wrong garage.

The place you went to haven’t told you anything you didn’t already know from your own code reader, they’ve charged you £70 to plug their machine in and tell you a semi educated guess as to what the problem might be.

You would be better off, in my opinion, asking on briskoda for a recommended specialist, who could be paid to do a proper diagnosis.

On 17/01/2022 at 09:38, randompunter said:

Hi,

 

The car has done 65000 miles and is on variable service interval. It was serviced last week when the spark plugs were changed.

 

Fuel lines and fuel filter were inspected as part of service and air filter was replaced.

 

Ashley

A friend of mine had similar problems, his workshop went straight to the fuel line filter as the most likely cause and the cheapest starting point, problem solved.

Mine is petrol..i don't think I have fuel filter. 

Guys, what do you suggest me to do? To be honest, i am confused. Someone please narrow down me to start keeping it in mind that I am very novice.

 

N.B: if it was fuel filter then i should have misfire recorded for all the filters. 

Edited 3 February, 20224 yr by automass

Well, if I were the OP then I would google something like "changing coils on a VW 1.4tsi" and see what videos come up on the subject just to see what is actually involved.

Even if he chooses not to do it himself then at least it gives an idea of time involved and likely charges for swapping around.

 

More VW's out there than Skoda and the engines are identical.

Edited 3 February, 20224 yr by Gerrycan

1 hour ago, automass said:

Mine is petrol..i don't think I have fuel filter. 

Guys, what do you suggest me to do? To be honest, i am confused. Someone please narrow down me to start keeping it in mind that I am very novice.

 

N.B: if it was fuel filter then i should have misfire recorded for all the filters. 

See the previous replies dude, you can’t diagnose and fix these as a novice, even that Motor Continental place you went to are guessing 

4 hours ago, automass said:

Mine is petrol..i don't think I have fuel filter. 

 

 

ALL petrol's have a fuel filter..its built into the pump unit in the fuel tank on the MQB platform cars...

 

To swap the coil packs & spark plugs, you need sockets, spark plug sockets, ratchets & torque wrenches.....& it sounds like you have NONE if these....I suggest if you have no intention of buying any tools that you find a better more competent garage to take you car to, to diagnose & fix the faults...

I mentioned it before but @automass needs to check the brake servo vacuum pipe for air leaks (splits at joints) which if so, allows the inlet manifold to draw in air, messing up the fuel air mixture and so cause running issues. A simple test is after turning off the engine, wait 2 minutes and then press the brake pedal. If the pedal feels normal, and there is assistance still available (a soft shush as you push indicates vaccum being released as assistance is applied). You should be able to do this at least twice before the brake pedal action becomes hard. If there is a leak, the pedal will feel hard on first application with no assistance available.

 

To remove the coil packs requires a special tool, otherwise its extremely easy to break them when pulling.

 

 

If the plugs have been in 40,000 / 4 years since last change then they need changing or at least removing and inspecting.

Edited 3 February, 20224 yr by xman

I appreciate all the suggestions guys. I can definitely try what xman said. By the way guys, is it normal to see mist of oil in air inlet. Please see the pictures.

15 minutes ago, automass said:

By the way guys, is it normal to see mist of oil in air inlet. Please see the pictures.

 

Not sure, oil could either be from leaking turbo oil seal or more likely from the pcv valve that is connected to the airbox (not sure exactly where). Open up the air box and check for oil there and on the air filter in which case its pcv sourced, oil mist from crankcase. There is always going to be some, but if its a lot then it might indicate something not right. Could be piston blowby causing overpressure in the crankcase, or simply overfilled oil, the oil seperator should recover most of the oil before it gets to the pcv.

 

If the car is not consuming oil I wouldn't worry.

1 hour ago, xman said:

 

Break didn't feel hard at all. I pressed quite a few times and it was always normal. My spark plugs were changed in 41,600miles (11months ago) for the first time since the first registration of the car . Now the car has 60600miles on the clock. Coil plugs were never been changed.

I have had my Ignition coils and spark plugs changed. drove the car for 4 hours afterwards and diagnosed with OBD11, but no problem in any of the cylinders were detected (as of yet). fingers crossed for the upcoming days. My original coils and spark plugs didn't look bad though. if they were faulty would they not be broken or damaged physically, just wondering?

 

Coils break down internally , the insulation on the coil winding breaks down due to excessive voltage and/or temperature and they start sparking (aka tracking) internally, reducing the voltage and energy of the spark delivered at the plug at the same time causing further damage internally. Eventually they die completely. All without any physical evidence visible externally.

 

Without examing your plugs, its difficult to judge whether your opinion of "not too bad" is justified. Excessive gaps due to wear of the electrodes is a common precursor to coil failure as a much higher voltage is required to initiate a spark, and this places a greater stress on the coil internal insulation which can lead to them breaking down.

 

Sometimes, and it used to be common with VAG OE, coils are just poor quality and not up to the job.

Edited 4 February, 20224 yr by xman

@automass please let us know after few days of driving your car with changed plugs and coils how it is now.

Hi,

I have been scanning almost every day but no problem were detected at all. It seems ignition coils were faulty in my case.

 

N.B: I'll keep scanning and in case problem reoccur, I'll update the post here.

Edited 7 February, 20224 yr by automass

Guys, sorry to say problem has come back. No power loss or nothing..just stop/start stoped working and after scanning i found the same code with same cylinder misfire. 

Does it mean that my original coils were not faulty? So what else i can do now? Where is OP gone?

I'll open up a new threat under Stop/Start doesn't work.. So guys please excuse me for quitting this thread.

On 08/02/2022 at 11:05, automass said:

I'll open up a new threat under Stop/Start doesn't work.. So guys please excuse me for quitting this thread.

Hi.I have same issues with misfire on all cilinders.Have you solved your issue?

2 hours ago, Kizotina said:

Hi.I have same issues with misfire on all cilinders.Have you solved your issue?

Hi,

 

So, I got the details of VW specialist and was in communication with them, when the problem just stopped. I haven't been able to reproduce the problem since, despite several somewhat aggressive attempts to precipitate it. That's with no further intervention since my initial post and only a week or two following the service that I referred to.

 

Prior to that, it was not easy to replicate, but it happened regularly. I have really tried since, in the same scenarios, to no avail.

 

I am an a barely even an initiate in such things, but I would hazard something in a  filter that has moved or disintegrated. Or maybe it was all a dream...

My problem has also not been fixed permanently. its randomly keep coming back. 

I have changed my Ignitions coils (all of them)  December 2021 then couldn't see misfire. Just couple of weeks ago when my stop/start gave me signal that it has got error, I ran the diagnose and found the Cyl3 misfire detected. So this time i changed the spark plugs as my Ignition coils were newer than the plugs. well, I got them changed a week ago and got the Ignition coils swaps. No problem first few days and now yesterday and today i saw the stop/start error. Ran the diagnose and this time two faults. Multiple cylinder as well as cyl3.

 

I was even thinking to ask in this forum tonight about it. This is like pain in the back side..

just to add something here that i don't feel engine is loosing any power. it is just stop/start stops working when misfires detected. 

 

Please somebody help us with this mysterious problem.

 

 

Edited 21 July, 20223 yr by automass

My engine has misfires only in idle with AC ON,for now.Than it starts rattling and EPC light shows on dash.

On 22/07/2022 at 00:30, automass said:

My problem has also not been fixed permanently. its randomly keep coming back. 

I have changed my Ignitions coils (all of them)  December 2021 then couldn't see misfire. Just couple of weeks ago when my stop/start gave me signal that it has got error, I ran the diagnose and found the Cyl3 misfire detected. So this time i changed the spark plugs as my Ignition coils were newer than the plugs. well, I got them changed a week ago and got the Ignition coils swaps. No problem first few days and now yesterday and today i saw the stop/start error. Ran the diagnose and this time two faults. Multiple cylinder as well as cyl3.

 

I was even thinking to ask in this forum tonight about it. This is like pain in the back side..

just to add something here that i don't feel engine is loosing any power. it is just stop/start stops working when misfires detected. 

 

Please somebody help us with this mysterious problem.

 

 

 

Just to update my post, I had figure out what was causing the false misfire (False misfire-cause there was no loss of power or anything) issue. I used to keep OBD2 connected to the port all the time. As  i took it off and it's been more than months it is not giving me any false misfire issue. Couple of weeks ago i ran the diagnose and left the OBD2 connected and guess what within two days i got the similar misfire issue. Hence i realise that, OBD2 was the culprit what was causing this issue. So anyone having similar issue, make sure you check your electrical components or gadgets are not causing the issue.

 

 

 

On 03/10/2022 at 22:23, automass said:

 

Just to update my post, I had figure out what was causing the false misfire (False misfire-cause there was no loss of power or anything) issue. I used to keep OBD2 connected to the port all the time. As  i took it off and it's been more than months it is not giving me any false misfire issue. Couple of weeks ago i ran the diagnose and left the OBD2 connected and guess what within two days i got the similar misfire issue. Hence i realise that, OBD2 was the culprit what was causing this issue. So anyone having similar issue, make sure you check your electrical components or gadgets are not causing the issue.

 

 

 

Has your car been ok since ? I’m am currently having exactly same issue but don’t have anything conected

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

See classic's posy of 2 February and Xmans's of 3rd February, plus a battery in low state of charge (but the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warnings) can cause all sorts of odd problems so check the battery a couple of hours after the car has parked up, engine not running, and that battery and earth connections are all tight and in good condition.  auotomass put about start/stop and Kizotina about having a/c on both of these might (or might not) relate to low battery charge.

 

If the battery is low fully recharge it not just top it up and just driving it often isn't sufficient to fully recharge.

 

As automass has found a scanner can introduce issues and worries, another computer program on top of all the ones in the car that can have faults, issues and brain-farts, as with everything best not to rely on just one source of information and get other conformation.  You would hope higher level garage and certainly Dealership scan tools would have less errors and issues.  The scanners need regular updating and certainly before use on the vehicle. 

 

I'm not sure that leaving any scanner connected all the time is a good idea, if only for the fact of automass's experience.

 

Edited 3 January, 20233 yr by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.