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Scout Haldex Differential Noise

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Hi

So I have 2 Octavia Scouts (my 6th &7th Skoda) 2016 & 2019. My 2016 manual one has developed a load noise coming from the rear diff/ Haldex unit. Have you much experience with this? It sounds like a bearing failure. As it’s only 5 1/2 year old with 58k on it I’m rather disappointed. Would Skoda typically cover this with goodwill as it is deemed as a for life product? I’ve been reading that the gen5 seems to have the odd issue 🥺

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  • Sure! The shop which removed the diff is the VAG service center Elbatron https://forum.vwclub.bg/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=44549&start=180   They don’t repair diffs and transmissions

  • I believe some members here chose Febi and Swag.   Btw I sent my differential for rebuild. It was that roller bearing as I had thought at the beginning. The workshop took me €150 for rebuild

  • Cradle is loose  or differential is loose in the cradle .

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Much depends on whether it's the differential or the Haldex.  I'm not sure which one you're suggesting is "for life".   VAG dealers have a service interval for Haldex oil changes of 40K miles which, arguably, is twice as long as is prudent.

 

Also, they do nothing to clean the gauze filter on Haldex 5 or change the paper filter on Haldex 4.   Failing to do this will inevitably lead to clogging and premature failure of the unit.

 

Do you still have drive to the rear wheels?

  • Author

Hi

Yeah I still have drive. Cornering isn’t so hot if applying the power!

You sure it's a bearing noise and not the rubber doughnut on the propshaft? 

  • Author
39 minutes ago, skomaz said:

You sure it's a bearing noise and not the rubber doughnut on the propshaft? 

I can never be sure of anything! Noise gets louder from 40mph. My own mechanic has said to leave it over to Skoda for their opinion but he’s confident in coming from within the diff, and possibly a carrier bearing. He is a damn good mechanic, but his speciality would be Mazda

My 2015 scout premium 135 KW diesel with 166 K Km has rapidly developed an increasingly loud bearing whine from the rear over the last few weeks.

Noise is not related to steering loads or engine loads - It is still there while coasting.

Discovered yesterday that I have no rear drive!    Full throttle takeoffs on dirt roads just light up the front wheels withthe rear wheels rolling over the loose dirt created.

Took it tothe mechanic today.  He tells me the right output bearing on the diff is the bearing noise.  And that VAG only sells complete diffs.

Seems he did not remopve haldex pump to clean screen when he changed Haldex oil late last year so that might explain the lacjk of drive.

More worrying is the possibility of having to get a complete diff.

Anyone know if these diffs can be overhauled?  are the bearings available?  I am in Australia but there are specialist diff repairers who can probably do the job if the parts are available.

I know thjere are Haldex pump kits available if that is the problem with the rear drive.  Hopefully that's the worst outcome for the Haldex.

 

Quite possible it was incorrectly serviced. It is very easy to confuse drain and fill plugs for the diff and haldex sections. Leading to dry diffs or haldex or incorrect oils filled in each bit.

 

Also the the rear propshaft coupling is a common source of haldex related noise. Check that first, its a simple visual check.

 

Several threads on the subjects on various forums here if you do a search for haldex.

 

I would think its possible to overhaul a haldex, provided there is not too much or advanced damage.

 

 

 

Edited by xman

On 01/03/2022 at 19:05, trevh said:

My 2015 scout premium 135 KW diesel with 166 K Km has rapidly developed an increasingly loud bearing whine from the rear over the last few weeks.

Noise is not related to steering loads or engine loads - It is still there while coasting.

Discovered yesterday that I have no rear drive!    Full throttle takeoffs on dirt roads just light up the front wheels withthe rear wheels rolling over the loose dirt created.

Took it tothe mechanic today.  He tells me the right output bearing on the diff is the bearing noise.  And that VAG only sells complete diffs.

Seems he did not remopve haldex pump to clean screen when he changed Haldex oil late last year so that might explain the lacjk of drive.

More worrying is the possibility of having to get a complete diff.

Anyone know if these diffs can be overhauled?  are the bearings available?  I am in Australia but there are specialist diff repairers who can probably do the job if the parts are available.

I know thjere are Haldex pump kits available if that is the problem with the rear drive.  Hopefully that's the worst outcome for the Haldex.

 

I'm having the same issue. Down here in Tassie, my MY15 Scout has a whirring noise coming from the diff at around 30kph and gets really loud over 65-70kph.

Mechanic recons it's the pinion bearing or carrier bearing, and had a quote to replace the whole diff at $8000!!! Surely the bearing can be replaced if that is the issue?

There is a video on Youtube by a guy in NSW who replaced the bearings in a golf allroad which is AFAIK identical to the Octavi Scout. :

 

My Mechanic has been over it with his stethoscope and reckons the noise is the Drivers side carrier bearing.  Exactly what is shown in the video.  He has queried his usual transmission and diff guys about a rebuild and has done a search on parts locator.  He thinks he has found one with low Ks.  Will let me know costs Monday.  Much simpler to remove replace rather than have the car sitting around without a diff while the rebuild is done.

The bearings mentioned in the discussion with this video are all listed by aussie suppliers.  Actual availability could be a problem with COVID supply chain issues.. 

And the special double sided seal on the pinion between the Haldex and the diff, which was not replaced in the video, could be a deal breaker for professional workshops.

Seems the filter screen on the pump had not been cleaned when my Haldex oil was changed before Christmas.  When he removed the pump the screen was blocked.  Has cleaned it and replaced the pump but there are still open circuit errors on the pump motor reported by the diagnostics.  Hydraulic pumps do not like running with no flow so the failed motor is probably no surprise.  So at the very least I need a new Haldex pump - $319 at VAGParts.  Seems the Haldex should have its fluid changed  and the screen cleaned every 30000km  Mine has only been done twice in 160000 km!

with all Skoda service history and info online it is not always easy to work out the service schedule.

 

Trevor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Legendary Trevor, thanks for this info.

 

Please let me know how you get on, and the costs associated with a second hand diff.

 

Cheers, Dan

I've got a similar issue with my 2014 elegance 4x4, slight whine from diff area which wasn't there before i took it back to the trader I bought it from to fix the 4x4 system, allegedly it had a reconditioned pump and haldex oil changed but it comes back with a whine and stone chips in the windscreen, so its either had what  they claim and they took it rallying to test it or they've stuck a functioning 2nd hand diff under the back end and still took it rallying. 

 

either way when the system kicks in it does so with a light thump and when doing its self test mod from a stand still it does it with either s single light thump or several ones up to 15 mph so a service is on the cards at the very least.  

This "self test mod" will presumably be some B.S. that the garage have fed you?

 

The only time I ever feel anything from the Haldex coupling is occasionally when reversing out of a parking space on full lock, very occasionally, it is the controller pre-emptively engaging the Haldex and a slight bit of transmission wind up before it releases and very occasional.

On 04/03/2022 at 13:14, J.R. said:

This "self test mod" will presumably be some B.S. that the garage have fed you?

 

The only time I ever feel anything from the Haldex coupling is occasionally when reversing out of a parking space on full lock, very occasionally, it is the controller pre-emptively engaging the Haldex and a slight bit of transmission wind up before it releases and very occasional.

 

Bad choice of words sorry, the pre emptive engagement would better describe it, my previous car ( a freelander 2 with gen 2(?) haldex) did the same test but was similar to what you describe, with my Octavia, it does it in a straight line or with fill lock makes no difference and you definitely feel it to some extent every time you pull away in some format either a light thump or series of light thumps up to 15 mph. 

Something is amiss then, we agree on the pre-emptive engagement or whatever phrase is chosen (I don't think mine is a good description) and what it does, it should never be felt when pulling away in a straight line as there would be no transmission wind up unless the tyres were different rolling diameters.

 

The Haldex plates should engage and disengage without being felt, it sounds like they are sticking and not releasing smoothly, even then in a straight line there should be no noticeable effect except during full on acceleration.

 

That said mine is the only vehicle I have driven with a Haldex coupling but my comments are based on a good understanding of how the system works through the VAG self study guides and working on it, much of my knowledge is learning from my mistakes and they don't get bigger than when I drained (not) the Haldex fluid to service it!

Found another diff.

My mechanic has found a complete diff/Haldex from an Audi that has done 60000 km.  He can supply and fit with new fluids for $3100.  With 3 months warranty.  

Seems like a lot for a simple worn bearing that is readily avilable.  All three diff bearinga are available in Australia for $50-70 each but finding someone who is happy to do the work is the problem.  And the double sided seal between the Diff and the Haldex may be difficult.  In the video from PT he carefully preserved it and did not replace it.  I suspect this would be a game stopper for most professional transmission shops.  They could not warranty the work if they cannot replace the seal.  Does anyone know the part number for this seal?  I willh have a unit ready to be overhauled in a week or so.

 

 Trevor

 

  • Author

Hi

My local Skoda dealer has just confirmed the worse…. Rear bearing in the diff has failed and a complete new diff is required. Been quoted just over £5,000 for the repair/ new diff. For a 58,000 mile car that is ridiculous. Looks like all the Skodas in my drive might need a new home 😢.

 

The dealer doesn’t believe Skoda will offer any goodwill but with us having had 7 Skodas you would think it would account for something.

Second hand ones are £2-300 on Ebay.

  • Author
19 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Second hand ones are £2-300 on Ebay.

At the risk of sounding daft…. Where? I can’t find any Octavia Scout Rear Diffs (apart from 1 in China) for a 2016. Maybe I need to searching for something else that is compatible.

Correct, use the part number for your search.

 

There are no different ratios for different vehicles because the transfer box takes drive to the rear wheels after the front differential, so all the transfer boxes and all the rear diffs for all the vehicles have the same ratio which makes parts swopping much easier.

 

I will no doubt be proved wrong now and happy to be so if it adds to my knowledge.

 

Second hand diffs are cheaper if they come without the Haldex pump and controller, despite the best efforts of mechanics using the wrong hole percentage wise very few fail in service as they are really robust so the breakers can't get shot of them, I have followed them listed for 6 months with the price dropping.

On subject of wrong holes etc I've searched on here for the correct viscosity of oil for the rear diff but everywhere it just brings up the haldex oil figures as that is the main subject as I'm pondering if they have put haldex oil in the diff and maybe the haldex is dry resulting in the snatching if i can cal lit that through not being wet enough so want to change both. 

  • Author

Hi everyone

I don’t suppose anyone knows what the significance of the last letter is of the final drive part number. Apparently I need OCQ525010S. A few about with different letter!

 
Thanks

It is the revison number, the higher the letter the later the revision, the later revisions will be backward compatible.

 

In the absence of a known weakness that was resolved on later models do not assume that a higher revision letter means a better product or quality, the quest for cost saving in materials, machining and production time can often mean later components are not as good or robust as earlier, the 6 speed concentric slave cylinder being one of them.

 

I only concern myself with revision numbers on electronic controllers like the body control module, steering wheel slip ring etc, there it can be very important, some are "low line" revisions for budget models and dont have all the required inputs & outputs. For the diff I just searched for the basic part number and VW, VAG, Skoda etc.

  • 1 month later...

New diff from Audi, 58k km, fitted with new fluids.  A$3100.   Driving away made it clear just how noisy it had been.  and the Haldex now works correctly.

But now I have a clunk when the body is laterally loaded from side to side.  And have not been able to get it back to the shop.

Had a look underneath, all the bolts are tight and I could not find any movement anywhere wit a tyre lever.  

 

Any Ideas?

 

Trev

  • 1 month later...

Hi.

I also had a noisy differential at my Octavia with 210000km and decided to take it apart. It was the same situation with the bearing at the right side as in the video above. Changed the bearing and checked the axial clearence and it was way too tight. To obtain the correct clearence i had to take away 0.6mm from the shims. My theory is that the "negative" clearence is the ground cause to the bearing failure and since the right side bearing is smaller its the one failing first. Damage at the bearing seems to be caused by too high pressure at the rollers. Seems unnormal so many having this noisy problem on the same type of differential from the same side bearing. New bearing was about 70€ instead of replacing entire unit for way more...

20220504_201855.jpg

By changing the bearing you will have changed the preload, the shims are there for selective assembly to cope with the manufacturing tolerances of the bearing, the diff carrier and the housings, it is normal that you would have to use a different shim thickness to get the correct preload on a new bearing and does not mean that the old bearing was running too tight.

 

 

Edited by J.R.

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