Scout Haldex Differential Noise

[J.R.]

18 minutes ago, Dellbert said:

mines out  diff strip tomorrow  ..

Please update us with your progress, you are breaking new ground here for the Northern Hemisphere!

[Dellbert]

8 minutes ago, J.R. said:

That is not enabled as a link, it looks like a file on your computer.

[Dellbert]

11 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I'm not even sure that the rear tracking (toe in angle) is adjustable on the rear, what happens is the axle becomes misaligned and is not at 90° to the vehicle centre line (thrust angle) and the same can happen at the front, when its the rear its a very serious matter as one wheel will be toeing out making for snap oversteer.

 

When its the front you just have to apply some steering input to maintain a straight trajectory.

 

I made up a measuring fixture using a laser spirit level set to the wheel rims and measuring the distance to the B post aimed from all 4 wheels, the rear axle was very slightly out, the front by a long way, I could not apply enough force to the rear subframe retaining bolts to loosen them so had to align the front axle to the rear rather than both to the vehicle.

 

Now I have a decent battery impact wrench they might loosen, they wouldn't for my air one.

 

I like the idea of raising the shell from the subframe, thankks for the suggestion, the only drawback would be the vehicle would have to remain in place or sit on dollys, I think it will make the whole job easier though, some brake bleeding being the only drawback but as long as very little fluid is lost then the ABS block wont need purging.

dont split the pipes unclip from the subframe  they stay on the shell then

[J.R.]

I'm working from probably a mistaken memory, I was thinking that the subframe contained the rear suspension, driveshafts, rear hubs and wheels, the whole rear end, from what you have said it now sounds like the suspension and wheels remain on the vehicle.

 

So basically remove exhaust, remove propshaft coupling (easier said than done), remove driveshafts, release subframe bolts and raise car to remove subframe and diff unit?

 

I know I have missed some details like Haldex connector, brake pipes etc.

[Dellbert]

16 hours ago, J.R. said:

I'm working from probably a mistaken memory, I was thinking that the subframe contained the rear suspension, driveshafts, rear hubs and wheels, the whole rear end, from what you have said it now sounds like the suspension and wheels remain on the vehicle.

 

So basically remove exhaust, remove propshaft coupling (easier said than done), remove driveshafts, release subframe bolts and raise car to remove subframe and diff unit?

 

I know I have missed some details like Haldex connector, brake pipes etc.

i havent ive  taken the whole lot out in one hit 

loosedn driveshafts

disconnect brake pipes from sub frame

disconnect abs and haldex wiring

take off calipers (leave pipes on calipers )

release flexi from subrame

tie up calipers clear

undo 4 subframe bolts

lowerer subframe

lift body 

remove diff from subframe . 3 bolts   multi spline heads and replace with new as old ones will be rusty in the splines .

 

[J.R.]

Thanks, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Loosen driveshafts I presume you mean the outer bolts while you have the weight on the wheels and the handbrake/in gear to react against the turning moment.

 

You have convinced me that your way is better, I like the caliper removal!

[J.R.]

It's probably a more sure way of replacing the guibo coupling without grief moving the engine forward, while its all out the bushes etc can be checked.

[Dellbert]

3 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Thanks, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Loosen driveshafts I presume you mean the outer bolts while you have the weight on the wheels and the handbrake/in gear to react against the turning moment.

 

You have convinced me that your way is better, I like the caliper removal!

LOOK AT THE PICS 

The inner driveshaft bolts 

do not disconect the caliper  will send a pic tomorrow they are still connected to the pipes on the car ..

[J.R.]

Its hot here and I have brain fade!

 

I meant removal of the calipers from the rear hubs, I thought for a moment that I must have said disconnect.

 

Surely the CV bolts can be undone once the crossmember is removed to avoid struggling under the vehicle?

[Dellbert]

1 minute ago, J.R. said:

Its hot here and I have brain fade!

 

I meant removal of the calipers from the rear hubs, I thought for a moment that I must have said disconnect.

 

Surely the CV bolts can be undone once the crossmember is removed to avoid struggling under the vehicle?

Sure i just found it easy with a long extension  before unbolting the prop ..

[Dellbert]

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Its hot here and I have brain fade!

 

I meant removal of the calipers from the rear hubs, I thought for a moment that I must have said disconnect.

 

Surely the CV bolts can be undone once the crossmember is removed to avoid struggling under the vehicle?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ueh-6ZbC_NQ

[captain uncertain]

Wow – 'shop grafting gents!  I've just watched the Aussie and Dutch Rear Diff removal (and servicing) videos. Well beyond my pay-grade!   Question, I've been told I need 0BR525010Q rear diff, but lllparts.co.uk says the Q model replaced by L and S variants. Is there any way of finding out which 'part number' models will fit my Skoda please?  Prices are such that I might have to 'send the diff away' to be rebuilt (and lose a (summer) month of car use!). Thanks.

[captain uncertain]

Slight aside – any thoughts on which coupling to go for? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/drive-shaft-coupler-10807/skoda/octavia/octavia-5e3/108649-2-0-tdi-4x4?criteria[100][0]=H

 

I was going to opt for FEBI BILSTEIN as I've heard of BILSTEIN (shocks on my Panda)

[fr1nklyn]

I believe some members here chose Febi and Swag.

 

Btw I sent my differential for rebuild. It was that roller bearing as I had thought at the beginning. The workshop took me €150 for rebuilding it, hopefully the gaps requirements are met and no noises will be observed when the local garage fits it back on the car next week.

 

Most likely I will need to pay local garage €300 for removing and fitting back the diff.
Plus €90 for haldex and diff oils. 🥹

 

And around €50 for shipping costs as the workshop which changed the bearing is 500kms from my city..

So I think the final price will be around €600-700, hopefully 🙄

[Dellbert]

1 hour ago, fr1nklyn said:

I believe some members here chose Febi and Swag.

 

Btw I sent my differential for rebuild. It was that roller bearing as I had thought at the beginning. The workshop took me €150 for rebuilding it, hopefully the gaps requirements are met and no noises will be observed when the local garage fits it back on the car next week.

 

Most likely I will need to pay local garage €300 for removing and fitting back the diff.
Plus €90 for haldex and diff oils. 🥹

 

And around €50 for shipping costs as the workshop which changed the bearing is 500kms from my city..

So I think the final price will be around €600-700, hopefully 🙄

very cheap for all the bearings ...

[Dellbert]

6 hours ago, captain uncertain said:

Slight aside – any thoughts on which coupling to go for? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/drive-shaft-coupler-10807/skoda/octavia/octavia-5e3/108649-2-0-tdi-4x4?criteria[100][0]=H

 

I was going to opt for FEBI BILSTEIN as I've heard of BILSTEIN (shocks on my Panda)

both are good makes  how much is a genuine one

[fr1nklyn]

18 minutes ago, Dellbert said:

very cheap for all the bearings ...

Only the roller bearing was changed, the rest were looking like new.

[Dellbert]

the shaft output ones ?

[fr1nklyn]

They call it tapered roller bearing, exactly the one shown in this video with P/N LM 503349/QCL7C:

and in this post in a Russian forum as well:

https://www.drive2.ru/l/620840890964932544/?page=0#comments
 

There also other forums mentioning same bearing issues on VW Golf R and Audi A3. This fault isn’t rare..

[Dellbert]

19 minutes ago, fr1nklyn said:

They call it tapered roller bearing, exactly the one shown in this video with P/N LM 503349/QCL7C:

and in this post in a Russian forum as well:

https://www.drive2.ru/l/620840890964932544/?page=0#comments
 

There also other forums mentioning same bearing issues on VW Golf R and Audi A3. This fault isn’t rare..

while its apart im going for the lot like the australian

[fr1nklyn]

38 minutes ago, Dellbert said:

while its apart im going for the lot like the australian

I would do the same if there was a rebuild kit with all the bearings and stuff like on the Mk2. But in my case there is no such kit for Mk3 and I had to wait for long time for some of the bearings to be shipped( not something I like in the summer months).

 

The bearing they changed was available in the workshop. They said it’s also used on many diffs on BMWs and is prone to failure there as well.

Edited 1 July, 2023 by fr1nklyn

[Dellbert]

On 01/07/2023 at 18:16, fr1nklyn said:

I would do the same if there was a rebuild kit with all the bearings and stuff like on the Mk2. But in my case there is no such kit for Mk3 and I had to wait for long time for some of the bearings to be shipped( not something I like in the summer months).

 

The bearing they changed was available in the workshop. They said it’s also used on many diffs on BMWs and is prone to failure there as well.

Going by the australian guy the bearings should be available once you have the numbers from the bearings  mines a 2015 built car so a ml3 ?  i will post numbers if i get them ..

[J.R.]

Please do, it would reduce the downtime when I do the job if I can get the bearings in advance otherwise I will simply measure them, I have been specifying bearings for over 4 decades.

 

It would be ironic if the bearing is the same one as used on the Lotus Elan differential and my Maytag commercial washing machine as I have several in stock, it was underspecified in both those applications as well!!!!

[captain uncertain]

 

Help please – got an option on a 0CQ525010L differential that I'm told will work for my diesel car (VIN TMBMJ7NE9F0112414) but also been told a diff for diesel is different (no pun intended) to a petrol one and the diff I've been offered is coming from a petrol car.

 

Are DIFFs fuel specific? Thanks.

[Dellbert]

22 minutes ago, captain uncertain said:

 

Help please – got an option on a 0CQ525010L differential that I'm told will work for my diesel car (VIN TMBMJ7NE9F0112414) but also been told a diff for diesel is different (no pun intended) to a petrol one and the diff I've been offered is coming from a petrol car.

 

Are DIFFs fuel specific? Thanks.

i couldnt get a specifc answer which is one reason im rebuilding    . if you have different ratios and the haldex cuts in at the very least you will ruin  rear diff propshaft  transfer box. if you really must ue the car fit outer cv joints remove diff and propshaft maybe ..