@StewartasbIf you get them out it would be interesting to see photos of them both side by side to try and ascertain the difference as there are 2 7-ZAP pages quoted in replies giving different info. This could be based on original fitment - central locking with or without remote or other details. Someone may also see something that is not really obvious on initial comparison as I would expect some resistance when fitting such as a sprung tab. As pointed out the forum is about learning/knowledge so really this post requires a clarified close out.

I agree that it would be interesting.

 

First thing to note Stewart is that they can be buggers to get out even when in the original positions, I had a right struggle with the drivers side one on the missus's car not long back.

As far as I know/remember, it had never been removed before so it may be that a bit of corrosion on the outside of the casting interferes with the retaining ring arrangement enough to cause it to not release as designed.

 

One of Hatboy Harvey's vids shows him having a bit of a wrestling match with one from the outside.

 

This page shows handedness, but not sure exactly why: LLLParts

 

This image pinched from the thread you linked earlier Keith shows that at least one of the raw casting parts appear to be ambivalent/ambidextrous before they are assembled  (alternate left/right part numbers both on it):

 

Some nice clear photos in this ebay listing of a 6Y0989168E right side one here: Skoda Replacement Door Lock + 2 Keys - 6Y0898168E **Genuine New Skoda OEM Part** | eBay

If anyone fancies staring at them for long enough to spot a difference between topside and bottomside view??  I'm not seeing one straight away, but my eyes are old.

It's this bit that interacts with the locking ring within the door, if I remember right:

 

Well there are some glaringly obvious difference between top and bottom views of that (one, right side) ebay lock, arrowed in pink on one image, but it's the lock ring 'catching bit' details that are the problem I think.

 

If it were symmetrical, both views would have their yellow highlighted 'arrow' features pointing towards the front of the vehicle (green arrows on each view) but they don't here, forwards in left image, rearwards in right.

 

So I reckon that's why the locking ring is failing to release, because these features are facing the wrong way on both sides of the car, with locks swapped across.

 

 

Does anyone know where I can get one of the little black grommets from the one which covers the hole where you put the t20 torn into to release the barrel.

They're called "blind" or "blanking" grommets. You order them based on the diameter of the hole. You should be able to find either the size you need or an assorted pack fairly easily online, maybe eBay or Amazon.

Cheers Steve now you've given me the correct name I could find them thanks.

Not sure if this is the same thing that Wino is pointing out, but I was looking at (replacement) lock barrels yesterday and noticed that these 'hook' bits are handed....

 

Edited 22 April, 20224 yr by TMB

Edited 22 April, 20224 yr by TMB

Good spot Lee. Not the same as what I was showing, but definitely appear to be relevant.

Well I tried for a few hours today but cannot see whats holding them in  stripped off window carrier and top trim etc im pretty dure its domething on the barrels holding onto the lock ring but need handle off to be able to get at it and handle won't come off unless I destroy the carrier which I'm not willing to do.

Do you think if I was to unscrew the adjustment screw all the way so it came out the locking ring would then drop off as i dont recall much else holding it in place.

17 minutes ago, Stewartasb said:

Do you think if I was to unscrew the adjustment screw all the way so it came out the locking ring would then drop off as i dont recall much else holding it in place.

100%, it happened to me 🙈

so that might be my best course of action then so i can get these lock barrels out.

Issue resolved it was in fact as TMB pointed out this was holding the barrels into the lock ring, I took a long screwdriver and applied gentle pressure to the bottom of the lockring which allowed the barrels to slide out. Thanks all as always lesson learnt lol :P