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Checking transmission fluid level on 1999 Skoda Felicia 1.3MPI manual gearbox - help please!

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Well, this is embarassing.  Changed engine oil, filter and spark plugs on my Felicia yesterday and thought the next logical step is to check the transmission fluid level. According to the Haynes manual, I need to remove the speedo cable retaining bolt, then slide out the retaining plate and withdraw the speedometer drive assembly from the transmission. Apart from the awkward position and difficulty in reaching the required bolt, plate etc. it sounds simple.....

After removing the retaining bolt, there was no retaining plate to slide out, just a large circular washer, which I assume is what is meant. There is a knurled end to the speedo cable holding it to the transmission case. After much cursing and difficulty I managed to get a pair of long nose pliers on this and eventually unscrew it and remove the cable. Now it appears that the drive assembly remains in the transmission case, as I have just the square end on the speedo cable and a corresponding square hole in the gear assembly still in the transmission. I thought perhaps this would lift out so I could check the fluid level, but I cannot lift it - not using grips of pliers etc. for fear of damaging it.

My question is - is there something else I'm missing holding the drive in the transmission that I've failed to slacken, remove etc. Does the transmission need to be in neutral (currently in second gear)?

Any hints or tips much appreciated - I don't want to give up and just reassemble everything after so much struggling.....

Many thanks...

Robin

Could you add a picture please?

  • Author

Thanks, I'll try to add some photos tomorrow. The problem is not so much how to drain and change the fluid - I'm aware that new fluid is added through the speedo cable drive aperture, but unfortunately when I unscrewed the speedo cable, the gear assembly remained in the transmission case, flush with the casing, making it hard to grip. I'm not sure if the gear should just pull out or if it needs to be twisted and pulled and I don't want to drop anything in to the gearbox....

Thanks for the replies so far....

bmAAAgEL7-A-1920.jpg

 

Thanks to @D.FYLAKTOS there is a picture in one of the links. You can see the retaining plate in the picture above. You slide it away from the speedo cable and pull the cable upwards. Sometimes the drive gear stays inside the gearbox. Under normal circumstances, you can pick it up easily using your fingers. From what I've read from previous posts, some users try to undo the speedo cable by twisting it. That's the wrong way to remove it. Because forcing the cable causes the drive shaft to strip the gear's center causing it to drop inside the gear box.  @RicardoM says, if it's plastic, no problem but if you drop a metal gear inside of your gearbox, the car is out of order until that gear is removed from the gearbox.

 

 

Don't worry if you somehow damage and drop it inside the gearbox. (PLASTIC ONLY!)

1 hour ago, Sympol said:

 the gear assembly remained in the transmission case

 

F-1520202.jpg

 

Hobbyists,jewellery guys etc use Side plier like this one.

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTVsiMTkVawbrJ9jGZhq7A

 

Tweezer.

  • Author

Thanks for the replies. I've taken a couple of photos. When I removed the retaining bolt, there was no locking plate, just a circular washer (see photo 3). The speedo cable didn't seem to want to pull out, so I thought I had to unscrew the knurled end of the cable. But when I did this, the cable came free but left the drive gear assembly sitting in the transmission housing (photo 1).

I'm assuming from the comments and info already given (thanks all) that the speedo cable should just pull out from the transmission without having to unscrew the knurled end, and that I just didn't pull hard enough (for fear of breaking something. What's happened to the locking plate I've no idea - I can only assume that perhaps a previous owner lost the original and replaced it with the large cirular washer. My next step - unless someone has a better idea - is to reattach the speedo cable to the gear assembly and try to pull the whole thing out and hope it's just a bit stuck! And that nothing falls off the end into the gearbox.

Any more thoughts very welcome...

IMG_20220725_105453.jpg

IMG_20220725_105537.jpg

IMG_20220725_105613.jpg

I thought that you problem was only the latest part, the teflon gear.

Now the photo shows that your problem is ''bigger'' but as i can see it you can try pull it out with a plier after you use a cleaner-spray to remove any dirt around it and slack it gently.

 

CYMERA_20220725_193659.jpg

  • Author

Just cleaned everything up, screwed the speedo cable back in place (but not the large washer/retaining bolt) but cannot budge the gear out of the transmission case. Reluctant to pull too hard on the cable, perhaps I can try levering it out with a screwdriver? I'll leave it for tomorrow....

A degrease spray (even a carb cleaner) can help plus some gently knocks (from all sides) with a hammer like this

 

KRT904007.jpg

 

will help for more slacking.

  • Author

Thanks again. Managed to spray cleaner around the assembly, then gripped the knurled nut carefully with vice grips and rocked it gently while pulling upwards and the assembly popped out. The shaft and gear remained as it is a loose fit in the body, but I was able to remove it easily. Next step is to make up a proper locking plate, drain the old fluid, refill to correct level and replace the gear assembly and speedo cable and lock it in place. Thanks for your help and advice - now I know how it goes together (and comes apart) for the next time....

IMG_20220726_124953.jpg

5 hours ago, Sympol said:

refill to correct level and replace the gear assembly and speedo cable and lock it in place.

 

Take you time and do not overfill.

 

Try not to pull the cable too much otherwise you will have problem with the white clip inside the dashboard (connects the cable with the back of the factory gauge).

Also don't put grease in the end of that square wire rope, let it dry to ''click'' better.

On 26/07/2022 at 11:59, Sympol said:

drain the old fluid, refill to correct level

I was going to suggest you do this rather than just topping up but you will get a better drain and clean if you get the gear oil hot/warm, and leave to drain as long as reasonable, as it will remove more existing oil and containments and leave less residue of both in the box.  This means the new fresh oil and its effects are less diluted by the residue of old oil and containments.

 

Personally I pour some warmed new fresh oil into the box as the hot/warm drain gets to point of just drips for the warmed new fresh oil to act as a mini flush out.

 

You can also check the old oil for any metal bits in it.

  • 6 months later...

Hello all, i've tried to find this piece ( 002409611b ) but so far had no luck. Maybe someone have any hint on it? Thank you

 

Thank you for the reply D.FYLAKTOS. the only available is the one from the first link but sadly is not compatible. 

Thank you so much for those links. Ive managed to find them in fitinpart website (first link). \m/

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