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Sound deadening project


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22 hours ago, Vlady said:

What did you use for boot floor and under rear seat? Butyl sheets or closed foam? I might do it too! :)

My next job is to put carpet into front door bins!

Found it, page 1 of this thread shows photos with the material used. 👍

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Ordered today stuff for my boot floor and hopefully will be enough for under rear seat space. Yesterday tried to remove everything from the boot (spare wheel, jack etc) to see if I can get there to attach the isolation material. Looking forward to do it!

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36 minutes ago, Vlady said:

How do you remove carpet clips like the one on the picture below? 

20220923_161602.thumb.jpg.5fd24a7578640294f7705312344293f4.jpg

 

I used one of my plastic trim removal tools with a split end and inserted it around the neck of the clip. It pulls straight out by levering the tool.

 

429995244_max.thumb.jpg.7d30e9651c9d0f10247787929e9a7bf0.jpg

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Thanks for sharing.

So these clips do not need to be rotated, twisted or anything? Just pulled back to unclip them?

I have the same set of tools, red one.

Edited by Vlady
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5 hours ago, Vlady said:

Thanks for sharing.

So these clips do not need to be rotated, twisted or anything? Just pulled back to unclip them?

I have the same set of tools, red one.

Just like that. I only stumbled upon these clips when removing the plastic side trim from the rear seat sides. They are pushed onto a threaded peg of some sort. Didn't find any in the trunk, where I suppose yours are?

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9 hours ago, Jorgeminator said:

Just like that. I only stumbled upon these clips when removing the plastic side trim from the rear seat sides. They are pushed onto a threaded peg of some sort. Didn't find any in the trunk, where I suppose yours are?

Hi, nope, mine are under rear seats too.

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Hi, sorry for high jacking the thread, I was applying the insulation and broke the clip/fixing on the door lock, see below.

20220929_173035.thumb.jpg.40df684f958b9d01bb0f9e8b4386e0bc.jpg

Does anyone know the part number for this part and can it be changed on it's own or the whole mechanism needs to be swapped? At the moment the front passenger door can't be open from the inside!

The photo above is showing the driver door fixing which intact and working.

 

It is not easy to remove the trim, couple clips were broken. Grrr

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Will start mine probably this weekend.

As my car doesn't have acoustic windows, i'm actually planning to add those. Of course side only.

Hopefully tomorrow i will get parts (windows+seals). Since i will be anyway removing windows, will use mats inside of the door. Let's see what will be the result.

For now only planning front door, and will see later. Probably trunk, rear door and front wheel arches.

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23 hours ago, Felix2021 said:

Will start mine probably this weekend.

As my car doesn't have acoustic windows, i'm actually planning to add those. Of course side only.

Hopefully tomorrow i will get parts (windows+seals). Since i will be anyway removing windows, will use mats inside of the door. Let's see what will be the result.

For now only planning front door, and will see later. Probably trunk, rear door and front wheel arches.

Cool! Do update us when you progress. How much were the laminated windows? I don't have the acoustic windows either, and the sound from cars passing by is mostly heard through the window after I soundproofed the doors.

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On 29/09/2022 at 20:42, Vlady said:

Hi, sorry for high jacking the thread, I was applying the insulation and broke the clip/fixing on the door lock, see below.

 

Does anyone know the part number for this part and can it be changed on it's own or the whole mechanism needs to be swapped? At the moment the front passenger door can't be open from the inside!

The photo above is showing the driver door fixing which intact and working.

 

It is not easy to remove the trim, couple clips were broken. Grrr

Thanks

Ouch 😐 I would guess that the cable comes as a complete unit, but I'm not sure.

Maybe I was lucky with my clips staying intact, did not break a single one 🤔 Some of them slid out of their door card sockets when pulling off the trim, but that actually made them easier to remove from the door after the door card came off.

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17 hours ago, Jorgeminator said:

Cool! Do update us when you progress. How much were the laminated windows? I don't have the acoustic windows either, and the sound from cars passing by is mostly heard through the window after I soundproofed the doors.

I ordered it as some winter package. Acoustic windows + heated windshield + heated front seats and it was around 500eur.

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@Jorgeminator do you have any advice or the steps how to remove rear wheel arches in the boot? I have an estate. Or maybe if you can grabe some screen shots of the repair manual? I have a nasty rattle in the right one and it needs to be fixed. Otherwise I will go crazy one day. 😒

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4 hours ago, TheUltraRunner said:

Is there any more hidden bolts or rivets beside these marked on the pictures? Do you know if the plastic piece and the carpet are like one piece? or they can be separated?

 

image.thumb.png.3a97f0dd0e155dd445ecafe817f9dcd6.png

 

Both bag hooks must come off and if you have the lashing eyes, there's a bolt in each of them as well.

 

image.thumb.png.4a1d6fb3e36e7440339f907962d6778c.png

Edited by Jorgeminator
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Ok, so first step been completed.

Front side windows replaced. If anyone is interested, part numbers are:

5E3845022 (right side)

5E3845021 (left side)

Nothing else needs replacement, seals are the same. In Poland i have paid 865 PLN per windows, so roughly 180€ in dealership. Tried to find used windows, but only found them in Sweden. It made no sense, as price (with shipping) was just 20€ lower, than new ones.

Replacement is rather easy, once door card is removed.

 

image.thumb.png.d0c8bd0573cb006a00f393fc76e2e478.png

 

1. Remove 2 plastic caps marked in green.

2. Lower your window, so that you can see holes/openings in the glass.

3. Use screwdriver or something similar to push plastic windows latches, that you can see through hole in the glass (sorry, haven taken pictures of this part). Push gently, but rather deep. At the same time try to move the glass up. Once it's release, you can remove it. 

4. Release straps holding wiring (yellow marks). Do not cut them, as those are not regular straps you can replace with anything!

5. Take off plug marked in red. Disconnect all plugs.

6. Remove 2 torx screws in point marked in red.

7. Rotate green "screws" by 90 degrees counter-clockwise.

Now you can remove whole window lift part, gaining access to inside of the door if you wish to use the mats there. If not, you can skip points from 4 to 7.

Assemble everything in reverse order.

That's it.

One note - after this, you will need a diagnostic interface to clear airbag error. Round part with yellow plug is impact sensor.

 

I have used the mats in the doors, on speaker frame and on the midrange driver mounting place on the door card. Mat is 3mm thick.

Also used accoustic foam (self-adhesive) on the door cards.

 

Now door and window feels much more sturdy. Sounds completely different when you knock on it/hit it. Also give very satisfying closing sound.

Inside you can hear less noise from passing cars, but it's still present. I was surprised, that it has also reduced a bit tyre noise and suspension sounds. In general improvement is quite good, at least up to 100-120 kph. At 140 kph difference seems to be little bit lower, as tyre noise is dominating. I guess will need to also do wheel arches, and maybe part of the floor.

Also one can still hear windo noise from the windscreen. Not replacing it yet :)

Please remember, that i did all at once, so i cannot really say what would be the effect on replacing windows only, without dampening the doors.

 

Dampening the doors has improved audio significantly. It still lacks lower bass, but at least now bass much better controlled, more punchy. Sounds much better in general. Now i have to do a rear door :)

 

Edit:

One more photo - inside of the door. Haven't used the mats on reinforcement, as i don't think it resonates that much, and didn't want to add more weight to the door. They are heavy already now :)

20221016_152145.thumb.jpg.f8cd523014bee1dfcfaa98329faca700.jpg

 

Edited by Felix2021
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12 hours ago, TheUltraRunner said:

Thank you for this.

So hooks must go out completely? Not only the bolts behind the hooks? How do you get them out? 🤔 

 I can answer myself now. 😁 

There is no need to take out hooks completely. Only bolts behind the hooks.

Now I know how to disassemble the boot side liner in my sleep. Since I needed to disassemble it 3 times today. 🤯  

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15 hours ago, Felix2021 said:

1. Remove 2 plastic caps marked in green.

2. Lower your window, so that you can see holes/openings in the glass.

3. Use screwdriver or something similar to push plastic windows latches, that you can see through hole in the glass (sorry, haven taken pictures of this part). Push gently, but rather deep. At the same time try to move the glass up. Once it's release, you can remove it. 

 

 

@Felix2021 I guess you can't remove this whole center assembly without detaching the glass right?

How do you do exactly step 3 in reverse? When you are putting everything back together? How do you attach these plastic latches back to the glass?

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No, you can't. This assembly is basically a window lift, so you have to detach the glass.

Good question qbout point 3 :)

You just slide the glass in. You have to be carefull, so that it slides exactly in correct place and gently push it into the latches. When you see it, you will know what i mean.

You might need to use screwdriver again to help window to slide in. Push it exactly same way, as during disassembly, so that glass can slide into the latch. I had to do it for one latch.

Too bad i haven't taken any pics of that part.

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Makes sense. Thanks.

 

I guess I'll leave that part alone and not disassemble it. I don't feel comfortable taking it apart. I'll just apply some mats on the exposed metal and some foam on the inside of the door panel. The as Jorgeminator did. 

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