New brake discs-pads for Felicia, any suggestions?

[D.FYLAKTOS]

Gentlemen, it's time to change my Brembo brake discs (my brake pads are Ferodo in good condition)

 

 

 

 

 

so i would like to hear your suggestions.

1) No more drilled discs, i won't buy grooved, the float discs don't fit so i will return to the old-factory style, here are some options:

 

ATE

BOSCH

BREMBO

FERODO

Fri.Tech.

FTE

VALEO

ZIMMERMANN

 

There are some more here in the local market but i don't know them and i don't want to take the risk.

 

2) Should i make a combination of EBC brake discs are EBC brake pads? The Green or the Yellow ?

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

Additional informations:

 

Here is what EBC suggests for my Felicia:

 

EBC Ultimax Front Pads: DP1064 (i had them in the past, nothing special and i don't want them again)

EBC Greenstuff Front Pads: DP21064

EBC Yellowstuff Front Pads: DP41064R

EBC Standard Discs/Drums: Front D808

 

and here is one of the ''risks'' that i mention but not from local market.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165508222118?hash=item26890f0ca6:g:YxIAAOSwImRYj1Si

 

🙄

[R_Blue]

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

There are some more here in the local market but i don't know them and i don't want to take the risk.

I've used Valeo discs + some local brand pads. First month everything was smooth. After that, they started squealing. I blame the pads however.

 

I don't think drilled/slotted discs are a must have for light weight/low power road cars. Use solid discs with a peace of mind.

 

If you want a real brake upgrade, it's a good time for you to consider Ford Sierra caliper + larger diameter disc upgrade. This upgrade requires 14" or larger rims. You already have this.

 

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

and here is one of the ''risks'' that i mention but not from local market.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165508222118?hash=item26890f0ca6:g:YxIAAOSwImRYj1Si

 

🙄

I understand what you mean. Even the product picture is wrong.

[Thefeliciahacker]

brembo rotors 

yellowstuff pads if you fancy a bit of a spirited drive

[D.FYLAKTOS]

12 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

brembo rotors 

yellowstuff pads if you fancy a bit of a spirited drive

 

I already have Brembo discs (drilled but i will install Palin this time) and i remember you have the EBC Yellow.

Happy with sport driving and emergency braking in city boulevard?

 

Does anyone knows about the Tarox brake pads?

https://www.tarox.co.uk/product/front-tarox-brake-pads-skoda-felicia-1-3-strada/

these are for sport use only?

 

Tarox also makes for our Felicia 3 types of brake discs

https://www.tarox.co.uk/?s=&ymm_search=1&orderby=name&post_type=product&_make=Skoda&_model=Felicia&_year=2000

grooved-drilled-curved grooves but the prices are too high.

[R_U_AFA]

Avoid the ATE ones, I got a pair that didn't quite fit. They were about 1mm too big, and fouled again the caliper carrier.

Edited 5 November, 2022 by R_U_AFA

[mikefelicia]

Why not stick with the STD disc's and pads my Fellys brakes are ok unless you have a fast Felicia or you are a fast driver if you are a fast driver then you need a modern faster car and not a old Skoda Felicia and God go with you.

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

7 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

Why not stick with the STD disc's and pads my Fellys brakes are ok

 

 

Not enough.

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/?do=findComment&comment=5663261

 

 

7 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

unless you have a fast Felicia or you are a fast driver if you are a fast driver then you need a modern faster car and not a old Skoda Felicia and God go with you.

 

IF i had the money to buy a new car (a faster car) plus the money to pay the damages every year (i park the car in the road which means scratces-small hits etc) plus the extra money for insurance and government taxes plus the money for the extra accessories (ECU-chip, new suspension,new rims and tyres, new strut barce-anti roll bar, cotton gauze filter, custom exhaust, racing belt etc) then i would aksing here.

So i stick with the car that i have. 😉

 

People are dying  ✝️  beside the Speed, some from excessive food-drink consumption while sitting in the couch watching all day tv.

[D.FYLAKTOS]

Few months ago i made an upgrade to my brakes, i already had Goodridge braided steel brake line so:

I changed the Brembo Drilled discs with Plain, the Brembo brake pads with EBC Yellow and the normal DOT4 brake fluid with ATE TYP 200 Racing.

 

Here are some photos of that day:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Although the brake disc was brand new he put it for measurement and before the first use apply a spray, that's why looks like this (yes the calipers need new coat layer).

The ''break-in'' period was 850 Km and after this start pushing things, the result is far better than previous combination. No noise, more tough feeling at the pedal, no so much fade, braking distances went smaller and i was far more confided braking after a straight line before a turn.

So far i have about 3000 Km and i am extremely happy because let's face the truth i didn't had any other choices, i asked the mechanic (on of the Top here in brakes) and said with that 14" of course i can't use 4 piston calipers, if i wanted to use bigger calipers-discs from other car i had to show him that some other drivers did it-posted this in car forum and proved after long term use that's OK otherwise he didn't take the responsibility for ''experiments".

My brakes now are far better than ever, i don't know in the future if i make another upgrade, i have to search about it deeper with the ''Safety first'' in mind.

[nta16]

Solid disc better than drilled!  Whatever next!!?!!  😁

 

Subject to overall braking balanced front and rear, (even) better quality and grip tyres, and accept perhaps shorter life from them but at about an average of 4,000 per year you should see a good few years use and enjoyment out of them.

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

13 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Solid disc better than drilled!  Whatever next!!?!!  😁

 

Drilled discs had a lot of noise compared to the Plain especially annoying in Summer in Mountain Roads with window down, keep in mind that we are talking for stock dimensions and not Floated.

I have used in Motorcycles Plain-Drilled-Grooved brake discs, soft-hard brake pads, stock-metallic brake lines etc.

 

My TOYO Proxes tyres have about 6000 Km of usage.

[nta16]

46 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

not Floated

What is Floated?

 

 

47 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

My TOYO Proxes tyres have about 6000 Km of usage.

What usage do you get out of them before you need or want to change them ?

 

Toyo UK HQ is in Northamptonshire (county) (or was) and of course EBC is a family owned business founded and HQ in Northampton (town of) (or was) so I have had a few Toyo tyres in the past, never Proxes, but like all others their products changed.  I have never used EBC products though a mate does.

  

[Thefeliciahacker]

With that I aggree remember I was the one to advise on stock brembo rotors with yellowstuff pads nonetheless avoid using racing fluid

[Thefeliciahacker]

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

my dude maybe instead of brake upgrades you should focus on the rust starting to form on the rocker panel

[D.FYLAKTOS]

7 minutes ago, nta16 said:

What is Floated?

 

Floating brake discs, i wrote it wrong.

 

8 minutes ago, nta16 said:

What usage do you get out of them before you need or want to change them ?

 

Every 10.000 Km the front go back and after 10.000 Km the same, that's a common practise here although i do it sooner.

Some years i haven't the chance to go to Mountain Roads so i don't push them hard, so there is no a ''stable'' programme.

 

There are no many options in 175/60/14, Toyo are very good and thank God still exist, here is an example.

https://www.skroutz.gr/c/578/lastixa-autokinitou/f/1583648/175-60R14.html?o=175%2F60%2F14

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

37 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

on the rust starting to form on the rocker panel

 

It's in the schedule, the right side is fixed.

 

42 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

avoid using racing fluid

 

Higher boiling point than normal DOT 4.

[Thefeliciahacker]

25 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Higher boiling point than normal DOT 4.

MUCH more hygroscopic

[D.FYLAKTOS]

1 minute ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

MUCH more hygroscopic

 

Yes, i change it after 2 years as i do with the Coolant.

The whole combination in Braking is far the best i had ever, except the Stock pads (which are for grandpa driving) i have tested EBC Black, Ferodo, Brembo brake pads.

[nta16]

On 31/12/2023 at 19:55, D.FYLAKTOS said:

There are no many options in 175/60/14, Toyo are very good and thank God still exist, here is an example.

https://www.skroutz.gr/c/578/lastixa-autokinitou/f/1583648/175-60R14.html?o=175%2F60%2F14

I always found Yokohama tyres very good when I used them but that was a few years back and not the two in that link. We put Nexen N blue HD plus (185/60/15) on the Fabia to replace the factory Nexen N blue(?) and they were not much of an improvement, both models totally unsuited to spirited driving like you do.

[D.FYLAKTOS]

10 hours ago, nta16 said:

I always found Yokohama tyres very good when I used them

 

Michelin Pilot Exalto and Bridgestone RE-88 no more produced in 175/60/15.

Yokohama A539 has not good index in Fuel Economy: F, Wet Handling: C, Noise: 72dB

[Thefeliciahacker]

20 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Michelin Pilot Exalto and Bridgestone RE-88

Use Turanza T005 175/65/R14 much more improved comfort and protection also excellent fuel and wet indexes Fuel: C Wet: A

[nta16]

5 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Yokohama A539 has not good index in Fuel Economy: F, Wet Handling: C, Noise: 72dB

I take the (IIRC self-submitted) tyre label markings with a god measure of salt.  When the tyre labelling first started the Yoko a-drives got lower scores than a couple of other tyres I used on the same car but in reality the Yoko a-drives used on the car were far better than the marking and far better than the other tyres I tried on the same car which had higher label scores.  Perhaps the make up of the Yoko a-drives had changed and were not as good by the time the tyre labelling came into force, I don't know as very unfortunately for me they stopped doing the a-drives in the tyre size I needed.  I knew the a-drives were good when I used them on the car but didn't realise how good until I used the other tyres (with higher label scores).

 

I am like you I accept guides but only as guides and have enough driving experience to know the differences that suit me and my style of driving to any particular car.

 

As I put I have no experience of the Yoko A539 let alone what might be the latest version of it, the F for fuel economy might suggest grip and wet grip C suggest they're better in the dry - but I have no real idea.

 

IIRC I took Yokos off my then brand new MX-5 Mk2 1.6 because they gripped too well in the dry (I always take it easier in the wet anyway and you'd certainly want to in a (rear-wheel drive) Mk1 and Mk2 MX-5 (I've no idea about later models) so I changed them despite the loads of tread left on the set of four (I used to be able to afford such things then as the cars needed to be fun) to tyres with very good wet grip and not as good as the Yokos dry grip (a Rainex model IIRC).  I also had steel wheels on that car, the salesman said it was the only MX-5 on steel wheels he'd even seen leave or come into the Dealership.