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Is the battery dead?

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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

ETA: OP is in Switzerland so following info is for UK viewers 

 

1 hour ago, Vahids said:

The Halfords battery is expensive - IIRC(?) the Halfords battery is Yuasa(?) if so then at time of this post Halfords reduced to £151.99 and Yuasa YBX9096 from Tayna (other suppliers are available) £136.48 including delivery which is normally next day if ordered before 6.30pm. -  https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx9096/

 

Edited by nta16
ETA:

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  • Battery replaced this afternoon. No problems just a bit fiddly getting the cover & the battery clamp back in place.   At the first start after changing the battery, engine started fine (

  • Yes dead like a Monty Python parrot.   Take a picture of the current battery in full so a replacement part can be sourced.

  • Then they do not have the appropriate knowledge or tools, any decent VAG diagnostic tool such as OBD11 or VCDS can change the battery type from EFB to AGM.   The issue of whether to code or

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12 minutes ago, varooom said:

EFB last 2x longer than an old 'Wet' type battery

AGM last 3x longer than an old 'Wet' type battery, roughly speaking

 

Given that the silver costs the same as the blue, then I'd pick the silver and have it coded in by the garage.

@Vahids @nta16

Remember he is in Switzerland, so he needs there or Germany for example.

He does have a Swiss site he can order from.

 

Forget Halfords/Tanya 🤝

2 minutes ago, Giff said:

Given that the silver costs the same as the blue, then I'd pick the silver and have it coded in by the garage.

Agree 100% I would fit the AGM over EFB each and every time.

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I don't think anyone really has any clarity on the situation. Except perhaps amongst the makers of the management modules and their software writers.  I don't know any of them unfortunately.

 

I suspect the risks of problems with or damage to the new battery are wildly exaggerated, preying on peoples fears in order to extract revenue for dealerships.

Certainly if there's no type change I can't see how anything is risked.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Breezy_Pete

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4 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I don't think anyone really has any clarity on the situation.

 

The garage told me to get an EFB and that they would not be able to "code in" an AGM.

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That sounds like good advice, stay with same type for minimum complication.

1 minute ago, Giff said:

 

The garage told me to get an EFB and that they would not be able to "code in" an AGM.

I guess they don't know how to use their tools, it's simple to swap if your tool can talk to the car.

If you go with EFB, just fit yourself and don't worry about adapting the battery unless you trust them with the task.

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1 minute ago, varooom said:

unless you trust them with the task.

 

I trust them but I want to do as much as possible on my own given how much they charge per hour of work :) maybe I should look for a different garage if these guys "don't know how to use their tools"...

1 minute ago, Giff said:

I trust them but I want to do as much as possible on my own given how much they charge per hour of work :) maybe I should look for a different garage if these guys "don't know how to use their tools"...

I would recommend having a 2nd place up your sleeve, this adaption/coding is simple task to do.

 

You should as I have said, be able to simply drop in the new EFB and just enjoy it. (once you have cleaned up the terminals)

Dash will look like an Xmas tree, but all good once you have done a simple calibration

26 minutes ago, varooom said:

@Vahids @nta16

Remember he is in Switzerland, so he needs there or Germany for example.

He does have a Swiss site he can order from.

 

Forget Halfords/Tanya 🤝

Sorry yes I originally put OP is in Switzerland and info was for UK viewers but events overtook me and the post was not completed and lost, will edit in now.

 

I will look for info to help giff add in his location (later).

 

 

5 minutes ago, varooom said:

Dash will look like an Xmas tree, but all good once you have done a simple calibration

I think there might be error codes, which will not be seen until a scanner is used, but not necessarily dash warnings, as far as the car is concerned it just a battery disconnect which you can do for various reasons and lights and warnings  can go out with use of the car as the computers 'learn' things have changed/improved.

 

The VW computer programs have their own brain-farts (not as many as me obviously) but they often sort themselves out or you 'turn 'em off-'n' on agen' in some sort of fashion.  Personally I'd like to reboot them as hard and far as possible but I know they'd make me suffer if I ever raised a lip to them. 🤣  

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

1 minute ago, PetrolDave said:

The issue of whether to code or not has been discussed on here so many times I've lost count - the downside of not coding the new battery is that the BMS assumes the old battery is still fitted until it learns that the battery is behaving like a much better battery and eventually adjusts its charging profile. Coding make that adjustment happen straight away, so things like start/stop will work much sooner.

In my single experience you can just disconnect the start/stop at the battery post until you get the 'coding' done, and clear any/all error codes.

 

1 minute ago, nta16 said:

In my single experience you can just disconnect the start/stop at the battery post until you get the 'coding' done, and clear any/all error codes.

Th side effect of disconnecting the battery current sensor is that the battery will be charged to 100% SoC not 80%, so the (very minor) regenerative braking effect will be lost and there will be a (very minor) increase in fuel consumption.

1 hour ago, Giff said:

 

and that means that it'll start the car but perhaps damage the battery/something else if not coded ASAP?

 

I need the car serviced anyway, I suppose I can drive it 1Km to the garage and ask them to code the battery in?

Re. point 1- yes, that is, unfortunately, a possibility - particularly if the type of battery is changed.

If your servicing garage has the facility to do this, that should work.

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12 minutes ago, PetrolDave said:

eventually

It's discussed a lot, but no one ever presents any evidence of what these changes to the 'charging profile' might be, or definition of what eventually might mean (i.e. it could be 5 drive cycles, it might be 50, or some other number, it's all guesswork).

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

31 minutes ago, PetrolDave said:

Th side effect of disconnecting the battery current sensor is that the battery will be charged to 100% SoC not 80%, so the (very minor) regenerative braking effect will be lost and there will be a (very minor) increase in fuel consumption.

Good points and accepted.

 

ETA: Not aimed at you or anyone other than the car manufacturers.

For the vast majority of vehicles' overall use thinking of these sorts of fuel savings is laughable - but something is better than nothing - I compensated by eating less until the coding was done. 😁

 

Edited by nta16
ETA:

I found this thread look for a replacement battery for my Octavia VRS 2L diesel as the winter draws in as its not very good at holding charge if left for a few days.

@Giff I am also in Switzerland but my car is fitted with 68Ah AGM battery.

Seems like 68Ah is replaced by 70Ah as a standard now.

 

I recommend Galaxus.ch to buy from. Very fast delivery & amazon quality customer service (available in English, German, French & Italian).

Payment by invoice, twint, creditcard, postfinance etc.

 

They have an AGM battery for 153CHF (from 3rd party swissbatt24)
Varta Silver Dynamic AGM E39 (12 V, 70 Ah, 760 A) - kaufen bei Galaxus

 

There is a filter on their website for Car Batteries where you can choose EFB type batteries:

Fahrzeugbatterie · Autobatterie - kaufen bei Galaxus

60Ah Varta N60 Blue Dynamic (12 V, 60 Ah, 640 A) - kaufen bei Galaxus 110CHF

70Ah Varta N70 Blue Dynamic (12 V, 70 Ah, 760 A) - kaufen bei Galaxus 140CHF

 

I have just ordered the Silver Dynamic for mine (AGM->AGM replacement). The garage wanted ~400CHF to change the battery & Im sure it would be a lesser brand than you can buy yourself..!!!

 

 

Gabbo

 

Edited by Gabbo

23 minutes ago, Gabbo said:

@Giff

They have an AGM battery for 153CHF (from 3rd party swissbatt24)

 

There are ~10CHf cheaper directly from Swissbatt.ch if you have a creditcard or postfinance card.

Varta N60 Blue Dynamic EFB 560 500 064 Autobatterie 60Ah | swissbatt24.ch

 

I used Galaxus as I already have an account & can pay by invoice/twint.

They sell almost everything, they are the Swiss equivelant of Amazon (with much better website) & have expanded recently to Germany & Austria.

 

Edited by Gabbo

On 30/11/2022 at 17:09, Breezy_Pete said:

It's discussed a lot, but no one ever presents any evidence of what these changes to the 'charging profile' might be, or definition of what eventually might mean (i.e. it could be 5 drive cycles, it might be 50, or some other number, it's all guesswork).

 

As a completely unscientific test, I will change my battery next week when it arrives & I'll keep an eye on how long it takes StopStart to work again.

After charging my current battery with an AGM charger it took quite a long time even during the summer before StopStart was active again but this is perhaps because of the state of the old battery.

Sitting on the driveway for months on end during the last 2 years weren't kind on it....

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

On 04/12/2022 at 09:37, Gabbo said:

As a completely unscientific test, I will change my battery next week when it arrives & I'll keep an eye on how long it takes StopStart to work again.

Be great if you could report back, thanks.

 

 

On 04/12/2022 at 09:37, Gabbo said:

After charging my current battery with an AGM charger it took quite a long time even during the summer before StopStart was active again but this is perhaps because of the state of the old battery.

I would think this might be the case and it would also depend on how long and and how fast the recharge was, as far as I know if the discharge is low long and slow then the recharge is best at long and slow and generally best done that way.  A fully recharged old battery will not be the same as a fully recharged new battery, they wear so even if you done a very long low, reconditioning charge off a smart charger it can only do so much.

 

Many leave it too later to recover a battery that been used and abused which is why I try to promote prevention rather than cure, recharge the battery before it gets too low.

 

The extreme weather this summer in the UK will have hastened the end for many batteries here, those that have not already been recharged or changed will be need one or the other as the cold weather really starts soon, I bet even more car batteries than usual will be replaced this season, some before they should have been and some as usual unnecessarily as a good (over) sale item.

 

Edited by nta16
spelling

1 minute ago, nta16 said:

as far as I know if the discharge is low long and slow then the recharge is best at long and slow and generally best done that way. 

 

Then you dont know very far but have an active imagination.

4 hours ago, nta16 said:

Many leave it to later to recover a battery that been used and abused which is why I try to promote prevention rather than cure, recharge the battery before it gets too low.

 

I know the damage was done to my car during the summer of 2021, working from home & within walking distance to the schools meant long periods of time without use & proper driving to keep the battery charged. 6-9 months of short & infrequent journeys. (also pretty bad on the brake discs as well)

When the winter hit, the battery performance had quite obviously deteriorated & I eventually bought a Bosch AGM charger to top up the battery the weeks I wasnt using it.

Basically I've got to the point that in the winter (~0° overnight here currently) it needs charging (or keeping warmer in the garage) if its left for more than 3 or 4 days without proper driving otherwise it wont start (or will just start).

 

 

Im back to driving ~80miles a day but even this is not enough with the current battery to enable StopStart anymore...

After getting stuck at a filling station yesterday as the battery couldnt even start a warm engine I eventually decided to bite the bullet & buy a new battery.

 

8 hours ago, Gabbo said:

 

As a completely unscientific test, I will change my battery next week when it arrives & I'll keep an eye on how long it takes StopStart to work again.

After charging my current battery with an AGM charger it took quite a long time even during the summer before StopStart was active again but this is perhaps because of the state of the old battery.

Sitting on the driveway for months on end during the last 2 years weren't kind on it....

With a good battery, charged to approx. 75/80% of full charge, stop-start should become available immediately. NB. not all new batteries will arrive fully charged. 

 Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

19 hours ago, Gabbo said:

Basically I've got to the point that in the winter (~0° overnight here currently) it needs charging (or keeping warmer in the garage) if its left for more than 3 or 4 days without proper driving otherwise it wont start (or will just start).

Unfortunately it sounds like you got the battery charger a bit late.  Following the car's Owner's Manual and battery charger instructions are needed to get the best from the recharging.  Presumably the Bosch charger has a regeneration mode, winter and maintenance settings, hopefully you will not need the regeneration mode with your new battery use and the experience you have now.  Just out of my interest which model Bosch charger have you got, if you want to say?

 

Warrior193 makes a good point that a new battery might not arrive to you fully charged so do check its state of charge is enough before fitting to your car.

 

Personally I would not be surprised if putting the new battery in good state of charge on the car allows the use of stop/start during or after the first reasonable length and use of the car, but I am often wrong.  After the test I would get all error codes cleared just in case they might confuse the VW computer programs, you might find there are more than expected from having the battery in a low state for so long, or I could again be wrong.

 

Good luck.

 

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