The filter has done its job but wherever the grit came from it will have been through the oil pump to get there, the oil pick up strainer will have caught any larger pieces.

 

Is it normal? I dont know but will dissect mine at the next oil change, perhaps you could fit a new filter to the Tiguan and check the old one as a comparison?

53 minutes ago, J.R. said:

..... the oil pick up strainer will have caught any larger pieces.

 

When my 2015 vRS's turbo grenaded itself and imploded, there was similar swarf and debris in the sump.  The engine was stripped, but found to have survived the ordeal - the garage commenting as per J.R.'s comment.  The oil pump was changed as a precautionary measure.

 

Gaz

Thanks for comments, might try and do the Tiguan filter but have ordered filter and sump for Octavia and will see what happens after cleaning pump.

 

• The HU66 lock pick didn't work on this car.
  • Appears they are either 9 or 10 pin locks, but could end up wasting more money so time to move on.
• Put charger on battery and alarm went off.
  • disconnected battery and put on charger to get fully charged.

 

Cheap lesson but now time to order keys and find panels.

Sorry to hear about the lockpick but I am not surprised.

 

Good luck with the rebuild, I hope you dont find any other nasty surprises.

 

I take it you still have not gained entry to the vehicle through the doors?

 

Is there a possibility that the hidden key might still be within the vehicle?

7 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Sorry to hear about the lockpick but I am not surprised.

 

Good luck with the rebuild, I hope you dont find any other nasty surprises.

 

I take it you still have not gained entry to the vehicle through the doors?

 

Is there a possibility that the hidden key might still be within the vehicle?

When you re-connect the battery, try to press the central locking button, the doors may not be deadlocked.

Put the charger on the battery and alarm started to go off straight away (3 seconds or so), could not open doors but disconnected battery and have left on charger overnight.

Will try it out with a full battery tomorrow, but probably drive neighbors nuts as cant turn alarm off afterwards.

 

This will allow us to try central locking if key is not inside vehicle..

 

Going to be a fun day..

 

 

As its an MQB platform car I'd suggest unplugging the alarm horn which is under the front windscreen in the scuttle panel section.....indicators will still flash when battery is connecteed...Only way is to disable the alarm using the remote keyfob.....or unplugging the main alarm control unit..

 

Well thanks to Briskoda.. a big saving.

Second hand headlight quote was $800.00 aud

Trying to find cheaper and no luck...

However this thread below popped up and terrific solution to the problem, great practical thinking by Skoda.

So now we should have headlight and bumper ($1,000.00 Aud), sump ($90.00),  sorted.

Just lock in front mudguard (still searching), keys ($2,000) and lower sump baffle (89.00) and we should start making headway.

 

Ok.. we have movement..

Had car opened and key’s made..

Keys open and lock doors, radio works.

Hooked up ANCEL VD700 and lots of issues but can’t read ecu.

Also dash does not light up and start button does nothing..

 

With battery connected it sounds like fuel pump or something is making zzz noises every now and again..

 

Guess we check fuses and go from here..

 

Assuming keys are programmed correctly if they unlock it but hoping gods start to smile on us soon..

How did you get the car open?

 

Were the keys made by VAG? If not then I don't understand how they could have programmed the immobiliser chip.

 

I just did a test on my 2015 Yeti, the results might give you some knowledge.

 

I have a dumb key with no chip that I use to get in the vehicle after I have been running, I removed my main keys from the ignition (it had been switched off for an hour) and used the dumb key, the instrument panel lit up and the maxidot said "key not found" or similar, engine would crank but not fire.

 

Sounds like you are correct to start checking the fuses.

Edited 21 June, 20232 yr by J.R.

How did you get the car open?

$2,000.00aud 🥲

 

The locksmith came and scanned the car and then sent data off to Germany to get info to program keys.

Have to check with them in morning as I couldn’t be there when they programmed it all in.

  Am I right in saying that if the car unlocks and the alarm doesn't go off, the programming is correct?

Edited 22 June, 20232 yr by ords

37 minutes ago, ords said:

  Am I right in saying that if the car unlocks and the alarm doesn't go off, the programming is correct?

 

That means the remote fob has been correctly paired with the car.

 

It doesn't mean the immobiliser has been programmed correctly to start the engine

On 22/06/2023 at 12:17, langers2k said:

 

That means the remote fob has been correctly paired with the car.

 

It doesn't mean the immobiliser has been programmed correctly to start the engine

On the MQB platform there is no OEM method of programming one without the other (at least for keyless entry that is) the procedure does both in the same session.

Hi Team, its been cold here in Australia.. (probably high for Europe) and have been crook, so not a lot happening...

 

Now starting to warm up and time to get back to it...

 

Looking to find part numbers for body panels and bumper..

Have checked docs on Hypermiler but cant seem to locate anything there.

 

Any good ideas of where to look?

 

 

@Breezy_Pete may be your saviour!

 

Otherwise sites like 7zap.com

Well it’s a nice day in Australia so got into it.

Put new sump, baffle and oil filter on. Topped up coolant.

Pressed the button and started first shot!.

Wow. That was a surprise.. no rattles or noises.. 

Goes forwards and backwards.. no noises..

But no brakes… pedal to the floor.

Worn set of pads in the back so I am guessing they did some home handy work and didn’t bleed the brakes properly or perhaps computer gremlin?

 

Passenger side window went up but doesn’t want to come down.. all the rest are good.

 

Now try and sus out brakes.. reservoir is full. So a bit of digging.

On 21/06/2023 at 13:09, J.R. said:

How did you get the car open?

 

Were the keys made by VAG? If not then I don't understand how they could have programmed the immobiliser chip.

 

 

 

There's various bits of software that can read the immobiliser PIN via the OBD port. On some more modern stuff, they have to take the clocks out and plug them in. 

They were able to scan it and get the info to work, but key program still had to come from Germany.

The only difference is that the aftermarket keys have to be closer to ignition button (150mm or so) considering how it got stolen this is not such a bad thing.

 

A few other things to fix..

- light switch was broken

- lhs mirror glass was on floor

- brakes - bleed and flush

- bumper (a lot of bits in this)

- lhs front guard

- lhs front door (will sort this out last as should pass roadworthy 

- internal clean

- cut and polish

- We got brakes bled by using a cheap pressurising system and brakes came up a treat.

- Front guard on.

- removed all bits from old bumper but the LHS fog lamp is busted…

- the bumper came without the holes for parking sensors but OEM unit is not too expensive, so will grab one of those

- sticky point is the driving aid sensors which have a hole about 28mm dia (as compared to 18mm for parking sensors).

The recommended part for cutting these holes is TME01.. can’t find info on these anywhere.

Has anyone came across this issue and found a solution?