Replacing rear discs and pads.

[Phoenixboy]

I decided to test the old grey matter today and replace my rear discs and pads, prior to putting it in for an MOT, only covered 29k on original rear discs and pads. Fronts are in better shape. Bit disappointed by the longevity of the rear discs.

First pictures of original disc.

Next picture of disc, pad and calliper stripped off the hub. 

The hardest part I found was taking off the calliper retaining bracket, had to buy a couple of M14 heads to do so, access very tight and the bolts were tight, but I got there eventually working off the ground on an axle stand and trolley jack. It would have certainly been easier from a lift. 

It's been over 10 years since I've changed rear discs, would have been unable to do so without a rewind kit, too. Which I already had. 

Last pic, finished job. 

Fronts looks a doddle to change. 

 

Edited 6 August, 2023 by Phoenixboy

[Schtum]

I see a handbrake cable which answers my question about how you managed it with a rewind kit rather than VCDS or a code reader.

 

Which discs and pads did you fit?  VAG kit really is made from cheese.  I'm just about to have the rears on our Karoq replaced at coming up to 4 years and 30k miles.  

Having said that, the EBC ones I fitted to the rear of my Yeti were only good for about 18k.  I fitted Pagid discs and pads to the rear of that and have a set of those going onto the Karoq as well.

[Phoenixboy]

Agree about vag being made of cheese, similar to Brembo these days. I just bought cheapies from my local motor factor. £40 for a pair of discs, £16 for the pads & £11 for the m14 bits. Plus 8 hours of my time, 2 of them spent driving around for parts, as the first set of discs didn't fit. Although admittedly I'm old & rusty.

I've used Pagid in the past & rate them, better than factory. Although I think a set of Pagid discs & pads were around £150. I can't see mine lasting any less than the factory ones fitted, time will tell. 

Last set of pads I've previously changed were on my previous 57 plate Astra H, I squeezed 60k out of those. 

Any idea what Skoda charge? £350? Gulp!

Edited 6 August, 2023 by Phoenixboy

[Schtum]

55 minutes ago, Phoenixboy said:

Agree about vag being made of cheese, similar to Brembo these days. I just bought cheapies from my local motor factor. £40 for a pair of discs, £16 for the pads & £11 for the m14 bits. Plus 8 hours of my time, 2 of them spent driving around for parts, as the first set of discs didn't fit. Although admittedly I'm old & rusty.

I've used Pagid in the past & rate them, better than factory. Although I think a set of Pagid discs & pads were around £150. I can't see mine lasting any less than the factory ones fitted, time will tell. 

Last set of pads I've previously changed were on my previous 57 plate Astra H, I squeezed 60k out of those. 

Any idea what Skoda charge? £350? Gulp!

 

I've found the drilled Brembos that I've fitted to the front of both our Karoq and Yeti appear to be holding up better than the OEM parts, so far.  Stopping with Brembo HP pads is better as well.

 

Yes, we were quoted £350, last week by the local Škoda dealership to replace the rears,  The local VAG indy, Star Performance is going to fit Pagid for £245 which is only £35 more than I paid for the Pagid rear discs and pads for the Yeti from Euro Car Parts. 

[Phoenixboy]

7 hours ago, Schtum said:

 

I've found the drilled Brembos that I've fitted to the front of both our Karoq and Yeti appear to be holding up better than the OEM parts, so far.  Stopping with Brembo HP pads is better as well.

 

Yes, we were quoted £350, last week by the local Škoda dealership to replace the rears,  The local VAG indy, Star Performance is going to fit Pagid for £245 which is only £35 more than I paid for the Pagid rear discs and pads for the Yeti from Euro Car Parts. 

I've not had experience with drilled brembo discs, but the brembo discs and pads fitted on my wife's previous Abarth 595 were like butter, only lasted 19k, I then replaced the rear pads myself with Brembo, they lasted 12k. Then decided to have the rear discs and pads replaced at a garage, as I didn't have time, they used Pagid, they lasted another 20k until we sold the car. The rear Pagid discs and pads were still going strong at the point of selling the car. 

I've used Pagid myself on many Vauxhalls and rate them. 

Wow £350 for VW pads and rear discs replacement. I'm behind on the prices. I certainly wouldn't pay that, would much prefer to use Pagid or anything else or even Mintex than the factory fitted stuff and use an independent to do so, if I wasn't going to do them myself. I'll certainly be replacing the fronts myself when the time comes, they look a lot easier to do than the backs, especially when you don't have a lift. 

Yes euros quoted me around £150 to supply only Pagid discs and pads for my Octavia. I decided to go to my local trusted motor factors and buy a cheaper set, instead. I've used the same supplier on and off for since the 80's, never had any issues with any parts they'd supplied no matter the price or make. 

I expect my nre rear discs I've just fitted at £40 to outlast 29k that the factory discs had previously lasted, but time will tell. The pads I took out were OK, they had plenty of meat left on them, around 50% left. 

The factory fitted discs and front pads seem to be wearing far better, as I'd expect at only 29k covered from new. 

The pads I used were Allied Nippon and discs, Juratek.

Pic of the M14 bit you need to remove the rear caliper support bracket.

 

Edited 7 August, 2023 by Phoenixboy

[Crash0090]

Good info! This is a job i've got to tackle on my Octy before the MOT. Just gotta grab a rewind tool 

 

thanks for sharing!

[Swirly182]

My discs and pads are original from Feb 2018 and have lasted over 52000 miles. New set in the garage ready to replace once we're back from Cornwall! Thanks for sharing the tool needed 👍

Edited 7 August, 2023 by Swirly182

[ords]

My rear pads & discs are original from 2013 and on 62K.  Front pads only replaced at 45K.

[Phoenixboy]

2 hours ago, Crash0090 said:

Good info! This is a job i've got to tackle on my Octy before the MOT. Just gotta grab a rewind tool 

 

thanks for sharing!

I managed to release the caliper bracket bolts going through the back of the rear spring using an extension bar and a wheel brace to get enough force to loosen one off the bolts with limited access. 

The passengers side back was even tighter, couldn't get the right angle going through the spring no matter how high or low I jacked my car. The other bolt I couldn't get to because of the rear exhaust silencer being so close. In the end I used a torque wrench with just a 10mm socket on to fit directly onto the M14 bit at the back of the bolt, there was just enough room for me to loosen the bolt with the suspension damper being close, too. 

It can be challenging, but half the problem is having the right equipment first. 

The fronts look far easier. 

[Gammyleg]

17 hours ago, Phoenixboy said:

The hardest part I found was taking off the calliper retaining bracket

 

If they are anything like the Superb, you shouldn't need to remove the calliper bracket. There should be enough room once the pads have been backed off to remove the disc without disturbing the calliper.

 

For my sins, i didn't realise that the pistons needed to be turned back in, I just pushed them back, with no sign so far of any damage or problems. Passed the MOT about a month after I did them.

[Phoenixboy]

50 minutes ago, Gammyleg said:

 

If they are anything like the Superb, you shouldn't need to remove the calliper bracket. There should be enough room once the pads have been backed off to remove the disc without disturbing the calliper.

 

For my sins, i didn't realise that the pistons needed to be turned back in, I just pushed them back, with no sign so far of any damage or problems. Passed the MOT about a month after I did them.

I don't think you could slide the discs in and out, as the part of the disc that fits over the hub was too deep. 

I tried to push them back without winding them, wouldn't budge. I also wound them back slowly due to the piston seal creasing, giving it time to reshape itself back to normal. Maybe a bit of silicone grease around the edge of the piston may of helped that. 

Well your brakes are still working, so I'd say no long term damage done by pushing them back without winding them. My brake fluid level lifted around half an inch within the reservoir, but there was no need for me to extract any before it overflowed. 

[Gammyleg]

Looking at your pictures again it does seem that the octy hub is about 2 or 3 times deeper than my Superb.

[Phoenixboy]

2 hours ago, Gammyleg said:

Looking at your pictures again it does seem that the octy hub is about 2 or 3 times deeper than my Superb.

This is my first Skoda, so I have no idea about superbs, apart from sitting in one & I liked it. Although my dad did own a few skodas back in the late 70's/80's. Showing my age. Back then everyone took the mick out of them, but in fact they were very reliable & kept your hands warm when you pushed them😂Actually his were reliable & very easy to work on, engines being in the back. 

I think some of the earlier Ocatvias weren't as deep. As the first set of discs which didn't fit were meant to fit an earlier model. Maybe 1 or 2cm in it. 

Edited 7 August, 2023 by Phoenixboy

[Phoenixboy]

Ironically I have the same job to do on my wagon (same engine & spec), as I did the last set by feel only.

Anyone know what the torque wrench settings would be for me to do this job again?

As the discs & pads are just about shot, the dealership gave it a full mot, but they came up as an advisory. 

Thanks. 

Edited 1 February by Phoenixboy

[Phoenixboy]

Also should I replace or reuse the rear caliper stretch bolts, if I need to replace them, anyone have their part number?

Thanks. 

[classic]

On my 2015 1.4 tsi the torque settings for the bolts holding the calliper to the carrier is 35 Nm. I got brembo discs and pads from Euro car parts and they came with new caliper bolts. The torque setting for the larger bolts that hold the carrier onto the wheel bearing housing are 90 Nm + 90 degrees. On mine there was no need to remove the carrier to get the disc off. I believe some 2017 onwards cars may have a different disc and that does need the carrier removing. The manual does state replace if removed, luckily I didn’t have to.

[Phoenixboy]

1 hour ago, classic said:

On my 2015 1.4 tsi the torque settings for the bolts holding the calliper to the carrier is 35 Nm. I got brembo discs and pads from Euro car parts and they came with new caliper bolts. The torque setting for the larger bolts that hold the carrier onto the wheel bearing housing are 90 Nm + 90 degrees. On mine there was no need to remove the carrier to get the disc off. I believe some 2017 onwards cars may have a different disc and that does need the carrier removing. The manual does state replace if removed, luckily I didn’t have to.

Thanks for the info, 100% on mine you have to take the carrier off to remove the discs as they're too deep. 

I don't suppose you know the part numbers for those stretch bolts I need to replace? They're a pig to remove from the ground, as I needed to go through the coil springs to get to them. They're even tighter on the passenger side rears, as the exhaust back box was also in the way. Either have to jack the car lower or higher to get an extension bar through the back of the spring to get to the caliper bracket bolts. Fronts look easy, in comparison. 

It would be much easier to do them from a lift, as I think you'd have a better angle to get them off using a toggle socket and longer breaker bar. 

I'm starting to put myself off, I could get them replaced for £200'ish at a local'ish independent using Brembo or similar quality discs and pads. Labour rates are a bit cheaper up north.  As they don't fit the cheaper stuff. 

I'm getting too old for laying on my back over the winter replacing rear brakes🤣

Edited 2 February by Phoenixboy

[classic]

I don’t know or have access to the the part numbers unfortunately. I would be willing to bet that 90% of garages doing this job wouldn’t replace them, and would impact gun them on and off….

If it was me I would reuse them once and not lose a minutes sleep. But, this is the internet, so cue someone to tell me all about the properties of such and such steel bolts rated to x or y Newton metres etc etc.

There is no fun in driveway repairs in winter. I’m with you on that, the older I get the less inclined I am to kneel down and lay under cars ! (except on a nice warm day when maybe I don’t need the car for a couple of days 😀.)

My car is doing about 20k a year and I did a service early and got it MOTd in August so I get to service it and pre mot it myself in the summer and do any jobs. Then usually in Jan or Feb it needs another service which I get done at a vag specialist so it keeps some official service history going and gets a good look over by a pro on a ramp. If mine needed discs and pads now, I’d take it in and avoid the cold.

Edited 2 February by classic

[Breezy_Pete]

Part numbers can be found here:

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ

[Phoenixboy]

Just for info, a lot of pads come with the stretch bolts, makes life a little easier. 

[J.R.]

Stretch bolts mon cul! - they are set screws threaded the length of the shank. They do have a dry threadlock on them though, or blue paint for the Chinese ones!!!!

 

I'm not sure what joker dreamed up all this stretch bolt nonsense but its getting out of hand.

 

Not a recent thing though, 40 years ago a (bullsh1tter) friend was a service receptionist at a Ford dealer and they used to bill for a new sump plug and washer with every oil change claiming that the threads stretched, once again threaded the whole length, a 20mm diameter threaded steel fastener going into an alloy sump, yeah that is really going to stretch and can't be re-used 🥴

[Phoenixboy]

Just priced up a set of pads, discs inc the 4 Streeeeetch bolts, £60 all in. So it looks like I'll be doing them again, myself within the next two weeks. 

Rung a local independent they wanted £270 to do the same job, buy using pagid parts. Skoda charge £400, gulp, last time I checked. 

I'm hoping it'll be a little bit easier next time round for me. 

Plus I've just bought a 24" breaker bar, also use a torque wrench, too. Didn't want the breaker bar too long as I'll be working from the underside of my car. 

[Phoenixboy]

Could someone confirm my torque settings for the stretch bolts (caliper to carrier), are 35nm for my car & the bigger, carrier to wheel housing bolts are 90mn + 90d?

2019 1.5tsi. 

This came in handy for general torque settings, inc caliper to carrier settings (35nm), couldn't find carrier to wheel housing settings though. 

https://tighttorque.com/cars/skoda/octavia-3

 

Edited 3 February by Phoenixboy

[Zymurgy]

I've changed all my discs and pads recently.  I put drilled discs on the front and standard on the back with EBC greenstuff pads all round. I'm impressed with the results, it's like a big hand grabbing the car from behind and pulling it to a stop.

[JGO]

Is it really necessary to remove the caliper retaining bracket? I'm pretty sure on my 2015 1,2 TSI it is sufficient to remove the caliper.