2011 Superb, 4x4 haldex 4, DSG DQ 250 gearbox MTZ, engine CFFB.

Rear diff oil: Manufacturers specs are G052 145 (75W-85 API GL-5). BUT, this oil is primarily choosed by VAG since it gives a bit better mpg due to is viscosity (thinner). For endurance, I use G052 911 (wich is 75W-90 API GL-5). It is marginally thicker, but gives more lubrication. 

 

Tools needed:

• 5mm HEX pipe
• ratchet
• bucket
• some kind of oil pump etc.

Get the car up, should e level when raised. Identify the fill and drain plug on you axle. Beware, do not mix up the haldex fill and drain plug. I would say that it is not easily mixed up, but have heard about some garages that actually drained the haldex oil instead...

Undo the fill plug with hex key before you undo the drain plug. It should drain approx 0,8-0,9 ltr of axle oil.

Torque the drain plug to 15NM. Manual says to replace it, but I didn`t replace it, it worked fine.

Use a pump with a 6mm hose to fill through the fill hole until it drips out in a steady flow. Close and torque to 15NM. Job done.

 

Picture layout:

1. Drain plug haldex oil (do NOT loosen)
2. Fill plug haldex oil (do NOT loosen)
3. Drain plug axle oil rear differential (5mm hex)
4. Fill plug axle oil rear differential (5mm hex)

I bet the oil that you drained out was as clean as the new stuff you replaced it with.

 

If that happens when you (think you) drain the Haldex it is a massive flag telling you that you have drained the diff by mistake.

 

Dont ask me how I know

24 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I bet the oil that you drained out was as clean as the new stuff you replaced it with.

 

If that happens when you (think you) drain the Haldex it is a massive flag telling you that you have drained the diff by mistake.

 

Dont ask me how I know

No mate, oil was not as good as new oil. Luckily, I did not drain the haldex, but the rear diff axl oil 😀 But, yeah, have heard abouth them draining the wrong one 😅

@rbhelle What was the mileage of your Superb, when you changed the rear differential oil? 
 

I should change my Haldex oil within one year, I just ask myself if I change the rear differential at the same time🤔…

Currently 116000km on the clock.

2 hours ago, Bap33 said:

@rbhelle What was the mileage of your Superb, when you changed the rear differential oil? 
 

I should change my Haldex oil within one year, I just ask myself if I change the rear differential at the same time🤔…

Currently 116000km on the clock.

Rear diff had approx 202 000km. So way past what it should. On the other hand, VW/Skoda/Audi claims that rear/front diff oil is "filled for life"....Anyway, do replace it and your car will have a much more pleasant life overall 🙂

It wont make any difference at all unless you have stupidly run the diff dry like I did by mixing up the Haldex and differential drain plugs, in which case the diff will need all the help it can get and I am soon changing mine again.

 

VAG are correct, the rear diff has such an easy life, is so well built and the modern oils so good that it never needs changing, and I can attest to this as when I mistakenly drained the diff oil that had done 79K miles with abusive fleet drivers (the clutch bore witness to that) the oil that came out was indistinguishable from new oil, that should have rung alarm bells for me but didn't.

An analogy would be to compare the rear diff with the front diff on a FWD car which does not even use differential oil and shares the gearbox oil, that diff transmits 100% of the drive torque 100% of the time that the vehicle is operated and never needs the oil changing although given what it does it would not be a bad idea.

 

The rear diff transmits 50% of the drive torque maybe 10% of the time so being generous endures say 5% of what the front one does and it has its own independant correct grade oil not being sheared and heated by transmission gearing.

Quick question my very helpful people and @rbhelle,

 

I'm having to drop subframe, engine, gearbox, transfer box etc to replace the leaking rear main oil seal (03L103171A) on my Superb 2014 L&K 2.0 TDI CR 4x4 CFGB engine.

 

So I'm taking the opportunity (hopefully once in a life time) to replace the lifetime differential oil in the front and rear axles.

 

However I'm not sure I have the correct part numbers for bolts 3 and 4 in the diagram below.

 

For the fronts:

 

Front seal bolt combination:

x2 No. N902 818 02

 

Rear sealing plug:

x2 No. 02M 409 057

 

Am I correct those are for the differential oil plugs and NOT the Haldex oil drain and fill plugs.

 

Hope you can help.

 

Thanks

 

Dan G

 

 

On 03/01/2024 at 17:53, rbhelle said:

Picture layout:

1. Drain plug haldex oil (do NOT loosen)
2. Fill plug haldex oil (do NOT loosen)
3. Drain plug axle oil rear differential (5mm hex)
4. Fill plug axle oil rear differential (5mm hex)

 

Well, those bolts are the same as I ordered for my superb, so they will fit. Actually, those bolts can be reused as long as you replace the washer ring (copper washer) and the bolt itself isn't overly rusteaten.

02M 409 057 this bolt I am not sure about. I ordrered the first 2, N902 818 02

 

Rechecked now...

N90281802 is for both front and rear filling plug differential, it is also for the drainhole on the rear diff.

02M409057 is for the drain hole on the front diff (not the rear diff).

So yeah you are buying the xorrect ones 😀

7 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

Rechecked now...

N90281802 is for both front and rear filling plug differential, it is also for the drainhole on the rear diff.

02M409057 is for the drain hole on the front diff (not the rear diff).

So yeah you are buying the xorrect ones 😀

Hey @rbhelle,

 

Thank you so much for replying.

 

I've got it the other way round from schematics on Google...and lllparts.co.uk

 

X2 N902 818 02 for front diff drain and fill plugs.

 

X2 02M 409 057 for rear diff drain and fill plugs.

 

We're halfway there just not sure what way round and quants though from your reply.

 

I'm very confused now...I must go and look at schematics again!

 

G

Edited 21 August, 20241 yr by G1980
Forgot to write I'm still confused 😕

Both saying 02M409057 for rear diff x2 No.

Well, look at this pic from my superb. There you see the fill plug for the haldex where my finger is pointed, and that is exactly the same as the drain plug on the rear diff (marked in red ring to the right). Have no picture of the fill plug, but hey're the same N90281802. At least thats how it is on my 2011 superb with engine cffb, and haldex 4 system. Guess it it pretty much the same on the 2013. But do take a look underneath your car just to be sure. Better safe than sorry mate 😀

No picture bud...Can you send it on to me please.

 

Just so I can treble check I'm looking at the right parts like you've helpfully photographed before.

 

Thanks

 

Dan

Edited 21 August, 20241 yr by G1980

Going to be a typical skoda thing, where mine was one of the very last CFGB engine codes for the 170bhp 3T Mk2 Superb combi estate that everything was being mix and match between the face-lift to Mk3 releases...I can see it now!  It's not the first time I've had this with parts being mixed about on the production line!

 

That'll teach me for having a model where only 20 odd were ever registered in the UK 🤣🤣🤣

1 minute ago, rbhelle said:

Thanks @rbhelle 🤩

Just now, G1980 said:

Thanks @rbhelle 🤩

But, hey, mine is a 2011....so yoirs is 2014. It could be that the partnr are different. So stick with your original post partnumners. Cant go wrong mate. I would if I were you 🙂

It's good to just have a second set of eyes who has done it first to compare against the theory, those who have been there before are more experienced 🤩🤩🤩

 

I know what you mean 3 years on the manufacturing line can be worlds apart from supply chain and specification changes.

 

I'll get her jacked up/on ramps when I get back on holiday and use your photo and my schematics to do a finally compare before I order parts.

 

Thank you so much for your help, it is greatly appreciated.

 

Dan

Are  u using the special vag tool when replacing the seal? I need to replace my dualmass flywheel anytime soon (parts already in pøave in my garage) and will do the egr cooler when things are disassembled anyway. Also thought about just replacing the drive shaft seal on the gearbox side. But will need a special tool called VW T10134... are u using that tool as well?

Currently in 2 minds on attempting this DIY or dropping it into a specialist independent...As this is getting really close to my mechanical limits with someone else guiding me...

 

Just like you I've been looking at the specialist tools required and wondering whether it is worth paying the £890 quoted labour to do the whole job including lifetime diff oil change as well, as they have a workshop, 4 post lifts, the specialist tools already and the experience.  As they're saying it will take them 13 hours to do all of that...I could easily double or treble that with my inexperience and not having a workshop, 4 post lift, specialist tools.

 

I'm just pricing up genuine parts compared against their quote, as they will allow me to supply everything if I desire as long as genuine parts and currently lllparts.co.uk are coming in £180 cheaper than them...However there's a minimum 12 working day lead in with delivery!!!

 

I'm just currently using skoda-parts.com to price including the fly wheel and I have they chance LUK flywheel to get that 66% cheaper through them than my Skoda specialist.  They also said when quoting get a price of a LUK part they're the OEM manufacturer for my car and you could get 50%+ cheaper than us!!!

 

I've also gotta contact my local skoda parts dealer in Writtle, as they sometimes do great prices on parts that beat websites listed above, so I need to give them a chance!

 

Currently sourcing the parts myself for the indy could save me in excess of £700 from the original parts quote!!!

11 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

Are  u using the special vag tool when replacing the seal? I need to replace my dualmass flywheel anytime soon (parts already in pøave in my garage) and will do the egr cooler when things are disassembled anyway. Also thought about just replacing the drive shaft seal on the gearbox side. But will need a special tool called VW T10134... are u using that tool as well?

How come you want to replace the EGR cooler if you don't mind me asking?

3 minutes ago, G1980 said:

How come you want to replace the EGR cooler if you don't mind me asking?

Because on mine with 221 000km it is going to fail sooner or later. It is a very common fail on skodas. Since mine is a 4x4 DSG you have to take down the gearbox to access the egr cooler. The part itself is maybe 100 GBP, but the labor....puh, 6-7 hours. So, I replace it just to be sure when the gearbox is down for other reasons 😀