Erm WOW! That's it, that's all I have, I'm drained just reading through it all. That there is an artist at work.

All I'm hoping for is a rear view camera, data usb in the armrest and perhaps a heated steering wheel!

So little bit of a side line now... and something I am 99.9% hasnt been done before...

 

Ventilated Sportline Seats

 

 

So this was an all new project and going in blind! So a bit of theory behind it first:

On the superb, all seat frames are near enough the same, then the difference between the leather and sportline seats is the foam insides and the headrest. 

There are no ventilated parts for the sportline and the ones built into the leather seat foam are far from the right shape, so it meant starting from scratch.

Also something to note - the fans suck air through the seat, not blow air onto you.

 

The parts that were needed for this:

4x Fans

Wiring

Plugs

Terminals

Diffuser sheet

Isolator sheet

Fan mounting

 

Now the fans, wiring and terminals are easy to source but the sheets and mountings are actually built into the seat foam and cant be purchased separately.

I then found a company that sold me all 4 diffuser and isolator sheets and some mountings that would work. Now we are in business!

 

There are 2 fans per seat, and they are wired exactly the same (almost) and controlled by LIN.

Each seat gets a power on pin 1, a LIN on pin 3 and a ground on pin 2. Pins 4-6 are then grounded differently depending on the fans position and this is how the LIN knows what each seat fan is doing and where it is.

 

 

Thats the wiring out of the way, next the physical mounting of everything:

So this is a cross section of how it currently looks:

 

Yellow is the solid seat foam

Red is the heated seat element

Black is the seat fabric itself.

 

 

 

And this is how it ended up looking:

 

Yellow is the seat foam which now has holes going through it completely, indicated by the brown lines

Red is the heated seat element which is porous so needed no modification

Black is the seat fabric, again it was porous and luckily no modification needed.

Blue is the diffuser sheet - which is a semi rigid sheet that is full of holes allowing the air to distribute fully across all the holes, even with a persons weight pushing on them.

Green is the isolator sheet - this is what seals the area to allow the only air being sucked it to be from the front of the seat, via the holes in the foam.

Brown circle is the fan.

 

 

And now some photos of it all - the parts and strip down first:

A rough marking of the fan location and the foam being cut

The seat base to show the 2 circle holes where the fan could possibly mount

The fan, mounting, diffuser sheet and isolator sheet

Decided on mounting the fan is the forward seat base hole

 

A torch behind the fabric to show the holes are require permiable, so air wont have an issue.

 

 

 

 

Next is the actual building of it all:

Seat back wired up and fully ready to refit, fan installed

Seat base foam cut, very roughly before sanding it flat to give a better finish

Diffuser mat laid in the cut out

All the holes, and the foam pieces ready to fit back on top at the end to maintain its shape

Diffuser mat glued in place and trimmed to fit perfectly.

A sportline seat base - the head rest is what gives it its shape, very odd design

Back of the sportline foam before i began cutting

The cut out for the diffuser foam.

The holes - drilling these is pointless - i heated up a piece of rebar and melted the holes through - a drill just pushes the foam out the way.

Diffuser, isolator and fan mount fitted.

 

 

 

And some photos of the controls now fully working!

 

 

 

And all of that, took 2 whole days for a single seat! Next is the drivers seat!

It did get me thinking though.... the 4B module often refered to as the headlight control module, is actually a multi function control module and it has a lot of other odd options too - almost like extra pins for the BCM. But anyway, it has functions on there for rear seat ventilation too... just a thought. But that would mean a completely custom rear temperature control panel, intercept and inject LIN and canbus signals through my own controller... but yeah, just a thought.

Followed this from your first post. Most of it I don't understand, at all.

 

But absolute hats off to you. This is not your standard build thread!

4 hours ago, bluntsteakknife said:

Followed this from your first post. Most of it I don't understand, at all.

 

But absolute hats off to you. This is not your standard build thread!

Definitely not the usual build, done and dusted with the days of performance cars  

 

My 2000 VW Polo with a 1.8T engine fitted as well as caged and a whole bunch of other mods - running 350bhp, was a great car whilst it lasted!

15 hours ago, ApertureS said:

Definitely not the usual build, done and dusted with the days of performance cars  

 

My 2000 VW Polo with a 1.8T engine fitted as well as caged and a whole bunch of other mods - running 350bhp, was a great car whilst it lasted!

 

Lovely engine bay!

 

Cant help but think why VW didnt offer the 1.8t as standard on the 6n Polo Gti. The 1.6 was fun, but the 1.8t on that chassis would've been a game changer.

Was umming and ahhing about the practicalities of the ventilated seats, but I'm now putting that onto the to-do list!

 

Well, apart from needing to perforate the leather I guess...

17 hours ago, commievid said:

Was umming and ahhing about the practicalities of the ventilated seats, but I'm now putting that onto the to-do list!

 

Well, apart from needing to perforate the leather I guess...

Yeah the issue with the leather seats is there is no holes whereas the ventilated leather is full of holes.

 

In your case you might be better off finding some pre ventilated seats as I don’t know about you but a single hole out of place on the perforations would drive me crazy 

TV tuner now fully working  Lots of coding options for rear displays - Wonder if I could mount some displays in the sportline headrests.... hmmm - just something ill consider in the future.

 

 

 

 

Got a few other issues that ive got to diagnose -

A gateway fault with no details that wont clear! Its looking for something that doesnt exist so will need some more digging.

Antenna fault for phone charger base - I assume ive wired something incorrectly on the amplifier for the antenna but need to look into it more

 

Then the next part of the plan is the suspension, wheel alignment, a tyre, dcc coding and webasto pipe work.

Well we have some noise from the Webasto heater, which is a start.

Bleeding the pipework for fuel was a pain the in ass.

 

 

 

But not as much of a pain as making the custom pipework, currently its not as pretty as I would like but it does the job as a proof of concept.

 

 

 

The drivers seat had its ventilation fitted and all working now, fully ventilated front sportline seats.

 

I then made the mistake of fitting the seat buckle back to front... this can be fixed when the seats are next out, oops

 

 

We are still making good progress! Everything has slowed down a bit now.... but next up is sorting the basic settings on the Webasto and calibrating the areaview.

 

After this we can start on the suspension and DCC retrofit.

 

So i took the week off work to put a big dent in things!

 

Webasto parking heater - Finally got the basic settings to run through on this and got it to run without cutting off.

The remote was then very very easy to pair with ODIS and took 30 seconds.

 

I now have a fully working parking heater and ventilation setup!

So on cold days/mornings I can either press the remote to start it up, or set a time on the dashboard that i want to depart and the heater will boot up and get the interior nice and warm!

 

And being summer now, i have the ventilate option - which instead of heating the interior will turn the blowers on to remove all the hot air in the cabin before you are even in the vehicle.

 

Webasto signed off fully and a rough guide on the coding will be along shortly.

 

 

Areaview/360 camera - no further updates on calibration yet sadly, still trying to find time.

 

 

 

 

The DCC and suspension work - probably what a lot of you have been waiting for.

Before picture of the front strut. Now as all the wiring had been done and can be seen wrapped up in the photo above, it was just a job of physically doing the suspension work.

 

The new monroe strut fitted up with all new top mounts and bump stops. 

 

As everything is being done by the book, all new hardware was required, and for all this work it was roughly 60 nuts and bolts. (The blue goo in the picture above is a wax visual indicator I put on all critical bolts to see if they ever come loose).

 

Whilst we are still on the front of the car, it was time to get all the front bushes changed to finally get rid of the known creaking issue over bumps.

3 sets of bushes were changed here:

Front lower arm inserts - fitted with genuine rubber bushes - no signs of wear on old ones

Front lower arm puck inserts - fitted with genuine newest revision rubber bushes - old ones were creaking and a known issue for this

Anti roll bar bushes - can only be purchased as a complete anti roll bar so polybush fitted instead - also a known creaking issue.

 

So far, no noises at all from the front anymore!

 

After this we moved onto the back - much more straightforward, 3 bolts for each strut and they were out.

 

New bump stops and guards fitted but top mounts reused as ive never seen one of these fail.

Straight forward fitting and done both rears in around 20 minutes.

 

After this, all the hardware is fitted and the car was all fitted back up and all coding was carried out. (Im still working out some nacks with the coding so wont post it just yet)

 

But.... we ran in to a fault code for the front left level sensor reading short to positive, so it was time to start diagnosing. 

Rather than pull the front wheel i decided to go from the NSF footwell where the multiplug is for both front sensors. 3 wires to each sensor, a ground, a 5v feed, a signal. On the 5v feed i was getting 12 VOLTS, not ideal.

So the boot was stripped out to access the DCC module incase I had wired it incorrectly and after disconnecting the DCC plug in the boot, there was still 12V on this wire.... some head scratching commenced and a conclusion was made, and i remembered my earlier post

 

Quote

This came with a fault code - B156401 - Antenna for telephone mount, electrical error and working out exactly what this fault code relates to will be fun, the below are the options that need further diagnosis:

My coding has a possible problem and im either missing something or wasnt meant to enable bit 1

My fakra cable from charger to amplifier is faulty

My amplifier is faulty

Amplifier not receiving power, ground or switch on signal

Faulty charger or roof antenna (but both brand new so id hope not)

Faulty fakra cable between amplifier and roof antenna

 

The wire for the DCC level sensor is a 0.5mm black with yellow trace, one of the wires going to the phonebox amplifier is.... you guessed it, a 0.5mm black with yellow trace. Both wires ran alongside eachother in the passenger footwell and were very easily cut and swapped around.

 

This is the huge upside to me doing all these jobs using original wire colours, routing, plugs, pin outs and wiring diagrams. It means that tracing faults is no different to any other factory fitted car, and more-so, if someone else had to diagnose the fault, they could follow all OE documentation.

 

So not only did this cure the DCC fault, it cured the phonebox fault also.

 

The final part of the DCC is the calibration which i will cover in more detail - but basically leave all 4 wheels hanging off the ground at maximum travel, and press calibrate.

 

 

 

I will post all of my used suspension torque settings - THESE ARE SPECIFIC TO MY CAR AND MAY NOT BE THE SAME AS YOUR REQUIRED SPECS - PLEASE FIND THE CORRECT ONES FOR YOUR CAR AND DONT BLINDLY USE THESE

These are all posted in Nm+Angle format.

Front
Subframe Main	70+180
Subframe small	50+90
Steering Rack	70+90
Steering rack end	20+90
Steering rack to column	20+90
Anti roll bar	20+180
Anti roll bar links	80
Lower arm to ball joint	40+45
Lower arm forward	70+180
Lower arm rear	70+180
Hub to shock pinch bolt	70+180
Driveshaft	200+90
Shock to upper mount	60
Shock mount to body	20+90
Brake carrier	200
Dogleg to subframe	130+90
Dogleg forward	50+90
Dogleg rear	50+90
Rear
Shock to lower arm	70+180
Shock to upper mount
Shock mount to body	50+45
Upper eccentric bolt	95
Lower eccentric bolt	95
Wheel torque	140

 

 

 

 

 

 

There will still be more updates to come as things are fully completed as well as all coding required and such.

@ApertureSI notice that the bushings have small triangles moulded into them, is there any spec for the orientation of these or did you just mark and follow the previous bushing orientation?  What torque wrench are you using to get the Nm + degree set up?

Any idea what the difference is on the modified arm rear bushes?

9 hours ago, coppertop said:

@ApertureSI notice that the bushings have small triangles moulded into them, is there any spec for the orientation of these or did you just mark and follow the previous bushing orientation?  What torque wrench are you using to get the Nm + degree set up?

The arms have a small line - almost looks like someone has run a saw blade across it gently. The triangle lines up with this.

 

Torque wrench wise I have a 2x 1/4 inch, 3/8 and 2x 1/2 and these allow me to cover all torque settings from 0.8Nm-320Nm

 

for the angles there is no need to mess with any angle gauges or anything, just torque the bolt, mark the bolt head and the bit that doesn’t move and do the math, a 1/2 turn is 180 degrees, 1/4 is 90, 1/8 is 45 degrees. Or even a flat of the bolt to the next flat is 60 degrees.

 

If you want to be very specific you could mark the start and end point but after years of doing it, can generally do it by feel now.

52 minutes ago, Blue8793841 said:

Any idea what the difference is on the modified arm rear bushes?

I did try and take a look, it looks like what they call the noise bushings are different which is the rubber bit that sticks from the inner bush to the outside edge. Surprisingly it’s bigger and closer to touching, I thought if these were the cause of the noise they would be made smaller.

 

but the manual specifically calls for them to be filled with grease once fitted (we will see how long that lasts and if they start to squeak again)

Mine are peeling slightly, just going to leave them for the time being no issues yet. What sort of noise do they make?

30 minutes ago, Blue8793841 said:

Mine are peeling slightly, just going to leave them for the time being no issues yet. What sort of noise do they make?

Normal in colder weather you get a creaking when going over bumps.

 

can be either the rear bushes or the anti roll bar bushes that cause it 

So ive got a intermittent fault on the front left level sensor still.... 

This is causing a AFS headlight fault and them to point at the floor.

 

I believe there is 2 possible causes for this, either ive still messed up the wiring for it and its being fed wrong... or because ive fed it with 12V instead of the required 5V i may have burnt it out....

I assumed it was just a resistor with a wiper arm that adjusts the voltage from 0-5V across the resistor, but im now being told its a Hall sensor that puts out a signal, not a voltage variation.

 

Will have to confirm this next week when a new battery for the laptop arrives. 

 

 

 

 

EDIT:

 

Definitely not a wiper resistor setup, and is a lot more involved - very good chance ive cooked the sensor by giving it 12v instead of 5v...

Ill preemptively order up a new one i think as theres good odds on it being that.

 

 

Edited 21 July, 202421 Jul by ApertureS

Hello. So much work done.

 

>3Q0980654 camera fitted

 

any idea why the acc up to 160 kmh or up to 210 kmh is based on camera version and the radar is same?

what are the differences between 3Q0980654 vs 3Q0980653

 

On 23/07/2024 at 00:05, dilino said:

Hello. So much work done.

 

>3Q0980654 camera fitted

 

any idea why the acc up to 160 kmh or up to 210 kmh is based on camera version and the radar is same?

what are the differences between 3Q0980654 vs 3Q0980653

 

The 653 radar was only fitted up till 25.05.2015 and the 654 was fitted to all cars after this.

The 653B was replaced with the 654D on 01/04/2016

 

After 08.07.2019 the 2Q0 radar was used instead.

 

 

There is very little support for the early 653 cameras and my guess to do with the speeds is to do with the earlier mk7 golf's which used a LRR allowing up to 210kph and this camera was compatible with that. After this time they started using flat face MRR radars which dont have as long a range coverage, so the cameras also didnt need to cover this distance. 

So I think its time to talk more coding....

 

Lets start with DCC - remember this is everything I did and may not cover all cars exactly.

 

Ill quote from an earlier post first which covers all the gateway dataset parts

 

Quote

In preparation for the DCC retrofit, A custom gateway FPA dataset is required, this now gets a small bit complicated.

So a lovely gent managed to decode the entire gateway dataset to allow reverse engineering. The only issue, you need to have a gateway with at least version Q, mine was C.

 

I thought id give it a go, so first I intercepted my own dataset from ODIS for version C of gateway, when looking at it under a HEX editor you could see the differences already between a version C and Q dataset. Namely the section that holds the FPA data starts at address 0B80 on a Q dataset and is exactly 4352 bytes.

On my C dataset the address with 4352 bytes started at 0320 which is NOT 0B80, this is an issue. 

I tried picking out the individual bits I needed but this was no good. Annoying as I would of prefered to make small changes to my current dataset instead of creating one from scratch.

 

Next I scrapped the idea and started from scratch and began using the FPA editor to create a dataset - http://www.mqbtools.nl/fpa/

Once this dataset was done, I couldnt upload it as its only suitable for Q and onwards software. So the gateway module now needs an update!

 

There are two paths for 19 gateway modules that are 3Q0907530 - Lear and Continental. Both have the same suffixes for hardware and software but are NOT interchangable. If you do that, youll brick the module.

So as I have continental (can read through diagnostic or physical checking label) I know that my software numbers start with 5, whereas lear start with 4.

 

So my continental software was C - 5287 (Lear C - 4287) and I needed to get to at least Q - 5344 (Lear Q - 4344) (With gateway, as long as its a valid software, you can flash forward, backward, skip some, do whatever. No risk of bricking)

So I made the choice to jump to the newest version which is AC, or in full 3Q0907530AC - 5388 (Lear 4388) after this, everything worked perfectly except for loosing coding, adaptations and many fault codes.....

I then used ODIS-E to reconfigure the coding and adaptations to what they were before, no issues here and now almost all the fault codes are gone and no more dash errors.

The custom made dataset was then uploaded to the module (ODIS-E did not like this but still accepted it) as the checksum was incorrect, but still a valid dataset.

 

 

After this the following was needed:

 

• 19 - Gateway coding change was needed as follows: FPA_Funktion_DR set to 1 (DR stands for damper regulation). This allows the gateway to output a signal to DCC modules to decide on their mode.
• 19 - Gateway installation list: Add module 14 - elect. suspension
• 03 - ABS coding: Enable Byte 27 bit 7 (Electronic suspension fitted)
• 4B - Multi function control module coding: LWR sensors: 1 sensor to 2 sensors
• 4B - Multi function control module coding: Source height value: BCM to DCC
• 5F - Infotaiment adaptation: Chassis_Control_0x57: active
• 5F - Infotaiment adaptation: menu_chassis_control: active
• 17 - Instrument cluster coding: Adaptive chassis control: set to 1
• 09 - BCM adaptation: Leucteweitenregulierung-sensor_headlight_range_control_installed: Not fitted 

This covers all the coding required - not a huge amount really, and the DCC module has no coding.

 

The DCC module software needs updating to 5Q0907376C_0130 which supports the 14 stage DCC slider, opposed to the 3 stage comfort/sport/normal

We then applied a DCC dataset to match the vehicle type - closest 2 options were Passat or Arteon, I went for passat.

 

The final stage is the calibration of the DCC system. If using ODIS it runs you through the process but it is incredibly simple - raise all 4 wheels off the ground and allow them to hang on their own at their most extended travel.

After this run the calibration with ODIS or VCDS and it will store these as the most extreme values and you are done.

DCC fitted and fully working.

 

Just fitted the new NSF level sensor - this will help us move forward with the headlight fault:

 

So the headlight fault is that when moving the lights constantly go up to max, then drop to min height, then repeat. After about 20 cycles they default to min height and i get a light error.

The only fault code stored is to do with NSF level sensor and seen as this is the one I accidentally fed 12V to instead of 5V, there is a good chance its faulty. 

 

So we will monitor this for a few days now and see what happens.

 

If for some reason this doesnt cure it, then I will need to look at the following:

- DCC coding

- DCC wiring

- 4B coding

- 4B live data for the headlight leveling to see what its actually doing

- 09 coding

 

If none of these find anything then it could be a possible dataset issue with 4B but im not 100% my year of car has a dataset in the 4B module.

 

But seen as the level sensor fault was in the DCC module, we need to start there and hope for the best!

So I just realised we are long overdue an update!

 

So the level sensor was fitted and the fault codes cleared and have not returned.

but the issue was, the headlights kept moving through their full range of movements.

 

So I ran the headlamp basic setting procedure again and this time, they stayed still.... I have been using them for the last 2/3 weeks with no issues!!! So that seems to be fixed.

So I think because the basic settings were done with a dodgy sensor, it was trying to find that dodgy reading still.

 

So onto the list of whats left to do, and whats next:

• Fit rear bumper brackets to help tighten up the gaps under rear lights
• Still have to calibrate the areaview, honestly havent had time
• Work out if there is anyway of auto swapping between front and rear cams when going from reverse to drive
• Fit a small piece of trim between the rear bench seats

The next big issue is, I have a very very slow coolant leak - as in 1 litre over 3/4 weeks. Now this could be a few things as its only appeared since I started touching stuff;

The custom piping I have made is very slowly leaking for the parking heater

The parking heater has an internal leak (used it without issue since so doubt this)

It is coincidence and there is a different part of the car leaking

 

Either way, its a pain to find as its so small, will consider putting a UV dye in the coolant to monitor it.

 

 

Now for whats next on the list of possible mods:

 

10 way massage seats - Having driven the new Audi A8 recently and range rovers they offer a lovely pnemuatic massage function which involves a small air pump and manifold that inflates and deflates bladders under the fabric. Whereas the OE massage function is simply the lumbar support moving, This is 10 individual bladders.

This is only an idea so far and if I was to attempt it, I would give it a go on the back seats first as its less critical if all goes wrong. As its not technically OE it would be slightly moving away from the spec

 

Ventilated rear seats - the rear seats dont offer any ventilation and of course there is no option for this with the control panel and if I really wanted to fit this it would be a massive job. First id have to strip the control panel and fit a second row of blue LEDs that are controlled by a different circuit board. Then id have to tap into the control panel LIN outputs and work out what buttons output what messages and mimic this on a custom circuit board to simply do the heated side of things.

I would then have to experiment to find out what signals the 4B module (which has outputs made for rear seat ventilation, as its basically a BCM expansion) would expect to turn on its ventilated outputs and what feedback to send back to the custom module.

It is all possible and the fitting of the actual ventilated parts is the easy bit.

It would mean pulling out my signal sniffer and making custom surface mount circuit boards again. 

Could be interesting....

 

Sunroof - this idea is still in the back of my mind and if and when I do decide to get the paint touched up on the roof and surrounding areas it wouldnt be the biggest job. The old roof is cut off to the sills, the new roof is bonded on with glue as per the OE instructions and then around 15 spot welds on the front and back faces. The biggest expense in tooling is the special laser weld grinding tool (£450) and the spot welder can be rented for around £100 for the weekend. 

After this all parts including the panel, second hand sunroof (from 2023 car) and the adhesive come to roughly £1000.

But again, this wouldnt be considered for a long time yet.

So a little update on the coolant leak -

 

So for the parking heater, a hose is removed from the heater matrix and this now goes to the electronic water pump, then parking heater, then back to the other end which goes into the heater matrix. As shown in this diagram

 

 

Now, for the LHD cars this is formed from a metal pipe with brackets and such. This pipe does not work on RHD cars as we have the steering column in the way. So I had to make my own pipe using 19mm coolant hose and some fittings.

To join the fittings to the hose as space was quite limited I used Stepless 1-ear hose clamps as photographed below

 

 

These seemed to work just fine and the right size was used. But after a few months I developed a very slow coolant leak, roughly 1 litre every month and I noticed a small spot of coolant below each of these clamps. Checking on each of the clamps I noticed that the ears had expanded and almost stretched out allowing coolant to pass the fittings when under pressure.

 

The leak then continued to roughly 1 litre a week and at this point I have decided to investigate further, A few of these clamps had almost loosened fully to the point the only thing holding the hose on was the barb on the fitting.

 

I can only put this down to the fact that the heat cycles caused the pipe and fittings to expand and this in turn caused the ear clamps to loosen and not return due to their rigid nature.

 

I then pulled all the hoses from the car for a full rework (quite a lot of work as they run below the vacuum assist and behind the engine very close)

 

At this point I decided there were 2 methods to resolve this; Worm type hose clamps or Constant tension hose clamps

 

Wanting to keep to the OE style and as the name suggests, these constant tension clamps provide the same tension when expanded and then shrink back down after providing a perfect seal always.

 

An example of this constant tension / spring band hose clamps looks as follows:

 

Now these are all fitted and the coolant system refilled and ran up to pressure for 1 hour, so far, no drips or wet spots. But we will monitor this closely and see what happens in the coming months!

Being what I believe is the first RHD MQB car with a OE parking heater fitted, we are bound to have teething problems!

 

 

 

(To rule out any manufacturer defects, all parts used were Mikalor brand, and the clamps were crimped with ear clamp pliers)

 

 

 

On 29/09/2024 at 16:32, ApertureS said:

Being what I believe is the first RHD MQB car with a OE parking heater fitted, we are bound to have teething problems!

 

Fair play to you man..... This level of perseverance and sheer man hours spent is truly remarkable.... And a great Read!

Edited 30 September, 202430 Sep by GordoGT

So the current outstanding jobs as follows:

Calibrate areaview - will try and do this in the next few weeks

Check the coolant leak repair - will check this later today

Possible alarm fault - the car alarm seems to go off in heavy rain - im guessing related to the KESSY door handles probably, but will look into this further.

Ambient lighting fault - I get a sporadic code relating to the ambient lighting LINbus having a fault that will need looking into further.

 

Since then ive done the following -

I wasnt a fan of the plastic liner in the sunglasses holder scratching my glasses, so i went to hobbycraft and got an adhesive lined felt sheet for £1. Cut to size and fitted in place.

 

 

I also preped the new Canton grills for the front doors.

For door cards with the grills - they are £450 each new.

I managed to find the wrong door cards, but the right grills. So these were purchased for £50 for the pair and the grills removed. Only issue is, all the tabs broke off.

 

The solution - 3D print some new tabs and then epoxy them into place

 

Now just to cut the door cards and fit these in place. I really should get some black PLA so it blends in better!