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Door lock barrel - please help!


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I must be doing something stupid, please help! 😳

I attempted to change the drivers door microswitch today, got the door panels all stripped out in no time, next step remove lock barrel, just two screws to loosen and simply slide out, yeh right not a hope in hell it wasn't budging.

The screws loosened were in the cirlces in the pic below, I could see the orange circled one worked a forked clamp that secures the front of the barrel and the hooks were free of the lock, I see from the online pics the yellow circled screw simply locates into a hole to secure the rear of the lock, this was fully back against it's stop, nowt moved, poped the cover off the barrel and had mole grips on it, tw*ted from behind with a screwdriver and hammer (I call this percussive maintenance), screamed profanities loudly while stamping my feet in a tantrum, nope nothing helped.

Please help prevent me from looking any wierder in front of my neighbours, they worry about me as it is....

I'm sure this bit should be so simple! What have I missed?

 

doorlock.thumb.jpg.7f29a67a3a2d8d2357ed81e2ca2babaf.jpg

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Went back out to it after a while, left all the door panels in and retried just the 2 screws for the barrel,  out it popped! It waited for me to make an idiot of myself on an Internet forum first.

So stripped the door panel back out and removed lock and it's nothing like the guides I've seen for microswitch replacement,  the part number is 26c- 152 837 016b, a quick search came up with a 2017 Up, anyone know how these locks come apart? 

The car belongs to the Mrs. so I don't dare break it.

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Here are pics of the lock, any disassembly help appreciated.

I assume they suffer from the same microswitch issues, symptoms are no headlight warning buzzer, no door open symbol shown, no interior light for drivers side.

Car is a 2013 5J Fabia estate.

Part number is 26c- 1S2 837 016B  I read it as 152 first time.

20240126_143932.jpg.92f0d326c352d220f16c5d9d1d0f5df7.jpg20240126_143940.jpg.8f59f0ce6dcb18fc81e37e2a28e2937d.jpg

20240126_143946.jpg.b9685bc513bb83520c9faa381b5856ec.jpg20240126_143951.jpg.450ff3fc2fb4c63800012cbb70e9594d.jpg

20240126_143958.jpg.b312ed0e269919a3201913c7e76c5c63.jpg

Edited by dilligaf
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We had a similar problem.

I opened up the door lock to the PCB.

20210611_133332.thumb.jpg.a33ae768b01650c6851da18d8fa529cf.jpg

 

I then unsoldered the 2 microswitches and swapped them as the pins seem to be used differently.

20210611_134939_1.thumb.jpg.87b578e199c5ef3e28f0177d41837936.jpg

This gave the door lock another 2 years of life. The fault came back and I changed the complete lock. Our lock has a different PN but is essentially the same.

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I was expecting to do that and had the youtube vid at the ready but the lock was totally different, as it happens I looked up the lock pinout to check other ways and found another thread about wiring loom breaks, undid the flexible bellows on the door and found 2 wires with clean breaks and several others with the insulation cracked ready to do the same, a bit of soldering later and it all works,  if anyone needs a later year lock I have a spare.

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