My locking wheel nut got damaged. Could anybody share me the part number of the nut and locking wheel nut's for me to shop around for new set? I saw in amazon, they are selling for MK3 for someone said on the review that it was too small. and also there is one on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173796169527?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11050.m43.l1123&mkcid=26&ch=osgood&euid=a5267a11bb90498fa37cec76533b577e&bu=43329747725&osub=-1~1&crd=20240303052717&segname=11050

 

No clue if they will fit in my car not.

 

 

Thank you.

This seller on eBay will sell you a replacement socket if you send them a pic of the bolt. Other sellers have the sockets but need you to identify the correct one.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114997329649

 

It might also be worth speaking to your local dealer to see if Skoda keep a record of the code fitted to the car.

There should be a letter code stamped or embossed on the hexagon end - otherwise there are online vendors who can identify correct adaptor from a picture. Another (probably most expensive) option is to ask your nearest dealer workshop to identify and supply a replacement. 

Edited 3 March, 20242 yr by Warrior193
correction

Is it the bolt (in the wheel) or the locking key (pictured) you are after?

 

Did you get the wheel bolt out or is that damaged too?

 

As @Warrior193 states the key code is usually embossed on the other side.

 

Example

Might be this

 

 

 

Thanks xman for specifying  the names. My locking key is damaged. it worked for the front two to unscrew them but rear right was very tight. I damaged it there. So, I was just wondering probably I'll get another full set with Locking key if they are not too expensive.

I already sent the query to ebay seller..they replied saying that they are double checking and will confirm me.

 

 

N.B: Does anyone know the actual measurement of the bolt and locking keys?

Edited 3 March, 20242 yr by automass

5 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

There should be a letter code stamped or embossed on the hexagon end - otherwise there are online vendors who can identify correct adaptor from a picture. Another (probably most expensive) option is to ask your nearest dealer workshop to identify and supply a replacement. 

 

Rather than getting the Locking key only, I think it will be good idea to get the full set of bolt and locking key.

16 hours ago, automass said:

 

Rather than getting the Locking key only, I think it will be good idea to get the full set of bolt and locking key.

You're still going to need to replace the original key so you can remove the original locking bolts before you can fit the new bolts from your new kit.

Edited 4 March, 20242 yr by geordiebloke
Spelling

Damage occurs when you're not square on when undoing the bolt. Hold the key fully home and square with one hand when applying force on the wrench. Angled wrenches should be avoided including the pathetic wrench supplied on the Skoda wheel toolkit.

 

4 way cross wrenches are the safest.

 

 

 

Torque wrenches with short extensions are reasonably safe

 

 

Avoid these angled wrenches, they do not apply force in the correct plane and carry a high risk of key damage

 

 

Edited 4 March, 20242 yr by xman

Once you’ve sorted this ditch the locking bolts for normal ones. No one steals alloys anymore. 

I've decided to go for the regular bolt. I have ordered them from ebay (same seller that i posted above). Waiting for them to arrive. I guess my old locking key should be okay to open those special bolt fromt wheels by the garage people. I'll try with garage people once the bolts are arrived.

By the way, Does anyone know where can I find the Locking Nut Key Code? in the socket, it sayz Z only. I am attaching the label which I have found in the boot.

 

Edited 8 March, 20242 yr by automass

No help in that label. My codes only say locking wheel set without specifying which key.

 

PRCode: 1AS = Electronic stabilization program (ESP)
PRCode: 1D0 = Without trailer hitch
PRCode: 1KD = Disc brakes rear
PRCode: 1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic)
PRCode: 3QC = 3-point seat belts front
PRCode: 4UP = Driver's and front passenger air bag with knee air bag and front passenger air bag deactivation
PRCode: 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag
PRCode: 6FF = Body-colored exterior mirror housings and various add-on parts
PRCode: 7MM = Emission standard EU6 plus
PRCode: 7UF = Navigation system - Standard
PRCode: 8GG = Alternator 110 A
PRCode: E0A = No special edition
PRCode: G01 = Front shock absorption
PRCode: H9S = Tires 275/80 R22.5 driving
PRCode: I8F = Radio High (Europe)
PRCode: J0T = Battery 360A (69Ah)
PRCode: L02 = Suspension range 02 installation control only no requirement forecast
PRCode: QI6 = Without service indicator

Finally i managed to get rid off locking wheel bolts. It caused me a stressful day..Anyway, happy jappy now.

If you did want to fit new wheel locking bolts, there are more robust-looking, aftermarket versions available.

After having my front tyres changes a few months ago, I had my 1st “contrôle technique” on the car yesterday.

I had an advisory for a missing wheel bolt - the security one on one of the wheels.

 

Foolishly, I did not check they were tightened, and now it is too late.

So the question now is if I buy a new set, or just fit standard bolts. I don’t live or leave my car in a high risk area.

If I do go for new anti-theft bolts, ant aftermarket recommendations? I quite fancy black ones to match the wheels, so McGard seem the obvious choice, but seeing how quickly you can remove these now, are they really worth fitting?

Still have my series 1 Skoda Yeti with over 290,000Kms on the clock and just discovered the security anti-theft socket is missing.

Now in France, the local Skoda dealer doesn't have any positive suggestions but to try to saw them off for about 600€.

Anyone have any experience, suggestions to get a replacement? The ebay suggestion above doesn't seem that reliable.

Thanks for any advice.

As far as I'm aware, many main Stealers hold a full set of the wheel bolt security keys, a visit to ascertain the correct key, then buy one over the parts counter.

No help when the key is missing - but there is a ID letter code stamped into top of VAG security keys.

The Ebay option is probably your best (and cheapest) option, suppliers I've seen supply the correct key identified by you sending a clear image of your security wheel bolt face.

For what it's worth, I had this issue on a 2013 Focus. Okay, I had the key, but it was almost completely rounded out. I managed to get one nut off before it failed, and took it down to the local (large) Ford dealer, who quickly confirmed there were hundreds of patterns and that they could order one in a month or two. Quick pit stop to ECP on the way home, one blank socket and a mallet later, and I had the remaining three nuts off in about 25 seconds each.

Nobody steals wheels anymore. When did you last see a car on bricks? All locking wheel bolts do is cause issues for you, the owner of the car. I'm not saying I'd get rid of the ones on my vRS, but if there was an issue with them, I wouldn't hesitate to pull them off.

I'm not sure how VAG works, but as suggested I would try and get some help from a supplier - it doesn't hurt to ask. Failing that, it's definitely not a £500 job to remove them, unless your wheels are special (they do look quite deep, to be fair).

Had one fail on my old seat when I put it in for tyre change. Local garage managed to remove old bolt by welding a nut onto it. Ditched the offending wheel bolts and replaced with normal. The security socket seemed to be alloy and snapped. Local tyre service hates them. They said they either break them or can't find them in the car. They make a point of handing them back personaly to the customer and advise them to get rid of them and replace with normal bolts. My old volvo ones on the other hand seemed indestructible and were made of steel. Non of my cars have them anymore and nobody has nicked my alloys. A new bolt cost a few quid which is a lot cheaper than getting a broken one removed.