Locking wheel nut and bolt

[automass]

My locking wheel nut got damaged. Could anybody share me the part number of the nut and locking wheel nut's for me to shop around for new set? I saw in amazon, they are selling for MK3 for someone said on the review that it was too small. and also there is one on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173796169527?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11050.m43.l1123&mkcid=26&ch=osgood&euid=a5267a11bb90498fa37cec76533b577e&bu=43329747725&osub=-1~1&crd=20240303052717&segname=11050

 

No clue if they will fit in my car not.

 

 

Thank you.

[HappySam]

This seller on eBay will sell you a replacement socket if you send them a pic of the bolt. Other sellers have the sockets but need you to identify the correct one.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114997329649

 

It might also be worth speaking to your local dealer to see if Skoda keep a record of the code fitted to the car.

[Warrior193]

There should be a letter code stamped or embossed on the hexagon end - otherwise there are online vendors who can identify correct adaptor from a picture. Another (probably most expensive) option is to ask your nearest dealer workshop to identify and supply a replacement. 

Edited 3 March by Warrior193
correction

[xman]

Is it the bolt (in the wheel) or the locking key (pictured) you are after?

 

Did you get the wheel bolt out or is that damaged too?

 

As @Warrior193 states the key code is usually embossed on the other side.

 

Example

[xman]

Might be this

 

 

 

[automass]

Thanks xman for specifying  the names. My locking key is damaged. it worked for the front two to unscrew them but rear right was very tight. I damaged it there. So, I was just wondering probably I'll get another full set with Locking key if they are not too expensive.

I already sent the query to ebay seller..they replied saying that they are double checking and will confirm me.

 

 

N.B: Does anyone know the actual measurement of the bolt and locking keys?

Edited 3 March by automass

[automass]

5 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

There should be a letter code stamped or embossed on the hexagon end - otherwise there are online vendors who can identify correct adaptor from a picture. Another (probably most expensive) option is to ask your nearest dealer workshop to identify and supply a replacement. 

 

Rather than getting the Locking key only, I think it will be good idea to get the full set of bolt and locking key.

[geordiebloke]

16 hours ago, automass said:

 

Rather than getting the Locking key only, I think it will be good idea to get the full set of bolt and locking key.

You're still going to need to replace the original key so you can remove the original locking bolts before you can fit the new bolts from your new kit.

Edited 4 March by geordiebloke
Spelling

[xman]

Damage occurs when you're not square on when undoing the bolt. Hold the key fully home and square with one hand when applying force on the wrench. Angled wrenches should be avoided including the pathetic wrench supplied on the Skoda wheel toolkit.

 

4 way cross wrenches are the safest.

 

 

 

Torque wrenches with short extensions are reasonably safe

 

 

Avoid these angled wrenches, they do not apply force in the correct plane and carry a high risk of key damage

 

 

Edited 4 March by xman

[gm73]

Once you’ve sorted this ditch the locking bolts for normal ones. No one steals alloys anymore. 

[automass]

I've decided to go for the regular bolt. I have ordered them from ebay (same seller that i posted above). Waiting for them to arrive. I guess my old locking key should be okay to open those special bolt fromt wheels by the garage people. I'll try with garage people once the bolts are arrived.

[automass]

By the way, Does anyone know where can I find the Locking Nut Key Code? in the socket, it sayz Z only. I am attaching the label which I have found in the boot.

 

Edited 8 March by automass

[inspectorman]

No help in that label. My codes only say locking wheel set without specifying which key.

 

PRCode: 1AS = Electronic stabilization program (ESP)
PRCode: 1D0 = Without trailer hitch
PRCode: 1KD = Disc brakes rear
PRCode: 1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic)
PRCode: 3QC = 3-point seat belts front
PRCode: 4UP = Driver's and front passenger air bag with knee air bag and front passenger air bag deactivation
PRCode: 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag
PRCode: 6FF = Body-colored exterior mirror housings and various add-on parts
PRCode: 7MM = Emission standard EU6 plus
PRCode: 7UF = Navigation system - Standard
PRCode: 8GG = Alternator 110 A
PRCode: E0A = No special edition
PRCode: G01 = Front shock absorption
PRCode: H9S = Tires 275/80 R22.5 driving
PRCode: I8F = Radio High (Europe)
PRCode: J0T = Battery 360A (69Ah)
PRCode: L02 = Suspension range 02 installation control only no requirement forecast
PRCode: QI6 = Without service indicator

[automass]

Finally i managed to get rid off locking wheel bolts. It caused me a stressful day..Anyway, happy jappy now.

[Warrior193]

If you did want to fit new wheel locking bolts, there are more robust-looking, aftermarket versions available.