Rust prevention Octavia Mk3

[TDIMachoMan]

Hello!

I recently purchased the Octavia mk3 facelift. I wonder do you guys know what are the “faulty spots” where corrosion most likely occurs and how would you fix the issue in advance?

Since I live in Sweden, rust is kinda big problem on all VAG cars here, Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

[Nogrille]

All black "painted" suspension parts on mine are looking older than the rest of the car already!

[TDIMachoMan]

True that but I was more concerned about panel rust (wheelhouse, trunk, etc)

I did not specify that in my description…:(

underbody rust looks bad but it is not structural, wirebrush wheel , some elbow grease and some paint and underbody coating will make it better than new

[kedambarai]

Had rear wheel arches and estate boot lid done on pfl 2016 mk3 (it was a warranty case). I think the rust starts on the rear corners of the arch, where it meets the bumper. The lid was rusty I suppose on the lower edge (it wasnt apparent, they discovered it when taking in the car). In advance you fix the rust in a warranty claim

 

Now, I see that driver door sill starts developing a bubble. No apparent paint damage observable.

 

[TDIMachoMan]

Didn’t even know that we got the “rust warranty “ hahah lol

I know how fast VAG cars rust, it’s a common thing. They are so bad that we use to joke “vag cars decay faster than bananas “

[bigjohn]

In the UK I've found VAG cars to be excellent re rust resistance on the main body but poor re subframes / suspension / bolt on crossmembers / backplates. The body is usually fully galvanised.  I may have been generally lucky re steel quality, which can vary, though  I had one exception to this - my previous 2003 mk I Superb was quick to show signs of rust. My current 2014 Superb is remarkably rust free but I've kept on top of protection and clearing out mud/crud traps (eg behind wheel arch liners especially near sills). My son has a 2016 mkIII Octavia and that is pretty good re rust, infact one of the weak spots on my Superb II re trapping crud at the rear of the front wheel arches behind the liner seems to have been resolved by design on the mkIII Octavia.

 

I've found our past and present Fiats to be much worse. They use galvanised metal but they are welded together after that process so they tend to rust at welded seams/joints. Terminally if you don't keep on top of it. I've witnessed bad rust on Mazda and Toyota cars.

 

My current favorite rust protection products 1) Owatrol Oil for externally facing body/ wheel arches/suspension/ backplates/subframes - rust inhibitor that sets to a clearish resin finish and doesn't wash off 2) Dinitrol cavity wax - inside chassis, sills, door/boot bottoms. 

 

Edited 5 March by bigjohn

[PetrolDave]

I ran a 2004 Skoda Fabia for 12 years with no visible rust, and a 2006 Audi RS4 for 10 years with no visible rust - massive improvement on several Austin/Morris/Rover/ARG cars that would show visible rust within 18 months.

[xman]

I've seen taillgate rust around the number plate lights a few times, usualy coming from the inside.

[TDIMachoMan]

8 hours ago, bigjohn said:

In the UK I've found VAG cars to be excellent re rust resistance on the main body but poor re subframes / suspension / bolt on crossmembers / backplates. The body is usually fully galvanised.  I may have been generally lucky re steel quality, which can vary, though  I had one exception to this - my previous 2003 mk I Superb was quick to show signs of rust. My current 2014 Superb is remarkably rust free but I've kept on top of protection and clearing out mud/crud traps (eg behind wheel arch liners especially near sills). My son has a 2016 mkIII Octavia and that is pretty good re rust, infact one of the weak spots on my Superb II re trapping crud at the rear of the front wheel arches behind the liner seems to have been resolved by design on the mkIII Octavia.

 

I've found our past and present Fiats to be much worse. They use galvanised metal but they are welded together after that process so they tend to rust at welded seams/joints. Terminally if you don't keep on top of it. I've witnessed bad rust on Mazda and Toyota cars.

 

My current favorite rust protection products 1) Owatrol Oil for externally facing body/ wheel arches/suspension/ backplates/subframes - rust inhibitor that sets to a clearish resin finish and doesn't wash off 2) Dinitrol cavity wax - inside chassis, sills, door/boot bottoms. 

 

Thank you!

do you have any guide to rust protection? What tools do I need, how to get into sills, how to prepare for the rust protection, how to maintain?

thank you again! This was very helpful.

[TDIMachoMan]

5 hours ago, xman said:

I've seen taillgate rust around the number plate lights a few times, usualy coming from the inside.

I believe the water gets trapped somewhere and it starts the whole process:(

[bigjohn]

2 hours ago, TDIMachoMan said:

Thank you!

do you have any guide to rust protection? What tools do I need, how to get into sills, how to prepare for the rust protection, how to maintain?

thank you again! This was very helpful.

 

The Dinitrol kit I've used is linked below and contains an extension wand that reaches well down the sill so you can rust proof from drain points. On my Superb they were either end behind the wheel arch liners -- not sure re the Octavia III (I'll check my son's mkIII next time I see it). Look out for any drain holes / and or bungs - good access points for Dinitrol extension.  I've done all the door/boot/bunnet bottoms on our fleet as well as sills, some chassis etc.

 

Re Owatrol - simply clean and hand wire brush any mud / debris. You don't have to remove light surface rust, Then cover either with the aerosol (great for quick cover of suspension etc) or paint on with a brush (great for blathering spring cups etc).

As an example my wife got a a garden ornament that you hung up a few years ago and within a day or so it was quickly looking awful with rust and she was rather upset - I dried and blathered with Owatrol and it's still looking ok many years later. Also  in addition we painted her 1.2 Panda's rusty sump with Owatrol and it's still looking ok.

 

All of the above makes a mess - worth an old ground sheet below if you have one. Leave a while for it to settle after treatment so you don't leave a trail of  rustproofing stuff!

 

 

 

 

Links:-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0076L4BII/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Paint-Additive/dp/B0038LWMFY/ref=sr_1_2_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662684&sr=8-2

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Additive-0-500/dp/B002YXXQJS/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662754&sr=8-3

 

I had some trapped debris behind my wheelarch liners and a sill drain was blocked - used a thin knitting needle to clear. Offending garden ornament at the bottom:-

 

Edited 5 March by bigjohn

[TDIMachoMan]

10 hours ago, bigjohn said:

 

The Dinitrol kit I've used is linked below and contains an extension wand that reaches well down the sill so you can rust proof from drain points. On my Superb they were either end behind the wheel arch liners -- not sure re the Octavia III (I'll check my son's mkIII next time I see it). Look out for any drain holes / and or bungs - good access points for Dinitrol extension.  I've done all the door/boot/bunnet bottoms on our fleet as well as sills, some chassis etc.

 

Re Owatrol - simply clean and hand wire brush any mud / debris. You don't have to remove light surface rust, Then cover either with the aerosol (great for quick cover of suspension etc) or paint on with a brush (great for blathering spring cups etc).

As an example my wife got a a garden ornament that you hung up a few years ago and within a day or so it was quickly looking awful with rust and she was rather upset - I dried and blathered with Owatrol and it's still looking ok many years later. Also  in addition we painted her 1.2 Panda's rusty sump with Owatrol and it's still looking ok.

 

All of the above makes a mess - worth an old ground sheet below if you have one. Leave a while for it to settle after treatment so you don't leave a trail of  rustproofing stuff!

 

 

 

 

Links:-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0076L4BII/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Paint-Additive/dp/B0038LWMFY/ref=sr_1_2_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662684&sr=8-2

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Additive-0-500/dp/B002YXXQJS/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662754&sr=8-3

 

I had some trapped debris behind my wheelarch liners and a sill drain was blocked - used a thin knitting needle to clear. Offending garden ornament at the bottom:-

 

So thankful for your information

I checked my car this morning and you were right about everything. There is a lot of gunk behind the front mudflaps, same for rear panel, where body and bumper meets in the wheelhouse. It already started to rust

i will lift up the car and get the closer look with the wheels removed and uptade here with the images.

[EnterName]

13 hours ago, bigjohn said:

 

The Dinitrol kit I've used is linked below and contains an extension wand that reaches well down the sill so you can rust proof from drain points. On my Superb they were either end behind the wheel arch liners -- not sure re the Octavia III (I'll check my son's mkIII next time I see it). Look out for any drain holes / and or bungs - good access points for Dinitrol extension.  I've done all the door/boot/bunnet bottoms on our fleet as well as sills, some chassis etc.

 

Re Owatrol - simply clean and hand wire brush any mud / debris. You don't have to remove light surface rust, Then cover either with the aerosol (great for quick cover of suspension etc) or paint on with a brush (great for blathering spring cups etc).

As an example my wife got a a garden ornament that you hung up a few years ago and within a day or so it was quickly looking awful with rust and she was rather upset - I dried and blathered with Owatrol and it's still looking ok many years later. Also  in addition we painted her 1.2 Panda's rusty sump with Owatrol and it's still looking ok.

 

All of the above makes a mess - worth an old ground sheet below if you have one. Leave a while for it to settle after treatment so you don't leave a trail of  rustproofing stuff!

 

 

 

 

Links:-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0076L4BII/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Paint-Additive/dp/B0038LWMFY/ref=sr_1_2_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662684&sr=8-2

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Additive-0-500/dp/B002YXXQJS/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662754&sr=8-3

 

I had some trapped debris behind my wheelarch liners and a sill drain was blocked - used a thin knitting needle to clear.

 

 

Thanks for the link! 👍

Did you remove the wheel arch liner before treatment, @bigjohn?

[TDIMachoMan]

1 hour ago, EnterName said:

Thanks for the link! 👍

Did you remove the wheel arch liner before treatment, @bigjohn?

I believe so, I will absolutely do it on my car

 

edit: I think the only thing you need is t20 or t25, perhaps socket 10.

Edited 6 March by TDIMachoMan

[bigjohn]

On 06/03/2024 at 08:04, EnterName said:

Thanks for the link! 👍

Did you remove the wheel arch liner before treatment, @bigjohn?

 

I undid a few screws and pulled out a bit at each end. I also sprayed inside up and over onto the inside of wheel arches etc. That extension wand was useful!

 

Infact it reminds me - I'll have another look see and quick top up of rustproofing of the fleet as it warms up in the spring. One good thing on my Superb II is I don't have the inner wing large sound proofing foam pads(might be because mine is a petrol) - if you encounter those I'd be tempted to remove as they trap moisture & condensation against the bodywork. That's why you see rusty front wings on some ageing VWs and Audis - especially Passats.

 

The old timer is now 10 years old and I've had it for 9 of those years. Looking a lot better than the previous 2003 Superb at the same age which wasn't lavished with the same treatment - I now have more time on my hands as I retired three years ago. Still looking reasonable:-

 

 

 

 

Edited 10 March by bigjohn

[EnterName]

12 hours ago, bigjohn said:

 

I undid a few screws and pulled out a bit at each end. I also sprayed inside up and over onto the inside of wheel arches etc. That extension wand was useful!

 

Infact it reminds me - I'll have another look see and quick top up of rustproofing of the fleet as it warms up in the spring. One good thing on my Superb II is I don't have the inner wing large sound proofing foam pads(might be because mine is a petrol) - if you encounter those I'd be tempted to remove as they trap moisture & condensation against the bodywork. That's why you see rusty front wings on some ageing VWs and Audis - especially Passats.

 

The old timer is now 10 years old and I've had it for 9 of those years. Looking a lot better than the previous 2003 Superb at the same age which wasn't lavished with the same treatment - I now have more time on my hands as I retired three years ago. Still looking reasonable:-

 

 

 

Looks great!

[varaderoguy]

I've just started on my 2020 MK3 Octavia.  Like the MK7 Golfs, they all rust in the wheel arch area.  Its important to spend a day, taking out the wheel arch liners, using a jet washer to clear out the tutt....then using a waxoil or tetroseal clear coating, spray loads of protecting wax at the sils (especially near the "sponge" at the back of the wheel arch), down the sill and especially at the top of the struts (which also attract loads of road grime).  

[TDIMachoMan]

On 06/03/2024 at 19:56, bigjohn said:

 

I undid a few screws and pulled out a bit at each end. I also sprayed inside up and over onto the inside of wheel arches etc. That extension wand was useful!

 

Infact it reminds me - I'll have another look see and quick top up of rustproofing of the fleet as it warms up in the spring. One good thing on my Superb II is I don't have the inner wing large sound proofing foam pads(might be because mine is a petrol) - if you encounter those I'd be tempted to remove as they trap moisture & condensation against the bodywork. That's why you see rusty front wings on some ageing VWs and Audis - especially Passats.

 

The old timer is now 10 years old and I've had it for 9 of those years. Looking a lot better than the previous 2003 Superb at the same age which wasn't lavished with the same treatment - I now have more time on my hands as I retired three years ago. Still looking reasonable:-

 

 

 

Wow! 
I love those lines! For sure the future classic 

[TDIMachoMan]

On 07/03/2024 at 13:54, varaderoguy said:

I've just started on my 2020 MK3 Octavia.  Like the MK7 Golfs, they all rust in the wheel arch area.  Its important to spend a day, taking out the wheel arch liners, using a jet washer to clear out the tutt....then using a waxoil or tetroseal clear coating, spray loads of protecting wax at the sils (especially near the "sponge" at the back of the wheel arch), down the sill and especially at the top of the struts (which also attract loads of road grime).  

Thank you!

feel free to share images of your project  

I will post some later, it is still cold here in Sweden for such a project hahaha.

[bigjohn]

On 07/03/2024 at 12:54, varaderoguy said:

especially near the "sponge" at the back of the wheel arch)

 

These "sponges" do long term damage trapping moisture against metal eventually causing rust, Not all cars have them. Trapped debris causes more havoc though. 

 

One thing I forgot to mention - before I rustproof door bottoms etc I squirt in 3 in 1 through all the drains as the thin oil soaks into the seams , followed by Dinitrol. 

 

Before I found Dinitrol I used a warmed up Waxoyl (paraffin based)  and clean engine oil mix internally  and underneath I "painted" on clean engine oil every where especially over recent welding followed the next day on exposed panels Waxoyl Underseal which mixed with the oil creating a goo mess that lasts! I now prefer Owatrol oil as if you missed a bit  as above you didn't see any trapped rust as it was blacked over - saying that I re encountered a Morris 1000 that I restored in 1988 and it was still tacky underneath! and generally rust free except the bottom of the boot lid - but that was perfect in 1988 so I think I ignored, oops.

 

Edited 10 March by bigjohn

[TDIMachoMan]

What do you think about bitumen based rust coating?

[TDIMachoMan]

Update:

It looked pretty good after I removed all the dirt that was sitting there. But still I brushed with a dremel and cleaned afterwards with a rubbing alcohol and layered bitumen based rust protection with a brush