4 hours ago, nta16 said:

 Tipex is fine too (unless they've changed the formula).

 

 

Can find this product.

 

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

as the nut remains secure in its position.

 

Behind the main bolt is a plastic cap

 

 

then a small ring (not visible here) , the windshield wiper and the final bolt comes and presses down all of them.

No matter of how tight the big bolt is, for sure due to the 2 rubber washers there would be a tolerance to the whole structure so the move left-right of the mechanism wont transmit the vibrations straight to the metal body of the car.

I thought the plastic cup was rubber, if it's shaped and angled it might be to allow for angle of metal door panel skin, if you have this fitted check you have it at the correct angle/orientation as that may give you more exposed threads on the motor shaft.

 

Sorry I put Tipex wrong, it should be Tipp-Ex, white correction fluid  for paper forms and the like, if you have ever been in an office a few years back you would probably have seen it, not so common now and if you don't have a bottle of the fluid that hasn't dried out forget it.  Also used to use it to highlight timing marks, position of nuts and bolts when tightened, it lasted long enough for reassurance and sometimes a very long time on things like CB points distributors.  Little bottle with brush or foam applicator so easier to get in spaces, bright white so stood out and easy to see. - https://www.viking-direct.co.uk/en/p/4900

 

Edited 1 April, 20242 yr by nta16
spelling

12 hours ago, nta16 said:

Sorry I put Tipex wrong, it should be Tipp-Ex

 

Yes i know it, from the beginning of 80's we call it ''correctional fluid" here.

On the other hand i know that thread lock can hurt plastics, so if i put on the thread (and the bolt push it downward) won't affect those 2 rubber washers?

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

On the other hand i know that thread lock can hurt plastics, so if i put on the thread (and the bolt push it downward) won't affect those 2 rubber washers?

Good point, I know generally they're not for plastic threads but I don't know if they would really do any harm to the rubber washers in this instance as the rubber is not holding fluids in under pressure and just holding out ow pressure external rain or wash water.

 

You could perhaps clean off any excess or make sure none gets on or to the rubber washes by applying the threadlock only at a certain point of threads on the shaft cover arm threads, or coat the rubber washers in silicone grease at the possible threadlock excess contact area.

 

If you are really worried or need to know then best to contact the manufacturer of the threadlock for its suitability against rubber as a non-binding or sealing agent.

 

ETA: Personally I'd not give it a second thought.

 

Edited 2 April, 20242 yr by nta16
ETA:

Maybe few drops of Cyanoacrylate glue is the solution for the bolt to ''stay tight".

Gorilla is the only "super glue" I've found that sticks anything and not just my fingers but I've no idea of how it is with metal threads, thing is if it sticks well you might have to ruin the nut and possibly metal/rubber washers to get the nut off again and still might have a bit of the nut stuck to the motor threads.

 

Here is the play test 

I can not see it in PC

 

 

but i saw it in smartphone.

Mine is 95% like yours, if i move it harder i have a tiny slacken feeling but from the rear of the motor

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2024_03/PPM.jpg.c5dc931fe446f6ee0f49b6654a042dfe.jpg

 

Since there is a rubber ''base'' (yellow arrow) there, for sure there would be a tiny amount of tolerance (red arrow), i don't think it's significant and can cause any problems in the future but only the time (of use) will tell.

 

 

5 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I can not see it in PC

huh i wonder why?

5 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Since there is a rubber ''base'' (yellow arrow) there, for sure there would be a tiny amount of tolerance (red arrow), i don't think it's significant and can cause any problems in the future but only the time (of use) will tell.

How long are you planning of keeping the felly, whatever the case I think you would at least get 2 winters out of it

5 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

huh i wonder why?

 

How long are you planning of keeping the felly, whatever the case I think you would at least get 2 winters out of it

 

I don't know, i have Windows 10 and Mozilla.

As long as i can, i pay a loan for my house so i don't want to get another one to buy new car.

If it broke i would buy from another brand.

 

 

Update: Today i done an about 50 Km distance test for the new G12 coolant and the new gear box oil, that test began with problems (more on this in the other topic) but in the end of the test while i was in the Highway i had the idea to test the rear wind shield wiper.

I press the lever, a ''Gkkkkk" sound heard, the wiper moved about 20cm and then stopped ! Immediately i start slandering the Chinese but the most terrifying thing was that after a while a bad smell came to my nose, my first thought was the coolant, i thought that some of this spilled outside the lose cap so the smell comes from the engine bay. The cabin start smell badly, full of agony arrived home, opened the hood and nothing, everything was fine.

I went to the trunk and the bolt of the wiper blade axis was extremely hot, like something was burning beneath it. In a phrenitis situation i grab my tools (see @Thefeliciahacker ,that's why i have them al the time in my car), remove the cover and i saw something like light smoke and a bad odour was everywhere. 😲

The wiper blade motor was extremely hot, i couldn't touch it with my bare hands, i was afraid for fire so i wear my gloves, unbolt everything and pull that damned motor out. Except that bad smell i has a ''varnish'' spilled from the rotor all around, i cover the hole from inside with 2 layers of tape, wipe everything i could see, spray a car perfume and close the panel.

It's already an hour and that cursed f****n motor still is hot and smells, i removed the cover and everything inside is burned, 100% black. Photos from this tomorrow.

@nta16 i think i will never install a new motor again, i will leave it as is, after that terror that i lived today i prefer to don't have a rear wind shield wiper.

The first thing I would do is pull the fuse out or unplug the negative battery terminal 

Here is that damned VIKA motor, still stings and i will send it to recycle bin today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Winding is totally burned.

Before you trash it can you turn the rotor or is the gearbox jammed?

I best not put what I think about Chinese goods and their enablers.

 

5 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Before you trash it can you turn the rotor or is the gearbox jammed?

Good idea to find out why it jammed or burnt out just in case it wasn't the fault of the motor - but D.FYLAKTOS would never trust this one again even if it could be repaired,

 

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Before you trash it can you turn the rotor or is the gearbox jammed?

 

No gears jammed and the rotor can spin freely by hand, it's all black and stings awful, that odour even after 24hours can not disappear, i can not have it my balcony any more, my wife grunge that the whole place smells like sh@t.

@nta16 I think i will have to use the ''manual'' procedure, every gas station in GR beside the pumps has a bucket with water-soap and a stick wiper blade, Free use from the customers.

 

https://envirol.gr/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/post_prathrioΕΚΟ_06-1024x683.jpg

 

https://www.eea.gr/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/KAUSIMA_KAYSIMA__4_.JPG

6 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

No gears jammed and the rotor can spin freely by hand, it's all black and stings awful, that odour even after 24hours can not disappear, i can not have it my balcony any more, my wife grunge that the whole place smells like sh@t.

so when you turn it it turns the output shaft?

 

 

The whole system could turn freely, no jam but the axis was turned ''crazy'' (as we say here) which means no gear moving from the other side.

The wires are all burned.

 

7 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

every gas station in GR beside the pumps has a bucket with water-soap and a stick wiper blade, Free use from the customers.

And/or carry your own windscreen washer diluted fluid in a small spray bottle and cleaning microfibre cloth(s), that what I used to do for the bugs om the very upright windscreens of "classic" cars.

 

Edited 16 June, 20241 yr by nta16

Now act like I didn't advise you to buy THE original, I even provided a link.
The brush broke and jammed the motor see one contact of the armature is completely destroyed and the brush holder is twisted

No front windscreen wipers today, check and found a 20A burned fuse (from the rear motor).

I don't know if or when i will buy a new motor.

8 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

No front windscreen wipers today, check and found a 20A burned fuse

the fuse saved you from a fire

Probably yes.

Due to heat the motor winding varnish was spilled all around and the grease from the side which were the gears was not on them but in the side walls. I don't know these how long would last.

As for comford: even the Jaguar F-Type R here in Greece has not rear windscreen wiper. 

Fuse would save the wiring, well except for any that was caught in a fire.