2 hours ago, J.R. said:

In this instance I am going to disagree with Sepulchrave, but that is based on my successful experience but he may well have encountered more resistant or inaccessible ones.

 

VW ones and recently too, insanely tight, also REALLY unsafe on a petrol car compared to diesel, which is what I had to deal with due to a failed lift pump.

 

Don't try and remove it unless you're certain the pump's failed and DO NOT try and test it unless the pump is completely removed and bench tested, one spark and the petrol fumes will ignite leading to a fatal explosion.

 

Hence my advice about having the correct tool.

Point taken, I agree.

11 hours ago, Jocko said:

Ubuy.co.in sell https://www.ubuy.co.in/product/PHUCRO8-lphumex-fuel-pump-removal-tool-fuel-pump-lock-ring-tool-fuel-tank-repair-kit-fuel-tank-lid-cover-remove-spanner-3-8-to-1-2-adjustable-lock-ring-spanne?ref=list-gs&st=gs

for INR 2202 (£20.37 or 24.17 Euros).

Thank you for the link. This is the one I was mentioning about. With shipping and import taxes it nearly doubles in cost. I will make a tool incase the wood hack does not work. It is mighty encouraging for me to note the active interest you all are taking in the revival of my car. Thank you very much indeed.

10 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

VW ones and recently too, insanely tight, also REALLY unsafe on a petrol car compared to diesel, which is what I had to deal with due to a failed lift pump.

 

Don't try and remove it unless you're certain the pump's failed and DO NOT try and test it unless the pump is completely removed and bench tested, one spark and the petrol fumes will ignite leading to a fatal explosion.

 

Hence my advice about having the correct tool.

Absolutely. Safety first. Will be testing the electrical before starting to dismantle. The batteries will be disconnected and tank emptied. The reason for asking for an alternate tool was the cost of the tool. It is about 500 Euros which is just too much. I will make the tool in case the wood hack does not work. Thanks for the help and the caution advised, much appreciated.

Have you confirmed the pump is getting a supply voltage and isn't running? There is no point in doing anything else until you have ascertained these points.

On 20/07/2024 at 14:02, Jocko said:

Have you confirmed the pump is getting a supply voltage and isn't running? There is no point in doing anything else until you have ascertained these points.

So finally we have a dry spell in Bombay. Opened up the fuel pump connector and checked for voltage. The connector has the hook in the middle and you will need a pin to push it to open. Struggled for some time and then used the tool I had to open trims to open it. Image attached. 

 

The pump was covered in thin layer of dust. Used a brush to clean and then the spilled petrol to wipe. 

Fuel pump pin 1 and 4 I gave a reading of 4 volts. Did not have any help to crank the engine and check voltage at the same time. Are the reading different in crank and in on position?
The resistance in the pump male pins was 1.0, does that mean the pump is ok?
There was absolutely no sound of priming by the pump when I opened the fuel lid to hear
I have poured in about 4 litres of petrol, you think I should pour out more to reach a level for pump to prime?

The fuel lines both black and blue had very little petrol in them. In fact the overall spillage was less than 10ml
The engine bay fuel line too had just a wet patch, there was no spillage. The return line (blue was dry). I could smell petrol but nothing was trickling out.

Cleaned the fuel pump top, pipes and installed them back.
 

Now the confusing part. I had a fuse diagram which indicated fuse no.20 to be fuel pump however, that slot is empty in my car. I am confused, how can I get a voltage reading with no fuse in place. Please help with the correct fuel pump fuse number. If possible please share an image for reference. 

 

It is turning out to be a long post. Thank you all for the support and hopefully the mystery of fuel supply will get sorted soon. Just hoping not having to to open the pump before all these issues are sorted. 

Had disconnected the battery and used milld force to work. Connected the battery only when all fuel pipes were properly plugged in. 

Also, can someone suggest how to check for fuel in the tank. I pushed in a pipe to siphon of some fuel and drew nothing. Got the petrol vapours into my mouth but nothing else. The pipe also came out dry but had oil residue and smelled on petrol. 

 

Is it possible that there actually is no petrol in the tank and I should put in about 10 litres for the pump to prime and send it in the lines?

This tool was used to open the connector. The clip engages in the middle and the helped move it easy. Pressing the tab wasn't releasing the clip. 

According to my manual, the fuse for the fuel pump up to February 2010 is SB30. It is a 15A fuse. SB20 is for models after that date. Looking at your photo would suggest it is the 15A fuse, at the bottom, between the 10A fuses.

With the ignition on you should get 12V across the pump, cranking or not.

Edited 26 July, 20241 yr by Jocko

23 minutes ago, Jocko said:

24 minutes ago, Jocko said:

According to my manual, the fuse for the fuel pump up to February 2010 is SB30. It is a 15A fuse. SB20 is for models after that date. Looking at your photo would suggest it is the 15A fuse, at the bottom, between the 10A fuses.

With the ignition on you should get 12V across the pump, cranking or not.

Noted. SB 30 is present, it is 15A fuse and looks ok. I am not getting 12V. What could be cause for this? Perhaps because of low voltage the pump isn't starting. Any leads to chase on this issue?

3 hours ago, Fotobob said:

Had disconnected the battery and used milld force to work. Connected the battery only when all fuel pipes were properly plugged in. 

Also, can someone suggest how to check for fuel in the tank. I pushed in a pipe to siphon of some fuel and drew nothing. Got the petrol vapours into my mouth but nothing else. The pipe also came out dry but had oil residue and smelled on petrol. 

 

Is it possible that there actually is no petrol in the tank and I should put in about 10 litres for the pump to prime and send it in the lines?

 

Just put a spare can full of petrol in it in case you've run out!

Voltage should be between Blu/Wht and Brown/Violet. If no 12V, check between Blu/Wht and an earth point on the bodywork.

On 27/07/2024 at 00:58, Jocko said:

Voltage should be between Blu/Wht and Brown/Violet. If no 12V, check between Blu/Wht and an earth point on the bodywork.

Is it possible for you to confirm the voltage reading in your car? Does it show 12 in on position and does not rise with cranking. 
If so, it will help me zero in on the fault. I will then run a wire from battery and supply to pump to see if it work. That way we know if it is wiring or relay related issue.

I am really thankful to you guys helping me out, I seem to find no help locally

4 hours ago, Fotobob said:

Is it possible for you to confirm the voltage reading in your car?

Sorry, I am disabled and not physically able to do what you ask. However, I can confirm that you should have 12v on the pump when the ignition is on as this diagram shows.

Are the contacts of fuse 30 clean - not corroded, and is the fuse a good fit (not loose) in the fusebox contacts?

 

On 31/07/2024 at 02:00, Jocko said:

Sorry, I am disabled and not physically able to do what you ask. However, I can confirm that you should have 12v on the pump when the ignition is on as this diagram shows.

Oh, I was not aware of it. The voltage should be 12V which it isn't currently. Will trace back the points as per this diagram and try and locate the issue. Thanks

On 31/07/2024 at 02:04, Breezy_Pete said:

Are the contacts of fuse 30 clean - not corroded, and is the fuse a good fit (not loose) in the fusebox contacts?

 

The fuse is ok and fits well. As mentioned in the above post, probably somewhere along the supply line something is wrong. I am suspecting the relays. If the wires were chewed off they will they give lower voltage? I am hoping for a relay fault. 

Remove fuse 30 then, with the ignition on, check for 12v between one end of the fuse holder and a good earth. With the fuse out only the supply end of the holder should be live.

On 01/08/2024 at 15:28, Jocko said:

Remove fuse 30 then, with the ignition on, check for 12v between one end of the fuse holder and a good earth. With the fuse out only the supply end of the holder should be live.

Will attempt this today. Was down for some time and will be able to do this today. No idea where the earth is in the Fabia, will look up the net and proceed. Expect an update today.

13 minutes ago, Fotobob said:

No idea where the earth is in the Fabia

Any bit of clean metalwork will do. Or a bit wire connected to the battery negative.

On 08/08/2024 at 11:59, Jocko said:

Any bit of clean metalwork will do. Or a bit wire connected to the battery negative.

Did exactly this, got the earth from battery and tested each fuse. Attached is an image noting the values. Blue ticks are blanks, green are 12+ volts and Red ones are the trouble values. Sincerely hope you guys can guide me and help locate the source of this problem. Thanks

As you can see the supply voltage is 4+ volts for the fuel pump fuse. Besides this another large junk is drawing nothing. Hope you guys can spot the issue and guide me here. Thanks

On 26/07/2024 at 15:23, Fotobob said:

Is it possible that there actually is no petrol in the tank

 

On 20/07/2024 at 07:47, Fotobob said:

The batteries will be disconnected and tank emptied.

 

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

 

Can you repost, not seeing any text in the message. Thanks

4 hours ago, Fotobob said:

As you can see the supply voltage is 4+ volts for the fuel pump fuse. Besides this another large junk is drawing nothing. Hope you guys can spot the issue and guide me here. Thanks

Did you measure these voltages with the ignition on? Did you remove the fuel pump fuse before you measured the voltage?