1 minute ago, SuperbTWM said:

 

Might just be the DMF? If I raise the idle slightly in my Passat to just over 1000 and hold it there I get the same increased wobblyness that can be felt while in the drivers seat. Smooth as silk in the rest of the rev range

Oh, I didn't think of that. Would explain why there were no scary numbers. 

 

Thanks so much. That link in previous post looks like a wealth of info to digest.

Got a spare cam cover gasket this morning at GSF, and ordered a set of timing tools to come tomorrow. 

Just hoping I can get enough access to get the crank lock thing in without having to hinge the front of the car forward. From brief attempts with some of the accessible fasteners,  I'm pretty sure the front bumper has never been off.

[Which, now that I type that, makes me wonder if/how the belt was changed in 2020, as the service book claims...].

Don't forget to have some suitable sealant for the corners where the top half of the cam bearing mounts to the cylinder head when you refit the cam cover. Not sure if the tandem pump side needs a dab as well. I omitted this and it started to weep after a while.

 

I think if you remove the viscous fan and have enough room to take the pulley off you will get to to put the locking tool in, maybe even from underneath without removing the fan? The compressor also has its own little belt from what I remember? Putting the front end in the service position is one of those jobs you can do in no time unless it's the first time 😂, You will need some stud bar though, something to think about getting in stock if you do end up needing to do the belt.

PWMed single electric fan on this one, not sure how easy it is to shed.

I did pick up some gloop for the corners of the gasket, ta.

I think the compressor and PAS are all on the same aux belt?

 

Think the belt is first target though, maybe this weekend, or next week. Nothing much else is going on, right? 😄

Edited 17 December, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

You should be able to visually inspect the belt easy enough and also set it at TDC to check the timing marks without needing to use the locking plate, reserve it for when you actually change the belt. If the cam timing looks correct, and with 1.5° torsion angle I dont think its a tooth out you might want to try a tiny movement of the adjustable pulley, someone earlier confirmed which way to tweak it, you will feel the result immediately whether its an improvement or worse.

 

Re the slow warm up, yes thats a real feature of the PD engine due to its thermal efficiency, I found that once the stat had opened it would remain at the correct operating temperature even if I reverted to economic driving, I found the best way was to wait for a decent hill after say 4 miles and accelerate up it, it only needs to be a few hundred yards for the stat to start to open, once there is some flow it regulates far better.

 

You could also open up the bleed hole in the stat or drill one if it does not have one.

6 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I think the compressor and PAS are all on the same aux belt?

 

Must be the differences in the older generations and the newer 115, I had to contend with the horrible fan (think there was also a smaller electric fan as well and the 2 Aux. belts, quite a nice feature though when the compressor pulley/clutch drops to bits and you don't lose the power steering or alternator 

How would I know the crank is at TDC when one of the marks that  I'm supposed to line up with is on the locking tool? 

1 minute ago, SuperbTWM said:

 

Must be the differences in the older generations and the newer 115, I had to contend with the horrible fan (think there was also a smaller electric fan as well and the 2 Aux. belts, quite a nice feature though when the compressor pulley/clutch drops to bits and you don't lose the power steering or alternator 

The second time the missus stalled it yesterday she was going round a mini roundabout.

PASless it's a beast to steer, as I found out the other day.  Not that a separate belt would've helped in that situation.

18 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

How would I know the crank is at TDC when one of the marks that  I'm supposed to line up with is on the locking tool? 

@J.R., this is what I'm hoping to set up at the bottom end, then see if the pin will go in at the cam sprocket, or the marks at the back of it and head vaguely line up.

 

You deffinetly can't recover a diesel from letting the engine speed drop like you can on a petrol, the stalling is quite abrupt, is it just not quite selecting a low enough gear for the speed/unfamiliarity with the car?

 

Mine has push button start and if you stall it the engine will resart itself (most of the time) The few seconds it takes feels like a bloody lifetime though when traffic is behind you

 

17 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

How would I know the crank is at TDC when one of the marks that  I'm supposed to line up with is on the locking tool? 

 

That's what I was thinking, unaware of any other marks but ive always used to tool so have never really looked. Both require taking the same amount of parts off so you might as well put the locking tool in?

22 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

PASless it's a beast to steer, as I found out the other day. 

I had the PAS belt on my Octy break, and it was like having total arm failure!

2 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

You deffinetly can't recover a diesel from letting the engine speed drop like you can on a petrol, the stalling is quite abrupt, is it just not quite selecting a low enough gear for the speed/unfamiliarity with the car?

Yep, no warning stumble really, just bang! off!

I must admit I have got used to avoiding the stall, but my impression is it should be much harder to accidentally do so than it is. 

 

Perhaps cos the DMF has too much waggle? Or would that make it more forgiving, not sure!

11 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

You deffinetly can't recover a diesel from letting the engine speed drop like you can on a petrol, the stalling is quite abrupt, is it just not quite selecting a low enough gear for the speed/unfamiliarity with the car?

 

 

11 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Yep, no warning stumble really, just bang! off!

I must admit I have got used to avoiding the stall, but my impression is it should be much harder to accidentally do so than it is. 

I stalled my PD130 a couple of times, as you say it was really sudden, and restarting seemed to take longer than a normal start which was really frustrating.

My Octy PD was mated to a DSG, which IMO suited it perfectly.

 

I'm sure some of you love a manual gearbox but I previously had a Saab 93 (yes, this was CR though and I know the PD had a bit more low down pull) but frequently i'd be approaching an island in second gear, or just dropped it into second, and then decided I could go, the gearbox frequently decided that I couldn't.......... It never stalled though.

13 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Perhaps cos the DMF has too much waggle? Or would that make it more forgiving, not sure!

 At least it’s still waggling, mine seized into a solid mass and was incredibly unbalanced. 

Re the timing marks, I'm sure there must be a TDC mark on the crank pulley to align with one fixed on the block, perhaps it is hidden behind the locking tool on the photograph?

 

Re stalling, its really because of the much taller gearing in first and second gear and that a diesel engine can not have the same effective type of idle stabilisation that a petrol engine does, with the greater low down torque we are used to letting the revs drop lower in a diesel engine than a petrol but you hit the point of no return and BANG! it feels like the engine has thrown a rod.

 

A worn DMF makes the brutality of an engine stall even worse and it also manifests on shut down although the throttle/anti-shudder valve minimises that.

3 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

 At least it’s still waggling, mine seized into a solid mass and was incredibly unbalanced. 

I've no idea what it's doing. New experience for me having one.

14 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Observed something interesting yesterday evening while looking at measuring blocks. Nothing I actually saw being weird in the measurements,  but with a mid-temperature engine idling in a car park, I found that I could make it feel like it was misfiring by *raising the revs to a particular speed around 1150* or so. Whole car shaking a bit. 

 

On 13/11/2024 at 19:29, Tilt said:

Anyway, just to share my experience regarding the DMF on my long possessed but recently sold, 2005 Octavia 1.9pd

 

When I test drove it back in 2011, I noticed a distinct rattle most notable from just behind the nsf wheel,

 

 

Maybe get someone to do *this* whilst you have a listen from outside the car Pete. It may give you a little more info on this if it may be be an issue or not 

Edited 18 December, 20241 yr by Tilt

2 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Re the timing marks, I'm sure there must be a TDC mark on the crank pulley to align with one fixed on the block, perhaps it is hidden behind the locking tool on the photograph?

I'll report back once the eyeballs or camera phone have had a look.

 

Re stalling, its really because of the much taller gearing in first and second gear and that a diesel engine can not have the same effective type of idle stabilisation that a petrol engine does, with the greater low down torque we are used to letting the revs drop lower in a diesel engine than a petrol but you hit the point of no return and BANG! it feels like the engine has thrown a rod.

 

A worn DMF makes the brutality of an engine stall even worse and it also manifests on shut down although the throttle/anti-shudder valve minimises that.

Not noticed anything untoward at shutdown,

 

4 minutes ago, Tilt said:

 

 

Maybe get someone to do *this* whilst you have a listen from outside the car Pete. It may give you a little more info on this if it may be be an issue or not 

Ta; but this engine is longitudinally mounted, so I guess I'd have to be listening somewhere under the gearstick instead.

Some decent progress today. 

Got the front off into the service position.  Which gives you about 50mm more clearance in front of the crank pulley, but still nothing approaching a view of it without a phone camera, from above or below! 

 

Had to take a pic to see what heads the 4 screws that hold the pulley had.

Triple-square; nice.

 

 

Pulley came off without difficulty, thankfully.

 

No sign of any alignment marks on the block. The little triangle/ arrow on the sprocket is visible at about 10 o'clock in tjis shot,  and the hole on the block that the locking tool uses is visible looking a bit oval, which I think is a trick of the light and shadows from photography. 

 

Got the locking tool in a after a while, and of course the crank needed to go another 360° before the '4Z' lined up correctly with the narrow slot on the cam sensor wheel.

2nd time lucky:

 

Couldn't quite get the cam locking pin in through the cam pulley/sprocket,  but I could see it was very close, although even there the visibility is rubbish! Couldn't get a photo that showed how close it was down the slot/ hole. I could get a slightly smaller diameter drill in though, so it's not far away.

 

The tensioner looked to be a fair bit out, I think on the loose side, which may be the next thing to address, tomorrow. 

 

 

Edited 22 December, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete
Sp

A couple of useful byproducts of the day's work.

The A/C condenser was looking very clagged-up with 17 year's worth of muck. PO reported that A/C works fine except when ambient temps are really warm, when apparently it throws codes related to G65 sensor. I reckon it may have just been struggling through lack of airflow. 

Vacuumed out thoroughly, but I may take a hosepipe to it once I've covered up all the cambelt stuff.

 

The crash bar appeared to have suffered from an impact. First I thought,  hmm Eddie never mentioned crashing into something. Then I remembered the muntjac, and thought "didn't think it was that much of an impact".

 

Then I started looking for replacements an found that they all look the same; as do some of the new aftermarket ones, so maybe this is just how they are??

 

I wonder if I should just replace belt kit and waterpump, now I'm this far in...?

46 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The crash bar appeared to have suffered from an impact. First I thought,  hmm Eddie never mentioned crashing into something. Then I remembered the muntjac, and thought "didn't think it was that much of an impact".

 

Then I started looking for replacements an found that they all look the same; as do some of the new aftermarket ones, so maybe this is just how they are??

 

I think it must be like that when new, it looks to be perfectly symmetrical.

49 minutes ago, Graham Butcher said:

I think it must be like that when new, it looks to be perfectly symmetrical.

 

An intended area to give in certain direction in the event of collision maybe?  I could see it pulling things inwards to crumple away rather than towards any impact area.  Just a guess mind.

 

Gaz