5 hours ago, somean49 said:

What is the missing component?

From reading 1..9 above, you have consistently assumed that the TP69 is actually draining ~3l of oil, despite the lack of any evidence (in your testimony) that this is actually the case.

Thanks for getting back Paws. The TP69 as you probably know has sections in the cylinder. The mech mate has previously said each section represents 1 litre. The bloody thing filled to about the third level and over. I knew from reading various critiques that these tools can't get all the oil out so I should have been more cautious.

After a night filled with nightmares, I am beginning to wonder whether the brass drain valve is not functioning properly. Though it's only been opened once.

To obviate the possibility of someone thinking my measurement of the oil is lacking I should say that I use a 2l measuring jug with a flexi-spout. Another Sealey job - so sorry to keep advertising

Quick thoughts.

 

Any chance the end of the suction tube is stuck down the dip hole hole of further?

 

Couldn't you mechanic mate just remove the brass drain valve to have the drain hole fully open for draining?

 

Do your quantities include or exclude the oil filter?

 

Fill capacity obviously is related to drain capacity at the time various people will get various amounts by various methods but your figures cover a very wide range, your sucking out quantity seems high, what is the dry fill capacity of your engine?

 

That's all.

 

I 

16 minutes ago, nta16 said:

 

 

Fill capacity obviously is related to drain capacity at the time various people will get various amounts by various methods but your figures cover a very wide range, your sucking out quantity seems high, what is the dry fill capacity of your engine?

 

That's all.

 

I think the main failing here is trying to guess how much oil is in the engine by how much has been removed instead of using the dipstick. 

 

 

10 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Quick thoughts.

 

Any chance the end of the suction tube is stuck down the dip hole hole of further?

 

Couldn't you mechanic mate just remove the brass drain valve to have the drain hole fully open for draining?

 

Do your quantities include or exclude the oil filter?

 

Fill capacity obviously is related to drain capacity at the time various people will get various amounts by various methods but your figures cover a very wide range, your sucking out quantity seems high, what is the dry fill capacity of your engine?

 

That's all.

 

Thanks for this. Actually my mech mate was going to be asked to do the valve removal next but he seems to be off grid (maybe he expected my call!). Fill capacity is given as 3.5 litres. I renewed the filter when I first refilled the motor. I haven't touched it since ; without the handbook to hand I seem to remember that it accounts for about half a litre. As for Mr Sealey's device I know what I pushed into the hole came out entirely. I've used it a few times with success until now.

2 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

I 

I think the main failing here is trying to guess how much oil is in the engine by how much has been removed instead of using the dipstick. 

 

 

As an initial failure you may be right but I can't change it now. Wife was champing at the bit to get away on hol and I had suddenly realised my maintenance was overdue. I didn't like the idea of hammering the car down Mways with old oil. Car's only 80500 and I had promised my wife I would drive it into the ground by the time I drop off the twig. Foolish? Yeah maybe but how long is a short piece of string?

You're going to have to be in a right state not to outlast a 2010 VW, perhaps if it were a 2005 or earlier (last century/millennium) it might stand of outlasting you! 🙂

 

3.5 might include or exclude oil filter and usually refers to a dry fill that isn't possible unless at factory or the engine has been fully pulled apart cleaned and dried on the draining board.  I've done a few engine, gearbox and axle oil (and coolant) changes over the decades and getting the oil as hot as possible, with drain holes usually at the very bottom,  leaving as long as practical as possible to drain, there was lots/plenty of residue oil (and muck) is left in,  Refill quantity is always less than is quoted in databases.  Each change is only partial the aim only to be as much as practically possible each time.  A cold quick change will also get a bit less than a very hot long drain.

 

I saw that you got 3l of oil out using your suckytub through the dipstick hole that seems good going so if you put about 3l or a bit less back in that should be good.  Depends which warning lights and alarms you mean but it might be one of the computer programs or sensors has now got a headache, they're very easy to upset, if it was me unless it was low oil pressure I'd leave the engine idling for a while and check the warning lights and gauges and/or take the car for a quick drive as the computers can get over things and settle down, mechanical checks like oil on dipstick are more usually more accurate and more reliable.

 

I almost feel off my chair when I saw the price of the TP69 but then I remembered the cost of my 30 year old Hozelok plastic pump-spray thing all those years back, that'll have to outlast me as I'm not paying to replace that! 😄

  

Remove the drain coc k completely, drain all the oil out, dont worry or confuse yourself about how much came out, your concern should be did all the oil come out, I shall assume you drained it on a level surface, if you are unsure add a little bit of fresh oil while the drain coc k is removed, it should dribble out within a couple of minutes.

 

The refill to a little less than the specified capacity if its 3.5 litres then fill with 3  litres, wait a few minutes and check the dipstick, if all is well then it will be in the middle of the hatched area or a little less, you can then top up bit by bit to the correct level allowing time for the oil to drain down to the sump each time.

 

If the dipstick level is implausible then investigate why before adding any more oil or running the engine/

 

Some other observations:

 

The flexible pipes that come with the suction kits are coiled in manufacture and transport and will never become straight, as you push them down the twisty dipstick tube they curl up, you cannot feel when they hit the bottom and they either dont reach it or curl up wit the end sitting higher, each way you cannot drain the whole contents.

 

I use copper brake and fuel pipes, or for my current vehicle which has an odd bore a copper hydraulic pipe, I have to manipulate and form it to get it all the way down and when I think it is there I pull it up and down tapping the bottom of the sup listening for the confirmation noise, then I drain until it makes the milkshake straw slurping noise.

 

When I replace the filter I use the same rod to drain the bottom of the housing (mine is an inverted filter like most) poking it down the 2 galleries, I get an extra 0.5l out this way and usually end up refilling with the specified quantity although I do it by the dispstick readings as above.

 

The dipstick when replaced should be pushed down firmly until you see and feel a positive click, if not then the level reading will be incorrect and you will add too much oil, it took me a couple of years before I realised.

 

Finally only ever take notice of how much oil you have added after being sure that you have fully drained the sump disregard how much you "think" you have drained out, it is irrelevant, use the dipstick for getting the final precise level after confirming that its indication is plausible with regard to how much oil you have put in.

Edited 23 September, 20241 yr by J.R.

@somean49   What is the engine, is it a 2010 1.2 TSI Euro 5,. chain drive and is it a 3.6 litre oil capacity not the 3.5 ? 

On 12/09/2024 at 11:44, somean49 said:

The engine is actually 1.4 TSI.

 

From table - "Approximative oil capacity with oil filter change".  - This is assuming the table is correct with all the information it gives, which it may or may not be, even if the source is the engine manufacturer.  You are either going to buy 3 or 4  (as appropriate) 1 litre bottles or a 4 or 5 litre 'can' depending on how much oil the engine wastes between fills or the large 'cans' may work out more economical, if not as easy to pour into the engine.

 

You don't want to damage the engine but there's no need to baby or pamper it (or it's computer programs).

 

13 hours ago, Ootohere said:

@somean49   What is the engine, is it a 2010 1.2 TSI Euro 5,. chain drive and is it a 3.6 litre oil capacity not the 3.5 ? 

The engine is designated as CAXA so apparently not on this table.

@somean49  Where did you find what the oil capacity is from an oil and filter change? 

 

3.5 or the 3.6 litres, just the difference of Ooo or Ahhh. 

But just needs checking once the change done, oil up to normal operating temp and not above area A of the dipstick.

(We always have to assume the correct dipstick for the engine is still being used.)

 

 

Edited 24 September, 20241 yr by Ootohere

A quick Google search gives a Golf and capacity as 3.6 litres but no more info than that number which, if correct, only gives you an approximation, presumably (always dangerous) you take off about 0.5l for filter so starting to fill with 2l seems a good choice.  If doing the work yourself and you're not a Billy-big-bo**ocks (large-testicles braggard) there's no need to rush the refill and it can be done in various stages adding a little at a time and checking, no need to work down to low professional standards.  I never fully top up until the next day after the car has parked overnight first and then been driven.  Depending on the car/engine I sometimes never fully top up (unless the car is going to get driven hard) and leave it at a level that it normally likes.

 

Absolute oil quantities don't matter you just want to get out as much old oil and muck as you can and replace it with as much fresh (good quality) new oil as appropriate.  By the few remarks about that engine and my very limited  experience of VW's rough sounding engines I'd put in a very good quality oil and at an average annual mileage of around 6k-miles I'd change the engine oil and filter at least one a year every year with very god quality oil if I wanted to see the car out many years later (and depending on the gearbox change that oil and the "lifetime" coolant.

 

Edited 24 September, 20241 yr by nta16
spelling

16 minutes ago, nta16 said:

A quick Google search gives a Golf and capacity as 3.6 litres but no more info than that number which, if correct, only gives you an approximation, presumably (always dangerous) you take off about 0.5l for filter so starting to fill with 2l seems a good choice.  If doing the work yourself and you're not a Billy-big-bo**ocks (large-testicles braggard) there's no need to rush the refill and it can be done in various stages adding a little at a time and checking, no need to work down to low professional standards.  I never fully top up until the next day after the car has parked overnight first and then been driven.  Depending on the car/engine I sometimes never fully top up (unless the car is going to get driven hard) and leave it at a level that it normally likes.

 

Absolute oil quantities don't matter you just want to get out as much old oil and muck as you can and replace it with as much fresh (good quality) new oil as appropriate.  By the few remarks about that engine and my very limited  experience of VW's rough sounding engines I'd put in a very good quality oil and at an average annual mileage of around 6k-miles I'd change the engine oil and filter at least one a year every year with very god quality oil if I wanted to see the car out many years later (and depending on the gearbox change that oil and the "lifetime" coolant.

 

All good advice, which I have followed less than religiously of late. Various encroaching disabilities have slowed me : I cannot easily get under a car now and deffo can't get back to the vertical without a struggle. As my mileage is pretty low and mostly local trips, ie under 15 miles urban roads, I have excused myself serious maintenance. Hence the hurried oil change before pounding Mways for 350 miles. Regretted ever since.

I have some idea of how it is as I've only recently been able to get under a car and back up again without some difficulty after a good few years of not being able (thanks partly to bloody silly VW wheel bolts instead of studs but that's only one reason I dislike my wife's VW car) but unfortunately lack of frequent/regular reasonable distance use of the car means you really need to change the oil  (and filter) more regularly not less.  The 350 motorway miles would do the car a power of good generally.

3 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I have some idea of how it is as I've only recently been able to get under a car and back up again without some difficulty after a good few years of not being able (thanks partly to bloody silly VW wheel bolts instead of studs but that's only one reason I dislike my wife's VW car) but unfortunately lack of frequent/regular reasonable distance use of the car means you really need to change the oil  (and filter) more regularly not less.  The 350 motorway miles would do the car a power of good generally.

Yes so I believe. A good hard drive to burn the **** out of the engine. But the oil was approaching 2 years old or possibly more so in my opinion a bit like me - past it. The car used regularly to do this trip uncomplainingly but I don't like tempting fate. It ran those roads in March this year so I thought...  da-di-da. The sad story is above.

Just now, somean49 said:

Yes so I believe. A good hard drive to burn the **** out of the engine. But the oil was approaching 2 years old or possibly more so in my opinion a bit like me - past it. The car used regularly to do this trip uncomplainingly but I don't like tempting fate. It ran those roads in March this year so I thought...  da-di-da. The sad story is above.

It's worth adding perhaps that I have only ever used premium oil. That may not mean much but if the manufacturers claims are only partly true the oil should do the engine more good than the other stuff I get offered.

@somean49 What is 'premium oil' ? 

& What is the other stuff offered?   Does it come from some dodgy backstreet Engine Oil producer?

 

The engine just need oil to VW spec 502 00 for fixed oil change regimes,  5w 40 FS.

or 

VW 504 00 / 507 00 is going with Variable / Flexible Oil & Filter servicing intervals. Usually 5w 30 FS III  (Long Life.)  

In my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI the engine oil is normally warmed to 90c, according to the car's oil temperature display (which is hopefully more accurate than its outside temperature display) at around 7 miles into a journey.

 

I don't even like the car but as I was able to do the engine oil and filter change this year in a short respite from the back issues, partially caused by the bloody VW wheel bolts, I used Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w30 and Mann filter, both much better quality than the wretched car deserves but it often does journeys of only 2 miles and enough things fail on it already without causing more.

 

I have no interest in getting oils with a VW  or VW Aldi Group label on the bottles and little interest in whether the oil has VW's approval as long as it meets their (ever changing) specifications.

 

 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

whether the oil has VW's approval as long as it meets their (ever changing) specifications.

I don't care if the label on the bottle says "VAG 999-99" or not, as long as that meets or exceeds the old 502.00 specification.

Whichever 50* ** spec is best, usually the current ones, 504 00 might be better than 502 00 if the oil is designed to last longer but you can take your pick which 50* ** you want. - "Recommended for ACEA C3,  API SN, SM, SL, . . .  Audi / VW Group VW 504 00 / 507 00, VW 506 00 / 506 01, VW 503 00 / 503 01, VW 502 00 / 505 01, VW 502 00 / 505 00, VW 500 00 / 501 01" - https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/millersoils/20230912-7877-EE-PERFORMANCE-C3-5w30.pdf

 

Lots of waffle none of which has any relevance to the problem the OP has.

 

@somean49 have you made any progress?

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Lots of waffle none of which has any relevance to the problem the OP has.

 

@somean49 have you made any progress?

Not much progress, J.R.  Been having dental treatment this week which is a 'nice' distraction. My mech friend has surfaced and he suggests the oil level sensor may be screwed. That has also been muted by my friendly MOT examiner. Whatever the solution to that might be sounds as if it could get expensive, depending on its accessibility.