Now the mornings are getting colder in the UK my Fabian starting issues is getting worse. 
 

basically when car is cold it won’t crank.

 

battery is fine tested and charged. 
 

Dash lights up like a Christmas tree, 

 

(no ESC, gearbox error, etc etc) 

 

So the only way to eventually get it to start is take the key out and to keep re trying. 
 

every time I do this you can hear the fuel pump kind of half priming. Eventually you’ll hear a full prime then car will start. Then after a few seconds will cut out. 
 

I’m going to dig out my reader. Have taken it to Skoda MD and they said “we can’t do anything until it’s proper broken” 

 

I’ve seen some other posts saying replacing the fuse box (next to battery) resolves this issue. 
 

Just reaching out to see if anyone else has anything similar will try and attach video. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Has the immobilizer been checked? 

 

Other than that, it may be wise (and cheaper) to check all the earth wires are free of corrosion and tight. Check the key and ignition barrel is free of dirt. Blast some WD-40 or similar inside. 

 

Does the car throw up any messages about depressing the clutch pedal or anything else when it refuses to start? 

 

What warning lights are on before and after starting the engine? 

Just to add to above, forget WD-40 GT85 is better all round but cleaning lubricating electrics with sprays is best done with battery disconnected, all battery disconnect and reconnect instructions are in the car's Owner's Manual.  Time of day clock is generally the only thing tht needs resting if you switch off all electrics and fully close windows/roof before disconnecting.  Disconnection of the battery also means you can check the battery terminal clamp are/were tight and inside (and outside) of clamp connectors and battery terminal are fully clean, also check main cables, wire, earths are all clean, secure and protected.  Ignition barrel/switch and their connections were a second thought of mine (after battery and its connections). 

 

If you haven't got the paper printed copy free VWŠKoda pdf versions are available from the following VWŠkoda site. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

You may need more than a code reader, an appropriate level VW scan tool may be required, do ensure its program for your model and year of VW model and year on the scan tool is fully up to date before using the scan tool or you can get errors with what the scan tool tells you.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

@robcouch  Welcome.

When the car has been parked a few hours the fuel pump primes when you open the drivers door.

(I assume you go in the drivers door, not the passengers, in a garage or something.)

 

Are you dead sure on the battery? 

How many miles has the car done?

Battery and how it's checked is always my first thought on electirical and/or engine starting issues.

 

Also forgot the GT85 details. - https://gt85.co.uk/

 

4 hours ago, Ootohere said:

fuel pump primes when you open the drivers door

Mk III's don't prime when you open the drivers door.

it's at ignition on with my petrol one.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

9 hours ago, alep said:

Has the immobilizer been checked? 

 

Other than that, it may be wise (and cheaper) to check all the earth wires are free of corrosion and tight. Check the key and ignition barrel is free of dirt. Blast some WD-40 or similar inside. 

 

Does the car throw up any messages about depressing the clutch pedal or anything else when it refuses to start? 

 

What warning lights are on before and after starting the engine? 

 yes, good point. I fitted a new battery and when I did that I checked the relay terminals few fuse terminals and made sure that the battery terminals were done up properly.

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

Just to add to above, forget WD-40 GT85 is better all round but cleaning lubricating electrics with sprays is best done with battery disconnected, all battery disconnect and reconnect instructions are in the car's Owner's Manual.  Time of day clock is generally the only thing tht needs resting if you switch off all electrics and fully close windows/roof before disconnecting.  Disconnection of the battery also means you can check the battery terminal clamp are/were tight and inside (and outside) of clamp connectors and battery terminal are fully clean, also check main cables, wire, earths are all clean, secure and protected.  Ignition barrel/switch and their connections were a second thought of mine (after battery and its connections). 

 

If you haven't got the paper printed copy free VWŠKoda pdf versions are available from the following VWŠkoda site. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

You may need more than a code reader, an appropriate level VW scan tool may be required, do ensure its program for your model and year of VW model and year on the scan tool is fully up to date before using the scan tool or you can get errors with what the scan tool tells you.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Yeah, I'm gonna get this with some contact Cleaner I've got in the shed. I put a new battery on not so long ago and put some terminal cleaner on it and it was all pretty decent so maybe there's some moisture in there. I'm not sure to doublecheck.

2 hours ago, AGFalco said:

Mk III's don't prime when you open the drivers door.

it's at ignition on with my petrol one.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

Yeah, agreed. Definitely primes when you turn ignition and it only kind of half primes when it's heaven electrical fit and eventually you hear it do a full prime and then the engine turns over.

Heres a video of the start - you can't hear the Fuel Pump but you can experience an early Christmas lights show. 

 

Error code on my reader says lost contact to PCM/ECM - Need a VagCom to get a proper interpretation of that though. 

 

Fabia_480p.mov

Edited 12 October, 20241 yr by robcouch

3 hours ago, robcouch said:

Heres a video of the start - you can't hear the Fuel Pump but you can experience an early Christmas lights show. 

 

Error code on my reader says lost contact to PCM/ECM - Need a VagCom to get a proper interpretation of that though. 

 

Fabia_480p.mov 8.06 MB · 2 downloads

Those files never work on my PC they just show an empty jpg symbol!

 

You don't necessarily need a VagCom /VCDS others scan tools that cover your model and year at an appropriate level can do nearly or as much but if you have access to a VagCom/VCDS then fine.  Whatever scan tool do make sure that the program for your model and year is fully up to date, those that don't know or lazy mechanics/auto-electricians do always bother and it can make a difference to results.  I've no idea if there's any pre or fully priming at whatever point but I do have something when I put the ignition on, I'm just grateful the bloody car starts and hope I don't hear to many suspension and engine noises and the computers don't decide to throw up the "amber triangle of doom" on the dash or worse, actually I'm just grateful the remote keyfob actually opens the doors, I'd sooner us the keyblade in the lock personally but then the alarm goes off (well usually but it didn't once and I can't work out why that was.

 

Let's hope you don't have to go through wire wiggle tests when it's cold.  Other makes and VW in Sweden and Australia and you'd just get it sorted under the country's procedure or warranty but of course this is the UK and you've had the nerve to have a car at about 5 years old.  Cheaper car manufacturers product get 7 years warranty even in the UK.  German "quality" t'er.

 

I hope you get this sorted, let us know how you get on, there but the grace of luck go other VW owners.

 

14 hours ago, robcouch said:

Fabia_480p.mov 8.06 MB · 3 downloads

Apologies that does play, 

 

Daft ones, clutching at straws, did you change the key battery and/or synchronise the remote/keyblade?  Is your car KESSY less?

 

Intermittent problems are even more of a PITA, sounds like you put keyblade into ignition barrel/switch, have checked its connections and wires?  Tried using the other remote/keyblade?  Always better to ask and/or do something twice than not ask and not do something or check it again.  Sometimes a second pair of eyes (ears, nose, hands, brain) with you at the time can help (and sometimes not) with something you might miss.

 

Edited 13 October, 20241 yr by nta16
typos and missing word

I think you will find that there is priming of 1.0 TSI with GPF when the drivers door is opened.

Yes the fuel pump primes when the ignition is on, but do not dismiss the pre prime until you have actually checked this. 

 

Edited 13 October, 20241 yr by Ootohere

5 minutes ago, Ootohere said:

I think you will find that there is priming of 1.0 TSI with GPF when the drivers door is opened.

Yes the fuel pump primes when the ignition is on, but do not dismiss the pre prime until you have actually checked this. 

I know what you mean my Audi A3 used to do this but this fabia doesn’t. Never has. 

 

when it starts without any issues there is no prime on door opening it’s always been on the ignition. Only difference being the duration of the prime. 

Let us know when you resolve the issue. 

Finally found a thread with same issue. 
 

Fusebox replacement! 
 

https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3995838.html

 

 

Good work on finding this but sorry about the result.  I wonder if the under warranty replacement of a parts was just easier and more profitable under warranty for the garage(s) than a simple clean to resolve, and of course prevention of it happening again, the basic all connections and wires clean, secure and protected.

 

GT85 also drives out moisture - note when I emailed the owners of GT85, used to be British but now owned by a large invasive American Corporation called WD-40 Company, they replied that GT85 hadn't been tested but WD-40 had, but I've used it on electrics and someone else with a car YT channel that I put on to GT85 has used it without issue.

 

Anyway cleaning and protecting the fuse box may be all that's required, or it may also need simple repair.  Or of course it may need more complex repair or replacement obviously I don't know.

 

Any spraying of electrics is best done with battery disconnected, which you'd have to do to remove box for repair or replacement anyway.  On disconnecting the battery I also like to drain the disconnected circuits to mini-reset as much as possible the computers as I see that as a bit of electronic cleaning too but perhaps that's just me as I feel the computers need a good booting. 😁

 

If it's the fusebox it's pretty poor show on VW's part, I wonder if there have been enough customer/garages reports of this for VW to have in-house technical sheet on it, not that VW would tell you anyway but some on here seem to have access to, or find, such stuff.

 

Good luck, keep letting us know how you get on.

 

Edited 13 October, 20241 yr by nta16