I too was totally confused (not difficult) by the rich and lean burning but it might be a language thing.

 

I have no idea about these carbs but back when automatic chokes were put on carbs  they could go faulty and be unreliable so much so that many owners converted them to the previous system of manual chokes where you pulled a cable and set it and adjusted it for starting the engine and as the engine warmed until you could set the choke to an off position.  I am probably one of very few if any here that was still using a manual choke "daily" until a couple of years ago.

 

I used to run, another car, with a carb with the auto-choke disconnected all the time summer and winter but it was a big American carb so sucked a lot of fuel anyway.

 

Can you eliminate the automatic choke by getting the car started and warmed either without the use of the automatic choke or be able to disconnect it once the engine s running?  I appreciate this might not be possible where you are if your car is not inside and can be warmed by other heat.

 

With things like this where a lot of other additional work has been carried out I find it best to recheck everything that has been done and recheck all settings made, I know this seems likely to be a carb fuelling issue but over decades on old car forums and bulletin boards I have seen that small errors or issues in set up or incorrect assumptions made can hinder progress with the present issue.

 

As you have removed the head do the valve clearances need checking/adjusting (I cannot remember on this engine).  The order for ignition set up was/is - (valves), CB points / spark plugs, timing, carb mixture - in that order and if you adjust any item in that chain then you also check and adjust the items that follow it in the chain.

 

If you have put new parts on do not assume that those new parts cannot be faulty, lots of poorly made parts now.  Also do not assume any part that is fitted and working is fitted correctly and/or fully working correctly.  Copying how something was fitted to the car is not always the best thing to do referring to a period workshop manual is often a very good starting point at least.  Old car Owner's Manuals often gave lots of servicing and maintenance information (unlike the ones now).

 

For older cars than yours in the UK CB points (unless yours is electronic), condensers, particularly rotor arm can be of p1ss-poor quality and cause all sorts of unexpected issues.  So too can cheap (often Chinese made) HT leads, spark plugs and coils.  Thinking of which how is your coil?

 

How is your fuel pump (electric(?) I guess) for quantity and pressure when engine is cold and warmed?

 

I would make a long list of all that is needed to get and keep the engine running and check and adjust all as required and tick them on the list without crossing off the list as you made need to repeat checks.

 

I have no idea in your country but in the UK E5 and E10 fuel can cause issues if the fuel is very old in the tank and pipes, can cause icing too if I remember correctly.

 

You also mentioned something about white bits on the oil cap(?) a photo of that might help too.

 

In the photos I saw a fuel filter but lost track of the fuel line, other than a variety of hose clips and an electric wire disconnect (for a purpose possibly) my very tired eyes can see little nothing wrong but I don't know the model and am not a mechanic or expert in anything.  (I noticed the battery figures of course.)  All looks very clean externally at least.

 

Edited 29 January, 20251 yr by nta16
typos

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

I too was totally confused (not difficult) by the rich and lean burning but it might be a language thing.

I dont know if it is running rich anymore, i dont see why it shouldnt. As for running lean i cant confirm, although it does seem like it, bc when the choke flap is closed, it chokes the egnine of air and that fixes the problem. (But it could also pull in fuel differently).

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

I have no idea about these carbs but back when automatic chokes were put on carbs  they could go faulty and be unreliable so much so that matter owners convert them to the previous system of manual chokes where you pulled a cable and set it and adjusted it for starting the engine and as the engine warmed until you could set the choke to an off position.  I am probably one of very few if any here that was still using a manual choke "daily" until a couple of years ago.

I think that the choke works well, although the system is complex, it does what its supposed to. I can close the chocke flap (square one on top of the carb) by just holding it down with my fingers, which makes the idle good. I think it pulls fuel differently then, bc the car wont shut off when the idle cutoff valve wire is pulled.

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

I used to run a carb with the auto-choke disconnected all the time summer and winter but it was a big American carb so sucked a lot of fuel anyway.

 

Can you eliminate the automatic choke by getting the car started and warmed either without the use of the automatic choke or be able to disconnect it once the engine s running?  I appreciate this might not be possible where you are if your car is not inside and can be warmed by other heat.

I could try to hold it open but the choke "turns off" anyways whem the engine is warm.

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

With things like this where a lot of other additional work has been carried out I find it best to recheck everything that has been done and recheck all settings made, I know this seems likely to be a carb fuelling issue but over decades on old car forums and bulletin boards that small errors or issues in set up or incorrect assumptions made can hinder progress with the present issue.

 

As you have removed the head do the valve clearances need checking/adjusting (I cannot remember on this engine).  The order for ignition set up was/is - (valves), CB points / spark plugs, timing, carb mixture - in that order and if you adjust any item in that chain then you also check and adjust the items that follow it in the chain.

I havent yet checked the valve clearences bc i dont have the tool, but i could figure smth out on the weekend. 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

If you have put new parts on do not assume that those new parts cannot be faulty, lots of poorly made parts now.  Also do not assume any part that is fitted and working is fitted correctly and/or fully working correctly.  Copying how something was fitted to the car is not always the best thing to do referring to a period workshop manual is often a very good starting point at least.  Old car Owner's Manuals often gave lots of servicing and maintenance information (unlike the ones now).

I use the Haynes manual as a guide with the bigger jobs and torque settings but all the parts should be good., exept for the leads as they were made by a chinese company. 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

For older cars than yours in the UK CB points (unless yours is electronic), condensers, particularly rotor arm can be of **** poor quality and cause all sorts of unexpected issues.  So too can cheap (often Chinese made) HT leads, spark plugs and coils.  Thinking of which how is your coil?

I could check the coil on the weekend, any suggestions how?

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

Now is your fuel pump, electric(?) I guess for quantity and pressure when engine is cold and warmed?

 

I would make a long list of all that is needed to get and keep the engine running and check and adjust all as required and tick them on the list without crossing off the list as you made need to repeat checks.

 

I have no idea in your country but in the UK E5 and E10 fuel can cause issues if the fuel is very old in the tank and pipes, can cause icing too if I remember correctly.

When purchasing the car it had almost an empty tank so fuel is new. I only put in 98, dont know if its E5 or E10, but should be one of them.

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

You also mentioned something about white bits on the oil cap(?) a photo of that might help too.

That was before changing the headgasket, havent checked it now but its a mixture of oil and coolant. 

 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

In the photos I saw a fuel filter but lost track of the fuel line, other than a variety of hose clips and an electric wire disconnect (for a purpose possibly) my very tired eyes can see little wrong but I don't know the model and am not a mechanic or expert in anything.  (I noticed the battery figures of course.)  All looks very clean externally at least.

 

The wire got disconnected accidentally when removing the filter but when testing, it was on.

10 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

Thank you for clarifying, but both of the holes were clean.

Did you remove it (the idle emulsion tube) to check the jet at the bottom as well as the air jet at the top?

37 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Did you remove it (the idle emulsion tube) to check the jet at the bottom as well as the air jet at the top?

Yes, after unscrewing, i pulled it out and checked the tiny holes (there were 2), both were clean. There also seems to be a really small hole at the bottom, but i dont know if it leads anywhere. I dont know where the two holes lead to on the carb, but I didnt check them bc they are deeper inside and hard to access it seems.

2 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

I dont know if it is running rich anymore, i dont see why it shouldnt. As for running lean i cant confirm, although it does seem like it,

Do you know anyone with a gas analyse or vacuum gauge, but bear in mind you set the fuel mixture at the end of that ignition chain so need to check (recheck, double check, treble check) all the other items in that before using a gas analyse or vacuum gauge.   

 

 

2 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

the car wont shut off when the idle cutoff valve wire is pulled

Is this some sort of anti-run-on valve? 

 

 

2 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

I havent yet checked the valve clearences bc i dont have the tool, but i could figure smth out on the weekend. 

If you did not set or check them, or even if you did, after fitting the new head gasket it should be checked as first item in that chain of ignition checks.

 

 

2 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

I use the Haynes manual

Haynes manuals are Ok-ish but like all information and databases they do contain errors and omission so do check and cross reference any information given in it.  I had two copies of Haynes for my last car as it was produced and many changes over 21 years of production and neither copy of Haynes covered my year of model completely and had errors and omission in the information.   Haynes was more for bigger job repairs service and maintenance work was best covered by the Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual).  If you do not already have a copy then ask the other posters about availability of the Owner's Manual for your car as it will tell you so much about your car and most of it not in a Haynes.  You may also be able to get the factory workshop manual for your car but I don't know, again ask the others.  Also bear in mind all information even from manufacturers can have errors and omissions too.  The rear drum brake set up drawing was incorrect in the factory workshop manual, a well known error, but only if you knew.

 

 

2 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

I could check the coil on the weekend, any suggestions how?

You could check the spark at the king lead (HT lead from coil, perhaps in your Haynes it has a troubleshooting flow diagram or table at the end of the chapter with ways to check.  Bear in mind the coil can be effected by heat or it warming up too much, generally they are very reliable and last decades, unless perhaps it is quite new, is it a good make or an unknown brand.  Breezy_Pete and others will know more and better than me about things like this.

 

Good HT lead sets are not expensive but if the Chinese set is working well stick with them for now but any signs or suspicions they are not then I would replace them as they can be difficult to tell if they are reliable and always fully working, just putting a meter on them to test them can give a false positive, that is they seem OK on the meter at that point in time but in real life work in the engine bay they may not.  You do not need to buy the sexy silly high priced HT leads just good quality ones again they should last very many years trouble-free so a good investment and reassurance.

 

 

2 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

When purchasing the car it had almost an empty tank so fuel is new. I only put in 98, dont know if its E5 or E10, but should be one of them.

In the UK 98 (RON) would be E5 both can cause issues for old fuel systems that have not been refreshed and if the car sits around for weeks and months.  You can get additives for cars up to 2011 to help counter potential issues, generally it has to be stored and administered correctly, and the one I had used within 2 years of date stamp which is easy enough if you actually use the car.  If the fuel pump has a filter you could perhaps check that.  As I put I think I could see a fuel filter at the bottom of the engine bay but presumably tat is after the fuel pump.

 

 

2 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

That was before changing the headgasket, havent checked it now but its a mixture of oil and coolant. 

It can also be water from the car sitting around a lot and only being used for short journeys, hopefully gone now not to return but it is a very simple and quick check to make.  Also I think those caps have a rubber seal that you want to check is in good condition.  Many original parts were better quality (not all by any means) so last a very long time with trouble-free use.

 

This bring me on to engine oil (and gearbox oil) since the car was built oils have improved so just because the car is old does not mean you need to use an old oil or cheap low quality oil, more like the reverse, because the car is old it needs the greater margins of protection and great and longer lasting protection of better quality modern oils in case things go wrong as they can when old cars are actually used after years of little or no real use.  Lots of old cars that look good do not run well whereas a scruffy looking old car can be a very good runner.

 

Something we have not seen is the engine air filter, it is important that the air filter and air filter box are reasonably clean as the engine is basically a large air pump.  Sometimes a filter looks clean until you compare it against a new filter.  These old engines tend to love regular and timely engine oil and oil filter and engine air filter changes.  This is not a service for even just the engine let alone the car.

 

Of course the engine is not the most important thing on the car that is the braking system.   The order is brakes, steering suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, blower, etc.), windows and mirrors and reflective number plates (see and be seen) and towards the end of importance engine and transmission.

 

As the car is new to you I suggest you carry out a full 60,000 km / 120,000 km / 180,000 km service on the whole car as soon as possible but staggered over time with driving the car in-between to learn about the car and how to drive it and pick up on any issues and learn what you can get used to and live with.  The staggered service work will also pick up issues and potential issues and prevent them.  As the improvements from full and proper whole car servicing are incremental you may not notice them but anyone who has only driven the car before all the work and after all the work will probably notice a good difference if you have done all the servicing and maintenance and repairs and done them well.  There are not too many reasons why potentially the car could not run better now than when it was only a few years old with the improvements in the intervening years.

 

Good luck.

 

2 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

I dont know where the two holes lead to on the carb, but I didnt check them bc they are deeper inside and hard to access it seems.

If you wanted to know about them I could put up a video of how an old boy that used to deal with old Bugatties leans about various carbs workings but if the holes are clear and clean that can wait for now, unless you want to see it as a break from your car and future information.

 

5 hours ago, RalfRannet said:

That was before changing the headgasket, havent checked it now but its a mixture of oil and coolant. 

Well, that is a pretty definite indication that the car has not been properly warmed up. In turn that makes me think that the engine has never been hot enough to adjust the mixture properly.

@Paws4Thot just to let you know that was before the head gasket change, I just asked to see to confirm what is was and get some idea of more recent past history of the car.

 

@RalfRannet another thought, related to after this is resolved.  Have you owned or test driven many similar Felicia that were in sound mechanical and electrical condition with reasonably good condition and working brakes and suspension and engine and gearbox to know how well your Felica could or should be?

 

My experience is that many new (or returning to) "classic" old cars have or have been given the idea that they are all slow, don't handle well and have poor brakes when this is only the case when the car has not been kept or maintained well.  Yes the old cars may not brake and handle the same as a new modern car but you just adjust your driving to the vehicle but not accept low standards for it.  Old tyres, often with plenty of tread wear left re often hard from age and lack of use so despite having lots of tread left the tyres do not perform well with braking, road holding, handling noise and comfort.  Same for brakes often age and lack of use.  Brake fluid (like coolant and gear oil) is often forgot about or not bothered with because of the age of the car.  I would expect you have all new fresh coolant in as you changed your head gasket?

 

If a car cannot be driven it is usually a lot safer than one that can be driven but has old tired hard tyres and brakes.

 

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

Do you know anyone with a gas analyse or vacuum gauge, but bear in mind you set the fuel mixture at the end of that ignition chain so need to check (recheck, double check, treble check) all the other items in that before using a gas analyse or vacuum gauge.   

Not specifically. Wouldn't a regular tyre pump work?

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

Is this some sort of anti-run-on valve? 

Yes, it blocks the fuel once it doesn't have power.

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

If you did not set or check them, or even if you did, after fitting the new head gasket it should be checked as first item in that chain of ignition checks.

I think the problem lies within the carb bc it isn't a problem when the choke flap is closed. 

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

Haynes manuals are Ok-ish but like all information and databases they do contain errors and omission so do check and cross reference any information given in it.  I had two copies of Haynes for my last car as it was produced and many changes over 21 years of production and neither copy of Haynes covered my year of model completely and had errors and omission in the information.   Haynes was more for bigger job repairs service and maintenance work was best covered by the Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual).  If you do not already have a copy then ask the other posters about availability of the Owner's Manual for your car as it will tell you so much about your car and most of it not in a Haynes.  You may also be able to get the factory workshop manual for your car but I don't know, again ask the others.  Also bear in mind all information even from manufacturers can have errors and omissions too.  The rear drum brake set up drawing was incorrect in the factory workshop manual, a well known error, but only if you knew.

 

I don't have the original manual, but so far, I've only really needed torque settings. 

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

In the UK 98 (RON) would be E5 both can cause issues for old fuel systems that have not been refreshed and if the car sits around for weeks and months.  You can get additives for cars up to 2011 to help counter potential issues, generally it has to be stored and administered correctly, and the one I had used within 2 years of date stamp which is easy enough if you actually use the car.  If the fuel pump has a filter you could perhaps check that.  As I put I think I could see a fuel filter at the bottom of the engine bay but presumably tat is after the fuel pump.

The fuel filter is on the right, see-through case (it's new).

 

 

I do take care of the car. I have put in new oil, coolant, and air filter. I do know the importance of maintenance, and I want to keep the car in good condition. Will change the gearbox oil soon as well. The car itself drives really well. I haven't tested other models, but mine is very good. The brakes feel good, and the gear changes are nice. 

35 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

Not specifically. Wouldn't a regular tyre pump work?

I was think more of something like the follow, which is just the first example on the page so just general example. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KfBklu-qwQ

 

 

38 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

I think the problem lies within the carb bc it isn't a problem when the choke flap is closed.

Even so if something in the chain is not set correctly then adjusting the mixture will be setting it to the wrong adjustment for correct overall set up, it is up to you what you do but my experience is, and I have done it myself, when someone thinks "it won't be that so I won't check" or "I have already checked so no need to check again" Sod's Law things should have been checked or rechecked.  Even very experienced professional people can make this mistake.

 

46 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

I don't have the original manual, but so far, I've only really needed torque settings.

Some on here may be able to point you to where you might find some sort of copy of the factory workshop manual and Owner's Manual.  So do you already know about this car and its settings for say the CB points and spark plugs the engine timing and so on.  You have to take a bit of care where you get your information from particularly with the internet and parts suppliers and others databases.  On here are owners that have had the Felicia and used it for decades so they (not me) have real world experience and knowledge of what works best with the car in today's world.  But as I put generally as a starting point at least following the original Owner's Manual (and factory WSM - workshop manual) is a good place to start, so much has changed for a 25 year old car in 25 years.

 

56 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

The fuel filter is on the right, see-through case (it's new).

Yes I saw that, that is the fuel filter after the fuel pump presumably, I wondered as I do not know if the fuel pump has a built-in filter or a standard factory filter between tank and pump, others would know I do not.

 

 

59 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

I do take care of the car. I have put in new oil, coolant, and air filter. I do know the importance of maintenance, and I want to keep the car in good condition. Will change the gearbox oil soon as well. The car itself drives really well. I haven't tested other models, but mine is very good. The brakes feel good, and the gear changes are nice. 

Good.  Fair enough.  I have put most of what I know so will leave you in the capable hands of the other posters here and others yet to post.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get along and the outcome.

 

@nta16 Thank you for all the info. I suppose I should check the gaps and timing and so on, I just need the tools now (and the owners/workshop manual if anyone has a link or smth).  Will tell you when I get the issue sorted. 

Edited 29 January, 20251 yr by RalfRannet

Okay, i corrected the valve clearences and readjusted the carb. It idles well now and also passed emissions with 0.2.. % CO. The big problem now is the carb icing.

Edited 7 February, 20251 yr by RalfRannet

On 28/01/2025 at 21:53, Paws4Thot said:

Reference the carburettor icing, this can occur any time you get very high relative humidity, and is more likely if you have the intake set to "Summer" and/or missing/broken "Winter" ducting.

 

3 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

Okay, i corrected the valve clearences and readjusted the carb. It idles well now and also passed emissions with 0.2.. % CO. The big problem now is the carb icing.

See the above. My father has had carb icing at +10C.

4 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

 

See the above. My father has had carb icing at +10C.

The air intake has a flap inside it which opens at a certain degree, even if that pipe is blocked off with other things and the car pulls warm air from on top of the exhaust manifold, it still freezes. It happens when temp. is below 3°C.

In a mk2 Golf I used to own, there was a thermostatic vacuum valve in the hose that went to the diaphragm which moved the flap.

That contained a bimetallic strip which was supposed to respond to the intake temperature to create a closed loop system. 

The little thermostat valve needed cleaning out before mine worked correctly.  The 'teeny tiny hole' was blocked, so not allowing sampling of the passing air, or something, I seem to remember.  (This was at least 20 years ago, so the memory is vague).

Not sure if Felicia has same thing? 

13 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

i corrected the valve clearences and readjusted the carb

Just to confirm, after correcting the valve clearances and before adjusting the carb did you check, adjust or replace, as required, the distributor contact breaker points, the spark plugs and the engine timing?

 

 

9 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

it still freezes

You can get this with carbs.  Modern petrol with ethanol does not make things better, in UK E10 is up to 0% ethanol and higher octane petrol, which usually also has higher cleaning additive package, is up to 5% many UK old car owners choose to run on the more expensive at the pump E5 petrol.  As I put before you can get fuel additives which protect against the ethanol corrasion with E5 and E10 petrol.

 

You would need to check that the air intake flap is operating correctly and that the ducting from the exhaust manifold also operates correctly.  D.FYLAKTOS done lots of posts on the air box and intake flap control which he could advise you on if required.

 

32 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

In a mk2 Golf I used to own, there was a thermostatic vacuum valve in the hose that went to the diaphragm which moved the flap.

The diaphgram (inside the accelerator pump) should be controlled by pressing the accelerator and doesnt have any hoses going to it. I dont think felicias have it. The airbox doesnt seem to have sensors anywhere. I belive there is only 1 temp. sensor in the thermostat and another on the radiator.

Edited 7 February, 20251 yr by RalfRannet

Taken from a D.FYLAKTOS post.

 

 

 

Edited 7 February, 20251 yr by nta16
ETA: third photo

4 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Taken from a D.FYLAKTOS post.

 

 

My car has a round airfiler. The pipe from the airbox splits into 2. The flap is inside the first pipe and cant be accessed like that. The second pipe just goes to the heat shield, where its

connected to a hole that gets warm air from around the exhaust manofold. When blocking the first pipe, the whole air intake system got warm to the touch and the car still died.

Edited 7 February, 20251 yr by RalfRannet

15 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

My car has a round airfiler. The pipe from the airbox splits into 2. The flap is inside the first pipe and cant be accessed like that. The second pipe just goes to the heat shield, where its

connected to a hole that gets warm air from around the exhaust manofold. When blocking the first pipe, the whole air intake system got warm to the touch and the car still died.

Ah OK, completely different arrangement with a wax thermostat acting directly on the flap? Or manual moving of the flap according to season?

 

Maybe try to find a way to heat the carb body also.

 

 

 

 

Edited 7 February, 20251 yr by Breezy_Pete

16 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

The diaphgram (inside the accelerator pump) should be controlled by pressing the accelerator and doesnt have any hoses going to it. I dont think felicias have it. The airbox doesnt seem to have sensors anywhere. I belive there is only 1 temp. sensor in the thermostat and another on the radiator.

The thing I was trying to describe is nothing to do with the carburettor itself, certainly nothing to do with the accelerator pump.

 

10 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Ah OK, completely different arrangement with a wax thermostat acting directly on the flap? Or manual moving of the flap according to season?

 

Maybe try to find a way to heat the carb body also.

 

 

 

 

The flap can't be controlled manually. It should be directly on the flap I think, it's inside the pipe and isn't connected to anything outside. And the heat got discontinued in 2013 and I haven't found a place that sells it.

 

Edited 7 February, 20251 yr by RalfRannet

7 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The thing I was trying to describe is nothing to do with the carburettor itself, certainly nothing to do with the accelerator pump.

 

I see, I was a bit confused as well. The airbox doesn't have any hoses going to it anywhere except one from the rocker cover, near the oil fill port.

9 minutes ago, RalfRannet said:

When blocking the first pipe, the whole air intake system got warm to the touch and the car still died.

Are you sure the warm air is getting to the carb, or that icing is the problem.  Even if the air is warmed there can be too much humidity.  Are you starting the car in a garage with mats or old carpeting on the floor or lots of cloths, clothing, anything that holds a lot of damp.

 

As an experiment you could try heating the petrol in the tank and perhaps temporarily insulate the fuel line so it arrives at the carb above air temperature as the fuel delivery of the carbs cools the petrol, obvious take care how you heat a petrol tank.  As a second stage of the experiment you could then move on to insulating or warming the carb again obvious take care with something that  is putting petrol out.  Or you could pre-heat items before trying to start the car.

 

Once the car is started the heat build up from the engine should also help with warming the carb but icing can still happen.

 

More details are required, what is happening when, details from starting the car, what situation the car is in, what happens after start, how long after start, and so on.

 

42 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Just to confirm, after correcting the valve clearances and before adjusting the carb did you check, adjust or replace, as required, the distributor contact breaker points, the spark plugs and the engine timing?

 

And yes I saw you put "It idles well now and also passed emissions with 0.2.. % CO" which shows that passing a test does not mean the car goes as well as it could or should, it is the same when somebody says that the car passed an annual MoT test.