@zer081 I was able to take that battery reading today. After about 16-17 hours of the car being parked and locked up I took a multimeter reading with bonnet open obviously but the rest of the car locked, from positive battery tag and negative tag on engine, to first decimal place, 12.8v.

I then took another reading in same way after putting the headlights and blower on for 10 seconds very slight drop in hundredths but again taken at first decimal place 12.8v.

The car is not a VW product, it does not have start/stop but plenty of other features for a 2016 car, I could see battery details as it also has a lot of (covered) gubbins on top of the battery obscuring a lot of the top of the battery including the positive battery terminal post.

I hope this gives you a reasonable comparison to your situation.

Your neighbour must be so relieved to have gained 0.1 volt after his battery was charged for 7 hours.

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

Your neighbour must be so relieved to have gained 0.1 volt after his battery was charged for 7 hours.

Your ****y outlook on me and others must also blur your vision as you seem incapable of fully reading my posts which you stalk out and it seems given your understanding it other matter that you wilfully misunderstand possibly couple with your arrogance and in this matter ignorance. These are not insults but facts from your posts here and in other threads where you rush over to snipe about my posts.

As I've put several times before whatever your problems are I cannot help you with them so don't keep taking it out on me.

And as I've put several times before I will no longer go out of my way to explain things to you or put up with - go and do your research and learn a bit more on this subject.

I didn't ridicule you in another current thread when you were indirectly sniping at me for putting that only 0.5 mile of driving was require to charge a battery that was so flat the car needed a jump-starter to fire up the engine when no information was given about the battery age and condition only that the vehicle got just a few short journeys in 3 months. But you believe what you want, because you want to.

There wasn't a 1.0v gain for 7 hours charging - but you believe what you want, because you want to.

26 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Your ****y outlook on me and others must also blur your vision as you seem incapable of fully reading my posts which you stalk out and it seems given your understanding it other matter that you wilfully misunderstand possibly couple with your arrogance and in this matter ignorance. These are not insults but facts from your posts here and in other threads where you rush over to snipe about my posts.

As I've put several times before whatever your problems are I cannot help you with them so don't keep taking it out on me.

And as I've put several times before I will no longer go out of my way to explain things to you or put up with - go and do your research and learn a bit more on this subject.

I didn't ridicule you in another current thread when you were indirectly sniping at me for putting that only 0.5 mile of driving was require to charge a battery that was so flat the car needed a jump-starter to fire up the engine when no information was given about the battery age and condition only that the vehicle got just a few short journeys in 3 months. But you believe what you want, because you want to.

There wasn't a 1.0v gain for 7 hours charging - but you believe what you want, because you want to.

It makes me feel a bit better now knowing I'm not the only one who's posts he snipes with his sh**"y opinions and ill informed nonsense 👍

Edited 22 March, 20251 yr by Lee01

1 hour ago, Lee01 said:

It makes me feel a bit better now knowing I'm not the only one who's posts he snipes with his sh**"y opinions and ill informed nonsense 👍

I've seen him be particularly ****y to others even new members. I certainly don't feel better learning he snipes at you (and others?). I thought he was my personal stalking troll and took exception to me as he may feel he overshared his past with me in the early days of me being a member and had regret at this, perhaps embarrassed I would bring up what was mentioned but I never have and wouldn't. I have seen him be all charm at times and give good information and advice that he clearly has in many matters but he too often reverts to the cowardly anonymous bully afforded by the internet.

I'm totally bored with it but will not allow him to bully me even if I can't stop him bullying others.

If he follows pattern he will not be back for a while (hopefully) so it can end for the time being (hopefully).

Edited 22 March, 20251 yr by nta16
typos

On 21/03/2025 at 16:34, nta16 said:

I'm not responsible for your past relationships or you being in France

That is devastating news, I was counting on you to explain where I went wrong, I feel really let down and don't know who I can turn to now. 😜

On 22/03/2025 at 19:19, nta16 said:

There wasn't a 1.0v gain for 7 hours charging - but you believe what you want, because you want to.

0.1 volt not 1.0 volt.

I believe what you write:

"I'm just charging my neighbour's car 12v as I borrowed the car and the car gets very little use and then on short journeys only. The 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer showed 12.7v just after a short journey"

On 22/03/2025 at 14:52, nta16 said:

I was able to take that battery reading today. After about 16-17 hours of the car being parked and locked up I took a multimeter reading with bonnet open obviously but the rest of the car locked, from positive battery tag and negative tag on engine, to first decimal place, 12.8v.

12.8v minus 12.7v = 0.1 volt increase.

23 hours ago, nta16 said:

he may feel he overshared his past with me in the early days of me being a member and had regret at this, perhaps embarrassed I would bring up what was mentioned but I never have and wouldn't.

Your imagination is running riot again, the only interaction I have with you is occasionally correcting the worst and often repeated examples of nonsense.

If you think you have some embarrassing information on me that I have shared with you then I encourage you to please go ahead and post it.

On 22/03/2025 at 18:19, nta16 said:

There wasn't a 1.0v gain for 7 hours charging

Correction for typo - should have been - there wasn't a 0.1v gain for 7 hours charging.

I experienced a similar issue with the Start/Stop function in another vehicle. After replacing the battery, the Start/Stop feature began working correctly. Manuals indicate that Start/Stop functionality depends on several factors, including battery condition.

2 hours ago, Roma_pop said:

After replacing the battery, the Start/Stop feature began working correctly.

Sometimes replacing the battery is necessary, obviously I'm not referring to your case as I have no details, but many times this replacement is premature as the batteries may well have taken and held a (full) recharge and given longer good reliable service life. More owner/drivers are learning and relearning that some of their vehicles may occasionally, or more regularly, need the use of battery chargers and maintainers with the use or lack of use of their modern vehicles.

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Sometimes replacing the battery is necessary, obviously I'm not referring to your case as I have no details, but many times this replacement is premature as the batteries may well have taken and held a (full) recharge and given longer good reliable service life. More owner/drivers are learning and relearning that some of their vehicles may occasionally, or more regularly, need the use of battery chargers and maintainers with the use or lack of use of their modern vehicles.

Believe me, the battery was regularly maintained (fully charged twice a year) and it worked well and reliably. However, it was 7 years old, and after replacing it, I noticed that the start/stop function began working again.

16 minutes ago, Roma_pop said:

Believe me, the battery was regularly maintained (fully charged twice a year) and it worked well and reliably. However, it was 7 years old, and after replacing it, I noticed that the start/stop function began working again.

Well done 7 years is good and compared to some with newer models changing batteries at 4 (or even less) and 5 years and as can be seen on many threads and posts over the models on Briskoda members experiencing all sorts of unexpected warnings, warning lights, unseen error codes and issues even though the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts "so it can't be the battery" in too lower state of charge.

VWŠkoda Owner's Manuals for the cars had to change the battery at 5 years and later IIRC 4 years which for many would be far too premature even for many of those with more use, abuse and neglect but VWŠkoda like other car manufacturers make good profit out of car parts and Dealerships and garages from the labour and services to replace those parts including 12v batteries. I've seen on here it put that Dealerships are now even offering a service to recharge the battery (£40) which may be helpful to some but a perfectly good charger maintainer can be bought for £15-£30 and used for many years.

Preventative recharges (and maintenance charging for little used vehicles) are best to fully prolong the reliable useful life of the battery - but some may prefer to when required just replace the expensive battery and pay for the 'coding', each to their own.

Morning All,

It's been a while since I posted, so I thought I would update on the latest state of play with the stop/start issues.

After a few weeks of waiting, the car finally went back in last week to have a few things sorted (which to be fair, were sorted out no problems), however, once again, they said they could not find any fault with the battery or stop/start as no errors were being logged.

They apparently put it on charge whilst it was in as well (not sure how long they had it on charge, as due to a shortage of staff, they had the car for going on 1 week), upon collection, the stop/start seemed to work perfectly for a few days, until last Friday.

On the way home from work, I ended up in stop/start traffic for about 20 mins and after 7/8 interventions of stop/start the normal "power consumption high" message returned and stop/start did not kick in again for the rest of the journey home.

Saturday, I headed down Altrincham way (100mile round trip, 95% motorway) and the same "power consumption high" message persisted all through the journey and stop/start never kicked in.

Sunday/Monday this week stop/start was intermittently working along side regular "power consumption high" messages, so I stopped off at the local garage, who have always done service/mot on my previous cars for them to do a proper battery test.

Attached are the results of the check and as far as I can tell from reading them, what he said and what Dr. Google says (although I take what he says with a pinch of salt generally), although the battery states "good", it is borderline and 1 or 2% lower and the reading would be a flat out Low.

This test was performed with a "professional" external battery tester with the battery disconnected from the car after a period of 20-30 minutes parked up.

I also managed to get a pic of the full battery label when the battery was disconnected as well should that be more helpful that the last image I posted.

All indications are that the battery is the original one.

Hopefully with this evidence I may be able to go back to the dealership and force them into changing the battery under the 12 month warranty the car came with (fingers crossed!)

I can't remember the details of your 2019 Kamiq (engine size, fuel, type, trim level) and I can't remember if we've covered battery 'coding' before so just things I notice from your photos and thoughts.

Health report has "Battery in good status", state of charge 75%, state of health 75%, I note your comment but I'm thinking what ther Dealership might say.

The battery label is a different matter, I'm not sure that battery is a factory fit original (but I could be wrong, often am many times a day) as it's an EFB+ (EFB plus) I'm not sure VW use(d) those, also it's 49Ah which seems low to me. I wonder if your car has been 'coded' to an EFB+ and how much difference it would make if it was 'coded' to just EFB.

Did your garage do a scan (health) report or look at the battery 'coding' to see what details have been entered or present for the battery, and keep or give you a copy?

Just ass an example below is from when a Briskoda member used his OBDeleven scan tool to 'code' the new (AGM) battery I fitted to my wife's 2015 Fabia.

The battery type is important (VW call AGM "Fleece" not AGM, of course they do).

Also important is to change the "serial number" so the computers know it's a new changed battery. As you will note at the factory they only put in ten ones (1111111111) that's how important they considered that information.

Getting the Ah figure correct is also a good idea.

The battery make doesn't really matter , notice I didn't even bother to keep to the VW three letter code.

If you give Breezy-Pete your VIN he could possibly look up your car's original details as he has kindly done for others and perhaps see what battery was fitted at factory.

Thanks for the reply, I will try and add a bit more info based on what you have said (although I am far from a car expert and a bit confused by some of the points you mentioned here).

Car Details as follows: -

Year - 2019

Model - Kamiq

Trim - SE L

Engine size - 999cc

Fuel - Petrol

The guy at the garage seemed to think that it was probably the original battery from what he could tell, but I guess you can never 100% be sure from a visual look.

If I am understanding your question correctly, when they did the scan, they looked at the values on the battery label and entered those as the parameters before the test started, rather than looking at what had been coded for the battery.

I will send Pete a message to see if he would be able to assist and will post back if he is kind enough to assist.

I am wondering if at this stage, with all the faffing round it it's just worth cutting my losses now with the dealership and replace the battery myself as the percentages here seem to imply its closer to being a "bad" battery than a good battery now.

I could not find the option to edit the above post, but Pete has confirmed that the battery appears to be the original battery.

4 hours ago, zer081 said:

could not find the option to edit the above post

Three dots at top right of your post, click on that for Edit option on the drop down menu from three dots.

4 hours ago, zer081 said:

but Pete has confirmed that the battery appears to be the original battery

In that case I'm surprised and wrong again yet again today as I've not noticed anyone say EFB+ other than as a replacement and 1S0 915 105 B number (that only VW seems to have really used) brings up various batteries.

I think you could see if the battery 'coding' is correct for charging but if the battery is factory original it should be unless someone has messed it up - or cut your losses and save time and hassle if not money and have a new battery fitted, at least as good as VW use and of course make sure it is 'coded' correctly for peace of mind.

I personally always fully charge, to 100%, a new battery before I fit it to the car, if the battery arrives in a good state of charge this shouldn't take too long, a battery might turn up at 12.4v and you could fit it to the car and forget it but I prefer to fit the battery at 100% (possibly 12.7v / 12.8v / 12.9v and know the battery condition when I fitted it was full. The car's computers will reduce it to the 70% / 75% / 80% but it is good to have the battery charged to 100% occasional.

Just as one example only, RAC (who I'd never buy a battery from) for "SEL 1.0 115(hp) Triptronic Automatic" Varta 027 N60 Start-Stop EFB Car Battery 12V 60Ah (640 CCA EN) - £157.29 - Home Delivery.

You would have to confirm this is correct and will fit - Varta datasheet. - https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/Varta%20N60%20Blue%20Dynamic%20EFB%20560%20500%20064%20Data%20Sheet.pdf

Tayna "N60 D53 Varta Blue Dynamic EFB Start-Stop Car Battery 12V 60Ah (560500064) (027 EFB)" for delivery but not fitting or 'coding' £118.12 (£100.13 + £7.99 P&P).

If you want to you could add 1.0 petrol, SE L (and gearbox type and number of gears) to your profile to show for those that use the drop down 'Author's stats' (down arrow next to three dots)

HTH.

The resting voltage should be at least 12.6 volts. So the battery is starting to struggle.

There are several things to consider.

The first, as mentioned, is proper adaptation of the battery.

The second is proper charging while in the car. The charging voltage should be checked.

The third is excessive power drain on the battery. This can be from to many accessories in use to a tiny little leak to ground.

The only real way to test your battery Is to LOAD TEST it. Take it to a battery shop and get them to do it . A float test really doesnt indicate much where as stick a load across it and see what it dips to. If it goes down much below 9 its stuffed as that isnt enough to start the car . My Passat floated ok but stuck the load on it and it just died to about 8.5. Put a new one in and recoded it and no more troubles Was only 4 1/2 years old but didnt get used much

Edited 12 June, 202512 Jun by Exkiwi

@Exkiwi things are different in England at least, if not UK, to Australia, New Zealand and Tasmania (as well as Europe and USA). Generally if you wanted to do a load test it would be a DIY one as very few old school battery load testers are about and I doubt they're used commercially, it's modern computer battery tester electronics now. (Of course now someone will say about some old village garage in the middle of nowhere that has an "uld skool" one that can be used if Fred is working there that day. 😄)

A chap from Tasmania used to say to go to a "shop" to get this and that done, and borrow tools! and I would explain that I live in Northamptonshire a county of motorsports engineering yet I'd have to ask an older mate who he knows that might know somewhere doing the stuff the chap from Tas would just nip to a "shop" for.

Time and patience will also tell how much the battery holds and performs but many car owners have very little stock or out of stock of one, the other, or both - and no access to a load tester or knowledge or inclination to do a DIY test. This is a general (VWŠkoda) car owner's site and whilst there are some specialists members (not me) the majority aren't so they only want to go so far before going to a Dealership. garage, mechanic or auto-electrician (even though often they themselves might do a better job than the professionals they pay, in England at least, from my decades of personal experience).

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

@Exkiwi things are different in England at least, if not UK, to Australia, New Zealand and Tasmania (as well as Europe and USA). Generally if you wanted to do a load test it would be a DIY one as very few old school battery load testers are about and I doubt they're used commercially, it's modern computer battery tester electronics now. (Of course now someone will say about some old village garage in the middle of nowhere that has an "uld skool" one that can be used if Fred is working there that day. 😄)

A chap from Tasmania used to say to go to a "shop" to get this and that done, and borrow tools! and I would explain that I live in Northamptonshire a county of motorsports engineering yet I'd have to ask an older mate who he knows that might know somewhere doing the stuff the chap from Tas would just nip to a "shop" for.

Time and patience will also tell how much the battery holds and performs but many car owners have very little stock or out of stock of one, the other, or both - and no access to a load tester or knowledge or inclination to do a DIY test. This is a general (VWŠkoda) car owner's site and whilst there are some specialists members (not me) the majority aren't so they only want to go so far before going to a Dealership. garage, mechanic or auto-electrician (even though often they themselves might do a better job than the professionals they pay, in England at least, from my decades of personal experience).

Well I just go down to Battery World as I have done for past 23 years Ive been in Aus and they have a little tester that they hook across the terminals and it gives a reading as If you had turned the starter on. Was the Manager of the first one I went to that told me that was the way to get the true state of the battery.. Test is also free if you buy a battery and generally they dont charge if its bad but not bad enough. Yes I know about the "New" tools and was using the term as a way of explaining. Battery can float up over 12 and not have enough grunt to start the car. Also the indicator of a bad battery in a VAG car is usually a christmas tree of lights on the dash and no action from a lot of stuff. S/S wont work other stuff plays up. 95% its a stuffed battery especially after abut 4 years. Im still learning Ive only owned about 36 cars in 65 years of owning them.

Edited 12 June, 202512 Jun by Exkiwi

4 minutes ago, Exkiwi said:

Also the indicator of a bad battery in a VAG car is usually a christmas tree of lights on the dash and no action from a lot of stuff. S/S wont work other stuff pays up 95% its a stuffed battery especially after abut 4 years

Sorry but that's not correct. It maybe an indicator of the car's owner/driver use, abused and/or neglect of the battery through not knowing and understanding or caring, that's the more likily.

A battery is getting quite low, or has been taken quite low, to get to the stage of Xmas tree dash lights but often a full(to 100%) recharge of the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer and following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual@ and charger's instructions can revive the battery for much more reliable use.

Of course if the battery has been flogged too much and or too frequently then the chances of useful revival diminish possibly to a point of no return.

The stop/start is the first thing to not work and this is a first early warning, if ignored continuously then things progress badly.

Far too many owner/drivers think if the headlights seem brighter enough and the engine starts then the battery state of charge can't be too low for the computer systems but by the time the battery has difficulty starting the engine the battery has been flogged badly and if the engine can't be started by the battery unless it's a one-off drain t he battery has been flogged to near death if not practical death.

VW . . . (rocks, press the wrong key again, part two to follow)

Edited 12 June, 202512 Jun by nta16
ETA

. . . part two . . .

VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manuals' used to put to change the battery at 5 years and later I believe changed to 4 years (VWŠkoda car warranty is only 3 years in UK) but some owners/drivers only get to just over 3 years before they (think) they need to change the battery. Other owner/drivers get many more years out of the battery with very little (very easy effort).

The 12v battery is one of the most oversold car parts because of batteries being changed prematurely and very prematurely but it's each to their own if if someone wants to buy an expensive battery and possibly also pay for the 'coding' that is their choice just seems a waste of money and resources particular if it's also through a lack of knowledge to make a more informed choice. But I do fully understand that sometimes it's personally better to pay out to avoid hassle, "hassle money" was a term a mate used in his business.

Unfortunately here many that used to use the old across the terminals gauge would sell you a new battery even if the one you had was OK.

@Exkiwi for you if you're interested, see from 6:42 on this video for a load tester from before the days of H&S, the amusing but always informative John twist, dealing with very old British cars in the US of A, some that used double 6v batteries to get 12v, different case materials and other stuff from way back - but the principals remain the same. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnbQ2G5K2zI

I really cant be bothered arguing the toss but in my Passat and wifes Polo the same thing happened in both. Got hard to start Put a Ctek on them didnt last long and all the lights on and got them checked and didnt have enough guts to light a match. Both were only 4 years old and cars had only done about 4000km a year. Im not into f ing around with chargers to get an extra 6 months out of it so took it to the man and he fixed it.. But it IS a fact that batteries can show a reasonable float charge but wont start the car.. Regarding your part 2 Firstly its principles. The other spelling runs a school. Secondly if you dont code a new battery in you deserve all you will eventually get. You do it your way As an AGM battery is about $400 here I dont waste money if I dont have to.. All I have to say as obviously we are diametrically opposed

Edited 12 June, 202512 Jun by Exkiwi