Hi all,

I have a Fabia 1.0 tsi 95 hp 2021 (mk3) and I'm wanting to try and service it myself.

I have done some research and it seems to be the 0w-20 that is suggested so I think I'm going to go with the Quartz long life (unless there are better recommendations). The real drama I'm finding is comiting to an oil filter as there seems to be a few options. I would be grateful if anyone could direct me towards one they might suggest.

I have went and got most of the tools and ramps etc. and watched plenty of videos, to try and make this happen. Next I'll tackle the pollen and air filters.

I'm usually quite handy with home DIY but normally leave the servicing to the experts but for some crazy reason, I thought I'd give the car servicing a go.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I use a Bosch P7143 oil filter. Fitted 12 so far.

Boa constrictor to remove the oil filter and 19mm socket for the sump plug.

On the oil front I use a C3 oil not a C5 oil.

0W-20 is only the viscosity of the oil.

Thanks. AG Falco

Edited 21 May, 20251 yr by AGFalco
added socket.

Get a tub of swafega hand cleaner as well you’ll need it

1 hour ago, AGFalco said:

I use a Bosch P7143 oil filter. Fitted 12 so far.

Boa constrictor to remove the oil filter and 19mm socket for the sump plug.

On the oil front I use a C3 oil not a C5 oil.

0W-20 is only the viscosity of the oil.

Thanks. AG Falco

Thanks for the suggestions and info. I'm quite impatient when I want things done so just before you replied I went on eurocarparts and bought an Audura oil and air filter and a Bosch pollen filter. I then bought the Quartz 0w-20 long life from Amazon. All arriving tomorrow in preparation for me completing the jobs on Friday.

Perhaps next time I'll go with your suggestions. Thanks again!

5 hours ago, Sco22y said:

I would be grateful if anyone could direct me towards one they might suggest.

I was very pleased with the Mann Filters oil filter I used on my wife's 2015 Fabia. I'm not a VW or German car fan so have no loyalty to Tosch but I'm sure their oil filters are fine (a lot of Tosch stuff is just labelled, anything electrical or electronics I favour Japanese, VW spark plugs are/were NGK in a VW box I believe.

What oil you use is always a debate and beliefs, go with what you prefer or are happy with, personally I use Millers Oils because they're a local blender, based on VW's engine recommendation Millers Which Oil has EE Performance Engine Oil C5 V 0w20 (VW 508 000 / 509 000) but a thicker oil (0w-30 or 5w-30) will not damage your engine and if you want to go with a C3 instead I believe AGFalco has thoroughly tested this ibn the real world.

5 hours ago, Sco22y said:

I'm usually quite handy with home DIY but normally leave the servicing to the experts but for some crazy reason, I thought I'd give the car servicing a go.

Great. You'll probably do a better job than most paid professionals, it's very easy as I can do it, just prepare thoroughly, take your time doing the work (don't worry about how quick any Billy-big-*******s say they can do the job (often gross exaggerations anyway) and check and treble check everything, not doing so is where many professionals balls up.

Most servicing, maintenance and many repairs boil down to clean and lubricate - changing engine oil and filter being a prime example.

Things I do that I've not always seen all on videos for oil changes are -

get the engine fully warm (hot - obvious remain safe),

check the fill (level) cap (plug) fully removes before removing drain plug,

leave to empty for as long as possible (to get ass much old oil and muck out leaving more space for fresh new clean oil)

at very end of drain add in some warmed (solar or water) clean oil and leave to fully drain out as a sort of final mini-flush

refill with half to two-thirds quantity of oil and check and top up slowly from there in small quantities allowing oil to fully settle, check level after first run and next morning.

You don't need to prefill oil filter but do check the oil seal is on the old filter and not stuck on engine, wipe clean the area and don't forget to put a little oil on the new filter seal. The oil filter goes good hand tight, not murder tight, or forearm muscles bigger than brains tight.

One of the annoying PITA parts for me is having to get the car off the ground to revive the plastic undertray (without it fitted the car could remain on the ground) and refitting it is always more PITA than it should be. Have plenty of rags or paper towelling as though there shouldn't be much mess the oil refuses to accept this.

Good luck, let us know how you get on. If you take photos you could do a guide for other first timers (wee all have to do things for a first time).

ETA:

For future - Amazon I've rarely found to be lowest price on anything, often higher priced for same items, and if you shop around with oils you can often find sale prices, especially when brands are changing their marketing,

For future Mann pollen/cabin filters 3 types IIRC) are also good and give fitting instructions, very, very easy on my wife's 2015.

9 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I was very pleased with the Mann Filters oil filter I used on my wife's 2015 Fabia. I'm not a VW or German car fan so have no loyalty to Tosch but I'm sure their oil filters are fine (a lot of Tosch stuff is just labelled, anything electrical or electronics I favour Japanese, VW spark plugs are/were NGK in a VW box I believe.

What oil you use is always a debate and beliefs, go with what you prefer or are happy with, personally I use Millers Oils because they're a local blender, based on VW's engine recommendation Millers Which Oil has EE Performance Engine Oil C5 V 0w20 (VW 508 000 / 509 000) but a thicker oil (0w-30 or 5w-30) will not damage your engine and if you want to go with a C3 instead I believe AGFalco has thoroughly tested this ibn the real world.

Great. You'll probably do a better job than most paid professionals, it's very easy as I can do it, just prepare thoroughly, take your time doing the work (don't worry about how quick any Billy-big-*******s say they can do the job (often gross exaggerations anyway) and check and treble check everything, not doing so is where many professionals balls up.

Most servicing, maintenance and many repairs boil down to clean and lubricate - changing engine oil and filter being a prime example.

Things I do that I've not always seen all on videos for oil changes are -

get the engine fully warm (hot - obvious remain safe),

check the fill (level) cap (plug) fully removes before removing drain plug,

leave to empty for as long as possible (to get ass much old oil and muck out leaving more space for fresh new clean oil)

at very end of drain add in some warmed (solar or water) clean oil and leave to fully drain out as a sort of final mini-flush

refill with half to two-thirds quantity of oil and check and top up slowly from there in small quantities allowing oil to fully settle, check level after first run and next morning.

You don't need to prefill oil filter but do check the oil seal is on the old filter and not stuck on engine, wipe clean the area and don't forget to put a little oil on the new filter seal. The oil filter goes good hand tight, not murder tight, or forearm muscles bigger than brains tight.

One of the annoying PITA parts for me is having to get the car off the ground to revive the plastic undertray (without it fitted the car could remain on the ground) and refitting it is always more PITA than it should be. Have plenty of rags or paper towelling as though there shouldn't be much mess the oil refuses to accept this.

Good luck, let us know how you get on. If you take photos you could do a guide for other first timers (wee all have to do things for a first time).

ETA:

For future - Amazon I've rarely found to be lowest price on anything, often higher priced for same items, and if you shop around with oils you can often find sale prices, especially when brands are changing their marketing,

For future Mann pollen/cabin filters 3 types IIRC) are also good and give fitting instructions, very, very easy on my wife's 2015.

Thanks for the info and advice. Having watched so many videos I'd say the thing that I'm most apprehensive about is driving the car up the ramps I bought. They are the halfords 2 ton orange ones and there doesn't seem to be much space between the ramp and the bottom of the bumper when put in place. I've got some planks of wood I could probably add to give the car a wee lift up. I'm aware you can get extenders but I'm sure the wood underneath will be fine. And there's also the chance of me over-shooting it over the ramps. I can just picture it, and my wife's face as she watches on after helping me position them in place. 😂

Edited 21 May, 20251 yr by Sco22y

Getting up ramps can be a pain especially with modern cars and their interfering computer programs also all modern cars for a good number of decades now have had to follow fashion and have oversized wheels and over-wide tyres, even glorified shopping trollies, high heels and party frock style. These may be oversized for your orange Halfords ramps, my old ones and current ones are 2 Tonne but for 135mm to 185 mm tyres, so just in if you have the 185/65 r15 tyres.

The ramps may slide, if I use them I brace them against the wall with substantial pieces of wood so they don't slide forward at least and they will also be parallel to the wall so straight on for approach. Unless you have modified your car the front should clear the start of the ramps, approach, straight to ramps and slowly, getting up and on top is always 'fun'. Have your wife (your the glamorous assistant, or very reluctant assistant in my case) clear of the car at the side, obviously not at the front or rear of the car, if anything gets hurt it should never be your wife, you, or anyone or creature else just the useless lump of metal (and German plastic) or tools. The very best and/or most expensive car in the world is in reality of no real importance or value. I injured my back, still suffer now, by trying to stop the Fabia road wheel falling 1" (25mm) to the ground instead of letting it fall, stupid thoughtless instinct (and !"£$%^& stupid VW wheel bolts instead of wheel studs). I got a small injury when I was 19 and for 40 years it was fine, after that it plays up more and more often. Trust no one, my neighbour couldn't follow simple instructions getting his 2023 car on to some 3" (75mm) breeze blocks and went forward instead of back, good job I wasn't too close.

Refill oil only to half or two-thirds until off the ramps and on level ground, let oil settle for a while after the engine has ben run before checking oil level. It's easier to add more than take a bit out so top up in small amounts, leave to settle then check. I prefer to fill to about 80%-90% then fill to max line next morning. If you have it at max line (or anywhere just below) you then know the oil level you put it at and can then tell and judge how much oil the engine consumes before the next engine oil and filter change. IF required I always top up below it gets below halfway between Max and Min on the stick, hopefully that won't b before the next oil and filter change but that depends on engine, the oil and driving conditions.

On the cabin filter clean the (inside) area as well, same for engine air filter, don't just replace the filter and leave muck in the area, some spray stuff for cabin filter, I've never had to bother other than on a neighbour's car which rarely moved and a few years since last filter change so had damp there too.

Oh, don't be impatient as it often works against you. any work on a car leave lots more time than you think you might need, double, treble, more that way if you finish before this it's great but if you don't leave long enough then rushing like impatience can often work against you and can make the job(s) a lot longer and more hassle. Consider what you'll do if you get stuck for any reason, are the shops open, can you get deliveries, when will it be dark/cold/wet/too hot/too windy, have you got another vehicle, etc.. I've rarely had a garage to work in, for some coolant system jobs I've allowed 3 warm dry days to get the work done - also to allow for getting fed up with it and going to do something more enjoyable (which is anything for me) usually when I do this I easily get the job finished in a day, a morning once, the fact that Billy-big-******* can do it in x-hours or x-minutes never worries me (they're always exaggerating or never allowing for full preparation and end tidying, cleaning, putting away and checking for restocking.

Now I spend more time drinking mugs of tea and needing to go for pees, and looking for the tool(s) or fitting(s) I was using or put down only seconds ago. If I've dropped a fixing I have to wait for my wife to come home and she spots it in seconds, even if it's a black fitting fell in a black engine bay against black parts and paints, 'ow she do it!!?!!

Well yesterday I managed to change the oil with the help of my wife as my assistant. I found it went up the ramps quite easily and did not hit the bottom of the bumper. I've got to say it seemed to be relatively OK. However, I found it difficult to read the dipstick with accuracy. I have seen the diagrams that are readily available online for this model but it was so challenging to make out a definitive line-mark. After leaving it overnight, I must have checked it about 10 times this morning as there were often several oil lines in various places. I have came to the conclusion, I think I may have slightly overfilled (4.1-2 litres). I attached a photo with a red line, where I believe the oil mark is (but still not certain as its so hard to see the new oil).

I'm contemplating getting an oil syringe rather than going back under the motor and taking off the protector and releasing some oil out the sump. This will probably be delivered tomorrow, and I'm not really needing the car today anyway. Does this sound sensible or am I overreacting.

I also changed the pollen filter and realised it had been in the wrong way. The one I took out was facing the passenger window and the videos I watched stated the arrows should be pointing towards the middle unit.

The rain started to come on so I have left the air filter for a time when it won't be wet.

When I was under the car I noticed that the exhaust was starting to rust so I will do some research on how to deal with this and prevent it from happening further.

It's actually quite addictive, this car maintenance malarkey, when you get started. 😂

Edited 24 May, 20251 yr by Sco22y

Are you going to be checking the Oil as per Owners Manual?

So good you dip cold / ambient temp, you know you have oil.

All VW / Skoda engines other than those now with no dip stick or 44 kW 1.2 Euro 4 engines are checked

'Dipped at normal operating temperature'.

So that is about a 90 *oC indicated temp on the car. Oil temp not coolant.

Not WARM. Not sitting ticking over for 5 minutes... As Tech / Fitters / Mechanics say is fine. (Hence so many not filled with enough oil from a service, they are supposed to recheck after the road test after a service.)

So after a drive of about 5 miles maybe at this time of year, (or when you get stopped after a run, or home from a car serviced.)

stop on the flat, wait a few minutes. (A few is 4 or 5 minutes.) About the same as after topping up with fuel.

Where is the oil on the dipstick compared to dipped cold?

Have you overfilled?

When you know where the correct level is at NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE,

you know once cold where it should be before setting off on trips. AREA 'A'.

Edited 24 May, 20251 yr by Ootohere

44 minutes ago, Sco22y said:

1. The rain started to come on so I have left the air filter for a time when it won't be wet.

2. When I was under the car I noticed that the exhaust was starting to rust so I will do some research on how to deal with this and prevent it from happening further.

1. This isn't much of a problem really. Leave the new filter in its box until you've got the old one out and the new one can only get rained on for about a minute.

2. This also isn't necessarily an issue; is this crusty rust or just a rust coloured film on the pipe? My old Octavia had a film on the exhaust from the catalytic converter back for about 15 years without needing replaced.

Look in the manual it will tell you how much oil the car takes with a oil filter change ,after draining the oil and putting in new filter just measure said amount of oil and refill ,good to go ,modern dipsticks are usually crap and difficult to read ,and cars now come without dipsticks ,apart from the ones behind the wheel 😂

Well done on doing this, and getting the help of a glamorous assistant (this I'm sure will fade if you ask too often).

As the VWŠkoda Owner's Manual doesn't give a refill capacity, "Simply (not) Clever" I'd go on what Miller's Oil What Oil database has as a guide (after checking with other sources). 4.1 or 4.2 sounds a lot to me but I don't know the engine, as I put always easier to add more than subtract.

The "Simply Clever" black dip stick is a pain to read from especially with new clean oil (but same for metal colour ones), I sometimes have to do several dips and wipes but soon the oil suspends the dirt and it gets easier to read.

Your red mark is only just over the 'Max' so you could leave it but if it bothers you then suck the oil out to get it below the mark, you can always add it back in if you go too low.

Once you have checked the oil a few times with the engine fully warmed and oil left to settle and a few times from cold you'll get to know the oil level. In my wife's car engine I don't see any (to me noticeable difference and as I put I don't mind it at 80-90% between the two marks anyway. With old engines I've found they like their own level with can be below 'max' on the dipstick with the engine and filling the oil to 'Max' it's soon lost.

You want the oil fully warmed about 90c on the oil temperature gauge, yes the oil can cope below this but the same as all the driver "aids" and 2assists2 on the car they can't beat physics, all the traction stuff in the world can't beat the tyre to road contact (or lack of it), help yes beat no.

For the cabin filter have a look at the leaflet in the Mann filter - never assume others have fitted a part correctly, always check and double/triple check with other (hopefully) reliable sources. - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue.html

For engine air filter, some videos on line are better than others for details and ways of doing the work, I don't think the later 3-cylinder cars are as much of a PITA job to get the filter housing out of the car as with my wife' 4-pot, 1.2 but like all jobs you want to take your time with it and clean not just replace the filter. Personally I'd never leave the filter as long as the schedule, again it might be OK but it depends on the environment you drive and park the car in and as the car is is basically a giant air pump on wheels best the air going through isn't too contaminated.

It's good you enjoyed your work and go the satisfaction of doing it yourself - as for additive, no-comment. 😄

1 minute ago, Mickvrs220 said:

Look in the manual it will tell you how much oil the car takes with a oil filter change ,after draining the oil and putting in new filter just measure said amount of oil and refill ,good to go ,modern dipsticks are usually crap and difficult to read ,and cars now come without dipsticks ,apart from the ones behind the wheel 😂

I posted just too later. Most Owner's Manuals have refill capacities but not (VW?) VWŠKoda.

Some of their workshop manuals might but refill capacity depends on how much oil is taken out leaving how much residue of old oil and muck, there will always be some unless you take the engine apart. This is why I go with adding about two-thirds to start with and top up with small amounts for as long as it takes.

And as with all databases including those from manufacturers there are errors and omissions, measuring what comes out isn't accurate, especially if you've spilt some no matter how much you've tried to avoid this. 😁

I'm more thorough than most about oil changes but still surprised by how much residue is in.

Steering wheel dipsticks excluded (far too many of them) I thought they went back from excluding the metal dipsticks to including them again but I'm not familiar with too many newer cars (I'm sure an AI sensor system would save any worries).

Edited 24 May, 20251 yr by nta16

I drop mine every 12 months without fail including filter 2.0 vrs tsi ,put 5.7 litres back in good to go till next year ,never had any issues in last seven years .

Thank you to everyone who has replied and given me advice. I just went out there and changed the air filter. The only drama I had was I over tightened the screw in line with the air pipe and damaged the screw head, so the next time I go to undo this I will have to do some problem solving.

After everything Was back in place, including those pesky clips, I then took the car for 5 minute drive. After I had parked back up on the flat, I waited five minutes before checking the oil. Once again I was baffled. When I inspected the dipstick, one side was just under maximum but the other side was a good couple of mm above my red line (on the photo above). The same happened the 2nd and 3rd time I checked. Surely if there was a pool of oil at the base of the dipstick, the oil would surround both sides of the dipstick when I push it down-seems not in my case.

I think I will just order the syringe and take about 400ml when it comes tomorrow, just to be on the safe side.

@Mickvrs220 If all smaller capacity 3 or 4 TSI,s with a smaller oil capacity were like yours it would be 'Simply Clever'.

If all 1.2 & 1.4, or 1.8 & 2.0 TSI Euro 5 engines were like yours them people might have had less My car uses oil threads.

@Sco22y If a dipstick is really difficult to read and see the dry from the wet, a little rub with chalk or a slight dusting of french chalk / talc does the job and really does not affect / spoil the Hot Oil.

Edited 24 May, 20251 yr by Ootohere

26 minutes ago, Ootohere said:

@Mickvrs220 If all smaller capacity 3 or 4 TSI,s with a smaller oil capacity were like yours it would be 'Simply Clever'.

If all 1.2 & 1.4, or 1.8 & 2.0 TSI Euro 5 engines were like yours them people might have had less My car uses oil threads.

@Sco22y If a dipstick is really difficult to read and see the dry from the wet, a little rub with chalk or a slight dusting of french chalk / talc does the job and really does not affect / spoil the Hot Oil.

Youve kind of lost me on your post george ,all i was saying is all engines take a certain capicity of oil ,if you go to a garage they will drain and refill to said capicity and send you on your way ,they wont follow you round for the next three days topping up little bits till their happy.i would have tagged by username george but i dont actually know how to do it 🥴

Edited 24 May, 20251 yr by Mickvrs220

They send many out low on oil and then members are on here saying a warning light is on after only 5,000 miles. That is mostly 1.5 TSI,s now. And then we have the I have a message on too much oil. Check the oil when hot once home. Check once after an oil and filter change. Not that much to do.

1 hour ago, Sco22y said:

I over tightened the screw

That a paid professional's job! 😄 I hope you was using a (manual) hand tool, the correct screwdriver with correct end on it (better than these with bit ends. If so it just a case of learning, I often overtighten, it's about being insecurity in your abilities rather than the fitting. Replace the scew when you get a chance or use a screwdriver that fits well to this damaged screw next time. Seeing it there can be a reminder not to overtighten.

1 hour ago, Sco22y said:

one side was just under maximum but the other side was a good couple of mm above

Only look at the side with the indent, ignore the other side, if you're not sure wipe the stick and try again. Clean oil can be very difficult to see, if taking from cold engine then if you don't worry about oil on your skin (and I don't blame anyone that does) angle the stick area on your finger and you can perhaps easier see or feel the oil line. Holding the stick against a white piece of paper is often better to your eyes than on a photo. Don't worry these dipsticks aren't good for seeing oil level when the oil is clean and fresh and withdrawing the stick from the tube can give runs so allow time between each look.

As I put I think you will be happier taking some oil out and as I put that's finer because you can put some back in too.

Another way if you want to, get the engine fully warmed and go for a long run driving "Italian tune-up" style for as much of it as you can and that will possibly drop the level and "blow out the pipes", does the car and driver good every now and then. 😄 (road safety at all times obviously)

1 hour ago, Mickvrs220 said:

i would have tagged by username george but i dont actually know how to do it 🥴

type the symbol @ just in front of Ootohere - example @nta16 = @nta16

@nta16 thanks for that ,now i know a new thing 😁