Hello,

I recently had a major issue with my 2010 vrs... it originally started 4-5 weeks ago, when the airbag like came on the dash and at the same time, the door locks kept trying to unlock constantly while driving... a couple of days later, all the warning lights started flickering on and off on the dash, the backlight keeps flickering on and off and its beeping loudly.

I had a local auto electrician have a look at it and when he plugged his computer in, he was struggling to get it to connect to the cluster... in the end, he sent it off to a company to get it repaired... they had it for almost 2 weeks and came to the conclusion that its unfixable...

I've been trying to find a used cluster online with the part number 1Z0920903F but I can't find one anywhere... the closest I can find is 1Z0920903R... would the last letter make a difference and would I be able to fit it to my car and have it coded properly? I'm not very technical when it comes to electronics in cars...

I've tried uploaded a video on what the cluster is doing but the video file is too big...

Thanks

Rob

Is 1Z0920903F a maxidot instrument cluster? Do you have mph on the speedo clock face or only kph?

Can you check the part number, 1Z0920943F would make more sense.

Kev.

Do you know if the cluster been replaced before by a previous owner?

2 minutes ago, tetley said:

Do you know if the cluster been replaced before by a previous owner?

Hello, thanks for the reply... I will add some photo's of the rear of the cluster, it is definitely 903...

I'm unsure if the cluster has been replaced before, but I know for sure it has been removed and tampered with in the past...

When we first removed the cluster, the clips holding the plastic glass on were broken... I always noticed my buld warning light to be illuminated all the time, but was very dim and could only really see it at night... we quickly noticed it had been coloured over with a permanent marker 🤦‍♂️🤣

Also, when the company who the auto electrician sent the cluster off to, had noticed there was an issue with the EPROM, it looked like it might been been removed and re soldered... but they failed at fixing the cluster.

I still haven't tried vagcom on the car, but i'm in the process of getting someone round to plug her in

Also, yes, its MPH on the face of the cluster

I've just uploaded a video of what the cluster is doing on my YouTube... the file was too big to upload onto here.

https://youtu.be/uSSe2sjRP_I?si=KUvFmZfxICYNm1vX

Edited 14 December, 202514 Dec by Robdog10000

Hi

I suspect the cluster is a European model non VRS cluster with the clock faces swapped over from the original factory fitted cluster to make it look like a UK model cluster. That would not be a problem as the circuit board are the same anyway, if correctly coded.

Petrol VRS (UK only) cluster part numbers are 1Z0920943C SW: 01xx, 1Z0920943H SW: 03xx, 1Z0920943L SW: 04xx and 1Z0920943R SW: 06xx.

1Z0920943F SW: 03xx is the non VRS of the VRS "H" suffix.

In answer to your question yes 1Z0920943R SW: 06xx would be a suitable (and better) replacement for a UK model petrol VRS. There is a separate handbrake 'On' warning lamp (rev counter side) as opposed to using the ABS warning lamp in a duel role (Handbrake On/Brake Failure).

Coding is the main problem as the cluster stores the Immobiliser code and the SKU needs to be retrieved from both clusters to use VCDS for the swap.

Kev.

Just realised you were asking about the 1Z0920903R.

1Z0920903R is from the VRS Black Edition and appears to be a petrol cluster. (I need to add it it to my cluster part numbers list). Confirm with the seller first before buying.

Kev.

Edited 14 December, 202514 Dec by tetley

I'm getting a little confused here haha, do you reckon the cluster must have been changed in the past?

The mileage on this car is only 41k... I've owned it for 2 years now and bought it on 35k...

I was shocked at how low the mileage is, but according to the MOT history, it all lines up correctly 🤷‍♂️

If I were to buy this cluster: https://ebay.us/m/MUH2QA

Would it fit and work ok in this car? Would the mileage automatically change or is the mileage stored in the cluster? I dont want clocks with 180k on when it should be 41k 😅

I have a couple of friends with VCDS, i'm unsure how knowledgeable they are with recoding parts though...

1 hour ago, Robdog10000 said:

I'm getting a little confused here haha, do you reckon the cluster must have been changed in the past?

Very possibly. Why else desolder the EEPROM?

1 hour ago, Robdog10000 said:

The mileage on this car is only 41k... I've owned it for 2 years now and bought it on 35k...

I was shocked at how low the mileage is, but according to the MOT history, it all lines up correctly

The mileage is also stored in the ECU and some other systems. See here for using VCDS to check https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/EDC-15-Mileage.php

1 hour ago, Robdog10000 said:

Would it fit and work ok in this car?

If it's for a petrol car (I think it is - as it looks to be petrol), yes but check first. Software version is good. I've been over to see them and they are a good help. Phone is 07753 912720.

VCDS can do the coding but you will need both SKU immobiliser code (PIN) from the old and the new replacement clusters. VCDS can NOT retrive these codes. You will need to find a specialist who can.

See here: https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer_IV_Immobilizer_Swapping_(Instrument_Cluster)

for instructions on swapping instrument clusters with VCDS.

1 hour ago, Robdog10000 said:

The mileage on this car is only 41k... I've owned it for 2 years now and bought it on 35k...

Mines on 46K with full MOT and servicing history to back it up.

42 minutes ago, tetley said:

Very possibly. Why else desolder the EEPROM?

The mileage is also stored in the ECU and some other systems. See here for using VCDS to check https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/EDC-15-Mileage.php

If it's for a petrol car (I think it is - as it looks to be petrol), yes but check first. Software version is good. I've been over to see them and they are a good help. Phone is 07753 912720.

VCDS can do the coding but you will need both SKU immobiliser code (PIN) from the old and the new replacement clusters. VCDS can NOT retrive these codes. You will need to find a specialist

31 minutes ago, tetley said:

Mines on 46K with full MOT and servicing history to back it up.

Awesome! Thank you very much for your help 👌👌 i will go ahead and purchase that cluster and then find a company which will be able to retrieve the codes for me 👌

You could use a cloning service instead of trying to obtain SKU/PIN codes. Probably cheaper as well.

https://jccars.co.uk/instrument-cluster-repairs-programming/

Half way down the page:-

"Our VAG cluster cloning service can be used if you have a faulty Instrument cluster on your vehicle, for example it may be water damaged or have a blown component. If you are looking to replace the cluster on these vehicles you may be aware that you cannot simply remove one from another vehicle & install it onto yours as the cluster is ‘Locked’ to a different vehicles electronic / immobilizer system and the mileage will be incorrect. We have the solution! Simply send us your original (Faulty) cluster & the donor (Replacement) unit & we will transfer the data from your original to the replacement enabling the used unit to work on your vehicle with no further programming necessary. Once the donor unit has been programmed (Cloned) the coding of the unit will be correct & the car will start &  function as it should. The mileage display will show the correct mileage of your car & your key data will be transferred – The central locking etc will be unaffected & operate correctly. We do NOT need the PIN code from your vehicle or the donor part to do this operation – We are able to clone these units even if you have ‘No communication’ with diagnostic tools – Your vehicles immobilizer PIN code, Component security number & MAC code is supplied to you at no extra cost with this service."

Edited 15 December, 202515 Dec by tetley
typo

7 hours ago, tetley said:

You could use a cloning service instead of trying to obtain SKU/PIN codes. Probably cheaper as well.

https://jccars.co.uk/instrument-cluster-repairs-programming/

Half way down the page:-

"Our VAG cluster cloning service can be used if you have a faulty Instrument cluster on your vehicle, for example it may be water damaged or have a blown component. If you are looking to replace the cluster on these vehicles you may be aware that you cannot simply remove one from another vehicle & install it onto yours as the cluster is ‘Locked’ to a different vehicles electronic / immobilizer system and the mileage will be incorrect. We have the solution! Simply send us your original (Faulty) cluster & the donor (Replacement) unit & we will transfer the data from your original to the replacement enabling the used unit to work on your vehicle with no further programming necessary. Once the donor unit has been programmed (Cloned) the coding of the unit will be correct & the car will start &  function as it should. The mileage display will show the correct mileage of your car & your key data will be transferred – The central locking etc will be unaffected & operate correctly. We do NOT need the PIN code from your vehicle or the donor part to do this operation – We are able to clone these units even if you have ‘No communication’ with diagnostic tools – Your vehicles immobilizer PIN code, Component security number & MAC code is supplied to you at no extra cost with this service."

Awesome!! Thats the exact thing i was looking for! I'll go ahead and purchase that cluster from Ebay and I will contact JC cars for them to clone the cluster for me 👌 thank you very much! You're a legend 👌👌👌

Hello,

I still haven't contacted JCcars to have the cluster cloned (waiting on payday 😩)

I was just wondering, I purchased that cluster with the part number 1Z0920903R off Ebay...

While my original part number is 1Z0920903F

What exactly does the last letter correspond to? Do you think it will cause any issues when I finally get it sent off to JCcars?

Thanks again, rob

So a little update on whats going on... i just recieved my new cluster from being cloned by JCcars...

I just plugged her into the car, connected battery up and started the car... exactly the same issues as before. Loads of beeping, lights flickering on the dash, doors trying to constantly unlock...

I dont have a clue where to go from here now 😩😩

On 15/12/2025 at 00:52, tetley said:

If the EEPROM in the original chip were defective, they would have cloned the error along with it. Was the original dump saved by the new chip? Was it really the same EEPROM? I think no

Whats the condition of your battery and is the alternator actually charging. May be the cluster but low voltage can cause all manner of weird things. The fact it started and imobiliser didnt come on I assume its been coded ok.

Alasdair

8 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

Whats the condition of your battery and is the alternator actually charging. May be the cluster but low voltage can cause all manner of weird things. The fact it started and imobiliser didnt come on I assume its been coded ok.

Alasdair

Hi pal, so the car has been sat for a couple of months and the battery had fully drained... so put it on charge last week and it was holding around 12.5V after charging it... i've had an auto electrician look at it previously and he thought it could be the battery... so he put a jump pack on the battery and started the car, with the same issues...

Yeah, the car starts no problem, so i'm guessing its been coded correctly too...

I dont have a multi meter to check if the alternator is working correctly, but all the issues the car has now, all started with the airbag light coming on and the doors constantly trying to unlock...

I'm unsure on what to do next, other than get it booked into a garage, which will be £££££

Check the cluster is making good contact with connector. Mine came loose on my 08 plate and caused all manner of lights etc. Other than that not sure. Might be a problem with door wiring if its trying to lock all the time and airbag light is on. Check there are no broken wires in the rubber boot on both front doors.

Alasdair

Just now, Alasdair1 said:

Check the cluster is making good contact with connector. Mine came loose on my 08 plate and caused all manner of lights etc. Other than that not sure. Might be a problem with door wiring if its trying to lock all the time and airbag light is on. Check there are no broken wires in the rubber boot on both front doors.

Alasdair

So I just went back out to the car now... thought i'd take it for a short drive to release the brakes etc... just went to start it... the engine starts up, then 2seconds later it cuts out again...

Tried it 3 or 4 times and keep cutting out after 2 seconds 🤔🤔 would that be the immobiliser? Or would the immobiliser cause the starter motor to not work at all? 🤔🤔

On my diesel when the imobilser decided to come on due to a bad key it was like yours starts then stops within 2 secs. I think some petrols are different and just wont start but not entirely sure as all mine are diesel. Is there any light on dash like an orange key or padlock?

Alasdair

6 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

On my diesel when the imobilser decided to come on due to a bad key it was like yours starts then stops within 2 secs. I think some petrols are different and just wont start but not entirely sure as all mine are diesel. Is there any light on dash like an orange key or padlock?

Alasdair

I wonder if i made a mistake...?

So when I recieved the cluster back today, I tried it with the key (usually my spare key) that I sent away for JCcars to programme the cluster... when I originally tried it with that key, the engine started fine and ticked over no problem, but the cluster was still throwing loads of lights etc...

When I decided to take it for a drive, I used my other key (normal key i use daily) and that's when the engine wont start... i just tried my spare key again and the engine is still cutting out (even though it started no problem with that key...)

I've uploaded a photo of the lights on the dash...

😂

Sorry, Bad Work from JCars

He didn't clone anything. He read the immobilizer data from the old speedometer and one key, and wrote that data to the new speedometer. The second key is not stored in the new speedometer.