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Octavia 2 2010 vrs petrol instrument cluster failure

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I would now also avoid going online with ODIS with connection to the factory server. Could trigger security alarm due to theft or manipulation

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  • Robdog10000
    Robdog10000

    So, huge update here... ITS FIXED! I recieved the gateway module back this afternoon and put everything back as it should... started the car and everything seems to be working fine again! So it was d

  • The immobilizer has nothing to do with the battery in the key.

  • Unlocking the door has nothing to do with the speedometer. This function is controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module). Of course, the immobilizer can be adjusted without a second key.

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Dont suppose you have another battery to try or perhaps jump it just in case battery has had it by sitting for so long. The red steering symbol can be low voltage/failed rack and I cant remember if mine illuminates at ignition (cars away). The other red exclamation is if I remember brakes. Sons fabia had it and it was a strip fuse near battery compartment that had a crack in it. Might be worth checking them.

Alasdair

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1 minute ago, Cairus said:

He didn't clone anything. He read the immobilizer data from the old speedometer and one key, and wrote that data to the new speedometer. The second key is not stored in the new speedometer.

Hmmmm, possibly... i'll have to phone them tomorrow and see what he has to say... the mileage etc all matches my old cluster, so surely he has cloned them? I should have used the same key to determine whether its the key that's caused the immobiliser to kick in 😩😩

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1 minute ago, Alasdair1 said:

Dont suppose you have another battery to try or perhaps jump it just in case battery has had it by sitting for so long. The red steering symbol can be low voltage/failed rack and I cant remember if mine illuminates at ignition (cars away). The other red exclamation is if I remember brakes. Sons fabia had it and it was a strip fuse near battery compartment that had a crack in it. Might be worth checking them.

Alasdair

I dont have a spare battery at my house, but I do have an older battery at my dad's house which i may be able to try... i'm currently charging my jump pack to 100% and gonna try put it on the battery and see if it will start that way... i'll let you know how I get on

Start Engine and Stop After 2 Second IS the Immo

Just now, Cairus said:

Motor starten und nach 2 Sekunden stoppen. Ist die Wegfahrsperre?

Change km IS a Work Form 1 Minute and dont need Clone

Each new hardware index in the Octavia 2's instrument cluster had a new EEPROM. Therefore, a direct clone is not possible.

  • Author
7 minutes ago, Cairus said:

Each new hardware index in the Octavia 2's instrument cluster had a new EEPROM. Therefore, a direct clone is not possible.

Ahhh ok, i'm not massively clued up on car electrics, so i'm not totally sure what you mean... but i kinda get what you're saying...

I've just spoke to my mechanic friend and he will come round this week to plug his snap-on computer and try and read what its doing... if he can't figure it out, it looks like i'll have to book it in with the auto electrician

Hopefully a boost will make a difference but it is sounding like an imobilser problem. If it doesnt start with decent voltage then I would give the folks a phone who did the work on the cluster before doing anything else. They may be able to help/advise. I may be wrong but I would assume that if one key worked it should be identical to spare unless theres a problem with one of the transponders or if more modern the key battery has failed and key needs to be resynced to ecu?

Alasdair

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1 minute ago, Alasdair1 said:

Hopefully a boost will make a difference but it is sounding like an imobilser problem. If it doesnt start with decent voltage then I would give the folks a phone who did the work on the cluster before doing anything else. They may be able to help/advise. I may be wrong but I would assume that if one key worked it should be identical to spare unless theres a problem with one of the transponders or if more modern the key battery has failed and key needs to be resynced to ecu?

Alasdair

Hopefully the jump pack might make the difference, but I think its highly unlikely... it definitely sounds like the immobiliser has activated and i'm unsure how to reset it (i've locked and unlocked the car a couple times and its exactly the same...)

Thanks for your help, but I think its time the auto electrician gets a phonecall 😩 if i didnt like this car so much, i'd have scrapped it by now 😅😅

6 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

Hopefully a boost will make a difference but it is sounding like an imobilser problem. If it doesnt start with decent voltage then I would give the folks a phone who did the work on the cluster before doing anything else. They may be able to help/advise. I may be wrong but I would assume that if one key worked it should be identical to spare unless theres a problem with one of the transponders or if more modern the key battery has failed and key needs to be resynced to ecu?

Alasdair

The immobilizer has nothing to do with the battery in the key.

Before boosting disconnect battery for about 1hr and then recconect. Not sure if its needed but touch positive and neg together before reconnecting battery. This in theory should hard reset ECU etc. Not sure how to resync keys but if it doesnt work then might be an idea to try.

Alasdair

35 minutes ago, Cairus said:

Each new hardware index in the Octavia 2's instrument cluster had a new EEPROM. Therefore, a direct clone is not possible.

Simply NOT true.

I don't know where your getting your info from but it's wrong.

I had my own PETROL cluster replaced with a replacement DIESEL cluster AND of a later version - originally 1Z0920943F SW:03 to a later 1Z0920943S SW: 06.

The EEPROM data and software are not the same thing.

The later software includes newer bluetooth icons and now displays the message "Press Clutch To Start" but that has no effect. I can still start the car without pressing the clutch as before. The cluster also now supports Maxidot TPMS but again won't work if activated.

I got retired forum member @Eddie-NL to do mine. He even changed the part number to the correct revised part number.

I don't know all the exact details how he did it but BOTH keys were correctly coded to the car even though the spare was 200 miles away.

Its a bit of a long shot but check the wiring to the reader coil in ignition. Just wondering if its been dislodged when removing cluster? If you can lock and unlock car with fobs I assume they are synced to car. If the reader coil isnt working then it would explain imobilser coming on or the cluster hasnt been cloned correctly.

Hope you get it sorted. Always fancied a VRS Mk2

Alasdair

On 12/12/2025 at 23:08, Robdog10000 said:

I had a local auto electrician have a look at it and when he plugged his computer in, he was struggling to get it to connect to the cluster... in the end, he sent it off to a company to get it repaired... they had it for almost 2 weeks and came to the conclusion that its unfixable...

Maybe speak to that auto electrician again. Both clusters should now start the car if the replacement cluster has been properly cloned.

2 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

If you can lock and unlock car with fobs I assume they are synced to car.

Do both fobs lock and unlock the car? That alone would tell me the cluster has been cloned.

  • Author
30 minutes ago, tetley said:

Do both fobs lock and unlock the car? That alone would tell me the cluster has been cloned.

Hi pal, yeah, both keys lock and unlock the car off of the fob... the key that I sent away to have the cluster cloned, was the key I used first try and the car started no problem... then a hour later, I tried with my other key and that's when the immobiliser kicked in... I definitely need a diagnostic computer to see if it will read the cluster now (originally the diagnostics wouldnt connect to the cluster, but would connect to the ECU and everything else... hence going the route of cluster cloning)

If my pals snap on computer wont connect to the cluster still, I think its definitely needing booked into the auto electrician to see if he can figure it out... luckily, the mechanic I use is in the same yard as the auto electrician... so if he can't figure it out, he'll take it nextdoor

2 hours ago, tetley said:

Einfach nicht wahr.

Ich weiß nicht, woher Sie Ihre Informationen haben, aber sie sind falsch

Ich habe mein eigenes Benzin-Kombiinstrument gegen ein Diesel-Kombiinstrument einer späteren Version austauschen lassen – ursprünglich 1Z0920943F SW:03 auf später 1Z0920943S SW: 06.

Die EEPROM-Daten und die Software sind nicht dasselbe.

Die neuere Software enthält aktualisierte Bluetooth-Symbole und zeigt nun die Meldung „Kupplung zum Starten betätigen“ an, was jedoch keine Wirkung hat. Ich kann das Auto weiterhin wie zuvor ohne Betätigung der Kupplung starten. Das Kombiinstrument unterstützt jetzt auch Maxidot TPMS, aber auch dieses System funktioniert nicht, wenn es aktiviert ist.

Ich bin ein ehemaliges Forumsmitglied.@Eddie-NLum meine zu machen. Er hat sogar die Teilenummer auf die korrekte, überarbeitete Teilenummer geändert

Ich kenne nicht alle genauen Details, wie er das gemacht hat, aber BEIDE Schlüssel waren korrekt auf das Auto codiert, obwohl der Ersatzschlüssel 200 Meilen entfernt war.

Unlocking the door has nothing to do with the speedometer. This function is controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module). Of course, the immobilizer can be adjusted without a second key.

I wrote "direct clone," meaning reading the OEM dump and writing it unchanged to the new speedometer with a different hardware identifier. That would be news to me; that works.

Update?

  • Author
16 minutes ago, Cairus said:

Update?

No update yet bud, I've been working today 😢

I'm hoping my pal comes round tomorrow with his snap on computer to see if it will read the cluster and see what its saying... fingers crossed 🤞

  • Author

So, I have an update...

My pal came round today with his brand new snap on computer... he plugged it in try read the car... it connected to the cluster and it said there was zero codes... but it wouldn't connect to the ECU at all... tried 3 times and it wouldn't connect... so we're currently no closer to finding out what the problem is.

I think the next step is definitely get the car booked into the auto electrician's and see what they can do with it. I have a feeling like there's a connection issue between the ECU and the cluster...

In the mean time... while my pal was here, he put the drivers window all the way down... now it wont come back up again! None of the windows are working off the buttons on the door... when I hold the lock button on the key fob, the window wont come back up... yet, when you hold the unlock button, the other 3 windows come down... 🤯 so now, I'm currently stuck with the drivers window fully down and the other 3 windows 2inches down 🤦‍♂️ how on earth do I get the windows to close?!

Not sure on the windows. Do you have an aftermarket radio in car. They can stop scanners reading ECU for some reason. If you do unplug it completey and try again.

When my Seat imobilser stuck on the guy from the AA could read some parts but couldnt access ECU or imobiliser. Probably a security thing.

Alasdair

  • Author
1 minute ago, Alasdair1 said:

Not sure on the windows. Do you have an aftermarket radio in car. They can stop scanners reading ECU for some reason. If you do unplug it completey and try again.

When my Seat imobilser stuck on the guy from the AA could read some parts but couldnt access ECU or imobiliser. Probably a security thing.

Alasdair

A matter if fact, yes... I do have an aftermarket head unit... that could be the issue... i'll have to try that! Getting my pal back with his computer could be the next issue 😅

Check the fuses related to the windows plus also check fuses in engine bay.

It may be a probem with the comfort control module or Body control module but I think if the imobilser is on it can affect window operation. I remember reading about it when my imobilser got stuck on as my windows wouldnt work either including keys.

According to Ai which I reckon is not that reliable and cant guarantee its correct is as follows ...

Recoding or replacing a comfort control module (CCM/BCM) during an instrument cluster change in Volkswagen/Audi group vehicles requires specialized diagnostic software, typically VCDS (VAG-COM Diagnostic System), to transfer coding, synchronize keys, and adapt the immobilizer. Because the immobilizer data is shared between the cluster and the CCM, failing to match them can prevent the car from starting. 

Its now out of my depth so maybe a VAG specialist or autosparky or someone on here who nows what they are talking about.

Hopefully removing radio will allow you to get further

Alasdair

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