Can someone help ob how to replace the rear breaking pads on my Superb MK3, 2022.

Thanks. Arjol

You need a device such as VCDS to put the brakes into ‘service position’ before you change them.

Edited 13 December, 202513 Dec by Gizmo
stupid autocorrect

52 minutes ago, Gizmo said:

You need a device such as VCDS to put the brakes into ‘service position’ before you change them.

Thanks for the info,

Could you please advise which type and where should I buy it?

VCDS get direct from Rosstech. You can get a 3 or 10 licence version. You can run as many fault codes as you want but the licenses get used when you run adaptions.

https://m.gendan.co.uk/vcds-hex-v2.php?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=11491173747&gbraid=0AAAAAD_wnEnJZEuWeP4mxDjAOHr1G34Uo

And also (someone please confirm) - you push back rather than wind back the piston.

OBD11 or Carista would be cheaper

Also Topdon Carpal looks interesting but I've never personally used that.

Looks good value though.

Edited 14 December, 202514 Dec by aubrey

Carscanner probably the cheapest solution

Guide for Kodiaq, but 99% same:

you can manually return pistons on rear wheels, look some video on ytb, its easy and without costs. separate plastic part with motor ny unscrewing 2 little bolts, and on motor return the piston pin clockwise. fit motor unit back.

activation is also easy.

install the pads, do the same for the second wheel, and then just get in the car, turn on the ignition and tighten the handbrake a couple of times, release it and it will adjust itself, that means you do both wheels. Everything just comes back when you activate the foot brake, it will return the cylinders to the end and you then pump the oil with your foot.

if you think you can mantain car by yourself, get some tool, i have Obdeleven 3. and you will have many many tools to buy.

do you know about automechanic job, just brakig pads and oil and filters?

Edited 14 December, 202514 Dec by imart143

I replaced the rear pads and disks on my 2016 Greenline a few weeks ago.

Replacing the disks as well as the pads is almost as quick and easy as replacing the pads.

I have a Launch 919 tablet (cost just over £300 new from ebay), as we have cars from multiple makes in our family.

When you wind the parking brake in (and then back out again after you've replaced the pads), with a diagnostic tool you'll need to keep the battery above 12 volts. You can do this with a trickle charger or with jump leads from another car.

I didn't fancy using a G clamp to wind the (foot brake) caliper back in due to the plastic housing on the rear of the caliper.

So I bought a basic Hilka Brake Caliper Rewind tool from a local store (for £14).

10 hours ago, Lindsayt said:

When you wind the parking brake in (and then back out again after you've replaced the pads), with a diagnostic tool you'll need to keep the battery above 12 volts. You can do this with a trickle charger or with jump leads from another car.

Not necessary - you can switch the ignition off while the park brake is in service mode and it will remember when you switch back on to exit.

• Once in service mode, push the pistons straight back without turning them.

• Make absolutely sure that the brakes are fully reassembled before exiting service mode.

Hi,

I changed my rear brake pads on both a Superb Mk3 and a Kodiaq MK1 :

I didn't plug any battery charger or so while operating. Just switched contact off.

And as said above, no need to wind the brake piston. Just pushed it straight.

According to our Superb Mk3 Master Guru @ApertureS 👋, winding the piston may cause damage to the piston seal...

On 16/12/2025 at 05:54, Bap33 said:

Hi,

I changed my rear brake pads on both a Superb Mk3 and a Kodiaq MK1 :

I didn't plug any battery charger or so while operating. Just switched contact off.

And as said above, no need to wind the brake piston. Just pushed it straight.

According to our Superb Mk3 Master Guru @ApertureS 👋, winding the piston may cause damage to the piston seal...

So no need for a winding tool to push the rear callipers back?

Simply push by hand?

1 hour ago, JR RS said:

So no need for a winding tool to push the rear callipers back?

Simply push by hand?

Hi @JR RS, Long time since I've been able to give you a tip. Usually, YOU give me tips. 😁

Once spring is removed (and brake fluid tank cap is off), you just need a lever (e.g.: a flat screw driver) to push brake caliper back for 1 or 2mm, to create a small play to be able remove both brake pads. Then a flat piece of wood and a G-clamp allow you to push the brake piston back very easily.

If needed, have a look to the 'How to' I've posted in the Kodiaq forum. 😉

I've seen no difference in the process between Superb Mk3 and Kodiaq Mk1 to replace rear brake pads, including getting in and out of the maintenance mode of the EPB.

Take care!

Edited 16 December, 202516 Dec by Bap33

I did not know you could 'push' them in, I use the winding tool ... hope did not made trouble. All seems to work fine.

1 hour ago, leolito said:

I did not know you could 'push' them in, I use the winding tool ... hope did not made trouble. All seems to work fine.

You were lucky, there is a risk of unscrewing the park brake piston from the actuator thread which needs a complete stripdown of the caliper to put right. This is the same as what happens if you take a brake out of service mode before it is fully reassembled - in this case the motor winds the park brake piston off the end of the actuator.

8 hours ago, leolito said:

I did not know you could 'push' them in, I use the winding tool ... hope did not made trouble. All seems to work fine.

I formerly thought the same thing as you, until I asked some tips to our Master Superb Mk3 Guru @ApertureS 👋 before replacing the rear brake pads on my ex-Superb Mk3. He told me to push straight to avoid making dammage (on the piston seals or on the EPB motors, I can't remember honestly), thus I pushed forward and everything went as planned.

Yeah, I shoulda asked first, I was preparing myself to do that "before" the fact, but then my friend with the service had a "easy" Sat morning with the car lift free ... and he called me up to do the job and it was all in a rush and we just did it.

Will keep in mind for next time ☺️

On 15/12/2025 at 10:24, D402 said:

Not necessary - you can switch the ignition off while the park brake is in service mode and it will remember when you switch back on to exit.

• Once in service mode, push the pistons straight back without turning them.

• Make absolutely sure that the brakes are fully reassembled before exiting service mode.

It was the combination of my battery being on the way out when I did my rear brakes as well as my Launch tablet taking quite a few seconds to wind the parking brake back to service mode. And it taking quite a few seconds to wind the parking brake back to ready to drive mode.

With the Launch tablet not completing either action if the battery voltage fell below 12v.

So that I only needed the battery boost (in my case via jump leads to another car) for the few seconds when I was doing each operation on the tablet.

And, as you quite rightly say, for the 30 to 60 minutes that it takes to unbolt the caliper, remove the old pads, push the foot brake caliper back in (via a caliper retraction tool as I'm too weedy to push them in by hand), fit the new pads, bolt back over the disk, that can all be done with no boost to the car battery.