History is that since the coilovers were done, the front-left top mount has aways creaked on turning; classic top mount sound of juddering movement. I've tried rotating the spring a little in case that's a difference but I need to do try some more just to make sure I haven't forgotten anything.

In the meantime, the front right has developed a creak which is different. It's a heavier creaky rubber feel to it which is triggered on minor movement/weight shift. Going over speedbumps obviously makes it happen, but just the start and end of the motion i.e. when the wheel starts to move/change direction. Just normally pulling away causes a little noise too. Gross movements don't make it sound even worse - if that makes sense. I leant on the front right with the bonnet open and really thought it sounded like it was coming from the top mount, but have I really got 2 duff ones in different ways?!? They're OE parts from Skodaparts which are the Arteon spec ones which seemed to have good feedback compared to Superb ones.

Maybe the coilover setup is harsher on topmounts than B6/Eibach? So perhaps replace with the thinner Superb items?

Alternatives (in case the noise is travelling) are LCAs or ARB bushes.

Is there anything I can do to test or eliminate one item over another?

Cheers!

Spray a liberal amount of silicone on the lower arm bushes and see if the noise goes away.

If it is. The only way I’ve been able to remove the noise for any length of time is to fit the rear lower bush with a solid TTS bush and the front lower with a poly bush.

Edited 6 July6 Jul by UndertheRadar

Alright I’ll give that a go.

It was all silent from the factory - I even wonder if everything was tight from there, and being taken apart has just allowed something to loosen up or some contaminant between surfaces.

Just makes the car feel so cheap at the mo.

8 hours ago, travs said:

History is that since the coilovers were done, the front-left top mount has aways creaked on turning; classic top mount sound of juddering movement. I've tried rotating the spring a little in case that's a difference but I need to do try some more just to make sure I haven't forgotten anything.

In the meantime, the front right has developed a creak which is different. It's a heavier creaky rubber feel to it which is triggered on minor movement/weight shift. Going over speedbumps obviously makes it happen, but just the start and end of the motion i.e. when the wheel starts to move/change direction. Just normally pulling away causes a little noise too. Gross movements don't make it sound even worse - if that makes sense. I leant on the front right with the bonnet open and really thought it sounded like it was coming from the top mount, but have I really got 2 duff ones in different ways?!? They're OE parts from Skodaparts which are the Arteon spec ones which seemed to have good feedback compared to Superb ones.

Maybe the coilover setup is harsher on topmounts than B6/Eibach? So perhaps replace with the thinner Superb items?

Alternatives (in case the noise is travelling) are LCAs or ARB bushes.

Is there anything I can do to test or eliminate one item over another?

Cheers!

Sounds like the typical issue that plagues Superbs. Mine was doing exactly what you described. I have replaced pretty much whole suspension 2 years ago - shocks, bottom arms with polybushes, drop links, strut mounts and has been ok since. When i worked at Skoda there was a technical bulletin about it and Skoda gave solution which was basically to grease everything but eventually the issue would return.

Scheiße

Right I’ll start with the lower arms and get lubing.

But I’ll look at replacing the bits I haven’t done so yet. Lower arms (Superpro etc) are fairly straightforward but considering dropping the subframe for the front arb opens a massive can of ‘whole you’re there’ worms seeing as I’m still trying to mull over a downpipe which needs the subframe dropping….

Bit of planning needed I think. In the meantime, KY it is

Add a subframe alignment kit while you’re planning as well then. Makes life a little bit simpler for setting the alignment up after refitting the subframe.

Some bars come as a kit, so you get front and rear for a bit of a discount. If you go this route, add a quality set of adjustable rear drop links, as otherwise you’ll end up with the plastic factory rear links snapping.

19 hours ago, travs said:

Scheiße

Right I’ll start with the lower arms and get lubing.

But I’ll look at replacing the bits I haven’t done so yet. Lower arms (Superpro etc) are fairly straightforward but considering dropping the subframe for the front arb opens a massive can of ‘whole you’re there’ worms seeing as I’m still trying to mull over a downpipe which needs the subframe dropping….

Bit of planning needed I think. In the meantime, KY it is

It does open a massive can of worms but it's better to do it all rather then coming back to it multiple times.As they say, pay once cry once 😁 my mechanic has managed to fit my BCS Powervalve downpipe without dropping the sub frame

19 hours ago, travs said:

Right I’ll start with the lower arms and get lubing.

But I’ll look at replacing the bits I haven’t done so yet. Lower arms (Superpro etc) are fairly straightforward but considering dropping the subframe for the front arb opens a massive can of ‘whole you’re there’ worms seeing as I’m still trying to mull over a downpipe which needs the subframe dropping….

Bit of planning needed I think. In the meantime, KY it is

Edited 7 July7 Jul by MarioVrs

17 hours ago, UndertheRadar said:

Add a subframe alignment kit while you’re planning as well then. Makes life a little bit simpler for setting the alignment up after refitting the subframe.

Some bars come as a kit, so you get front and rear for a bit of a discount. If you go this route, add a quality set of adjustable rear drop links, as otherwise you’ll end up with the plastic factory rear links snapping.

Cheers - Got the rear arb already but kept reading mixed messages about the OE droplinks being both cheese and fine. So will chuck those on the list too.

4 hours ago, MarioVrs said:

my mechanic has managed to fit my BCS Powervalve downpipe without dropping the sub frame

Interesting. Wonder if yours is simpler being slightly different design on the pre-GPF. I was looking at this; bit of a chavvy name but I'm not fussed. And annoyingly Racingline do a Stage 3 for the Gen3 engine but not the Gen4 that I can see yet 😬

Anyway,

Short-term: Spray lower arms with grease to see if that's the culprit

Longer-term: New rear drop links, front drop links, new lower arms, potentially new top mounts/bearings, subframe mounting kit, might as well do front arb.

If that doesn't do it...

14 hours ago, travs said:

Interesting. Wonder if yours is simpler being slightly different design on the pre-GPF. I was looking at this; bit of a chavvy name but I'm not fussed. And annoyingly Racingline do a Stage 3 for the Gen3 engine but not the Gen4 that I can see yet 😬

Anyway,

Short-term: Spray lower arms with grease to see if that's the culprit

Longer-term: New rear drop links, front drop links, new lower arms, potentially new top mounts/bearings, subframe mounting kit, might as well do front arb.

If that doesn't do it...

Not sure but generally book time for fitting downpipe, standard or aftermarket is 3-4 hours . Trackslag is getting some good reputation, as long as it works for you nobody cares about name.

Yes do as much as you can afford while at it. I know it's big chunk of money in one go but definitely worth it

I've changed my subframe bolts a few times as if you removed it otherwise it will creak aswell however Ive got a Aluminium one from Golf R.

The quality of the Trackslag is 2nd to none and I highly recommend it.

I don't see it as an LHD option with cat 😢

8 hours ago, leolito said:

I don't see it as an LHD option with cat 😢

The downpipe? I don’t think there’s a difference between LHD and RHD

Will see when the time comes ...

For now I wait to get back home, test the new RL coils, then go on holidays, then hopefully find time to go see the local RL representative and start to make plans ... 😄

On 11/07/2026 at 08:05, travs said:

The downpipe? I don’t think there’s a difference between LHD and RHD

I was going to have first downpipe fitted last year in Austria and the bloke couldn't fit it cos he said that they are different for LHD cars. He showed me it and the one he got was straight not bend at the turbo end if that makes sense....

I’m guessing something infrastructure to get around. Steering rack different or something like that?

@leolito at least you know there’s a bloke in Austria that can sort you out! 🎉🎉

10 minutes ago, travs said:

I’m guessing something infrastructure to get around. Steering rack different or something like that?

@leolito at least you know there’s a bloke in Austria that can sort you out! 🎉🎉

Austria? Who?

Someone @MarioVrs mentioned…

1 hour ago, travs said:

I’m guessing something infrastructure to get around. Steering rack different or something like that?

@leolito at least you know there’s a bloke in Austria that can sort you out! 🎉🎉

Yeah i was only there for two weeks and found that company that tune cars so I've asked him to order downpipe and tune it but when the part arrived it was straight and wouldn't fit my car. Probably like you say, steering rack or something in the way...

Can I get some recommendations for LCAs and preferably part numbers? No-one seems to be able to confirm that they fit the Superb 3V AWD.

I thought this TRC1070 was the right one, but apparently not.

According to AwesomeGTI, this TRC1071 is correct, but not according to the Superpro website.

The single worst aspect of ownership of these cars is trying to work out which supplier knows their arse from their elbow when it comes to supplying or selling the parts that they make.

Edited 13 July13 Jul by travs

According to google AI, they're the same except for the TRC1071 gives you a little more caster 🤷‍♂️

I've installed Alloy LCA's, Right BCA7869 Borg & Beck Track Control if thats helps

So far everything I’ve tried eventually makes noise again.

Best at this point is OEM arm with TTS solid lower rear bush and poly front lower.

Still get a small amount of noise when it’s very warm and dry, like at the minute, and only if it’s been sitting a few days. Disappears after about 10min of driving.

Nothing like the old creaking though.

OK - so on the list is:

1. Superpro LCAs - standard replacements with poly bushes. @Awesam would be good to get alu items but I want to move to poly bushes and any combination of poly and alu ends up being £500 upwards and don't come with bottom ball joints so more cost

2. Superpro Front anti-roll bar

3. Superpro Front and rear drop links (may as well upgrade the rears while I'm looking at bits to swap out)

If that doesn't kill the creak as well as tighten up the front end a little, then it must be top mounts by the that point and I'll aim for those.

Now downpipes...