Fault codes 17705 & 17545

[SimonT]

... I would expect no leak from the pipe, mine doesnt and I have no fault/error codes on my ecu that relate to this. I have now covered 40k miles and have not seen these codes...

Kiss of death, Manny

[mannyo]

Yep, so it would seem.

[dsmithmobile]

I Dont suppose anyone has any other ideas for curing the 17705 code because ive had this code since december and its been back and forth to the dealers to be checked over and in this time its had the diverter valve,N75 valve,MAF and turbo pipes replaced but it still surges under acceleration and its becoming very frustrating,any advice would be appriciated

[Drill]

What engine codes are we talking about here?? I ask, cause my A3 has an ARX 1.8T and for a while now I've suspected a boost leak and haven't been able to find one :smashfrea But haven't checked this hose. I DO have the intermittent 17705 code (and a 16396 whatever THAT is) and when cold, the engine DOES surge a bit, but is fine when warm. I've also noticed an increase in fuel consumption (COULD just be due to more AC usage) and power has seemed a bit down :confused: I've an appointment on Friday for a Haldex service and to have my gearbox oil changed, so will ask if there are any new service bulletins, but do y'all think #56 would apply to me??

Thx :cheers:

[PUGSYTHEBEAR]

I've said this in another thread somewhere but sometimes getting the MAF cleaned, even on new ones help no end. They get a buildup of oil from the filters, especially if you are using oiled foam filters, which then misreports the air flow and when the air flow is measured after the intercooler it registers a pressure (airflow) difference.

Some new MAF's come with a protective film on the coils which cause misreading. You need to use a degreasant which leaves no residue, isopropyl alchohol should do the trick as will MEK (Butanone). Just flush it, dont prod or poke.

I've had everything changed on my car to try and get rid of the 17705 code and nothing worked until I cleaned the MAF 2000 miles ago and it hasn't appeared since, check it weekly when I do tyres, oil etc.

The #56 I think applies to Skoda Octavia 4x4's but could also be the same problem with your car. Have the part numbers on the pipe checked, if it ends with an A, get it changed, badly designed and sealed.

Hope this has been of some use to you all.

[Drill]

Well it helps me out, thanks dude I'm taking this info in with me on Saturday just to be safe :smashfrea

:cheers:

[GAFF]

I've said this in another thread somewhere but sometimes getting the MAF cleaned' date=' even on new ones help no end. They get a buildup of oil from the filters, especially if you are using oiled foam filters, which then misreports the air flow and when the air flow is measured after the intercooler it registers a pressure (airflow) difference.

Some new MAF's come with a protective film on the coils which cause misreading. You need to use a degreasant which leaves no residue, isopropyl alchohol should do the trick as will MEK (Butanone). Just flush it, dont prod or poke.

I've had everything changed on my car to try and get rid of the 17705 code and nothing worked until I cleaned the MAF 2000 miles ago and it hasn't appeared since, check it weekly when I do tyres, oil etc.

The #56 I think applies to Skoda Octavia 4x4's but could also be the same problem with your car. Have the part numbers on the pipe checked, if it ends with an A, get it changed, badly designed and sealed.

Hope this has been of some use to you all.[/quote']

Does IPA not leave a white residue ? We use 10% in work and I was always told not to use it on glass encoders because of this.

PUGSYTHEBEAR,

Any chance of doing an idiots guide to cleaning the MAF the next time you do it with maybe a few pictures. I'd like to clean both the MAF and Throttle Body but I'm kinda afraid of damaging them.

I had the part that TaviaRS mention replaced due to the DTC17705 fault code but haven't had a chance to check the fault codes since.

[PUGSYTHEBEAR]

I found this link on this site off Javaman:

http://www.roadsleeper.com/gti/

Just click on the word MAF on the left hand side.

The hardest bit is finding a cleaner that leaves no residue whatsoever.

The easier way is:

Unplug the electrical connector.

Remove the stupid clip that holds the trunking onto the MAF with a pair of pliers and dispose of. Retain if you wish but it's easier to replace with a jubilee clip.

Unscrew the two screws that retain the MAF to the air cleaner box and remove the MAF from the car. There is no need to remove the air cleaner box cover as there is plenty of room.

There is a grill on both ends to stop you putting fingers and so on in and damaging the delicate coils inside, so you can either bath and shake the MAF in the cleaning agent or (if like me you "borrow" the cleaner from work) just flush the MAF through in the direction of air flow.

Then refitting is the opposite of removal but replace the old clip with a jubilee clip. If you're anything like me you'd rather take the car apart for no reason rather than watch Eastenders.

[DGW]

The #56 I think applies to Skoda Octavia 4x4's but could also be the same problem with your car.

It should apply to all the current 1.8T engines. Could one of our members with access to the bulletin please confirm that?

[GAFF]

I found this link on this site off Javaman:

http://www.roadsleeper.com/gti/

Just click on the word MAF on the left hand side.

The hardest bit is finding a cleaner that leaves no residue whatsoever.

The easier way is:

Unplug the electrical connector.

Remove the stupid clip that holds the trunking onto the MAF with a pair of pliers and dispose of. Retain if you wish but it's easier to replace with a jubilee clip.

Unscrew the two screws that retain the MAF to the air cleaner box and remove the MAF from the car. There is no need to remove the air cleaner box cover as there is plenty of room.

There is a grill on both ends to stop you putting fingers and so on in and damaging the delicate coils inside' date=' so you can either bath and shake the MAF in the cleaning agent or (if like me you "borrow" the cleaner from work) just flush the MAF through in the direction of air flow.

Then refitting is the opposite of removal but replace the old clip with a jubilee clip. If you're anything like me you'd rather take the car apart for no reason rather than watch Eastenders. [/quote']

I went to have a look at the MAF today, I unscrewed the 2 screws connecting it to the airbox but couldn't see much due to the grills you mentioned, so I put it back together.

I then decided to have a look at the throttle body to see what kind of shape it was in. I didn't try cleaning it, I just took a few photos, does it look okay or should I clean it ? I had a picture of the other side of the throttle body which did have some stuff on it but I didn't take that picture with me.

[GAFF]

Heres the other picture, does this need cleaning?

[PUGSYTHEBEAR]

At the end of the day, what harm would it do if you cleaned it? Couldn't make it any worse. I haven't had the throttle body off on my car yet so I cant see if you can manually move the butterfly to clean it. So long as you remember to do a throttlebody alignment afterwards there shouldn't be a problem.

[sman]

resurected!

Just wondered if you'd got to the bottom of this?

I too was at the dealer 4 times with 17705 and had the tavia pipe replacement thing etc but the problem persisted. For what its worth my mechanic has said that there are only two things left to try:

1 remove & clean throttle housing

2 replace housing altogether

I've had the first done and it does seem better...not perfect, but better. theres less surging and it pulls cleaner. I'm still not sure its 100% sorted so might get the housing replaced under warranty.

[DGW]

Moved from the Archive to the Octavia forum since it is of ongoing interest.

[perky]

my symptons are exactly as you say barely ticking over revs climbing and dropping have code 17705 and management light came on.has this pipe cured the problem.cheers perky:mad:

[perky]

hi just read your post,i know i'm a bit slow,and have the exact same problem you describe.idling very lumpy nearly cutting out,fault code 17705.dealership have said maybe needs new throttle body(********)have you sorted yours out?if so how?cheers perky.

[GAFF]

hi just read your post,i know i'm a bit slow,and have the exact same problem you describe.idling very lumpy nearly cutting out,fault code 17705.dealership have said maybe needs new throttle body(********)have you sorted yours out?if so how?cheers perky.

The cleaning of the throttle body seemed to sort the lumpyness. The pipe was changed to the intercooler..I don't have the car anymore to verify if it sorted the code. There was a bulletin on it.

[Wayne Kerr]

Just can't let this thread die.

Is there a definative cure for the dreaded 17705 ????? :confused:

[888]

yep, new car!!!!!

[Goochie]

Just can't let this thread die.

Is there a definative cure for the dreaded 17705 ????? :confused:

Mine went away when I changed "the pipe" and has never come back

[Wayne Kerr]

yep, new car!!!!!

If your that bored ,,,,, just go to bed!

[Wayne Kerr]

Mine went away when I changed "the pipe" and has never come back

OK ,,,,, what "pipe" ?????

[Goochie]

OK ,,,,, what "pipe" ?????

where have you been ?

Find the thread titled "where does this pipe go?"

[Wayne Kerr]

Found it! Blimey, it's been a while since that was posted!

Looked back at my invoices for Skoda parts and 06A145790C (£34.00) is there.

So ,,,,, this part has been changed and the fault still comes back.

Where to now ?????????? :confused:

[Goochie]

I'd look at changing every rubber hose and seal in the IC pipe run.