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The old hesitation after remap problem

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ooooh you first then and we will follow.

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  • Have a look on the US MKV forum, understand you have a MKI Octy but you may be interested to know that the TFSI engine has similar issues..........they also link to MKIV forums so will be worth a look

  • Ace keep us updated mate. I've got a stratmosphere DV on mine at the mo so might be keep to swap it for another DV if it does the trick.

  • Think F is the latest one, the J is similar to the ECS one causes boost spikes,

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these were on my list of future mods anyway, this might just speed up the process lol Anyone on here running uprated hose with/without hesitation???

I have this same problem in second and third gear when I plant my foot to the floor. My car isn't remapped but I do have a forge t.i.p from awesome and this hasn't cured the problem. Hope this helps

Bill,

Have you thought about contacting jabba about the hesitation. Maybe they can shed some light on the problem. I presume this started after the remap so maybe they would have a look for you?

Mart

My car first started hesitating on my way home after having a jabba custom remap.

TBH the reason why I have'nt contacted jabba (yet), is I dont want them to think I'm being ungrateful or complaining (if that makes sense).

Because apart from the hesitation in top gear, my car is absolutly fantastic now, which is down to the excellent tuning advice and high standard of workmanship I received from Jabba (mixed with a few of my own ideas).

It has'nt come cheap, but the transformation my car has undergone over the past few months is unbelievable and worth every penny.

Anyway, for the moment I'm confidant that with the help of people on here, we should be able to solve this problem........or at least eliminate quite a few things, lol

Today I did the "cage mod" on my vRS to see if it helps get rid of the hesitation.

Typical of me though.... I did'nt just do the MAF, I got a lorry load of dielectric grease and did every connector on the engine :rofl:

I did the same to the wifes KA and what a differance its made, runs much smoother, also seems to have slightly improved acceleration and quitened the engine a bit.

Might get the vRS out for a play at the weekend (if the weathers fine), I'll let you Know how it goes.

  • Author
I have this same problem in second and third gear when I plant my foot to the floor. My car isn't remapped but I do have a forge t.i.p from awesome and this hasn't cured the problem. Hope this helps

My problem is when the turbo is at most strain- in fouth and fifth gear.

I used to get a hesitation before my remap in second and third but this was due to a dirty throttle body.Once cleaned it was great again.

Could this be your problem Chris?

Im the same as you mart, when i plant it and put the turbo under most pressure i get, found when i smoothly feed the power through its not nearly as bad.Got my new N75 today(not yet fitted it) and still considering the turbo hoses. My mate is suffering similar issues on his remapped ibiza cupra aswell.

My car is is now fixed :thumbup: not a trace of hesitation at all, just silky smooth power in every gear :D

We did about 150 miles today in the Octy vRS, and no matter what I did to provoke it.... I could not get it to hesitate. In fact in over 4 years of ownership it has never performed so well.

The cure for my car has come from Briskoda :thumbup: and best of all only cost me about £10 and an hour of my time.

I had read on here about the "cage mod", and ordered 25g of silicone dielectric compound (chemplex 825) from Cool CPU Store on Ebay. And treated all of the following with dielectric grease:

MAF, N75, N249, thottle position sensor, SMIC boost pressure sensor, temp sensor, injectors and coil packs.

Before I applied the grease I use an electrical cleaning solvent to clean all the plugs and sockets (even though they looked spot on - to my eyes)

I'd never have thought that this "cage mod +" would have cured the hestitation problem, as the sensor and valve connectors did'nt appear to be causing any problems prior to having the custom remap.

However, I can only assume that "post remap" the engine electronics become more susceptable to any faults or weaknesses present in the connectors.

Although this has fixed my car I'm not sure it will be the answere for everyone !!!

PS. Thank you to all who have contributed to this thread :thumbup:

  • Author

Oh man iam dead jealous now.Where is that search button i wanna go.

MAF, N75, N249, thottle position sensor, SMIC boost pressure sensor, temp sensor, injectors and coil packs.

Before I applied the grease I use an electrical cleaning solvent to clean all the plugs and sockets (even though they looked spot on - to my eyes)

Nice one, glad you got yours sorted! :thumbup:

I've cage modded my MAF and N75 so far...

Not sure where the M249 / TPS, SMIC boost pressure sensor, temp sensor are though.

Or how you'd use this on the injectors and coil packs.

Infact I know very little about the coil packs.

Might give this a go myself, can't hurt....

  • Author

Is silicon grease different to dielectric silicon grease though?

Is silicon grease different to dielectric silicon grease though?

Yes Afaik

I know dielectric is used when freezer cooling cpu's in a pc to protect against condenstation (its smeared over circuit boards).

Nice one, glad you got yours sorted! :thumbup:

I've cage modded my MAF and N75 so far...

Not sure where the M249 / TPS, SMIC boost pressure sensor, temp sensor are though.

Or how you'd use this on the injectors and coil packs.

Infact I know very little about the coil packs.

Might give this a go myself, can't hurt....

Ethos

N249 valve is under the inlet manifold.

TPS is on the "inlet end" of the inlet manifold (its at the back of the manifold - at the bottom of a black plastic cover).

SMIC boost pressure sensor can be seen and accessed from behind the O/S head light (no need to remove the headlight !).

Temp sensor is at N/S of the cyl head (not far from N75 and DV)

The injectors and coil packs also use same connectors as above.... (just treat the connectors - no need to remove injectors or coil packs)

Hope this helps.......I could take some pictures with my phone if you want :thumbup:

Thanks bud, that's great.

I think I could probably find them all, but pics would be great if you get the time.

Helps everyone then too!! :thumbup:

Is silicon grease different to dielectric silicon grease though?

Mart

I went off advice from my step father, and used the grease he recommended..... he's in in 70's (and very poorly at the moment) but he knows his stuff when it comes to electronics.

He told me that silicone dielectric compound is used to safegaurd against problems in many applications were electrical conductivity may become effected by temperature variations (heat cycles).

Important he did warn however, that it is absolutely vital that connectors must be clean before dielectric grease is applied.

I used an electrical solvent spray can to clean the connectors and left them to dry before applying the grease. (I removed the rubber seal in each plug before spraying with solvent to prevent the seal reacting to the solvent).

Today I did the "cage mod" on my vRS to see if it helps get rid of the hesitation.

What is the "cage mod"? I've done a search and not much comes up apart from this thread!

Today I did the "cage mod" on my vRS to see if it helps get rid of the hesitation.

What is the "cage mod"? I've done a search and not much comes up apart from this thread!

You will find the original thread in the "maintenance and performance" section ;)

  • Author

Well i took me can of contact cleaner and my silicone grease out tonight and gave all connectors on Bill check list a good spray with contact cleaner followed by a good grease up with silicone grease.

Sad to say there is no difference at all :(. Initial surge in forth and fifth followed by hesitations until settling down again.

Glad to hear it worked for you Bill but for me its back to the drawing board:(

Martziniuk.....it could be to do with the driver Request mapping and the Fuel cycle timing.

  • Author

Huh... im lost now.

What the hell is "driver Request mapping and the Fuel cycle timing", or are you just taking the wee wee.;)

Little update from me on this, replaced my N75 valve but to no avail sadly but have contacted the tuner who done the map to see what other possible solution and causes there may be.....will post anything of worth.

Huh... im lost now.

What the hell is "driver Request mapping and the Fuel cycle timing", or are you just taking the wee wee.;)

Nah, he isn't! I remember reading about it on another thread, something to do with the ECU learning your driving or something. You tell it what you want, but then it actually does what it can instead.

  • Author
Nah, he isn't! I remember reading about it on another thread, something to do with the ECU learning your driving or something. You tell it what you want, but then it actually does what it can instead.

Sounds a bit complex to me. I really would not know where to start but if anyone does let me know ;)

The best i can give on Driver request mapping is that when u put ur boot down u request 1 bar boost(lets say) and the car see this and try to match it Asap and it can take a lill bit to do it it has to learn the new settings.

And fuel cycle timing prob is if u let of and its a sharp snap off and u feel and jolt from the car its closing off the air/fuel to fast and it needs to be slowed down a little to give a Smoothe ride. it normaly goes hand in hand with ur prob a very very good mapper will know this, i found this the hard way Btw.

its the best i can give for a ans....i understand it myself but can explane if ya get me!

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